How Long (Will This Keep Going On)?

[marsh]

I love this dang bike (Schwinn Peloton) and I want to keep riding it for as long as it's rideable.
Columbus SL main tubes, Superbe Pro dropouts, fits 28's with plenty of room to spare. Full 600 Tricolor group, just picked up a new wheelset to replace the stolen set.
https://i.imgur.com/5F9fukKl.jpg
It came to me already well thrashed: terrible paint, included Mavic threaded bottom bracket installed and bb chamfered for it, since the bb threads are pretty bad. I can live with all of that, but the real potential threat to it's long term availability is this gash on the seat tube, where a FD was apparently installed by The Hulk.
https://i.imgur.com/ytb2Pp1l.jpg
How worried should I be about this? Does it look like a risk for catastrophic failure? I want to try and get the frame powder coated and see if I could do something about the bb threads, but not if it could potentially fail soon. I've also recently passed on some screaming deals on potential replacement frames, maybe I should start looking down that road. What do you guys think?
Ace - How Long (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo_GMMLULXw)

[rccardr]

I would not be concerned-it's Columbus SL.

That frame will still be around long after you are gone.

[charliedid]

I think it looks like smooshy paint from here. If you don't have a reputable bike shop in Chicago to take a look, PM me.

[William]

I picked up a Peloton and made it into a SS set up. The ride was really nice on those tubes. My son ended up liking it so much he left his Mtb home and took my Peloton off to school. Enjoy it, they are nice rides.





William

[Tony]

That could be mostly paint, even if its not I think its fine to ride.

Could be an easy repair. Use a tube block for your size tube. Roll out the tube, bondo, sand, match paint on seat tube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTDeXG0kweA

[AngryScientist]

i wouldnt be too concerned.

what i would probably do if you want to keep this thing long term is take that section down to bare metal, prime it and repaint it. if you mask it off well, you could easily make it look nice enough, maybe even with an accent color band there.

the concern is if moisture gets under that bubbled paint that is clearly not well adhered to the base metal, if that starts to happen, corrosion can start and may be well hidden until its bad.

should be an easy weekend task. get automotive grade paint and primer from the auto parts store.

other than that, make sure, if it hasnt already been prepped inside with frame saver or some other good corrosion inhibitor.

[marsh]

Thanks for the vote of confidence fellas. Going to strip the paint soon and get it repainted.

[bambam]

As for the BB.
(Cant see the pictures)

If its one of those BB for the starfish cranks. The one with the angled grinding.
I just got the BB removed and chased the threads and installed English or Italian (Can't remember) campy cups and it worked fine for my bike.

You loose few threads and there are plenty left to grab on to.

BamBam

[Dekonick]

i wouldnt be too concerned.

what i would probably do if you want to keep this thing long term is take that section down to bare metal, prime it and repaint it. if you mask it off well, you could easily make it look nice enough, maybe even with an accent color band there.

the concern is if moisture gets under that bubbled paint that is clearly not well adhered to the base metal, if that starts to happen, corrosion can start and may be well hidden until its bad.

should be an easy weekend task. get automotive grade paint and primer from the auto parts store.

other than that, make sure, if it hasnt already been prepped inside with frame saver or some other good corrosion inhibitor.

Like Angry said, remove the quill, BB, seat post. Go to Home Depot and buy a gallon of boiled linseed oil. Find a well ventilated area, or somewhere people won't go and you don't care if it smells like ***** for a week +/-. Buy or borrow a hone. Gently hone the inside of the tubes, NOT A LOT Don't let it get hot. Use hone oil. Do this until the inside rust is gone or at least until you have the big stuff 'knocked down'. Use compressed air and blow the tubes clean. Repeat once or twice - be careful of bottle bosses, nut inserts, etc... and especially threading on the BB. Just get as much flaky crap off and out of the tubes.

Once you have the prep done, tape off or use rubber bands, etc... to block drain holes (in the stays, BB, etc...) Start by pouring linseed oil in the stays. Slosh it around. Turn the bike up, down, on it's side, other side, etc... Let excess 'pour/drain' out (try to collect it - use a trash can lid upside down, etc...) Do the same for each tube. What you want to do is coat every part of the inside of the tubes. Once done, let it drain. This can take days. If you have time, and don't care, repeat the linseed treatment again. Let it all dry until it is barely tacky. Whatever you do make sure you protect the BB threads, and keep it off of the paint - It is a bitch to get off once it cures.

