Old SRM powermeter, crankset, complete set - any good?

[weisan]

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/IMG_8727.jpg

I picked up two boxes of SRM kit at my co-op this afternoon. It's clearly used and I am not sure if it's still functional. I have watched a couple of YouTubes and read up a bit about it. I just want to play with it and see how it works. Is it worth the trouble? And is there a quick way to check if it works without going through the full installation? My only other experience with powermeter is the older generation powertap.

[Avispa]

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/IMG_8727.jpg

I just want to play with it and see how it works. Is it worth the trouble? And is there a quick way to check if it works without going through the full installation? My only other experience with powermeter is the older generation powertap.



If you just want to have fun... it’s no real trouble... but yes you can see how it all works without doing a full bike install... you just need to make sure all cables are plugged in and connected and that the computer is charged.

My only concern on units this old is that the battery on the power meter (crankset) could be totally depleted. I don’t recall if on power meters this old the computer would tell you the charge level of the crankset battery...

I’d email the SRM service center with your questions. They take a few days to answer, but they are good at support.

[zzy]

They are great, especially on the track. However if the battery is dead you may have to send it back to SRM in Germany for a replacement and service. At least that was the case when I had the same on you have on the left some years ago.

[echappist]

They are great, especially on the track. However if the battery is dead you may have to send it back to SRM in Germany for a replacement and service. At least that was the case when I had the same on you have on the left some years ago.

no need; one can send it to Colorado these days

they are as bombproof as they come. The Dura Ace unit is likely a SRM PM 5 with PC 5 (Powermeter 5 with Powercontrol 5). Not sure about the other one. Back when I was on facebook, I subscribed to SRM's newsfeed. There are really old units (I think PM 4, IIRC) that are still fully functional

ETA: looks like the other one is also a PM 5. The powermeter with SRM-labeled crank could be a professional or the amateur version, with the former being quite accurate and the latter not nearly as accurate

[Clean39T]

They are great, especially on the track. However if the battery is dead you may have to send it back to SRM in Germany for a replacement and service. At least that was the case when I had the same on you have on the left some years ago.SRM does reconditioning in Colorado Springs, no?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[weisan]

thanks guys!

they are indeed PM 5.

I am gonna give em' a try.

[weisan]

All installed and wired up, now just waiting for the power control to charge up. How long does that usually take?

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/IMG_8729.jpg

[GonaSovereign]

They're totally worth your while. The one with the SRM crank is the amateur model (Pro has a beveled spider; not circular). It's annoying to have the batteries replaced, but once done they'll last for a long time.

[glepore]

Any/all of the batteries can give out, including the rechargeables in the pc. No biggie if you're good with a soldering iron, google is your friend.

[pdonk]

I only wish the bike "co-ops" in my City got anything half as good as this or things that Clean39 finds.

Rusted crap - lots of it, anything above department store bike - no.

[echappist]

All installed and wired up, now just waiting for the power control to charge up. How long does that usually take?

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/IMG_8729.jpg
that chain is wayyyyyyy too clean

the chain on my road bike (on the trainer 95% of the time) isn't even that clean

[weisan]

that chain is wayyyyyyy too clean

the chain on my road bike (on the trainer 95% of the time) isn't even that clean

Thank you. I just cleaned it right before taking the picture. :D

[weisan]

Any/all of the batteries can give out, including the rechargeables in the pc. No biggie if you're good with a soldering iron, google is your friend.

Looks like it may come to that. The PCV head unit has been plugged in for more than 6 hours now, it still won't turn on. Can't seem to find the required DIY YouTube video, any help would be appreciated. I have also contacted tech support at Colorado Springs, waiting to hear back.

[glepore]

In my car so I can’t cut and paste the URL but if you Google SRM head unit battery replacement One of the results is a blog post about how to do it to a power control for which should be the same procedure for a power control five


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[weisan]

Thank you Greg pal.

I just got a call back from Doug@SRM. I will keep everyone posted.

[Look585]

If you are handy with a soldering torch, you can do battery service yourself on older SRMs (newer wireless versions have better sealing and are harder to get back together and waterproofed).

