Ritchey Break Away Opinions?

[Alaska Mike]

I'm going to be starting a new career in a couple months that involves long stays at remote locations. I'll be flying into each site on small planes (think Cessna) and am limited in the size and weight of my baggage.

I would like to bring a bike and trainer along with me, but my usual bike case is too large and my usual trainer is far too heavy.

I think the STAC Zero (https://www.staczero.com/specs) is probably going to be my trainer, so hopefully that works.

For the bike, I was looking at a Ritchey Break Away steel road frameset (https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bike/frames/break-away-road-frameset) built up with whatever I have laying around in the parts pile.

Anyone have any experience with this frameset? How much flex does the coupler/split seatpost add? Would it hold up to repeated trainer sprint intervals?

I was considering just taking an existing ti bike I have and installing s&s couplers, but by the time I did that and bought the case I would be well on my way to another bike. If the Ritchey is worth a look, I can always make room for one more bike in the garage.

[weisan]

Anyone have any experience with this frameset? How much flex does the coupler/split seatpost add? Would it hold up to repeated trainer sprint intervals?

My custom steel bike incorporates the ritchey breakaway system.

zero flex.

sprint all you want....still zero flex. If flex, not due to coupling, something else.

only downside - rust develops around the coupling area if paint chip left unattended, other than that, no complaints. It works as intended.

[Alaska Mike]

I liked the steel after TSA has "customized" a couple of my aluminum and carbon bikes.

The point about galvanic corrosion is a good one, so I'll keep an eye on that. To be honest, this bike may never see the road, but sweat dripping down the downtube may be an issue if I'm not careful.

They've been around for a while, so I figured the knowledge base would be out there.

[Lanternrouge]

I have one. It basically just rides like a bike. I prefer others I have, but when riding while traveling, I am happy to be on the bike. I would recommend getting an S&S case to avoid airline fees.

[witcombusa]

Love my B/A Cross. It's been to CO several times and is a thousand times better than a rental when flying to good cycling locations. Plus I ride it a good deal @ home too... :banana:

[oldpotatoe]

I'm going to be starting a new career in a couple months that involves long stays at remote locations. I'll be flying into each site on small planes (think Cessna) and am limited in the size and weight of my baggage.

I would like to bring a bike and trainer along with me, but my usual bike case is too large and my usual trainer is far too heavy.

I think the STAC Zero (https://www.staczero.com/specs) is probably going to be my trainer, so hopefully that works.

For the bike, I was looking at a Ritchey Break Away steel road frameset (https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bike/frames/break-away-road-frameset) built up with whatever I have laying around in the parts pile.

Anyone have any experience with this frameset? How much flex does the coupler/split seatpost add? Would it hold up to repeated trainer sprint intervals?

I was considering just taking an existing ti bike I have and installing s&s couplers, but by the time I did that and bought the case I would be well on my way to another bike. If the Ritchey is worth a look, I can always make room for one more bike in the garage.

I sold a bunch of them when in the shop..they ride just like a bike..no compromises at all. A suggestion tho, buy an extra 'clamp' that is used on the down tube and keep that with your carryon...if you(or TSA bozos) lose that thing yer SOL. But great bike..make sure it fits you.

[Clancy]

Love mine, rides as nice as any steel bike I’ve ridden. Ritchey Logic tubing is sweet stuff. The couplers work beautifully, simple design. Never noticed any flexing.

Raleigh makes a Break Away, steel tubing, bike is less money than a Ritchey. If you’re only going to stick it on a trainer, worth a look. Same coupler system.

[Clancy]

My custom steel bike incorporates the ritchey breakaway system.

zero flex.

sprint all you want....still zero flex. If flex, not due to coupling, something else.

only downside - rust develops around the coupling area if paint chip left unattended, other than that, no complaints. It works as intended.

Curious, who built your custom steel using the Ritchey couplers.

My dream bike would be a custom steel frame w/ Ritchey couplers, 650B wheels, cantilevers.