You can also spend a little and save some effort and use frame saver or similar - It is basically the same thing as linseed oil in a compressed can with a straw. I frame save my bike frames every few years. I have done the linseed oil deal on steel that I use outside, and a few older frames I had, before frame saver was readily available. Both work. I like the linseed oil if you have a lot of tube to coat or it is heavily corroded as it is less expensive on a larger scale... you can even use a compressed air sprayer, but plan on needing a new spray head if you don't clean it immediately after... and wear protection (respiratory, eye, gloves...) as it is nasty.

Ill post a pic of 2 hones I have at home that I use with a standard drill. Note, I am showing them with a titanium frame - obviously one would NEVER hone a Ti frame... but it was close by so I could show you and give an idea of a proper hone size. You will need to special order them or go online... Not common tool items found in hardware stores or even auto repair stores. Pics to follow.

Also useful are small wire brushes on long flexible shafts to get far into stays, top tube and down tube. Just make sure to protect whatever surface the shafts touch before you spin the brush. Normally this would be the BB shell. You can also use those nice flexible camera's to look inside to see how your progress is going. Far easier than mirrors of the past... that was a PITA...

Best of luck! I know the above is probably crazy, but it does work if you have a rusty frame or rusty tube.

ONE MORE WARNING - be extremely careful spinning anything inside near bosses/ nut inserts/ internal cable guides. These aren't rifle barrels... You DO NOT want to get any cloth/ steel wool/ hone/ whatever caught inside the tube or worse... If you are going to re-paint, you can remove them first, then hone / clean inside, and re-install or have the painter do it...

Hopefully something is helpful...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Ze-dPBjFqrPeCLUHSyLIj2gkhJQlpil/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HhaC2B60e6CQAq9z-QE5tt42TIkUalAn/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17Zu518JQsNcUOCmXQA6Gx2WCOhfVUT7T/view?usp=sharing

[Dekonick]

As for the BB.
(Cant see the pictures)

If its one of those BB for the starfish cranks. The one with the angled grinding.
I just got the BB removed and chased the threads and installed English or Italian (Can't remember) campy cups and it worked fine for my bike.

You loose few threads and there are plenty left to grab on to.

BamBam

I haven't done it on a frame but I have heard you can use JB weld before you chase new threads with good results. I know it works for typical items if you strip the threads and need to re-chase. Clean it out, fill threads with JB, let it set... re-chase...

Anyone done it on a bike frame?

[Tony]

Like Angry said, remove the quill, BB, seat post. Go to Home Depot and buy a gallon of boiled linseed oil. Find a well ventilated area, or somewhere people won't go and you don't care if it smells like ***** for a week +/-. Buy or borrow a hone. Gently hone the inside of the tubes, NOT A LOT Don't let it get hot. Use hone oil. Do this until the inside rust is gone or at least until you have the big stuff 'knocked down'. Use compressed air and blow the tubes clean. Repeat once or twice - be careful of bottle bosses, nut inserts, etc... and especially threading on the BB. Just get as much flaky crap off and out of the tubes.

Once you have the prep done, tape off or use rubber bands, etc... to block drain holes (in the stays, BB, etc...) Start by pouring linseed oil in the stays. Slosh it around. Turn the bike up, down, on it's side, other side, etc... Let excess 'pour/drain' out (try to collect it - use a trash can lid upside down, etc...) Do the same for each tube. What you want to do is coat every part of the inside of the tubes. Once done, let it drain. This can take days. If you have time, and don't care, repeat the linseed treatment again. Let it all dry until it is barely tacky. Whatever you do make sure you protect the BB threads, and keep it off of the paint - It is a bitch to get off once it cures.

You can also spend a little and save some effort and use frame saver or similar - It is basically the same thing as linseed oil in a compressed can with a straw. I frame save my bike frames every few years. I have done the linseed oil deal on steel that I use outside, and a few older frames I had, before frame saver was readily available. Both work. I like the linseed oil if you have a lot of tube to coat or it is heavily corroded as it is less expensive on a larger scale... you can even use a compressed air sprayer, but plan on needing a new spray head if you don't clean it immediately after... and wear protection (respiratory, eye, gloves...) as it is nasty.

