Tell me about chain wax

[R3awak3n]

In particular this new chain wax that is all over instagram. Goes on easy and according to them its the best thing since sliced bread

https://wendperformance.com/buy-online/chain-wax-kit


Seems interesting

[John H.]

I used this stuff for a bit on my cross and hardtail- Worked pretty well.
Regular lube just dries out or turns to sludge offroad.

I am currently using Molten Speed wax- Takes some initial setup (and a small crock pot)- But one up and running it is easier to keep going.
It is easier to do the Molten Speed wax thing on a new chain- It was kind of a pain to get all of the Wendwax off of my pulleys, chainrings and cassette.

I still use Prolink gold for road use-

[Dave]

Seems ridiculous to me. You need lube to flow between the roller and pin to reduce wear that creates elongation. That stuff isn't going to flow, unless it's the wax-off product that really has the lube in it. Even then, you've got an expensive product being applied in a manner where a great deal of the product soaks into a rag and gets wasted. That stick of wax will break off at some point and waste a lot of product, too.

Liquid dry lubes like clean ride show the application of a large amount to the chain, right by the cogs, while spinning the cranks. Seems like a good way to make big mess and use up a 4-ounce bottle in about 4 applications. They also recommend applying it at 50-75 mile intervals.

http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/lubricants/clean-ride

I've been using my home made dry lube for several months now and it seems to be working well, but I do apply it often. I apply it to the lower section of chain and use a paper shop towel to catch the excess and wipe the chain. I don't bother to carefully apply one drop to each roller, since it only costs pennies per ounce. I suspect that most people would never clean a chain using this product, but the chain will still collect grit between the plates, so occasional chain cleaning is still a good idea.

[R3awak3n]

I love what I use right now, NFS, but it is messy stuff (just like any wet lube). This wax stuff looks amazing on paper but something feels weird to me.

Pretty much I would love a cleaner solution. I don't care if I have to redo ever few hundred miles but you bring good points Dave.

@John H. - I have heard about the Molten Wax. I have a friend that uses it and really does like it. Seems tried and true but the hole pot setup system is not something I want to do

[Tony]

Who uses a black rag to clean their chain.
If rub on wax is your thing maybe try some Burts Beeswax lip balm. Most likely will get you the same results.

https://thrivemarket.com/p/burts-bees-beeswax-lip-balm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_medium=pla&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shopping_CL0_Decile&utm_content=792850011984&utm_term=na&ccode=THRV20&ccode_force=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmuHhBRD0ARIsAFWyPwjvOepFXgVNIiHfzo_N qs5dN-e_aO-rkywYgDC3-gWAepzBnDo8OcoaArZrEALw_wcB

[Mark McM]

Seems ridiculous to me. You need lube to flow between the roller and pin to reduce wear that creates elongation. That stuff isn't going to flow, unless it's the wax-off product that really has the lube in it. Even then, you've got an expensive product being applied in a manner where a great deal of the product soaks into a rag and gets wasted. That stick of wax will break off at some point and waste a lot of product, too.

Wax has consistently shown to be a low friction chain lube in multiple tests. Perhaps that is due to the fact that it doesn't flow, so there is no viscous drag. But there have been questions about durability and chain wear when using wax. Here's an article about a lube endurance test, performed by an Australian company Zero Friction Cycling:

https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/fast-chain-lube-that-saves-you-money/

Interestingly, in this test Wend Wax had one of the fastest chain wear rates, whereas Molten Speed Wax had the slowest chain wear.

[redir]

IMHO wax chain lubes suck but they are the best thing for dirt and cyclocross ;)

They suck because you have to apply it all the time but nothing sheds mud better.

[PSJoyce]

On a road bike, I was initially excited by Wend -- it did keep the drive line visibly clean. But, it didn't seem to last, gummed up pulleys and chain wheels and worst of all, flaked off leaving impossible to clean flakes and blobs of wax on my basement floor. A grubby basement floor is not an acceptable trade off for a clean chain.

I'm back to NFS applied as recommended with frequent chain wipes.

[bart998]

I'm pretty happy with White Lightning wax chain lube. Chain has to be very clean to begin with. Now use it on all my bikes... on and off road. https://www.amazon.com/White-Lightning-Original-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B000C14HL0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1547226834&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=white+lightning+chain+lube&psc=1

[JStonebarger]

I've been using straight paraffin wax for several months now and it works very well. After the initial set up it takes very little time, and the entire drive train stays nice and clean. Wax also has to be the cheapest chain lube out there.

