Soliciting General Build Advice for Breakaway/Coupled Travel Bike

[brewsmith]

I managed to score a steel breakaway in my size locally and am currently in the planning stages for the build. As such, I wanted to solicit some advice from folks who have traveled a bit to get a feel for how to optimize the build for ease of travel. I'd be using this for varied road rides and some city 'commuting' fwiw.

A few things I have thought about so far:

- Shifter type - STI v Bar End v DT. My frame is currently set up w. 9s 7700 STIs, and had downtube cable stops (no adjusters/not threaded). I have heard that DT shifters are the easiest, but that would require a clamp adapter etc. Are STI shifters going to be that much more of a hassle? Would Campy be a better bet with more indexing on the front? Thoughts on inline housing adjusters?

- Crankset - Compact v semi-compact v standard and what type of bb would you recommend for easiest service. Are people removing the cranks for packing?

- Fork steerer length - Currently has about 40mm extra height that I won't need. Is it worth cutting the fork down to minimize spacers, or just bring a few extra?

- What requisite tools and spares should I be thinking of outside the obvious like a hex set etc. Also, as I am thinking about components as a whole, are there any that folks recommend for simplicity (only use standard hex fittings vs. oversized hex or proprietary tools)?

I'm sure more will come to me as I stew on it, but that's a start. What else have I not considered? Thanks all!

[R3awak3n]

You should search my thread from a week or so agoa bout traveling with your bike (mine is SS but similar with breakaway). A ton of good info in there

[Bob Ross]

- Shifter type

You're not gonna wanna hear this, and I know it's probably not on the plate since you didn't even list it, but I just have to mention this, so apologies in advance:

wireless eTap is a gamechanger for a travel bike.


- Crankset

It more depends on frame size (and, I suppose to a lesser extent, crankarm length) than chainring size whether you'll have to pull the cranks...but if you do, I find Shimano the easiest by far. Just remember to bring that starfish-shaped tool to pull & reinstall the pre-load cap.

- Fork steerer length

(this pertains to the S&S 26"x26" case) Bear in mind that beyond a certain steerer length you won't have the luxury of turning the fork 90° or leaving it straight, and whichever way it has to be oriented in order to fit will determine the angles that the top tube and down tube lie in the case and that can impact how easily everything else fits in the case. So, within reason of course, shorter = better.

[RunningChoux]

I did some traveling with a 60cm Ritchey breakaway road frame this summer, and have some thoughts. Keep in mind I'm using it as a portable race bike, so my choices may not be the best option for you.


- Shifter type - STI v Bar End v DT. My frame is currently set up w. 9s 7700 STIs, and had downtube cable stops (no adjusters/not threaded). I have heard that DT shifters are the easiest, but that would require a clamp adapter etc. Are STI shifters going to be that much more of a hassle? Would Campy be a better bet with more indexing on the front? Thoughts on inline housing adjusters?

I'm using SRAM Rival shifting, so STI. If you're running cable splitters for the shift cables, make sure that you have enough adjustment range and/or obtainable slack to avoid loosening any cable fixing bolts. I did not, and one time dealing with resetting and adjusting was enough for me to buy inline adjusters for the downtube cable stops and recable.


- Crankset - Compact v semi-compact v standard and what type of bb would you recommend for easiest service. Are people removing the cranks for packing?

With my 60cm frame, I can't fit the bike in the case without pulling the cranks. This may not be a problem for you. For gearing, I'd use whatever you already know you get along with. I was racing crits and flat road races, so a standard SRAM GXP crank worked. If I was touring the Alps instead of racing in the flatlands, I'd have brought a subcompact 46/30.


- Fork steerer length - Currently has about 40mm extra height that I won't need. Is it worth cutting the fork down to minimize spacers, or just bring a few extra?

Again, with the large frame size, I cut it down as much as practical. I did need a small amount of spacers below the stem, so I'm using a locking spacer that ProblemSolvers sells so I can take the stem off without altering the headset preload. I'd rather deal with the stem bolts than trying to re-align and tighten my handlebars.


- What requisite tools and spares should I be thinking of outside the obvious like a hex set etc. Also, as I am thinking about components as a whole, are there any that folks recommend for simplicity (only use standard hex fittings vs. oversized hex or proprietary tools)?