For the head unit, these work well:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173275888049

For the crank, there are two flavours:
If you open things up (be careful, there are some delicate wires!!!) and find a rectangular battery, these are the correct replacement (usually 2, sometimes 1):
LTC-7PN-S4 (https://www.osibatteries.com/p-18005-eve-replacement-for-eagle-picher-keeper-ltc-7pn-s4-battery-lithium.aspx)

If the battery is round (always 1 in my experience) the unit is older, these are the replacement.
QTC85 3B880 (https://www.batterystore.com/electrochem/wafer-qtc85-3b6880-pc-pins-high-rate-3-6v-1000mah-electrochem/)

I have a couple spares of the round batteries, happy to send one your way if you need it.

[weisan]

585 pal, THANK YOU!!!

[ergott]

Yes, but since the service life of these aren't known I would highly recommend sending out for battery since they will recalibrate them too.

[weisan]

Roger that ergott pal, thanks for chiming in.

[echappist]

Thank you. I just cleaned it right before taking the picture. :D

how do you clean your chain?

[weisan]

In my car so I can’t cut and paste the URL but if you Google SRM head unit battery replacement One of the results is a blog post about how to do it to a power control for which should be the same procedure for a power control five


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://tuney.blogspot.com/2009/07/srm-head-unit-iv-battery-replacement.html

[ergott]

I don't see a reason not to try DIY for the head unit.

[weisan]

how do you clean your chain?

you really don't want to know...I don't follow protocol.

spray wd40 onto chain as it rotate on cassette
grasp chain with blue shop towel at down side below chainstay as you rotate
turn over paper tower and change side constantly
until almost no dirty chain marks
you are done.

[weisan]

I don't see a reason not to try DIY for the head unit.

It came with three units. One of the screens already broke so I am going to use that as an experiment.

[weisan]

For the crank, there are two flavours:
If you open things up (be careful, there are some delicate wires!!!) and find a rectangular battery, these are the correct replacement (usually 2, sometimes 1):
LTC-7PN-S4 (https://www.osibatteries.com/p-18005-eve-replacement-for-eagle-picher-keeper-ltc-7pn-s4-battery-lithium.aspx)



http://www.thetallcyclist.com/2012/11/srm-dura-ace-battery-replacement-at-home-made-easy/

If the battery is round (always 1 in my experience) the unit is older, these are the replacement.
QTC85 3B880 (https://www.batterystore.com/electrochem/wafer-qtc85-3b6880-pc-pins-high-rate-3-6v-1000mah-electrochem/)


https://www.bikehub.co.za/topic/170261-srm-battery-replacement/

[Look585]

Yes, but since the service life of these aren't known I would highly recommend sending out for battery since they will recalibrate them too.

Definitely do a calibration!

SRM charges ~$120 for crank battery service and calibration. Plus figure ~$30 in round trip shipping.

If you want to do it on the cheap, buy a 20kg gym weight off of craigslist, stop at the post office / fedex / ups and get it weighed (to the gram). Then do the battery service and calibrate yourself. I can send you a spreadsheet with the process, or you can go HERE (https://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/PowerMeterCalibration.aspx).

[weisan]

Definitely do a calibration!

SRM charges ~$120 for crank battery service and calibration. Plus figure ~$30 in round trip shipping.

If you want to do it on the cheap, buy a 20kg gym weight off of craigslist, stop at the post office / fedex / ups and get it weighed (to the gram). Then do the battery service and calibrate yourself. I can send you a spreadsheet with the process, or you can go HERE (https://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/PowerMeterCalibration.aspx).

thanks again 585 pal. I have "calibrated" my powertap using similar method so I am somewhat familiar with it.

To be honest, and I hate to say this, I am really still in the "play with it just for fun" mode. I am not even on strava, that should probably tell you how much I care about the accuracy.

[oldpotatoe]

you really don't want to know...I don't follow protocol.

spray wd40 onto chain as it rotate on cassette
grasp chain with blue shop towel at down side below chainstay as you rotate
turn over paper tower and change side constantly
until almost no dirty chain marks
you are done.

WD-40 is a solvent..you are done taking any lube out of a chain.

[jpritchet74]

Wired PM's are awesome and work great. Battery changes and calibration are both easy to do.

[echappist]

you really don't want to know...I don't follow protocol.

spray wd40 onto chain as it rotate on cassette
grasp chain with blue shop towel at down side below chainstay as you rotate
turn over paper tower and change side constantly
until almost no dirty chain marks
you are done.

and what do you do with the dirty blue rag after you are done with it? how many uses before you toss it?

WD-40 is a solvent..you are done taking any lube out of a chain.
presumably he applies lube to the chain afterwards?