Not sure what the advantage is to rub-on wax. Heat and dip is the way to go.

[ultraman6970]

Ultra has a bag with chain wax moving around if somebody wants it for a fee...

[Joxster]

I remember the days of cleaning my chain with petrol (gas), rinsing and drying then melting wax and putting the fresh chain in and shaking to get the wax into every roller. That was 34 years ago, I thought we had moved on since then.

[ultraman6970]

Some guys are still using it, not me tho, no time to do that :p

[Lanternrouge]

Wend is a local company here and a lot of guys use it and are really happy with it. Some people have tried it and gone back to using something else, but it seems a majority of the people who try it out here stick with it. Personally, I still use NFS and just bought two new bottles.

[Ken Robb]

My uneducated opinion is that wax is dandy for preventing rust but it's not a very effective lubricant.

[Dave]

Wax has consistently shown to be a low friction chain lube in multiple tests. Perhaps that is due to the fact that it doesn't flow, so there is no viscous drag. But there have been questions about durability and chain wear when using wax. Here's an article about a lube endurance test, performed by an Australian company Zero Friction Cycling:

https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/fast-chain-lube-that-saves-you-money/

Interestingly, in this test Wend Wax had one of the fastest chain wear rates, whereas Molten Speed Wax had the slowest chain wear.

The kmc chain wear gauge used in the testing appears to be one of the many types that push the rollers in opposite directions and adds roller OD wear to the true elongation. If that's the case, then the wear readings are inaccurate. Roller wear can be 20 to 30 times greater than the wear that causes elongation (change in pitch). When I did some chain wear measuring with campy chains, I found that the rollers could have a huge amount of wear, but far less than .5% elongation, using a home brew wet lube made from synthetic gear lube and naptha. The roller wear is still bad for a cassette and will cause new-chain skip, even with low elongation.

When wipperman performs chain wear tests, they measure the elongation properly - over the full length, through the pin holes with a uniform tension.

[Mark McM]

The kmc chain wear gauge used in the testing appears to be one of the many types that push the rollers in opposite directions and adds roller OD wear to the true elongation. If that's the case, then the wear readings are inaccurate. Roller wear can be 20 to 30 times greater than the wear that causes elongation (change in pitch). When I did some chain wear measuring with campy chains, I found that the rollers could have a huge amount of wear, but far less than .5% elongation, using a home brew wet lube made from synthetic gear lube and naptha. The roller wear is still bad for a cassette and will cause new-chain skip, even with low elongation.

All of this is true. But much of the variation in measuring accuracy can be mitigated by using the same brand and model of chain with each lube. The absolute value of measurements will be affected by the measuring method used, but this test was interested in the relative rate of wear, not absolute value. As long as this tool gave repeatable results in measuring wear, it should be sufficient for this test.

[jpritchet74]

Wax is great. I will never use regular chain lube again. My crockpot is on and melting wax right now. Chain will go in there in about an hour and come on out about 4 hours later - perfectly lubed for ~400 miles of use.

[froze]

I don't have the time to read all of the posts so maybe this has been covered.

I use to use the hot wax method back about 40 years ago and it was a huge pain to do, so when TriFlow came out I embraced it wholeheartedly, and I found out that my chains lasted longer using TriFlow by about 7,000 miles! That's not a small amount of miles that could be sneezed off at. My chain life went from 8,000 miles to 15,000 on average, keep in mind too that those were the older stronger wider heavier chains than today's jewelry size light weight chains, but even those thinner chains if kept cleaned and oiled should last at least 8,000 miles because that's what I have on mine and it's still good. Not only did the chain last longer using oil but it also didn't start to rust like it would with wax. By the way, I was torturing my chains back then, I was racing back then (not a pro) as well, and doing a lot of mountain training and racing.

