This is not a "best chain lube" thread...

[Cloozoe]

It's a cleanest chain lube thread. I've tried a few latter day miracle lubes, but they all have resulted in lots of gunk on cassette and jockey wheels. Always just wind up stripping it off and going back to t9; doesn't seem to get great grades for either friction or longevity, the application bottle sucks, but it's clean.

Anything as dry/clean that might reduce friction/wear a little more and last longer?
Paved road riding exclusively, seldom in the rain. Priorities are cleanliness first, protection against wear/corrosion/friction, second, longevity distant third ( hey, I like fiddling with my bikes)

[45K10]

I really like this stuff:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/weldtite-tf2-performance-lube-with-teflon/rp-prod78591?mx=a
You just need to wipe the chain really good after application. Stays pretty clean even on my MTB.

[zap]

Wax.

It is clean, does protect the chain well enough and longevity.....well, re-apply every Sunday evening after a weekend of riding.....if your rides each day aren't too long.

Have a second bike with regular lube on the chain for weekdays and longer weekend rides.

[tylercheung]

I probably should get in the habit of cleaning my chain more often....was going to just wipe the exterior w/ lube vs. using degreaser

[flyingPiggy]

Wax.

It is clean, does protect the chain well enough and longevity.....well, re-apply every Sunday evening after a weekend of riding.....if your rides each day aren't too long.

Have a second bike with regular lube on the chain for weekdays and longer weekend rides.

+1

I use White Lightning. It's wax based and for the first time application, you will have to spend some time degreasing and cleaning your drive train. I live in So. Cal.(southern california... warm and dry). It's been great so far. The only downside I find is that you will need to apply it more often.

[Cloozoe]

Wax.

Well...remove chain, melt a cauldron of wax, dip chain in cauldron, let harden...

OK, I exaggerated; I don't like fiddling with my bikes that much.

Was all set to pull the trigger on some dumonde tech lite, when I found this old thread, from here at the PF:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=2475

Not sure why I wasted time posting the question - read a gazillion threads, reviews, tests on the subject. My best guess is that looking for a clean but long-lasting/low-friction chain lube is like looking for a grippy but long wearing tire; you get to choose one attribute or the other. I've opted for grippy tires and frequent lube application. T9 is probably as good as anything else; if it were longer lasting it would be dirtier. No free lunch.

[zap]

edit

Well...remove chain, melt a cauldron of wax, dip chain in cauldron, let harden...

I did all that long ago. It was a waste of effing time........took time away from brewing beer.

Now I leave the factory lube on, reapply lube thrice then get a new chain (around the 3k mark) ......and I purchase my beer at the grocery store.

[El Chaba]

Generally when you talk about 'clean" lubes you are talking about dry lubes....and for bicycle chains the term "dry lube" is an oxymoron....

[Cloozoe]

Generally when you talk about 'clean" lubes you are talking about dry lubes....and for bicycle chains the term "dry lube" is an oxymoron....

True, I am. But even many of the "dry" lubes leave a mess. Ah well, something pointless to talk about, anyway. I think worrying about chain lubes is best left to mountain bikers riding through muck on a routine basis.

Zap, I don't brew anymore either.

[KidWok]

These days I'm using pro link gold combined with Phil Wood tenacious oil. Start with a very light application of pro link, then a very light application of Phil, then another very light application of pro link. Takes 10 seconds to apply, then a few more of back pedaling to work it in. I don't wipe it off. Living in Seattle means it will wash off the next time it rains, but that application of lube seems to last a long time in dry conditions.

I used to just use Phil and applied it slowly on each link, then back pedal and wipe off excess. Started using pro link with it because I still have a ton of it around and Phil is harder to work in when it's cold outside. This combo gives me the ease of application of a thin bodied lube and longevity of tenacious oil. It runs pretty clean. I might run an old toothbrush through the drivetrain a couple of times a year just to knock loose any built up grime/paste.

Tai

[Big Dan]

Dumonde Tech Lite Chain Lube works for me.
Rain and other Florida stuff.

[cderalow]

NFS (http://www.nixfrixshun.com/nixfrixshun-ultimate-bicycle-chainlube/)

****'s awesome.

quiet drivetrain, easy application, easy cleanup. just apply 8-10 drops, ride, wipe chain afterward.

[OtayBW]

NFS (http://www.nixfrixshun.com/nixfrixshun-ultimate-bicycle-chainlube/)

****'s awesome.

quiet drivetrain, easy application, easy cleanup. just apply 8-10 drops, ride, wipe chain afterward.
I won't beat a dead horse, but, yeah: NFS. I apply as directed, then wipe the chain down after each ride (30s) and the thing just stays shiny, clean, quiet. I've seen none better...

[rwsaunders]

I wipe the chain down with a shot of WD-40 sprayed on a sock then lube after the links dry a bit. Keep the side plates clean and you're good to go for the most part in between lubes. YMMV of course.

[parris]

I've used a bunch of different chain lubes over the years and for my general riding these days I've gone to using wax for the most part. When I do use a drip on lube I've pretty much settled on basic TriFlow. I know there's better but for what I do I'm able to keep things "clean enough" if I'm careful with it. I tend to work on my bikes as part of the hobby/obsession so the drive train and such gets looked after a fair amount. Just part of ocd with my gear.

[OldCrank]

This stuff is sort of a "lazy man's wax".

Seems to work well but still picks up some road grit after awhile, then I wipe down and add just a little more. Cleaner than any wet lubes I've used. Haven't found any great dry lubes.

