SRAM Newbie...

[Lewis Moon]

So...I finally got the Ridley I bought from a less than scrupulous seller over a month and a half ago. It's set up with a SRAM 10 drivetrain. I'm a campy guy...any weird things I need to know about setup? This is going to be my commuter/mountain/grocery/pit bike.

[kramnnim]

You just need to know how to remove it, so you can install Campy. :banana:

[icepick_trotsky]

You'll have a hell of a time trying how to figure out the cable routing inside the shifter for the first time. The shifter cable has to bend at a really weird angle.

[nooneline]

SRAM needs a bigger loop to the RD than most other groupsets.

[shoota]

Sram RDs are super sensitive to cable tension. I always install inline barrel adjusters to make getting it right much easier.

[Tickdoc]

chain catcher! I needed it with my red 10 regardless of setup.

[benb]

There are only noobs with respect to SRAM as we all switch off quickly.

Just kidding.

Actually SRAM is less sensitive to cable tension depending on which group you're talking about. The SRAM 1:1 actuation MTB stuff was great for that reason.

I always want a cable adjuster for the front derailleur on any setup. Had a fight with the mechanic who built my current Shimano equipped bike for that reason. But he failed to prove to me he could dial in the front derailleur correctly (perfectly) without the adjuster so he ate crow and put it on. (I knew I couldn't get it perfect without it either.)

[shoota]

Why do they always throw such a fit about that?!?

[benb]

Why do they always throw such a fit about that?!?

You've had that experience as well?

I am fairly certain the guy I had this experience with is no longer a mechanic.

He said you didn't need the barrel adjuster when you knew what you were doing, I walked over and got the bike to drop the chain in his workstand in about 5 seconds, shop owner made him fix it. (I was taking delivery of about a $5k build)

He also put the wrong chain catcher on the frame.. it took me a while to catch that (a month?) A really good mechanic would have noticed that, it was a frame that ships stock with a 50/34 setup since the complete bikes all ship with a 50/34 and I had the build specced for 53/39.

[fried bake]

Install a 22 FD with a chain catcher for better front shifts.


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[shoota]

You've had that experience as well?

I am fairly certain the guy I had this experience with is no longer a mechanic.

He said you didn't need the barrel adjuster when you knew what you were doing, I walked over and got the bike to drop the chain in his workstand in about 5 seconds, shop owner made him fix it. (I was taking delivery of about a $5k build)

He also put the wrong chain catcher on the frame.. it took me a while to catch that (a month?) A really good mechanic would have noticed that, it was a frame that ships stock with a 50/34 setup since the complete bikes all ship with a 50/34 and I had the build specced for 53/39.

Yeah man, I was in the same boat. I politely asked the guy to install a barrel adjuster on both cables and he just looked at me without saying anything. He made it really clear that he didn't appreciate the request. This is also the same shop that tried to install my power meter crank arm that didn't fit right with blue loctite. I just took the bike off the stand and said "never mind." I fixed both issues myself at home.

[oldpotatoe]

So...I finally got the Ridley I bought from a less than scrupulous seller over a month and a half ago. It's set up with a SRAM 10 drivetrain. I'm a campy guy...any weird things I need to know about setup? This is going to be my commuter/mountain/grocery/pit bike.

:)teehee:)

I won't do it..promise..:no:

OK..use 1.1mm der inner wires and 5mm housing. metal(brass) ferrules. Make sure the housing is long enough. I'd swap the front der for a 6700 or older, 10s one..When the cogset/chain wears out, get shimano ones...;)

[Lewis Moon]

:)teehee:)

I won't do it..promise..:no:

OK..use 1.1mm der inner wires and 5mm housing. metal(brass) ferrules. Make sure the housing is long enough. I'd swap the front der for a 6700 or older, 10s one..When the cogset/chain wears out, get shimano ones...;)

Yeah, the front der seems a bit clunky and cheesy. The shift train is Rival. The rear der seems to shift well enough, although I'm getting a bit of "rumble" under pedal load. Don't seem to be able to adjust it out. May be the chain/drivetrain combo; I swapped in an old KMC I had lying around because the chain that came with it looked to be made by Sturmey Archer.
I'm trying to keep this bike as cheap as practical. What I originally wanted was an old frame that I could single speed, but this popped up with a powertap hub and an extra set of tubular wheels and Fizik saddle (both of which were never sent) so as I explained in another post, the deal was too sweet to pass up. Also as I explained, the 4$$#0L3 burned me and I had to threaten legal action to get it.
I rode the bike in anger for the first time this morning and it's pretty much like the other X-Fires I've owned, competent handling and stiff. The SRAM shifters were a lot easier to get used to than Shimanos. They did seem kind of stiff and clicky when shifting to lower gears out back. Can these be lubed?