Of course oil does get dirtier so it does need to be kept clean, but that is the job of oil, oil gets dirty because it suspends debris on the surface of the oil and protects the metal gears better than wax can. In fact the reason chains and oil turns black is from aluminum oxide coming off the aluminum chainrings as you pedal, this AL oxide are tiny metal particles which acts like sandpaper and eats your chains and gears which is why it's important to keep the chain clean regardless of using wax or oil. Plus with wax you have to take the chain apart to do the hot wax method which is WAY superior to the drip on crap, but every time you take a chain apart, even using a special removable link, you take a greater chance of the chain breaking mid ride if you don't replace that link with a new one after every rewaxing. The reason some chains come with a heavy sticky wax from the factory is to protect the chain from salt air found on seaports and at sea when being shipped, and some chains come with a heavy sticky lube similar to chainsaw lube which does the same thing. The problem with wax is that it doesn't let the AL oxide particles to turn black like oil does, the particles are still there though, so people are lead into a false sense of security that the chain doesn't need cleaning...WRONG! This is probably why my chains back in the old days when I hot waxed didn't last as long because I thought the chain was clean! But this problem I had was shared by everyone that I knew that hot waxed.

I will never go back to hot waxing a chain, it's just too much work and hassle that I'm not going to do, cycling for me is fun, and work like hot waxing is not fun to me. But if you're going to wax then do it right and hot wax it, don't play with little squirt bottles of that crap, that bottle junk goes on too thin to do any good at protecting the chain. Just get on YouTube and watch videos on how it's done, while not complicated, and it's cheap, it's a lot time and work. I had two chains hanging that when I took one chain off to re-wax it I put one of the two pre-waxed chains on, I kept one chain for a spare in case I broke one on a ride which never happened. If you do decide to hot wax don't worry about any excess wax you see, it will flake off as you ride...but it's this flaking off business is why I don't like wax as a chain protectant, oil doesn't flake off.

Don't read about the pros using wax therefore you should too, what they don't tell you in those articles is that the pros discard their chains every 200 miles max and usually after every ride! There is a reason for that, first off they are specially treated with a specialized wax, and they know that wax is only good for about 100 to 150 miles and then the chain begins to wear because even their specialized wax doesn't protect, therefore the wax you and I would use doesn't even protect as well as theirs does!! https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/late ... -it-321497

What's weird is that KMC recommends that you use their lube called Chain Lube Original, it's what they put on the chains when it leaves the factory, it's not an oil nor a wax, it's some sort of grease mixed with wax. And KMC recommends cleaning the chain with a mild soap like Dawn for Dishes (non citrus) on a sponge dampened with warm water, this is how I clean my chains before I went with Rock N Roll and still do after I think the Rock N Roll has been on too long without a good cleaning.

The lube I use one of two Rock N Roll lubes, one is the Gold which I use on my touring and commuter bikes because it holds up to rain really well without being an all out wet lube, and the other is Absolute Dry that I use on my road bikes. I am not saying that Rock N Roll is the best lube, personally after using many different lubes I've found there isn't a huge difference other then the drip on wax lubes that I found to be far inferior to oil based lubes. Rock N Roll won't discuss what their ingredients are, but I have it on "good" word that it's a petrochemical mix of wax, ceramic and PTFE (which I think is the stuff that settles to the bottom of the bottle, it's creamy and it's similar in appearance to PTFE that was originally used in Slick 50 before they changed to a non DuPont teflon which didn't work as well, and FinishLine Ceramic also had a creamy colored settlement), with some sort of membrane that connects the wax and ceramic with the PTFE oil and bonds it to the metal...or so they say! There is also a carrier mixed into the fluid that evaporates away which is why you need to wait overnight for that to evaporate before riding. Rock N Roll does leave the chain cleaner, and it lasts longer than other lubes I've tried which brings the expensive bottle of the stuff in line with others when you consider you don't have to lube it as much. And the Gold doesn't splatter like the wet lubes do. Another thing about Rock N Roll is that you need to start with a clean chain, then apply it per instructions but do so frequently for the first month like after every other ride, then after that you can go to just once every week; also wipe the chain down with a clean rag after every ride. But since I switched to Rock N Roll I haven't had to clean my chain at all, which is weird for me but the chains keep going.

[JStonebarger]

I don't have the time to read all of the posts so maybe this has been covered.

FWIW, several of your more disparaging observations seem to contradict all testing on chain lubes. Chain wax is faster, and can protect chains better than oils.

[Hilltopperny]

I use the white lightning dry lube on any of my bikes that see dirt consistently and I like it, but I do reapply regularly during the season. I like it, but I haven't really checked for chain wear yet.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[oldguy00]

I've been using molten wax for this past season. I love it. I don't mind taking the time to re-apply every so often
The chain stays so damn clean now, can grab it with your hands to remove wheels, etc., perfectly clean. Doesn't hurt that it has always tested fastest too.