[weisan]

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/IMG_8830.jpg

[weisan]

The second the battery got soldered on, numbers began to pop on the screen.
Pretty amazing.
And a relief coz' I have no idea what I am doing.

[weisan]

Testing completed.

All systems go.

Cadence - checked
Power - checked
Speed - checked

How do you turn this thing off?

[jpritchet74]

the screen you have is the "sleep" screen - if the screen goes blank that means that you need to get it on the charger before it fully discharges the battery.

WELL DONE!

[weisan]

Thank you 74 pal!

[weisan]

If you are handy with a soldering torch, you can do battery service yourself on older SRMs (newer wireless versions have better sealing and are harder to get back together and waterproofed).

For the head unit, these work well:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173275888049

For the crank, there are two flavours:
If you open things up (be careful, there are some delicate wires!!!) and find a rectangular battery, these are the correct replacement (usually 2, sometimes 1):
LTC-7PN-S4 (https://www.osibatteries.com/p-18005-eve-replacement-for-eagle-picher-keeper-ltc-7pn-s4-battery-lithium.aspx)

If the battery is round (always 1 in my experience) the unit is older, these are the replacement.
QTC85 3B880 (https://www.batterystore.com/electrochem/wafer-qtc85-3b6880-pc-pins-high-rate-3-6v-1000mah-electrochem/)

I have a couple spares of the round batteries, happy to send one your way if you need it.

Look pal, I want to thank you personally for directing me to the battery vendor on eBay. Those batteries worked out great!

[weisan]

29-30 hours of battery life??

Pretty impressive.

[weisan]

Field-tested it today. Didn't go very far because of a mechanical issue with the bike. The powermeter however did quite alright except the speed is way too high - in the 70-90s when I was probably going at 15 mph. I understand that it might be reading in km/h but still that number is too high. I checked the sensor on the fork and the magnet and everything seems ok.

[oldpotatoe]

and what do you do with the dirty blue rag after you are done with it? how many uses before you toss it?


presumably he applies lube to the chain afterwards?
until almost no dirty chain marks
you are done.

don't think so but his chain..maybe he likes the 'little bird in my pocket' noise?
Field-tested it today. Didn't go very far because of a mechanical issue with the bike.

chain needed lube?:)

[BdaGhisallo]

Field-tested it today. Didn't go very far because of a mechanical issue with the bike. The powermeter however did quite alright except the speed is way too high - in the 70-90s when I was probably going at 15 mph. I understand that it might be reading in km/h but still that number is too high. I checked the sensor on the fork and the magnet and everything seems ok.

Have you entered the correct wheel circumference in the PC7? If your number is too high you will get some crazy high speed numbers.

[skouri1]

Nice work. Curious to hear about how the bugs are worked out.
The SRAM service hurts...but i might be too afraid to go solo if I had actually paid retail for the cranks.

[weisan]

Have you entered the correct wheel circumference in the PC7? If your number is too high you will get some crazy high speed numbers.

I think that's it! thank you for the tip. I haven't connect it to the PC yet. Is that something that I can adjust directly on the control module itself?

[weisan]

Nice work. Curious to hear about how the bugs are worked out.
The SRAM service hurts...but i might be too afraid to go solo if I had actually paid retail for the cranks.

I found the old receipts in the box. The previous owner paid "$2,350"

gulp!

:eek:

[Look585]

Connecting to SRMWin makes the headunit settings easier, but you can do almost everything directly on the PC5. Here are the basics:

Press all three buttons at once (Mode+Set+Pro) to enter the settings mode.
First page sets the Time and Date. (Pro/Set make changes, Mode moves to the next number)
Second Page sets Tire Size (flashing U, 2095 is a standard 700x23 tire), and Power meter "slope" (flashing S, should be printed on the back of the spider)

Press Mode+Set to enter zero offset mode.

Press Mode+Pro to change data storage frequency (0_5 to 5 seconds, bottom right number) (top number is the #hours of storage you get for a given storage frequency)

[weisan]

Thank you Look pal!

Yup, the wheel size was set to some ridiculous dimension 2933, adjusted to 2095.

The PC usb cable that came with it is broken at the connection (black) to the control. Both of them!

It's not detecting while I run SRMWIN. So, I think I have to revert to changing settings directly on PC5. How do I switch imperial to metric?

[weisan]

So I think I managed to reset the wheel diameter to the correct dimension and it's actually already set to metric so I think I am good to go....except both PC download cables are toasted, both at the rubber ends so no software analysis for me, it's real-time feedback only which is fine.

