View Full Version : Shimano 9100 front derailleur install issue
Front derailleur cable will not stay in the front derailleur cable guide. Any suggestions?
Note yellow inner sleeve for highlighting purposes only.
Pegoready
03-05-2019, 05:15 PM
Isn't that "guide" just a housing stop for if you're running full housing to the FD? I didn't think exposed wire needed to go through it.
Gummee
03-05-2019, 05:43 PM
Isn't that "guide" just a housing stop for if you're running full housing to the FD? I didn't think exposed wire needed to go through it.
My R8000 fronts both run thru there, so dunno. It IS just a stop for a full-length housing
These things are MUCH easier to set up than the long arm derailleurs!
M
Shimano instructions indicate cable should go through the guide. It does on my Trek with R8000 front derailleur. Have not found anything online regarding this issue.
This is on my wife's bike. I had the 6800 front derailleur working after some fiddling......just didn't like the cable adjuster positioning on the small bike.
Never had a problem with front derailleurs before.
Gummee
03-05-2019, 06:40 PM
Shimano instructions indicate cable should go through the guide. It does on my Trek with R8000 front derailleur. Have not found anything online regarding this issue.
This is on my wife's bike. I had the 6800 front derailleur working after some fiddling......just didn't like the cable adjuster positioning on the small bike.
Never had a problem with front derailleurs before.Welcome to the 21st century!
M
rePhil
03-05-2019, 06:45 PM
What is the yellow colored part, a liner?
weaponsgrade
03-05-2019, 06:56 PM
One time while routing the FD cable up from the bottom bracket to the FD I had the cable going behind the chainstay bridge rather than in front of the chainstay bridge.
The cable runs from the bb guide up into and through a hole behind the bb. The exit point is such that the cable has to go up and forward some to the derailleur. The angle is enough that the cable pops out of the guide.
The yellow liner is there in order to better highlight the position of the cable in relation to the guide.
elliott
03-05-2019, 08:04 PM
Is it still like that after you have followed the tech doc for installation and the cable tension is dialed in? I had some trouble setting these up the first few times. Started fresh following the instructions. If nothing changes I would run a liner just past the guide and see if that keeps the cable in place. If it is slightly out in the small ring but falls into the guide when you shift to the big ring and the cable tension is dialed, I wouldn't stress it.
I think that this is going to be something that you have to just test out, to see if the cage-travel adjustments are still ample to each end of the cage's needed travel.
Consider the cable's path where it bends down, that path defines the shape of the cam or lever that exists between the cable and the link pivot.
If the starting and ending points of tangency of the cable with the arm/lever/cam in the two derailer positions (hi and lo) are changed by your cable's path around the link, then the travel of the derailer cage will also change.
This may or may not be significant to the ability to adjust the cage's travel limits to where they need to be.
But it is also possible for the adjustment of the screws to control the cage travel as well, so maybe it would only be an unlucky worst-case scenario for the cage travel not to still be as fully adjustable as needed.
In this regard, note that in the R8000 and 9000/9100 gruppos, the hi-limit is built into the lever, not the derailer, and the hi-screw on the derailer is a "boost" screw that works between the cable anchor and the linkage. Turning the hi-screw clockwise makes the cage move further out at any point of the cable's travel.
The lo-liomit screw on these derailers works normally as lo-limit screw.
The one thing that I sometimes struggle with on these derailers is my ability to pull quite enough slack out of the cable on the first try.
Since there is a rotational freeplay in the cable anchor unit, it seems to randomly rotate to a slacker position as the final tightening of the anchor screw is done. That leaves much less range of tension adjustment in the cable adjuster!
So I usually jam something behind the cage to hold it out a little further while I secure the cable.
edit
I think that this is going to be something that you have to just test out, to see if the cage-travel adjustments are still ample to each end of the cage's needed travel.
Consider the cable's path where it bends down, that path defines the shape of the cam or lever that exists between the cable and the link pivot.
If the starting and ending points of tangency of the cable with the arm/lever/cam in the two derailer positions (hi and lo) are changed by your cable's path around the link, then the travel of the derailer cage will also change.
I had the derailleur working albeit without the chain installed. The cable did stay in the grove at the top of the derailleur.....and out of the derailleur body cable guide with/without inner liner in place.
It just looks kluged and unbecoming of a zapbuiltbike. I do have one or two idea's to fix Shimano's not so flexible design.
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