[froze]

FWIW, several of your more disparaging observations seem to contradict all testing on chain lubes. Chain wax is faster, and can protect chains better than oils.

Actually that's incorrect, the test you speak of has been found to have some errors, you can read more about it here: http://biketestreviews.com/the-last-word-on-chain-lubrication/ that article mentions what he prefers as his best oil, not sure if I agree with him but the stuff he mentions will lube a chain.

[froze]

All of this love for wax stuff got me to wondering, why not simply take a liquid car wax like Meguiar's Ultimate liquid wax and pour it on a chain? Or rub a car paste wax like the Meguiars Ultimate paste wax all over a chain? Let the wax dry and ride. I think this season I'll try doing that to my chain that has around 8,000 miles on it and see what happens, the worse that will happen is I have to replace the chain, but with 8,000 miles on it I don't care. Unfortunately I don't have a power meter, but I can tell if the chain is not getting lubed properly from any noise it might make.

[JStonebarger]

Actually that's incorrect, the test you speak of has been found to have some errors, you can read more about it here: http://biketestreviews.com/the-last-word-on-chain-lubrication/

The "Last Word" on chain lube is a four-old-piece with no actual data that mainly speaks to chain wear? No thanks.

Personally, I'm not interested in cleaning a chain after every ride, no matter how many miles it will last. I like wax because it's quick, clean, and easy. And because it's fastest.

[glepore]

All of this love for wax stuff got me to wondering, why not simply take a liquid car wax like Meguiar's Ultimate liquid wax and pour it on a chain? Or rub a car paste wax like the Meguiars Ultimate paste wax all over a chain? Let the wax dry and ride. I think this season I'll try doing that to my chain that has around 8,000 miles on it and see what happens, the worse that will happen is I have to replace the chain, but with 8,000 miles on it I don't care. Unfortunately I don't have a power meter, but I can tell if the chain is not getting lubed properly from any noise it might make.

Car waxes aren't paraffin, they are carnuba if actually wax and polymers if not. They shine nice but aren't very good lubricants.

I don't get the "hassle" factor of hot wax. I have a dedicated crockpot. Once a month or so I turn it on, remove chains from bikes(s), clean and wax. Its easier if you keep chains in rotation, and just reinstall a chain waxed "last time" and wax the chain that just came off and hang it to cool. I haven't had a tattoo since I switched, and you can handle the chain without marks if loading or it drops. Time wise its less than lubing each roller, allowing it to settle in and wiping wiping wiping.

[Seramount]

tried hot-dipping in paraffin several times. tedious effort for disappointing results.

for riding in dry, relatively dirt-free conditions, my preferred oil-based lube is far superior.

application takes 3-5 minutes and a post-ride wipe down is done in under 20 seconds. lube interval is typically ~750 miles and chains are routinely lasting 10K miles.

chain only comes off the bike for replacement. anything that requires removal is undesirable.

[zap]

I don't get the "hassle" factor of hot wax. I have a dedicated crockpot. Once a month or so I turn it on, remove chains from bikes(s), clean and wax.

It's not so bad if wax lasted more than a Saturdays ride. That was back in the day when I rode 100 or so miles on Saturday's.

I never got much more mileage than that before the squeak squeak squeak squeak started so forget about riding a waxed chain on Sunday's.

I gave up after 4-5 attempts.

[basilic]

I wonder why some people have a bad experience with wax. I've been waxing chains for years, paraffin (bought as a bloc at the druggist) with added graphite powder (lock lubricant).

Advantages:
- chain (and cogs and rings) stay clean. No need to wipe it down.
- chains last forever (and cassettes), cheap and ecologically correct
- good lubrication

Disadvantages:
- hassle factor. That is probably personal. Removing a chain is a pain when the chain is covered in black gunk, but a waxed chain is clean. I use Sram or KMC links, repeatedly despite the warnings, never had an issue. Also, for 3 bikes in the household, we have maybe 6 chains in rotation, and I will wax 3-4 at a time, on a rainy day, so maybe 1500-2000 km worth of riding. Anyway, I don't mind, it's like cooking for your family or making your own jam.
- rainy rides drastically shorten the lubricated life of the chain. Not good for wet climates (I use lube on my commuter that gets used rain or shine)
- trips: a chain will last 400-600 km in my experience. If you go on a weeklong trip one chain is not enough. If you have a base bring a 2nd chain along, but if it's an unsupported ride better switch to a lubed chain.