[AngryScientist]

Ritchey system works, and it's definitely the cheaper way to get into a travel bike, over S&S couplers, unless you can find used.

for day to day riding, there is zero discernible difference with the couplers, bike rides just like it would without them there.

for actual frequent travel, and for actual execution of coupler system, i would pick S&S every day over the ritchey breakway system.

my ritchey is my main gravel rig, and sees a lot of craptastic weather and mucky conditions. the downtube clamps are regular steel and rust out pretty quickly under adverse conditions, and they are located in the spot that sees the most muck.

that said - ritchey makes a great bike and i love mine. someday i might even have Bilinkey replace that bottom flange junction with a single S&S coupler.

https://scontent-ort2-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/ff14694e2ebd54935f610e367fce513f/5C3687EE/t51.2885-15/e35/38042623_217700592255581_5230893596680388608_n.jpg

[Alaska Mike]

Thanks for the feedback and the suggestion to get an extra coupler.

How's the Break Away case as far as durability?

[Look585]

(snip)
that said - ritchey makes a great bike and i love mine. someday i might even have Bilinkey replace that bottom flange junction with a single S&S coupler.


Seems like this would be an ideal setup. Robust where it needs to be (DT junction) and convenient where it can be (TT junction). Are any custom builders offering this hybrid approach specifically?

[djm]

The Ritchey BreakAway system is elegant. It is lighter and simpler than S&S; no special tools or greases are required. You cant tell its a BA when riding and most people cant tell its a BA when looking at it.

buy an extra 'clamp' that is used on the down tube and keep that with your carryon

My BA came with an extra clamp from Ritchey.

How's the Break Away case as far as durability?

So far, so good, but it is fabric. Ive read that they do wear over time when used for airline travel.

[MerckxMad]

I bought the Raleigh version which uses the Ritchey frame and a steel fork. You can find them on sale with Campy groups and Alex wheelsets for cheap. The extra clamp is good idea. I bought mine to take with me on road trips in a convertible. Works really well.

[Ken Robb]

I rode a borrowed Breakaway once and thought it rode just like a nice steel bike. I think I remember that they are measured c-t so the one I borrowed was just a wee bit smaller than I would have preferred.

[zennmotion]

I've traveled with my steel BA cross for many years now (2006?) for countless trips abroad, mostly developing countries, and domestic vacations. Search for my several positive reviews. I would encourage getting the cross version to have the added potential for fatter tires, my canti brakes never let me down even in supersketch steep terrain, although just get Vbrakes if you can't deal with cantis. The Ritchey case is fairly robust, although mine has been repaired multiple times now (corners get badly frayed and some moron home contractor stepped on the empty case in my basement to use it as a step stool). The bubble on the side makes it MUCH easier to pack than an S&S case, although technically no longer within the dimension limits of standard checked bag since many airlines reduced the max size a few years ago, I've had a couple of discussions at the check in desk over the years but never been charged extra (maybe 30+ round trips with multiple airlines so far). The downtube connection can be protected by slipping a section of a road-size inner tube over the joint to keep the moisture and gunk out in wet conditions. I've not had an issue with it though, I keep the inside of the DT well protected with linseed oil (no grease or oil on the external collars though!). Keep your build simple- I use bar end shifters, 9 speed is "good enough" without the potential problems that closer gear ratios can present when out of adjustment. Wheels you can true easily, replaceable standard spokes, lower spoke count makes for easier packing. Lube that doesn't collect dirt (NFS for the win) It's a great bike, rides well on pavement, gravel, light singletrack. Get the BA Cross version. Don't do discs for travel, too much potential headache IMO when something gets knocked out of adjustment in the case, keep it simple.

[Ken Robb]

I don't know how a bike friday would work in a trainer but they ride well and fold into a standard Samsonite suitcase without disconnecting any cables.

[Alaska Mike]

After reading far too many threads here on travel bikes and the like, it also occurred to me that I have a Russian-built ti bike that I recently built up for sale.

