Cinelli Criteriums compatible w/brifters?

[KJMUNC]

Is it possible to use Cinelli Criterium bars with brifters (even though I hate that term). To be exact, I'm looking to use the 65's with some 8spd Dura Ace shifters I have, but worried about whether or not their shape will put the shifters in the weird position since they were made back in the day of DT friction shifters.

I don't have the bars yet, so this is more of an exercise is feasibility. My guess is that since they come w/double grooves it was thought about and can be done, but I thought I might ask those more experienced than I on this one.

[11.4]

With Dura Ace it's a pretty mediocre fit. With Record it isn't something to write home about except at Halloween. The tips point way outboard, the reach from the drops is pretty horrendous unless the levers are far down the drops, etc. And because Campy shifters need to be tilted a bit so they stay roughly in line with the bars, the thumb shift lever is really raised up in a weird way. Single grooves were supplied for aero brake levers (brake only), and double grooves were implemented for a while in an attempt to prolong the life of the bars after combined levers came on the scene, but that was already the end of the line for 65's. (Remember that earlier 65's had a proprietary Cinelli 26.4 mm clamp diameter, then later ones had 26.0. If you use a 26.4, you'll have to deal with older Cinelli stems which frankly weren't anywhere near as good as almost any stem available today.) Nah, I wouldn't bother with it. If you're interested in a sloping bar like that, you can use a Nitto B125AA with Dura Ace shifters -- it's not perfect but much better than the 65's. You need a 25.4 stem clamp, but the Ritchey WCS mountain stem is identical to the road one but in 25.4 mm. If you are building with a quill stem, I'd recommend a Nitto Pearl with it, plus the Nitto proprietary shim to fit the 25.4 mm bars in the 26.0 stem. The shim can be a pain to install but works like a champ once it's in place.

[KJMUNC]

11.4 you truly are a font of knowledge on this stuff! Thanks for the info and advice. I already have a pair of Giro d'Italia's on my MX Leader so I'll just stick with those, as they're working pretty well for the time being. I had always heard 65's were the ultimate ride, but I'll save them for my next friction shifter build.

[obtuse]

it looks really stupid with modern ergo levers. they actually worked really well with the old pointy levers and actually aren't all that awful with d/a ten shifters.

see the pics of my c50 in the custom gallery for an example of the bars with d/a ten.


obtuse

[Ti Designs]

If you asked a dozen people about 65's, 3 would say they were the ultimate ride, 3 would say they suck and the other 6 wouldn't know what to say - it all depends on who you ask. I still use 'em because I can't find anything else I like as well. Crit bars have the forward slope to them, they were designed for wrist clearance while sprinting. When I teach the riders I coach how to sprint, the good ones always find they hit their wrists on the standard bend bars - it's how you know you're doing it right. A crit bar is just a shallow version of a track bar. Is that the right bar for you (this should have been the first question, not an afterthought)???

In any case, the Shimano levers work just fine if you have the bottom of the levers level with the bottom of the bars. If you like 'em higher than that you start running into the forward curve and the levers point outward. Older Campy levers worked OK, but don't overtightnen them or the body will crack - the curves don't match.

Lastly, in a modern, almost crit bend, there's the Modolo Curvisima. It's carbon, it's sexy, it's expensive - what more could you ask? Oh yeh, if you're looking for the ultimate table top flat position on top with Campy levers, it don't get no better...

[Grant McLean]

...In any case, the Shimano levers work just fine if you have the bottom of the levers level with the bottom of the bars...

I agree they work fine this way.
I've got 65's and Dura Ace 8sp sti levers on my Serotta CRL,
and used 7700 9sp ones on my Legend Ti.

I rode 65's exclusively from '81 to about '98. At the time, every other bar
just felt wrong. When I changed to Campy Ergo on my main ride in the
late 90's, I bit the bullet, and moved on to ITM bars, which I love now.

g

[KJMUNC]

Yep, I've always dealt with the wrist banging, even with Deda 215 deep drop bars, although its a lot less than it was before I swapped out my anatomic bars.

I may give the 65's a shot just to see if I can make them work. If not at least i know there's a decent resale market for it. :beer:

[saab2000]

Sadly, it is a huge compromise. The others are a better source of info on whether or not it works. I tried it and it doesn't really work for 10-speed Ergo.

Too bad, cuz the 65s are the most comfy bars ever.