[Alan]

Read this article:

https://www.roadbikerider.com/make-bike-chain-last/

I have been using NFS and getting about 3000 mi to a Campy chain. This article has me thinking for the next chain maybe I should try this.

I only use the Pedros chain checker which is similar to the Shimano type and works quite well.

Alan

[froze]

Car waxes aren't paraffin, they are carnuba if actually wax and polymers if not. They shine nice but aren't very good lubricants.

I don't get the "hassle" factor of hot wax. I have a dedicated crockpot. Once a month or so I turn it on, remove chains from bikes(s), clean and wax. Its easier if you keep chains in rotation, and just reinstall a chain waxed "last time" and wax the chain that just came off and hang it to cool. I haven't had a tattoo since I switched, and you can handle the chain without marks if loading or it drops. Time wise its less than lubing each roller, allowing it to settle in and wiping wiping wiping.

No it's not less time than lubing, I've done both and lubing is quite a bit quicker taking about 20 seconds if you do one roller at a time, but Rock N Roll is actually faster because you dribble in on while you spin the pedals faster than other lubes say to do; and wiping you spin the pedals backwards fast and you can get that done in 10 seconds. Even with hot wax you have to wait for it cool and harden, while true with lubes you should wait at least 6 hours but that's no big deal if you're the type of person who sleeps at least 6 hours a night!

I also had a dedicated crockpot, no waxing has more of a process it to it. Melting the was alone will take about an hour in a slow crockpot, but by the time you melted your wax to 200 degrees I've washed my bike, cleaned my gears and chain and re-lubed my chain.

By the way, when I use to wax (I used Gulf Wax, but really any wax will work) chains we used paraffin oil, but later switched to Slick 50 (the original Slick 50 with Dupont teflon, since then Slick 50 has used a inferior version of Dupont teflon) and added that in at about a 1 to 1 ratio if I remember; we tested it by sticking a spoon into the mixture, let the spoon cool down till the wax was hard, and give it the fingernail test to see if the wax comes off the spoon in pieces, if it did we added a bit more oil till the spoon test showed it sticking to the spoon and my nail would only smear it around with no pieces coming off. So just getting the consistency right took more time then it would to lube a chain! Put the chain in let it set till it bubbles and stir the chain around a bit to get all the links to move and the bubbles to stop. Once you remove the chain you have wipe it down before it cools just as you do with lube to get the excess wax off, and you have to keep wiping till it looks clean, then hang it for about a 1/2 an hour, or overnight is convenient which is what I did; once it's cool you have to work all the links to make sure there are no stiff links from the wax.

For a short while I was even removing the freewheel and placing just the gears into the molten wax thinking I was helping the chain out by not using some of the wax on the chain to cover the gears, not sure if that worked because I never noticed anything better happening.

And then you have to disassemble and reassemble the chain, work the chain through the gears to push out any extra wax.

So no, I disagree with you, there is a lot more work to waxing a chain if you're doing it correctly then there is with lubing. Not only that but whenever it rained I had to re wax the chain, but even with dry riding you had to repeat the waxing process about every 250 miles which is why I had another chain hanging and ready to go.

[JStonebarger]

Most of us who have tried waxing have done both. So far waxing seems to save me time. In part this is because I'm quick about it -- no spoon tests, mineral spirits bath all set, several chains at a time, etc. Partly, too, this is because any discussion of the time it takes has to include cleaning the chain, the cassette, the chaingrings, and whatever else that constant mess of ordinary chain lubes has gotten all over.

I remember once changing my wife's bar tape to a light blue matching our new kit. She loved it. On her next ride she dropped her chain, used her fingers to get it back on, and messed up her new bar tape. That won't happen with wax.

[Dave]

A dry wax based lube may be the best of both worlds. My drivetrain is cleaner than ever and relubing only takes a couple of minutes, tops.

All you need is 6-7 ounces of naptha (white gas/camp fuel), one ounce of wax and 2-5% oil to make a good dry lube.