I bring a compact torque wrench and spare cables. If you can arrange things to minimize the number of tools you need to assemble and disassemble, do it. I use an 8mm hex key instead of a pedal wrench, use the same bolt diameter for bottle cages/stem/headset cap, and so on. This may help you stay under airline weight limits, too.

[hokoman]

I've owned 2 different breakaways and here are my thoughts -


- Shifter type - STI v Bar End v DT. My frame is currently set up w. 9s 7700 STIs, and had downtube cable stops (no adjusters/not threaded). I have heard that DT shifters are the easiest, but that would require a clamp adapter etc. Are STI shifters going to be that much more of a hassle? Would Campy be a better bet with more indexing on the front? Thoughts on inline housing adjusters?

STI all day long. If 7700 us your thing, finding a group will be cheap. With the devinci or problem solver cable splitters, it's not bad.

- Crankset - Compact v semi-compact v standard and what type of bb would you recommend for easiest service. Are people removing the cranks for packing?

I remove my cranks for packing, modern shimano is pretty easy.

- Fork steerer length - Currently has about 40mm extra height that I won't need. Is it worth cutting the fork down to minimize spacers, or just bring a few extra?

Depends on your headtube length, but I don't think a longer steerer tube would really change the packing.

- What requisite tools and spares should I be thinking of outside the obvious like a hex set etc. Also, as I am thinking about components as a whole, are there any that folks recommend for simplicity (only use standard hex fittings vs. oversized hex or proprietary tools)?

Keep an extra collar ring for the downtube connection - I know Angry said his is corroding, I never had that problem though - but I did keep a set. I also pack my misc tools and parts into a bag of sorts, and then use packing saran wrap to attach it to something so there is no chance of it falling out.

I'm sure more will come to me as I stew on it, but that's a start. What else have I not considered? Thanks all!

I've been lucky as heck and gotten my bike (49 and 51) into a case and closed in 30 minutes... but I've also been about a hair away from throwing the bike and case out the window (1.5 hours). Keep the recommended packing instructions close or the youtube video on your phone! Don't forget a pump. If it's going into a soft case, I'll assume it is much easier to pack.

[Bob Ross]

I'm using a locking spacer that ProblemSolvers sells so I can take the stem off without altering the headset preload.

Ooh, I need to get me a couple of those!

[R3awak3n]

Question for you guys with the break aways that recently have used them. Have any of you had to pay oversize fees since the breakaway case is technically bigger than airline max size?

[boomforeal]

Question for you guys with the break aways that recently have used them. Have any of you had to pay oversize fees since the breakaway case is technically bigger than airline max size?

not once in maybe 10 flights. virtually all check-in staff will let a couple of inches or pounds slide (unless you act like an ass or they're having a really bad day, i imagine)

Again, with the large frame size, I cut it down as much as practical. I did need a small amount of spacers below the stem, so I'm using a locking spacer that ProblemSolvers sells so I can take the stem off without altering the headset preload. I'd rather deal with the stem bolts than trying to re-align and tighten my handlebars.


same, same and same. those locking headset spacers are gold

[AKTed]

I have a 56 Ti Cross Breakaway. Lots of good advice so far.

I remove the handlebar (with the stem attached) and the fork to pack it. With the drop in headset it’s really easy to do. And with the handlebar removed and the cable couplers detached there isn’t really any problem with STI. I have Campy 11s on mine. I don’t remove the crank. I’ve never had issues with shifting adjustment after packing/reassembly.

I recently bought a set of the Ritchey Zeta wheels. They allow toolless removal of the cassette, and makes packing the bike easier as the rear wheel takes up less space.

With a dozen or more trips I’ve never had an issue with the size of the Ritchey case.

I always pack the 4nm torque wrench and a spare clamp for the down tube. The only other tools needed for my bike are 4,5,6 and 8mm hex wrenches for the stem, seat tube, water bottle cages, pedals, etc.

[Alaska Mike]

I read (probably here) the suggestion of using small automotive split wiring loom on the big chainring to protect it and other items. Cheap, and it couldn't hurt.

I'm used to a full-sized plastic case for travel, and usually filled it to the brim with spare parts and all sorts of other stuff since I was going to be oversize/overweight anyway. Now, with a Break Away, my packing will be somewhat different.