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View Full Version : TRP Spyke cable disc brakes for MTB


Red Tornado
04-03-2019, 09:25 AM
Thinking about trying these out on a bike I'm going through. Seems like a good middle ground for someone who wants to avoid hydraulic, but likes the idea of both pads moving. Anyone here ever used them?

Jaybee
04-03-2019, 09:41 AM
I've only got one test ride on Spykes, and they were fine. I'd assume like any cable disc, they are best with high quality compressionless housing.

Just curious, why not hydraulic? For flat bar applications, useful hydraulic brakes (like, better than any cable brake) can be had for as little as $30-$50/wheel.

Gummee
04-03-2019, 09:44 AM
A better middle ground are cable actuated hydros if you really don't want full hydro brakes.

Juin Tech and Yokozuna are really nice brakes in that category.

...but as was just pointed out: Shimano hydros are dirt simple to install and maintain and work really really well.

M

edited to add: make sure you use compressionless housing. At the minimum, use the Shimano M-sys housing. M-sys isn't truly compressionless, but it's better than 'regular' brake housing.

bambam
04-03-2019, 09:57 AM
I have "spyres" on my cross bikes and like them.

I ride more road than mtnbike but have avid hydros on my main mtn bike and bb5's(?) on another mtn bike.

I like the spyres a lot better than the BB5 and don't notice much difference with the hydro's.

I have ridden my cross bike on some trails as well and not had any "boy ,I wish I had hydraulics" thoughts.

Easy set up. I get the cable pull right, apply the brake and tighten the mounting bolts. Never really noticed any rub.

(Just head about spyke's in the following response, Saw spyke read spyre)

Ride Safe,
BamBam

David Tollefson
04-03-2019, 10:19 AM
Haven't used the Spyke, but I've got Spyres on three bikes, including a drop bar SS monster-cross (my only MTB) paired to Cane Creek levers. I imagine the function of the Spyke with an appropriate long-pull lever would be on par with the Spyre, and the performance compared to BB5s and BB7s is head-and-shoulders above. My monster-crosser has the Spyres paired to Cane Creek long-pull levers, so the actuation is akin to a nicely set-up road caliper (where the pads engage relative to the lever position). YMMV.

Compressionless housing is a must.

thermalattorney
04-03-2019, 11:06 AM
Similar experience to David here. With compressionless housing they're totally solid brakes and a step above the BB7.

I know you said you wanted to avoid hydraulics, but even Shimano's basic $35 BR-M396 are a clear step above the Spyre/Spyke.

Red Tornado
04-03-2019, 12:56 PM
I did give hydraulics some thought, but don't have them on any other MTB's (Tektro or BB7 cable discs are what I have/do use). Seems like something new to have to get used to that I don't want to mess with.

Are hydraulics difficult to bleed? How often do they need bled? Is it a pain to shorten hose if the stock length is too long? Anyone ever experienced leaking due to crashes or other causes? These are just some of the things I would prefer to not have to deal with. Not ruling hydros out completely, just looking to see if I can find something mechanical first. I do want to get away from having only one pad moving. I have seen the lower end Shimano stuff and looks like they overall have good customer ratings and some attractive prices; some less than the Spykes.

Jaybee
04-03-2019, 01:31 PM
Shimano hydraulics are dead-easy to bleed with a $20 kit. If you ever have to bleed them. Even if the stock hoses are too long, there is a good chance you can cut and reattach without any meaningful loss of fluid. I think I've done one touch-up bleed that was more preference than necessity over the past 5 years of heavy MTB use across 5-6 bikes - this is Shimano XT's, SLX's, XTRs of various vintages, and a pair of SRAM Guide RSCs that might actually be my favorites. I also had a pair of 12 year old Hayes 9's on a townie finally bite the dust after many thousands of miles of service. They probably could have been fixed, but I just replaced them with the above-mentioned M-396s.

If you are sticking with cable, I do like the dual piston motion of the Spyke over the "deflect the rotor into the other static pad" action of almost every other cable disc caliper.