[froze]

Most of us who have tried waxing have done both. So far waxing seems to save me time. In part this is because I'm quick about it -- no spoon tests, mineral spirits bath all set, several chains at a time, etc. Partly, too, this is because any discussion of the time it takes has to include cleaning the chain, the cassette, the chaingrings, and whatever else that constant mess of ordinary chain lubes has gotten all over.

I remember once changing my wife's bar tape to a light blue matching our new kit. She loved it. On her next ride she dropped her chain, used her fingers to get it back on, and messed up her new bar tape. That won't happen with wax.

My chains using Rock N Roll lubes never get my fingers black either, and with the Rock N Roll stuff I no longer clean my chains if I don't want to, but I do anyways because I'm anal like that just not as much as I use to.

I know you can have all the stuff prepared for waxing once you have it dialed in, but people need to know the process involved

Like I said before, wax does not last as long as an oil based lube, wax lasts about 200 miles unless it rains then it's gone, Rock N Roll and others I've used last around 400 to 500 miles before doing a quick relube. And yes waxing does take more time no matter what you're trying to convince others about, I'm not going to argue about this any more, I've been there done that I know all to well the time that was involved. Here is a video that speeds through the process but just watching this you know this isn't something quick and easy: https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/waxing-your-chain

I did discover today there's been a product out for a while that has the teflon from Dupont all ready mixed in a wax that you spray out of a can onto the chain and goes on dry and supposedly it's water resistant which I sort of doubt, but anyways it runs very clean on chains: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y It's also available at Walmart. I may try this just for kicks, if it doesn't work to my satisfaction I have things I can use the lube on around the house. Finish Line got bought out by Dupont and now Finish Line has a Wax Lube (simply called that) that is supposedly very durable and very slick, I may try that after the Dupont stuff.

[oldguy00]

Waxing properly is definitely a process, but some of us enjoy doing that kind of work on our bikes. Its usually a day that I'm hanging around the house. Turn the crock pot on, put the chain on top of the hard wax. Go back in an hour and stir the chain around in the hot oil, go back in 20 and take it out and hang up.

Then any time in the future take the cooled chain and run it over something round to break it up quickly, re-install.

If I were in a hurry, I'd just be using R&R Gold.

Question though....if you've waxed your chain, and you show up race morning and it is raining, can you apply an oil over the wax to get you through the day?

[JStonebarger]

Question though....if you've waxed your chain, and you show up race morning and it is raining, can you apply an oil over the wax to get you through the day?

I haven't had an issue in rain so far -- wax holds up to water very well (tests confirm this), with the added benefit that it doesn't hold as much sand and dirt as wet lubes can. After the muddiest 'cross season I've had in years -- my first using wax -- I'm very happy with it.

In the pit once a friend applied a wet lube to my waxed chain without me knowing it (very wet race). Whether or not the chain needed it I don't know, but the wet lube worked fine. Afterward I stripped the chain again to prepare it for wax.

After a bit of rain I usually shake water off a freshly waxed chain and forget about it. After heavy or prolonged rain the chain soaks in MS until I want to wax again and a freshly waxed chain goes on. The swap takes a couple minutes. (During cx season I had 10-12 chains in rotation for our 4 cross bikes.)

[MisterMurray]

Hmmm, seems like just as with everything thing else bicycle related, it comes down to personal preference...:banana:

[GParkes]

I save the wax for my Speedo lines. Use Triflow for the chains :)

[MikeD]

I did discover today there's been a product out for a while that has the teflon from Dupont all ready mixed in a wax that you spray out of a can onto the chain and goes on dry and supposedly it's water resistant which I sort of doubt, but anyways it runs very clean on chains: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y It's also available at Walmart. I may try this just for kicks, if it doesn't work to my satisfaction I have things I can use the lube on around the house. Finish Line got bought out by Dupont and now Finish Line has a Wax Lube (simply called that) that is supposedly very durable and very slick, I may try that after the Dupont stuff.


Don't bother. I tried it. You need to relube after every ride with this stuff. It's similar (if not identical to) Finish Line Dry.

[John H.]

I did the Molten Speed wax thing a couple weeks ago- I am about ready for a 2nd wax- They say just put the chain in the melted wax and swish around for 60 seconds.

[glepore]

John-yeah, that's what I do. Eventually the wax gets contaminated and needs to be tossed. But I save the stripping for the factory grease. I will throw it in the us cleaner for a cycle to get the surface dirt off.