Ill post a pic of 2 hones I have at home that I use with a standard drill. Note, I am showing them with a titanium frame - obviously one would NEVER hone a Ti frame... but it was close by so I could show you and give an idea of a proper hone size. You will need to special order them or go online... Not common tool items found in hardware stores or even auto repair stores. Pics to follow.

Also useful are small wire brushes on long flexible shafts to get far into stays, top tube and down tube. Just make sure to protect whatever surface the shafts touch before you spin the brush. Normally this would be the BB shell. You can also use those nice flexible camera's to look inside to see how your progress is going. Far easier than mirrors of the past... that was a PITA...

Best of luck! I know the above is probably crazy, but it does work if you have a rusty frame or rusty tube.

ONE MORE WARNING - be extremely careful spinning anything inside near bosses/ nut inserts/ internal cable guides. These aren't rifle barrels... You DO NOT want to get any cloth/ steel wool/ hone/ whatever caught inside the tube or worse... If you are going to re-paint, you can remove them first, then hone / clean inside, and re-install or have the painter do it...

Hopefully something is helpful...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Ze-dPBjFqrPeCLUHSyLIj2gkhJQlpil/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HhaC2B60e6CQAq9z-QE5tt42TIkUalAn/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17Zu518JQsNcUOCmXQA6Gx2WCOhfVUT7T/view?usp=sharing

Mildew loves linseed oil! I found this out building skin on frame kayaks. I would avoid it as a rust preventive.

[R3awak3n]

yeah I would hit the inside with JP Weigle frame saver

[mt2u77]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=wAVl_IJV5eI

Leading to: Eric Clapton, How Long Blues
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dO4Gt9hRjbA

Leading to: Buddy Guy, Five Long Years
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n_4UmAY852I

So there’s your answer— 5 long years, (til she kicks you out). Buddy said so. [emoji846]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dekonick]

Mildew loves linseed oil! I found this out building skin on frame kayaks. I would avoid it as a rust preventive.

Boiled linseed oil? I have been using it for years with no issue. Linseed oil and boiled linseed oil are not the same thing... I did forget to point that out. JP weigle's frame saver is basically boiled linseed oil with a few additives.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=145

[Dekonick]

Mildew loves linseed oil! I found this out building skin on frame kayaks. I would avoid it as a rust preventive.

Good to know - please follow up with what kind of linseed oil you use. Like I was saying, today I use commercial spray can protection in my frames every few years... but for anything I put outside for 'whatever' I use linseed oil. Never had an issue, cheap and it works. For wooden stuff, brush on regular linseed oil... I get it... I have never make kayaks so I can't comment there. It sounds interesting! Pics?!?

[Dekonick]

Mildew loves linseed oil! I found this out building skin on frame kayaks. I would avoid it as a rust preventive.

This made me do a little research. I have found on some wood working sites and forums mention of this, but with regular linseed oil.

The mil spec for rust proofing light weight steel tubes in aircraft was to use linseed oil - This is an older manual... https://books.google.com/books?id=JNMuOSi7liYC&pg=PA15-IA7&lpg=PA15-IA7&dq=linseed+oil+aircraft+tubes&source=bl&ots=ssgM61A0Gy&sig=IBnebVGw_81pUtaBW-hQCUCs2Zs&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjT-K2jmvveAhUJ0FkKHRm4AsQQ6AEwE3oECAAQAQ#v=onepage&q=linseed%20oil%20aircraft%20tubes&f=false

Lots of people use linseed oil to rustproof the underside of their cars, etc...

anyway, learning more than I cared to know about the uses of linseed oil... who knew?

[72gmc]

Nice work titling this thread in a way that puts the 70s soft rock song in my head. Apparently there's a Gershwin tune from way back with the same name ... maybe I should try to switch my mental soundtrack.

[XXtwindad]

Nice work titling this thread in a way that puts the 70s soft rock song in my head. Apparently there's a Gershwin tune from way back with the same name ... maybe I should try to switch my mental soundtrack.

Hey 72 -

Beat me to it. Your friends with all their fancy persuasion can't admit that they're part of a scene ...