[simonov]

The clunkyness you can't seem to dial out is likely due to the chain or maybe other parts being worn. That's not a characteristic of SRAM drivetrains.

The shifters can be "lubed" pretty easily by removing the hoods and the access panel on the inside of the shifter. Add a light coating of white lithium grease with an acid brush to get things moving nicely again. Normally you wouldn't need to do this for a very long time, but you never know what the previous owner did for maintenance. If he shot them full of spray on lube to loosen things up it was probably a temporary fix that actually made things worse. Or they could just be dirty. Same goes for the cables...you never know how gummed up they are if they're used.

In my experience, installing a new cable is no harder or weirder than any other brand...just different. You'll want to be in the first position (smallest ring) and when you apply a little pressure to the shift lever you can see where the cable inserts through the little "window" in the shifter body.

I've also found that SRAM is actually more forgiving to rear derailleur cable tension than the other groups.

I definitely second the tip for a longer than shimano/campy RD cable housing loop. You don't need to go overboard, but you want to make sure the housing enters the barrel adjuster straight on.

I also second the tip to get a new FD if your bike has a 10speed Rival FD. The Yaw FD that started with Red 10speed (last generation) or anything 11 speed is a huge improvement. You can also get them very cheap.

[Lewis Moon]

The clunkyness you can't seem to dial out is likely due to the chain or maybe other parts being worn. That's not a characteristic of SRAM drivetrains.

The shifters can be "lubed" pretty easily by removing the hoods and the access panel on the inside of the shifter. Add a light coating of white lithium grease with an acid brush to get things moving nicely again. Normally you wouldn't need to do this for a very long time, but you never know what the previous owner did for maintenance. If he shot them full of spray on lube to loosen things up it was probably a temporary fix that actually made things worse. Or they could just be dirty. Same goes for the cables...you never know how gummed up they are if they're used.

In my experience, installing a new cable is no harder or weirder than any other brand...just different. You'll want to be in the first position (smallest ring) and when you apply a little pressure to the shift lever you can see where the cable inserts through the little "window" in the shifter body.

I've also found that SRAM is actually more forgiving to rear derailleur cable tension than the other groups.

I definitely second the tip for a longer than shimano/campy RD cable housing loop. You don't need to go overboard, but you want to make sure the housing enters the barrel adjuster straight on.

I also second the tip to get a new FD if your bike has a 10speed Rival FD. The Yaw FD that started with Red 10speed (last generation) or anything 11 speed is a huge improvement. You can also get them very cheap.

Cheepnis (gratuitous Zappa reference) is what I was going for on this bike so the SRAM gear will remain. I will look for another front der and I've seen that the Red fronts can be had for small change.
The bike was a CX pit bike so it saw a lot of pressure washer time. Everything is in relatively good shape but probably a bit dry. The chainwheels don't look "hooked" and the cassette is new so the rumbling is probably the chain. Will change it ASAP.
As for routing the der cables...what's the beef? It took me 3.2 seconds, first try without instructions. I find changing cables to actually be easier than on Campy 11 because it's done from the side rather than the bottom.

[simonov]

Cheepnis (gratuitous Zappa reference) is what I was going for on this bike so the SRAM gear will remain. I will look for another front der and I've seen that the Red fronts can be had for small change.
The bike was a CX pit bike so it saw a lot of pressure washer time. Everything is in relatively good shape but probably a bit dry. The chainwheels don't look "hooked" and the cassette is new so the rumbling is probably the chain. Will change it ASAP.
As for routing the der cables...what's the beef? It took me 3.2 seconds, first try without instructions. I find changing cables to actually be easier than on Campy 11 because it's done from the side rather than the bottom.

Exactly. No beef...those cables go in easily.

Pressure washer could definitely push out some grease from the shifters. A little dab of white lithium should fix them up. Other than that, you should be good. You may even like it. I know I do.

[Lewis Moon]

Exactly. No beef...those cables go in easily.

Pressure washer could definitely push out some grease from the shifters. A little dab of white lithium should fix them up. Other than that, you should be good. You may even like it. I know I do.

As I said, the shifting was an order of magnitude easier to get used to than Shimano. I only reached for the thumb button a few times.

[simonov]

As I said, the shifting was an order of magnitude easier to get used to than Shimano. I only reached for the thumb button a few times.

I have most of the different groups in service and Shimano always messes with me. I can move between the others without much issue, but what always cracks me up is that I can go months without riding my Campy bike, ride it one time before switching back to something else, and then find myself reaching for the thumb shifter with my pinky from the bar tops for another week.