[HenryA]

Don't bother. I tried it. You need to relube after every ride with this stuff. It's similar (if not identical to) Finish Line Dry.

Regarding DuPont Teflon Chain Saver — My experience is completely opposite. No need to relube very often and does a fine job of quiet lubrication. Stays on pretty great on MTBs as well. You should clean the chain completely before applying the lube (they make a very effective cleaner too). Then follow the directions on the can. When it dries it leaves a dry wax film behind.

The Dupont Teflon Chain Saver also comes in a small dropper bottle if you prefer to do a roller by roller application.

http://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/product/chain-saver-lubricant.php

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=Jmv5Ak9Lo6g

[froze]

Regarding DuPont Teflon Chain Saver — My experience is completely opposite. No need to relube very often and does a fine job of quiet lubrication. Stays on pretty great on MTBs as well. You should clean the chain completely before applying the lube (they make a very effective cleaner too). Then follow the directions on the can. When it dries it leaves a dry wax film behind.

The Dupont Teflon Chain Saver also comes in a small dropper bottle if you prefer to do a roller by roller application.

http://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/product/chain-saver-lubricant.php

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=Jmv5Ak9Lo6g

Interesting; on the video it shows it can be used on a motorcycle, I would think if they are recommending it for a motorcycle it should be more then fine for a bicycle?

I'm still thinking of trying it, I have a really good product I use now so I do have a base to go on.

[weaponsgrade]

Got my first ride in with a Molten Speedwaxed chain. The bike seemed a little loud in the stand, but things were pretty quiet once outside. Shifts were smooth. I couldn't tell much of a difference in the ride, but I'm liking having a clean drive train. Let's see how long it holds up. The cleaning/waxing process was a multi-day affair, but I was waxing a bunch of chains for the bikes I ride the most and also so I could have some waxed chains on standby.

[fmradio516]

I dont pay enough attention to the quality of lube I use on my bikes. Still using really old Pedros dry lube that I have a huge tub of. Come by with your empty bottles; leave with them filled!

[oldguy00]

Got my first ride in with a Molten Speedwaxed chain. The bike seemed a little loud in the stand, but things were pretty quiet once outside. Shifts were smooth. I couldn't tell much of a difference in the ride, but I'm liking having a clean drive train. Let's see how long it holds up. The cleaning/waxing process was a multi-day affair, but I was waxing a bunch of chains for the bikes I ride the most and also so I could have some waxed chains on standby.

The cleanliness is a big reason I love it. I did three chains yesterday.
It took a couple of hours, but that isn't a couple of hours of me actually doing anything to them, it means total time I left them in the crock pot, plus going out every half hour to take one out and hang it up, throw the next in, etc etc.

And yes, very normal to feel rough in the stand, but they smooth right out after a few minutes of actual riding.

[huckjai]

I'm also a Molten Speed Wax convert. The longest process for me was getting the chains completely cleaned. But once cleaned properly, you don't really have to go through the hassle to get them super clean again. As mentioned above, after the chain is cleaned, the majority of the time is spent waiting, for the wax to melt and get up to temp (approx an hour and a half) and then waiting for the wax to dry (half hour). During that time you can do other things, no need to watch a pot boil. The actual amount of time that you are doing anything is probably half an hour. I don't find waxing the chains a hassle at all, and I quite enjoy the process. First time doing it will definitely take a bit longer, but once you know what to do, it's very easy and quicker to do the next time.
Get a couple of extra chains, get a bigger pot, and wax them at the same time. Then you will have multiple chains ready for your bike, and swap them out when needed. The main reason for me trying wax, is to not have to deal with a dirty chain and indeed this is the best solution imo. No more chain tattoos on your legs, no more dirty fingers if you need to change tires or do any type of maintenance. I do find the drivetrain slightly noisier, but by no means annoying. The bike shifts and runs fine. Have yet to see whether it affects the longevity of drive train components, as I have not ridden enough to tell. But even if it does affect it a bit, for myself, the pros outweighs the cons.

[Doug Fattic]

The one tip that I will add is to leave the chain in the hot wax long enough that the chain itself comes up to the temperature of the melted wax. This allows liquid wax to penetrate into the chain and also makes it easier to remove excess wax when it comes out of the pot.

