OT: 2" Hole in Stainless Steel Table

[charliedid]

I need to cut a hole 2" in a stainless table in our cafe. I was told I needed a carbide hole saw by the carpenter who did a lot of the work for me. I went to the hardware and was sold a Lenox T3 Bi-Metal hole saw and correct arbor. When I said "you sure" the woman refused to believe it wouldn't work ( I've been here 18 years ...she always says that and she is usually right with her suggestions) I bought it but I am not convinced it's what I should use.

I looked on the Lenox site and see a saw designed for stainless and tile that is carbide. I feel that is what I should have. Any thoughts on this? Buy a different saw, use the one I have and just go slow and use cutting oil? This shouldn't be so hard.

Thanks

https://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/bi-metal-speed-slot-hole-saw-with-t3-technology.aspx

I see lot's of these for sale at various prices. It this the type of saw I should use?

https://drillsandcutters.com/4-carbide-tipped-hole-cutter-1-depth-of-cut/?gclid=CjwKCAiA4t_iBRApEiwAn-vt-5D2dBNlwkC6mYTmQC3D1_Fwje2et05men-83j4ZSU15mN-WXJWr6hoCN_AQAvD_BwE

[AngryScientist]

how thick is the steel?

depending on this, and how perfect you need the 2" hole to be, there are various at-home methods to accomplish this.

[unterhausen]

that's a good question. If it's thin sheet metal, you can probably fake your way through with the hole saw you bought. Note that hole saws usually drill somewhat big, up to 1/8" is common.

[Dasarbule]

That hole saw will work but it's going to make a mess, especially if you are planning to use it with a hand drill.
When I used to build restaurant equipment and architectural metal work, to make a hole in stainless sheet, we would normally drill a smaller hole then use a hydraulic knock out tool as below;

[sokyroadie]

You will be fine, we have cut up to 4" dia. holes in 3/8 stainless with a hand drill - not fun but no issues, just use cutting oil. We used the same Lenox hole saw as you bought.

[donevwil]

I would use a knockout punch assuming the top is no thicker than 8 gauge. Around here they can be rented at a good tool rental place.

EDIT: I see that was already recommended. Hydraulic would be the easiest but manual will also work with some serious elbow grease.

[charliedid]

That hole saw will work but it's going to make a mess, especially if you are planning to use it with a hand drill.
When I used to build restaurant equipment and architectural metal work, to make a hole in stainless sheet, we would normally drill a smaller hole then use a hydraulic knock out tool as below;

This is interesting

[charliedid]

14 gauge.

My espresso maker and grinders sit on it.

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/advance-tabco-tkss-305-30-x-60-14-gauge-open-base-stainless-steel-commercial-work-table-with-5-backsplash/109TKSS305.html

[charliedid]

You will be fine, we have cut up to 4" dia. holes in 3/8 stainless with a hand drill - not fun but no issues, just use cutting oil. We used the same Lenox hole saw as you bought.

So just go slow and use cutting oil? It's solid too because it's bolted to a wall.

Thanks for the insight.

[charliedid]

how thick is the steel?

depending on this, and how perfect you need the 2" hole to be, there are various at-home methods to accomplish this.

I'd like it to be perfect :-) The hole would be under the espresso maker and not really visible. I'd also add some sort of grommet. That said it's not a cheap table and I don't want to F it up.

Cheers

[KarlC]

We use the below all the time at work now for Stainless Steel panels, I'm not sure why they work so much better that a standard Carbide Tipped Hole Saw with lots of teeth but they do.

They are cheap and work great for us.......

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N756Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

.

[skiezo]

It will work but you need to go at it with a slowwww speed drill. If you go fast you will burn up and take the temper out of the teeth. Also for SS plain old water is what we use in the shop. All you really want to do is keep the tool/hole saw cool. And remember slow is the way to go.
Or call a electrician and have them knock it out with a punch .

[pbarry]

The OP has the perfect tool, imo--what we used at Merlin to miter tubes. I would suggest using a center punch where you want the center of the hole to be. You could predrill with your pilot bit, then put the pilot bit in the mandrel and make the big hole. Medium speed--not too slow or a tooth can catch. Another person who can watch for plumb while you start the hole is nice. This will turn out fine. :)

[charliedid]

Thanks everyone

I'm inclined to try the hole saw I bought but just annoyed with myself for buying something at the same time second guessing it.

[audiisaac]

Go real slow. I calculated a 95 rpm @ 50 sfm for 2” diameter HHS in 304 stainless. If you go too fast you will destroy the hole saw, but more importantly will work harden the sheet and won’t be able to finish the cut at all. I would highly recommend using a true cutting oil on stainless vs water as it will add a bit of lubrication and keep the material and tool cool. You can probably get tap magic at the same hardware store. You do not need/want carbide and will probably chip the teeth instantly which will then work harden the material more. Stainless work hardens with heat so you always want to pull a chip with the saw, once it stops cutting STOP! . Slow speed and high feed. If I was doing the job I would buy an extra holesaw and swap them out at the first sign of dulling.

You will totally be able to do this. Drill the 1/4” pilot hole and go at it. I would approach it a little differently that the poster above and rock the bit a wee little bit to really apply force on the tool. 2” even with a holesaw is a lot of surface area to cut by hand.

I doubt you will be able to rent any tool to punch a 2” hole in 14 ga stainless. It would take 17 tons of force.

I own an architectural metal shop and bakery so have cut my share of stainless.


