swapping bar end shifters for paddles

[danesgod]

Hey all, thinking about switching my bar end shifters on my Jamis Aurora Elite (2012) for paddle shifters. I understand why bar ends would be better for long tours, but I really use this bike for commuting, pulling my baby trailer, and rainy days, all times where I wish I could keep my hands on the brakes.

I'm relatively new to working on shifters / drivetrains (rode BMX forever, only road and MTB for ~3-4 years, I did rebuild one drivetrain on my first MTB), so I actually don't know which parts I must swap out and which I can reuse. The drivetrain is still stock parts:


Shimano 105 front & rear derailleurs
Shimano Dura-Ace bar-end shifters
Shimano R563 2-pc crankset
50/39/30 with Shimano extrernal BB
Shimano 12-30 cassette


In my head I only need new paddle shifters (and cables probably), but I have limited experience. Can anyone point to the right shifters I need, I think its these (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-105-5703-triple-sti-shifter-set/rp-prod50465?gs=1&sku=sku179261&pgrid=54137515364&ptaid=pla-422159868173&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|solPPtctf_dc|pcrid|253659801802| pkw||pmt||prd|179261US) ::looks around confused::?

[jtakeda]

Yes that’s correct. You’ll probably need new shift cables and possibly housing.

The word “paddle shifters” is a little confusing FYI. Most people call them sti shifters or shift levers.

[pdonk]

Those shifters are for a triple, you'll likely just need a double, depending on number of chainrings.

I'd consider some the used higher end parts in the classifieds.

[jtakeda]

Those shifters are for a triple, you'll likely just need a double, depending on number of chainrings.

I'd consider some the used higher end parts in the classifieds.

50/39/30 refers to chainrings though right? I think he has the right shifters here

[shortwaveradio]

Those shifters are for a triple, you'll likely just need a double, depending on number of chainrings.

I'd consider some the used higher end parts in the classifieds.

I'll second that motion. For what those shifters that you linked are listed for, you could probably do much better on Ebay if not here.

[danesgod]

Didn't know about paddles vs STI. Now I do. Thanks.

Yea, its got three up front.

I'm also too new to post in the classifieds section :( What would be ideal, nicer shifters for my bike?

[danesgod]

Something like these dura ace (https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA-ACE-7800-ST-7803-TRIPLE-3x10-speed-STI-SHIFTERS-BRAKE-LEVERS/332594236806?epid=0&hash=item4d70294d86:g:YB4AAOSwJQtasoBs), I assume, would be "higher end?"

[Ken Robb]

You might like getting some "Thumbies" to move your barends next to your present brake levers.

[jtakeda]

Something like these dura ace (https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA-ACE-7800-ST-7803-TRIPLE-3x10-speed-STI-SHIFTERS-BRAKE-LEVERS/332594236806?epid=0&hash=item4d70294d86:g:YB4AAOSwJQtasoBs), I assume, would be "higher end?"

Those dura ace shifters are “higher end” but for your intended use of commute/rain/ kid hauler id stick with the 105.

Keep an eye on the classifieds for a better price than the ones you linked above

[jtakeda]

You might like getting some "Thumbies" to move your barends next to your present brake levers.

Do thumbies work well on drop bars?

[jr59]

On that bike, why not keep your brake levers and go to down tube shifters?

Not even sure you would need a new crank or front derailuer

[jr59]

On that bike, why not keep your brake levers and go to down tube shifters?

Not even sure you would need a new crank or front derailuer

All bets are off without the shifter bosses.

[Bradford]

The quick answer is that any 10 speed triple Shimano shifters will work just fine.

Once you get past calling them shifters, or if you want to infuriate the Paceline Illuminati, brifters, you can start using the model numbers. That makes it easier to converse with people here.

I have 10 speed Dura Ace on one bike, 7803, 10 speed Ultegra on 2 bikes, 6603, and bar ends on a third. I have 10 speed 105 on my tandem but I've not sure what the model number.

I'm cheap and not picky, so when I built two new frames up last year, I used 6303 Ultegra shifters that bought on ebay. Both were in great shape and I payed about $110 for each pair. I also prefer exposed cables to hidden cables, so the 6603 generation is perfect for my needs.

The 105 came new with the tandem and I they have worked flawlessly. You don't need Dura Ace (7803), especially for a commuter. There is no performance difference between my 7803 and 6603 shifters. Their may be a weight difference, but I don't care about that.

So, buy new, buy used if good shape, it doesn't matter. If you buy used, do a search here on how to flush them with WD40 and re-lube and you will be good to go.