[OtayBW]

Get a couple of extra chains, get a bigger pot, and wax them at the same time. Then you will have multiple chains ready for your bike, and swap them out when needed.So, everytime you need to lube your chain, you just change it? :rolleyes:

[fmradio516]

sorry if i missed it, but how does drivetrain wear compare when using wax versus lube?

[weaponsgrade]

Wax is supposed to give much longer drive train life. Once the chain starts to squeak you need to go through the waxing process again. Molten Speedwax says the wax should last 350-400 miles. Which I'm guessing might be optimistic since it's coming from the vendor. If you ride in wet conditions wax might not be the thing for you since the chain will need to be immediately rewaxed. Most of my riding is in dry conditions. So far it's been nice to come back after a ride and just throw the bike back on the hook and still have a shiny chain.

[huckjai]

So, everytime you need to lube your chain, you just change it? :rolleyes:

The wax supposedly lasts around 400 miles. But yes, I swap out the chain around every 250 miles for a pre-waxed chain. Swapping it out is a lot faster and cleaner than relubing a chain.
Then I rewax them all again at the same time when they've all been used. I don't replace it with a new chain each time, if that is what you thought I was doing. I have 3 chains for my bike all waxed at once. Swap them out every 250 miles or so, and then wax them all at once again once the 3rd chain needs to be waxed again. Then repeat the cycle.

[oldguy00]

So, everytime you need to lube your chain, you just change it? :rolleyes:

Its so much easier than people make it out to be. Every 400km or so, if I'm just hanging around the house, I take the chain off and throw it in the crockpot. Go back 30 minutes later to give it a stir, take it out 20 minutes after that and hang it. Then basically any time before my next ride I put it back on the bike which takes about 2 minutes.

[fmradio516]

Its so much easier than people make it out to be. Every 400km or so, if I'm just hanging around the house, I take the chain off and throw it in the crockpot. Go back 30 minutes later to give it a stir, take it out 20 minutes after that and hang it. Then basically any time before my next ride I put it back on the bike which takes about 2 minutes.

my wife would kill me :)

[huckjai]

my wife would kill me :)

Haha, get your own crock pot. Definitely wouldn't want to use the same crock pot you cook food with.

[OtayBW]

I've done the chain wax thing. The cost/benefit is too high for my taste, in part because I am very happy with my current, much easier and very effective system. Unless you're looking at this as some kind of artisanal thing - which is cool if that's your thing - I don't see it.

[fmradio516]

I've done the chain wax thing. The cost/benefit is too high for my taste, in part because I am very happy with my current, much easier and very effective system. Unless you're looking at this as some kind of artisanal thing - which is cool if that's your thing - I don't see it.

Just curious whats your method?

I have always used just whatever dry lubes I had around. My chain is always black/wet looking...

[huckjai]

I've done the chain wax thing. The cost/benefit is too high for my taste, in part because I am very happy with my current, much easier and very effective system. Unless you're looking at this as some kind of artisanal thing - which is cool if that's your thing - I don't see it.

Totally agree that this isn't for everyone. I have a couple of friends who tried it, and decided it was not worth their hassle. And a few other friends who converted. The ones who decided not to convert have been using Squirt lube, which is a wax based lube. It dries on the chain, and doesn't attract much dirt. Seems to be working great for them.

[Ralph]

I ride road bikes on clean roads or paved trails. No winter mix....sand, etc. Makes a big difference in how you lube a chain.

Had some NFS product (worked fine)...used it up...and kept the little bottle/applicator. Filled it with bar oil for my chain saw. Before every ride (or 2-3)....run the chain thru my hand with shop paper towel damp with WD40 for cleaner, apply 2-3 drops of oil around chain, and it seems to circulate itself around chain on a ride. (if I apply to each link...make a big mess)

My chains never really get messy, pulleys and chain don't seem to collect dirt or build up, and chains seem to last as long doing this as any other way to lube a chain. Cost about nothing. But I ride on clean roads.

Did the wax thing 40 years ago. No thanks.

[OtayBW]

Had some NFS product (worked fine)...used it up...Wait....What? :confused: :eek:

[fmradio516]

apply 2-3 drops of oil around chain, and it seems to circulate itself around chain on a ride. (if I apply to each link...make a big mess)


Thats another thing ive been curious about. I have always applied lube to my entire chain but it makes a huge mess.

Do most people just apply a few drops and let it circulate?