[drewskey]

Great thread for sure. This is one of those knowledge dump threads that Google will find for people years from now.

[BdaGhisallo]

So I think I managed to reset the wheel diameter to the correct dimension and it's actually already set to metric so I think I am good to go....except both PC download cables are toasted, both at the rubber ends so no software analysis for me, it's real-time feedback only which is fine.

I have a download cable I can send you if you'd like. I have no need for it.

PM me your mailing address.

I think it will work for the PCV. Just check your plug. The one I have has holes for four pins.

Edit: Just had a look around and it seems the red cable I have is for the PCVI and won't work with the PCV.

[jpritchet74]

The original white SRM download cables don't work with Windows 8. There was a way to get it to work by resetting ports (or something like that) but if you used that USB slot for anything else then it wouldn't work again.

This cable works though - I suggest you get one of these. Real time data is nice, but the real purpose of the power meter is to accumulate data.

https://www.scientific-coaching.com/srm-parts-and-spares/download-and-online-cable-for-srm-pcv-p113.html#fndtn-product_info

[weisan]

Did a 40-miler today with the SRM, pretty much confirmed what I already know...I am not worthy. With what little wattage I am putting out, I am really not worthy of such an expensive piece of equipment on my bike.

Now, on to a question to folks who are familiar with SRM. Before that, many thanks to pritchet and Look585 pal for already giving me a lot of guidance.

So, my question has to do with heart rate. I was wearing my Garmin ANT+ chest band. It registered heart beat on my Garmin 800 but nothing came up on the SRM? What did I do wrong? Or is PC5 not ANT+ compatible? If not, can anyone recommend one that will work with PC5?

Thank you.

[Look585]

So, my question has to do with heart rate. I was wearing my Garmin ANT+ chest band. It registered heart beat on my Garmin 800 but nothing came up on the SRM? What did I do wrong? Or is PC5 not ANT+ compatible? If not, can anyone recommend one that will work with PC5?

Thank you.

Some PCVs use a coded Polar HR chipset, and others (older) use an uncoded chip.

Turn your PCV over and look at the serial number. If it has a "P" at the end, it definitely needs the Polar coded strap. If it has no "P" at the end, count the digits. 4-digit serial numbers are older and likely need uncoded. 5-digit serial numbers are newer and likely need coded.

Here is the coded version (Polar T31).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123326465177

If you need uncoded, any old HR strap will do (no Bluetooth or ANT+).

[weisan]

Look pal, I am much indebted to you, thank you pal!!

Mine are 4-digit, so uncoded I guess.

[jpritchet74]

For the PCV you need the Suunto Dual HR strap.

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/Suunto-Dual-Comfort-Belt-Color/dp/B002M28SU8

You can call up SRM in Colorado Springs though and confirm that. I am going off of memory with what I used with my PCV.

[weisan]

Both the cables are broken. I appreciate if any pal has one lying around and willing to give it up.

http://store_cdn.srm.de/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/900x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/4/9/49_0.jpg

I have contacted Colorado Springs several times, no response. First time I contacted them about the PC5 module, Doug returned my call but since then, no response.

[martl]

Did a 40-miler today with the SRM, pretty much confirmed what I already know...I am not worthy. With what little wattage I am putting out, I am really not worthy of such an expensive piece of equipment on my bike.

Heh, reminds me when i started using an SRM at the "Giro Dolomiti". After one of the mountain TTs, an older, skinny guy noticed the red box on my bike (still very exotic in ~2003), helped himself to a good look at my data, grinned, then reached into his jersey pocket and showed me his. He had about double my avg Wattage :D (i always had more ambition than talent).

Was this guy: https://www.renonews.it/unione-reno-lavino-samoggia/sasso-marconi/2013/04/14/la-storia-giuliano-anderlini-il-re-degli-scalatori/

and he was subsequently banned from many of those events even by the most tolerant organisers for using hGH and EPO...

[chiasticon]

Did a 40-miler today with the SRM, pretty much confirmed what I already know...I am not worthy. With what little wattage I am putting out, I am really not worthy of such an expensive piece of equipment on my bike.pretty much everyone's first reaction to using a power meter.

an older, skinny guy noticed the red box on my bike (still very exotic in ~2003), helped himself to a good look at my data, grinned, then reached into his jersey pocket and showed me his.what a douchbag move. :rolleyes:

[martl]

what a douchbag move. :rolleyes:

I didn't tink at that time he wanted to show off (He was the best in the field by miles, everyone knew that anyway) but was looking for some experience sharing, but stopped by the language barrier. The more humiliating encounter with him was in the race, always (Vespa vs. motorcycle :D)
Still a douchebag, ofc - see drug abuse at pro level for a tourist/amateur race etc.

