View Full Version : wide range experts help
Luwabra
08-29-2018, 10:04 AM
ok follow me down this hole.....
components:
Suntour micro ratcheting circa 1970's friction shift
shimano mega9 xt rd
sunrace 11/42 cassette
wolftooth goatlink
wolftooth 42 or 40t chainring
1x10
i have a hilly 11,000' to 15000' 200 mi gravel ride coming up and want to convert my Black mtn monstercross into a 1x10 wide range for this...
ON PAPER should this work?
ColonelJLloyd
08-29-2018, 10:14 AM
40/42 low gear low enough?
Do you already have the 9s RD? Personally, I would just get a clutch RD intended for a large cog 1x setup and skip the Wolftooth compromise.
Something like a SRAM X9 or even a Shimano SLX or XT 11s RD (M700/M800).
AngryScientist
08-29-2018, 10:15 AM
40/42 low gear low enough?
Do you already have the 9s RD? Personally, I would just get a clutch RD intended for a large cog 1x setup and skip the Wolftooth compromise.
Something like a SRAM X9 or even a Shimano SLX or XT 11s RD (M700/M800).
i have wondered about this myself Colonel - how do you think a clutch RD would work with friction shifters? OK?
ColonelJLloyd
08-29-2018, 10:19 AM
i have wondered about this myself Colonel - how do you think a clutch RD would work with friction shifters? OK?
Can't say as I haven't done it, but with the Power Ratchets the OP is going to use my bet is it works great. It's gonna take a lot of throw as any normal barrel friction shifter will, but that's what you get. I wouldn't try and use something like a Simplex Retrofriction that has a very delicate friction setting. Never could find a sweet spot for any of the three pair I owned.
joosttx
08-29-2018, 10:26 AM
40/42 low gear low enough?
Do you already have the 9s RD? Personally, I would just get a clutch RD intended for a large cog 1x setup and skip the Wolftooth compromise.
Something like a SRAM X9 or even a Shimano SLX or XT 11s RD (M700/M800).
For 200 miles 10 to 15K feet of climbing is not crazy (the distance and climbing separately are). My rule is 1 mile to 100ft is getting into tough. I think a 40/42 is low enough for this ride because judging from the mileage and elevation gain there doesnt seem to be a lot of 12%+ sustained climbs. Correct me if I am wrong.
AngryScientist
08-29-2018, 10:44 AM
For 200 miles 10 to 15K feet of climbing is not crazy (the distance and climbing separately are). My rule is 1 mile to 100ft is getting into tough. I think a 40/42 is low enough for this ride because judging from the mileage and elevation gain there doesnt seem to be a lot of 12%+ sustained climbs. Correct me if I am wrong.
i dont know if you can make that generalization. while there may not be a lot of steep sustained climbs, a lower low-low sure comes in handy when you hit a short 20+ percent ramp at mile 175...
ColonelJLloyd
08-29-2018, 10:49 AM
For 200 miles 10 to 15K feet of climbing is not crazy (the distance and climbing separately are). My rule is 1 mile to 100ft is getting into tough. I think a 40/42 is low enough for this ride because judging from the mileage and elevation gain there doesnt seem to be a lot of 12%+ sustained climbs. Correct me if I am wrong.
No, no. I only typed that because many people don't readily think in "gears" and "gear inches" and what that really means to their own riding style and fitness. I just typed that to confirm the OP has thought it through and done the math.
Luwabra
08-29-2018, 11:10 AM
I don’t do math but I’m very good at suffer. The course from what I can tell is all power climbs so nothing sustained for more than a couple minutes I’ll attach the profile. I may have eliminated the 1x dilemma w the WI vbc in classified today. We will see.
joosttx
08-29-2018, 11:14 AM
i dont know if you can make that generalization. while there may not be a lot of steep sustained climbs, a lower low-low sure comes in handy when you hit a short 20+ percent ramp at mile 175...
I make those generalizations because the information is general. :)
If there are a ton of short steep climbs go lower.
Luwabra
08-29-2018, 01:21 PM
Here’s the profile steep short climbs
Gummee
08-29-2018, 03:22 PM
Here’s the profile steep short climbs
Ick! Better you than me!
M
Road Fan
08-29-2018, 03:38 PM
40/42 low gear low enough?
Do you already have the 9s RD? Personally, I would just get a clutch RD intended for a large cog 1x setup and skip the Wolftooth compromise.
Something like a SRAM X9 or even a Shimano SLX or XT 11s RD (M700/M800).
Ok, Colonel you are making me feel older than I am, but I do have some wide-range setup issues of my own. What is a clutch rear derailleur?
jtbadge
08-29-2018, 03:41 PM
I agree with above poster, get a 10 speed SRAM MTB clutch RD (ala X9) or Apex/Rival 1 RD and right hand 10 speed road shifter. Skip friction shifting 10 speed.
NHAero
08-29-2018, 04:07 PM
FWIW - I have a Shimano 6600 STI 10 speed shifter operating a Shimano XT RD-M772 rear derailleur (older style Shadow RD, non-clutch) on a Sunrace 11-40 cassette without a special link on my Litespeed Unicoi. It shifts pretty well, though not as well as when I first had it set up with a Dura Ace 10 speed barcon shifter.
David Tollefson
08-29-2018, 04:22 PM
Ok, Colonel you are making me feel older than I am, but I do have some wide-range setup issues of my own. What is a clutch rear derailleur?
The "clutch" RD increases the cage spring to maintain higher chain tension, thus reducing chain slap and helps keep the chain on the single chainring without needing a retention device (dummy FD or the like).
maslow
08-29-2018, 04:29 PM
i have wondered about this myself Colonel - how do you think a clutch RD would work with friction shifters? OK?
I have two bikes set up with Shimano shadow ‘clutch’ rear mechs along with Shimano Bar end shifters set to friction mode. One is 9 speed (heavy touring) the other set up 10 speed. Both have flawless shifting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
HTupolev
08-29-2018, 04:44 PM
What is a clutch rear derailleur?
Clutch rear derailleurs have a clutched friction plate on their tension spring.
The tension cage works more or less normally when it's rotating backwards to wrap chain (i.e. after the drivetrain has shifted onto a smaller cog), but there's friction acting against the tension cage when it's swinging forward to release chain (i.e. when the drivetrain shifts onto a bigger cog).
Because of the friction, very little chain get released when the bike hits bumps, so the chain doesn't bounce (and slap against the chainstay, and risk derailing) when riding on rough surfaces.
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