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[Plum Hill]

That hole saw is going to wobble as the pilot eats the hole out. Drill a 1/4” pilot hole first. Use a drill blank for the pilot.
The saw is going to grab at the surface so be careful.
Too much speed/not enough lube and you’re going to discolor the surface.
Getting a clean cut using a hand held drill is almost impossible. (You could drill through a 2x4 using a drill press and clamp the wood to the surface, if possible). You’ll need a grommet to neaten things up.
A KO cutter is ideal but you’ll still need a pilot hole for the arbor to pass through. Quality of the hole depends on the condition of the cutter. A good cutter will leave a slightly rounded edge as it goes in.

[charliedid]

Go real slow. I calculated a 95 rpm @ 50 sfm for 2” diameter HHS in 304 stainless. If you go too fast you will destroy the hole saw, but more importantly will work harden the sheet and won’t be able to finish the cut at all. I would highly recommend using a true cutting oil on stainless vs water as it will add a bit of lubrication and keep the material and tool cool. You can probably get tap magic at the same hardware store. You do not need/want carbide and will probably chip the teeth instantly which will then work harden the material more. Stainless work hardens with heat so you always want to pull a chip with the saw, once it stops cutting STOP! . Slow speed and high feed. If I was doing the job I would buy an extra holesaw and swap them out at the first sign of dulling.

You will totally be able to do this. Drill the 1/4” pilot hole and go at it. I would approach it a little differently that the poster above and rock the bit a wee little bit to really apply force on the tool. 2” even with a holesaw is a lot of surface area to cut by hand.

I doubt you will be able to rent any tool to punch a 2” hole in 14 ga stainless. It would take 17 tons of force.

I own an architectural metal shop and bakery so have cut my share of stainless.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like this answer.

After I drill the pilot I assume I want the drill spinning a bit before the saw makes contact right?

Thanks everyone....we got this.

[audiisaac]

What kind of drill are you using corded or cordless? Corded is better as it will have way more torque. I would have the hole saw contacting the table before you turn it on. You can even pulse a little bit with the trigger to time your pressure and keep the speed lower.

[charliedid]

What kind of drill are you using corded or cordless? Corded is better as it will have way more torque. I would have the hole saw contacting the table before you turn it on. You can even pulse a little bit with the trigger to time your pressure and keep the speed lower.

Got it. I'll use a corded drill for this for sure.

Thanks

[Mikej]

This is interesting

Also, check into chassis punches-

[charliedid]

Also, check into chassis punches-

Sounds painful :-)

Thanks for the info.

[Hindmost]

..just annoyed with myself for buying something at the same time second guessing it...

Sounds like every home project I do.

[paredown]

Don't think anyone mentioned it, but lay out your hole and use a prick punch to mark it, so that pilot bit won't walk...

[Mikej]

Sounds like every home project I do.

My way of looking at it - I can screw it up several times for half the price of a professional - if they even show up. And I get to keep the tools.

[charliedid]

Sounds like every home project I do.

No kidding...

[charliedid]

Don't think anyone mentioned it, but lay out your hole and use a prick punch to mark it, so that pilot bit won't walk...

Yep

TY

[sitzmark]

I did a similar project on a SS DCS grill cart - 1.5" hole. Was cutting on a vertical surface so it was impossible to use cutting oil effectively. Had to rock the bit slightly in all directions to get the saw to bite. Gets a little squirrelly as you approach the end - once the teeth cut all the way through (in one location) the saw can jamb and stop instantly. Be prepared ... slow and steady.

I didn't get a perfect hole as the saw was difficult to keep fully tracked once the SS was fully breached. Used a carbide hole rasp to round it out and a dremel sanding bit to smooth it down. Finished it with a plastic grommet.

Be patient, stay positive ... you will finish ... eventually. Take occasional breaks with a favorite beverage. (but not in excess;) )

[David Kirk]

To echo others - go slow, use a good bit of pressure and use lots of cutting oil. If the stainless gets hot (oil smoking) the stainless will work harden and things will get much more difficult.

All that said - if you have patience and use pressure and oil it will go just fine.


dave

[FriarQuade]

Got it. I'll use a corded drill for this for sure.

Thanks

Preferably off to the side.

[charliedid]

Well, that worked fine. It took forever and I'm sure that saw and bit are good for maybe cutting cheese at this point.

I think because of the location I was favoring one side and not as straight as I should have been. I went slow to slowish and sometimes the trigger just seemed to accelerate. It literally took me a what seemed like 20 minutes but it made a rather clean cut. Phil tenacious for the win! That said I gotta think a stainless saw would cut easier but maybe it was just my technique. Either way it worked great.

My coffee nerd employee went to grab the knocked out disc part and I grabbed his arm before he touched it. I gave him a pliers and told him to use those and if he wanted to... run it under the water for a few seconds. I said careful with that as he ran the tip of his finger over it making a nice little slice. Ouch!

We played Hole (Live Through This) on the stereo and he named the cut out disc Courtney :p:hello:;)

Thanks everyone.

[Louis]

Now you need some grommet edging to protect folks from loosing a chunk of finger on the hole edge:

https://www.zoro.com/panduit-grommet-edging-144-thick-black-100ft-l-gee144f-a-c0/i/G0767468/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqo6hkoum4AIVFdtkCh3_tQ6Z EAQYBSABEgLx1_D_BwE

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z3qC9_mcpyx_.JPG

[charliedid]

Now you need some grommet edging to protect folks from loosing a chunk of finger on the hole edge:

https://www.zoro.com/panduit-grommet-edging-144-thick-black-100ft-l-gee144f-a-c0/i/G0767468/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqo6hkoum4AIVFdtkCh3_tQ6Z EAQYBSABEgLx1_D_BwE

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z3qC9_mcpyx_.JPG

I used some of that. I had purchased it for that tables edge and ribs under it because a couple refrigerators sit under two of the tables.

I should have taken pics.