The rest of your set up should work fine. If it were me, I'd use new wires, new housing, and new bar tape. I buy my wires and housing in bulk and change when necessary, but if you don't just pick up a jagwire kit with all the stuff on Amazon and pick the color that floats your boat.

Good luck and enjoy the process. Post questions and pictures if you run into trouble and folks will help you out. And don't get rid of the bar ends, you may need them some day.

[Ken Robb]

Do thumbies work well on drop bars?

I guess that depends on the bars and where the rider likes to have his hands on the bars. When I've had barends on bikes with drop or moustache bars my hands have been close enough to brakes and shifters. Heck, when riding in the drops it's easier for me to shift barends with my pinkies while all other fingers keep gripping the bars than it is when I have to move a finger to swing a "paddle". I'm not sure how the OP wants to "handle" his BARS. :-)

[pdonk]

50/39/30 refers to chainrings though right? I think he has the right shifters here

OOPS Missed that part.

[Jaybee]

I guess that depends on the bars and where the rider likes to have his hands on the bars. When I've had barends on bikes with drop or moustache bars my hands have been close enough to brakes and shifters. Heck, when riding in the drops it's easier for me to shift barends with my pinkies while all other fingers keep gripping the bars than it is when I have to move a finger to swing a "paddle". I'm not sure how the OP wants to "handle" his BARS. :-)

I agree with all this. That said, it seems like OP wants to keep his hands on the brakes and shifters simultaneously, and STI, Gevenalle, or Kelly Takeoff are the only ways to accomplish that which I am aware of.

For this use case, I'd check ebay/local craigslist/these classifieds for 5603, 5703, 6703, 6603 series shifters (or 7803, is there a 7903?) depending on your tolerance for antennae sticking out of the hoods. New cables, bar tape, and done.

[danesgod]

Thanks Bradford. That makes things pretty clear. Part of my issue is really not knowing all the lingo/models around drive trains.

Seems like Ultegra could definitely be a good way to go. And doesn't look like its going to break the bank (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Ultegra-ST-6603-3-x-10spd-Triple-Brake-Levers-STI-Shifters-Brifters/192679064862?hash=item2cdc91351e:g:9PUAAOSwCgNbthu E). Similar to you, I don't care about weight on this bike, so 105s might be fine too. I'm often pulling a toddler or carrying groceries.

I guess that depends on the bars and where the rider likes to have his hands on the bars. When I've had barends on bikes with drop or moustache bars my hands have been close enough to brakes and shifters. Heck, when riding in the drops it's easier for me to shift barends with my pinkies while all other fingers keep gripping the bars than it is when I have to move a finger to swing a "paddle". I'm not sure how the OP wants to "handle" his BARS. :-)

On this bike, like 95% of the time I'm in the ramps/hoods. Because I'm in an upright position, I did consider going to a flat bar, but decided I still like the options provided by drops.

[danesgod]

Oh man, I actually really like the Gevenalle shifters. They look tough and unique too. Not sure I want to pay ~$200 though.

I am a bit confused though, once again showing my ignorance. Would I want the AUDAX friction shifter or the CX shifter? CX right? The bar end shifters are indexed? No? I barely know what indexed vs friction is. I had an old steel bike in college that was definitely friction...

Yep. I'm dumb. Thanks for all the help.

[danesgod]

Boom. ~50% off MSRP.

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=228310&highlight=gevenalle

Thoughts?

[Jaybee]

Boom. ~50% off MSRP.

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=228310&highlight=gevenalle

Thoughts?

Message the seller and ask him about compatibility directly. I think those are for Shimano mountain bike Dyna-Sys derailleurs - difference cable pull than your 105 road derailleur. If you want to keep the same derailleurs, you need the CX version (which will have indexing). The Audax version will work also, but it won't have the clicks for each gear.

[NHAero]

I did just what you are asking about at the beginning of April this year. My 1972 Bob Jackson was my only remaining bike with bar end shifters, and I found myself tapping the brake levers occasionally to shift, which seemed not to work that well! The bike was 3x9 with an older XTR rear derailleur (RD-M952). I switched to a 10 speed cassette and chain, and bought a slightly used set of 105 10 speed STI shifters (5703) on eBay for just under $90 shipped. I also replaced the older 9 speed front derailleur with a 10 speed 105 fd.

In any case, it works fine!

[danesgod]

Message the seller and ask him about compatibility directly. I think those are for Shimano mountain bike Dyna-Sys derailleurs - difference cable pull than your 105 road derailleur. If you want to keep the same derailleurs, you need the CX version (which will have indexing). The Audax version will work also, but it won't have the clicks for each gear.

Oh, yep. You're right. I got GX/CX confused.

[fogrider]

Do you need a triple for commuting?

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