It was my "TSA-proof" travel bike for a few years, traveling around the country in a clam-shell bike case. When at home, it was my foul weather and "shoulder season" bike. Since I'm in southcentral Alaska, that describes most of the road season.

The reason I was planning on selling it is that I now have two Moots, in addition to a handful of Madones and a couple other bikes. It wasn't getting ridden anymore and I felt guilty. I was planning on selling it off relatively cheap to someone who could use it- hopefully making a new/enthusiastic roadie.

It also had a more endurance geometry (tall headtube) and was a tad plush for my tastes (not excessively so, though). However, since any travel bike I get would be primarily used on a trainer (think Ice Station Zebra), low and aero really don't matter.

It's got "normal"-diameter round tubes, so nothing especially unique there. I would think it wouldn't be hard to retrofit, but I have no idea what the internal tube diameters are.

I looked at Bilenky Cycle Works, but after shipping the frame to them the price could run up to $1800 for the Ti Single Travel Package. Ouch, especially since I'm providing the frame. Any options in the PNW that people can recommend?

[weisan]

price could run up to $1800 for the Ti Single Travel Package. Ouch, especially since I'm providing the frame. Any options in the PNW that people can recommend?

alaska pal, I have gone down this path (research on retrofit) a couple of times, let me save you the trouble.

Yes, it's expensive.

Yes, it's a hassle coz you are without a bike for several months. In your case, not a big deal as you have other bikes.

Yes, you will probably find someone or someplace who will do it cheaper if you look hard enough. I have tried but I haven't found one maybe you will get lucky.

Cheaper by how much?

I would be really surprised if you can find anything that save you more than $200-300.

Is it worth it?

That's a question that only you can answer.

The thing about going to someone like Bilenky is you are paying for their "experience". They have probably done more retrofits than anyone else in the entire galaxy. They have even agreed to do retrofits on frames that come in odd shapes and others have turned down immediately. That shows the level of confidence and competency they have.

Is it worth that extra $200-300?

I think so.

The ONLY way to do this cheaper that I found is if you follow R3's footsteps and purchase something already built or retrofitted with the couplings, let someone else pay the upfront cost and you benefit from it later. I have done that twice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Croll-Road-Bike-Frame-And-Parts-57cm-S-S-Couplers-Dura-Ace-9sp-/312218679908?nordt=true&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l10137

[m_moses]

I have a titanium breakaway and use it on my trainer often. No problems at all.

[weisan]

Check this out:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=226936


It's almost too nice to leave it on the trainer for too long.

[Alaska Mike]

alaska pal, I have gone down this path (research on retrofit) a couple of times, let me save you the trouble...

The thing about going to someone like Bilenky is you are paying for their "experience". They have probably done more retrofits than anyone else in the entire galaxy. They have even agreed to do retrofits on frames that come in odd shapes and others have turned down immediately. That shows the level of confidence and competency they have.

Is it worth that extra $200-300?

I think so.
That's what I was thinking, but still... I'll have to save up a few more pennies and sell a kid or three. Transitioning careers has put a serious crimp on my fun money at the moment.


The ONLY way to do this cheaper that I found is if you follow R3's footsteps and purchase something already built or retrofitted with the couplings, let someone else pay the upfront cost and you benefit from it later. I have done that twice.
Unfortunately, I just haven't seen what I want. I can't see tying a classic bike down to a trainer, denting and scraping it to crap in a case. A lot of the coupled bikes are more touring oriented (nothing wrong with that), but they're usually heavier and not what I'm looking for. Size obviously is a big limiter as well.

I'll keep looking at my options.

[Alaska Mike]

Well, I ended up buying a used Ritchey Breakaway Cross Steel. It's a little beat up, but at least I don't have to stress about dinging the paint job. The trainer won't care if it's a 'cross bike and has mini-v brakes, and it will be more suited if I ever happen to be out at one of the sites during the summer. Not a lot of pavement on the Alaskan coast.

Thanks for the advice, which will come in handy as I learn how to best pack and unpack it.