Pricey.

https://www.dry-fluids.com/dryfluid-bike-2.html

[hainy]

The fact is that a medium to heavy synthetic wet lube on chains works the best, for wear, for lower friction and coping with changing weather conditions. {I have used many with teams and I have a favorite} Dry lubes are woeful, they barely lube the chain enough to stop it squeaking and you have to pour it on regularly. It is not very economical at all. It is a waste of time in wet weather. Dry lubes are a grub’s method of bike care. {to quote Steve Hogg} All the team mechanics I know only use a wet lube and we have proven it by lubing half the team with one type and the other half with another oil and it shows what
works side by side in the same wash frequency and weather conditions and kilometers. Longevity of the chain and cassette is ensured by regular cleaning and correct lubrication. This can make a four fold difference but that’s up to how much trouble you want to take. Once a week clean and oil before a race is great. To apply the chain lube use a squeeze bottle as sprays are wasteful and messy. Use your left hand to hold the bottle and steady it against the rear derailleur so while turning the pedals on the work stand slowly backwards wipe a drop of oil off the nozzle which just touches the chain onto each and every chain link on the inside of the chain as it feeds off the bottom jockey wheel of the derailleur. The chain should show no traces of black grimy oil if it has been cleaned properly. Then after rotating the pedals for a few moments use an old rage and wrap it around the chain and rotate the pedals again so as to wipe off the excess should it be there. You cannot wipe too much off as it is the oil that is inside the links that does the job and enough will work out to keep the exterior oily enough. After riding there should never be oil flicking over the spokes and rim, if so ease up on the oil and wipe off excess before use. If you start a race in the rain then smear a thin layer of grease on the chain and it will remain fairly well lubed for 4 to 5 hours.
(Quoting Darrell of Llewellyn)
The only lube I will use for the rest of my life is Finish Line wet lube (green bottle). Still the best lube on the planet as far as I am concerned.

[SPOKE]

edit



I did all that long ago. It was a waste of effing time........took time away from brewing beer.

Now I leave the factory lube on, reapply lube thrice then get a new chain (around the 3k mark) ......and I purchase my beer at the grocery store.

I'm glad to know another soul that thinks about chains the way I do:):banana:

[Mikej]

Rock n Roll and Rock n Roll extreme for mtb. Biggest downsides are it takes a lot of product and it wears quickly- but it’s clean.

[joosttx]

acetone is a very clean "lubricant".

[SteveFrench]

I use Valvoline gear oil. That's what D.I.D. says to use on their dirtbike chains so I'm sure that it's good enough for a bicycle. One $8 bottle will last for many many years.

Some of the green people may not like it but I clean my chain with Kerosene after every ride.

I'm not suggesting anyone uses gear oil and kerosene. I'm just saying that it is my choice and I couldn't be happier with it. The idea of paying $13 for a 4oz. bottle of fancy lubricant disgusts me, but to each their own.

[Cloozoe]

acetone is a very clean "lubricant".

~sigh~ No less than I deserve. Truly sorry I started this thread. I knew better, too.

I recall a Simpson's episode wherein Marge tells Homer that she hopes he's at least learned something from his most recent moronic travails; he replies smugly:

"Marge, my friend, I haven't learned a thing!"

D'oh!

[Louis]

Truly sorry I started this thread. I knew better, too.


I triple dog dare you to ask what's better, Campy or Shimano?

https://www.quirkbooks.com/sites/default/files/styles/blog_detail_featured_image/public/u1115/cstory-pole.jpg?itok=reuW2N-M

[Bob Ross]

Then after rotating the pedals for a few moments use an old rage and wrap it around the chain

yeah, any time I get hung up about how "clean" my drivetrain is I wind up in an old rage.
:banana:







but yeah, +1 for NFS

[gemship]

I use Valvoline gear oil. That's what D.I.D. says to use on their dirtbike chains so I'm sure that it's good enough for a bicycle. One $8 bottle will last for many many years.

Some of the green people may not like it but I clean my chain with Kerosene after every ride.

I'm not suggesting anyone uses gear oil and kerosene. I'm just saying that it is my choice and I couldn't be happier with it. The idea of paying $13 for a 4oz. bottle of fancy lubricant disgusts me, but to each their own.

I like that but even better still I use whatever I have on hand multi viscosity motor oil since I do my own oil changes on my vehicles and there is always extra. I cut it with mineral spirits to use as a carrier and get the stuff flowing out of an old park tool oil lube squeeze bottle. Much like the kerosene the spirits work well as a degreaser but I also have a park tool chain cleaner as well as compressed air. Great for more thorough cleaning oh and mineral spirits are just good to have on hand for painting projects or other degreasing activity. A quart bottle has lasted me over six years as I got it just for the task of making my own lube and the motor oil was already paid for. You gotta be a bit of a alchemist messing around with the stuff but it kinda goes hand in hand with keeping your bike clean anyways.

[JStonebarger]

Anything as dry/clean that might reduce friction/wear a little more and last longer?
Paved road riding exclusively, seldom in the rain. Priorities are cleanliness first, protection against wear/corrosion/friction, second, longevity distant third ( hey, I like fiddling with my bikes)

I've only been waxing our chains for a few months, so I'm still experimenting...

I don't mind fiddling with my bikes, as you say, but I'm pretty lazy about cleaning. Believe it or not that was what convinced me to try waxing: your drive train is no longer oily; taking off the chain to wax is quick and easy and no longer a mess; your chain clings to less dirt and sand; the chainrings and cogs stay clean. So far the only down side is missing the occasional chain ring tattoo on my calf.

Waxing is the cleanest option by far, and as for friction & longevity, nothing tests better.

[JStonebarger]

To and from CX Nats this year we took four bikes -- three with waxed drive trains and one still with oil. With only a two-bike rack, a couple bikes traveled in the car. Guess which one always had a spot on the hitch rack?