[trener1]

I am still using my Wired SRM on my every day race bike, it's a great piece of equipment, especially at the price you git it for :)
Back to HR, the PCV isn't ant+ compatible, but like someone already mentioned the Polars will work with it.
The Suunto works with the PC6 but NOT with the PC5.

[weisan]

Just got an email notification from FedEx even though I don't remember ordering anything but when I opened it, guess what? It's from our friendly SRM folks at Colorado. Even though the description doesn't tell me what it is, my guess is a brand new data cable is on the way. I didn't even ask, they just went ahead and did it. Incredible service!

If any SRM pals are on here, please accept my thanks and gratitude.

[PSJoyce]

Yes, SRM Colorado Springs has incredibly good service. They've gone far above what I could expect.

[weisan]

Just got the new cable, tested the connection, all good now.

Thank you SRM!

[jpritchet74]

Awesome!

[ergott]

Really cool watching you breathe new life into these PMs!

[Alaska Mike]

So as of this moment, I have 4 SRMs. All wireless, all requiring a threaded bottom bracket, and all purchased secondhand. People dump the older models when the batteries get near end of life or they won’t work with a new bike, and I’m all too willing to take them off their hands.

A call or email to Colorado Springs let’s me know where I stand as far as service history goes, and I can get them serviced if I choose (I’ve done battery swaps). Other brand PMs I've owned that failed often only netted me an offer for a discount on a new model- “we don’t work on those anymore” or something along those lines. In today’s disposable world, a serviceable component is more important than the latest bells and whistles. I just want a reliable, accurate, and stable power meter, and SRM delivers that for me, every time.

I’ve owned PowerTap wheels, Stages, multiple Quarqs, and a couple others over the years. 95% of the time I am using a SRM, because they just plain work and the company backs their product.

[jpritchet74]

So as of this moment, I have 4 SRMs. All wireless, all requiring a threaded bottom bracket, and all purchased secondhand. People dump the older models when the batteries get near end of life or they won’t work with a new bike, and I’m all too willing to take them off their hands.

A call or email to Colorado Springs let’s me know where I stand as far as service history goes, and I can get them serviced if I choose (I’ve done battery swaps). Other brand PMs I've owned that failed often only netted me an offer for a discount on a new model- “we don’t work on those anymore” or something along those lines. In today’s disposable world, a serviceable component is more important than the latest bells and whistles. I just want a reliable, accurate, and stable power meter, and SRM delivers that for me, every time.

I’ve owned PowerTap wheels, Stages, multiple Quarqs, and a couple others over the years. 95% of the time I am using a SRM, because they just plain work and the company backs their product.

I am right there with you. I have 5 SRM's on my 5 bikes, but only 1 was purchased new - and that one I had built for me and I was able to pick it up directly from SRM in Colorado Springs when I had a business trip to Denver - I got a tour of the facility too which was really cool. I would never go anywhere else.

[echappist]

I am right there with you. I have 5 SRM's on my 5 bikes, but only 1 was purchased new - and that one I had built for me and I was able to pick it up directly from SRM in Colorado Springs when I had a business trip to Denver - I got a tour of the facility too which was really cool. I would never go anywhere else.

hear, hear

3 SRMs for three bikes (road bike, TT bike, and MTB). The first two were reconditioned units, and were relatively expensive ($1950 and $1650, respectively). The MTB unit was bought earlier this year new, for ~$1200. It hasn't always been trouble free, but SRM in general makes very reliable components.

[weisan]

Thanks everyone for your encouraging words.

I ran into a bit of a snag today with my second-time use of the SRM on a ride, could use a bit of help. Please bear with me here.

So I have installed two PC5 SRMs on two separate bikes. My first SRM is installed on my carbon bike - let's call it SRM (1) . The second one is just recently installed on my Ti bike - SRM (2).

SRM(1) has proven to work properly on the carbon bike. No issue there. But I have not ridden SRM (2) Ti bike since I installed the SRM. Although, I have verified that everything was working on PC5 on the bike stand before I secured all the cables - readings were registered for cadence, power when I reverse pedal and speed when I spin the front wheel. I left everything on the Ti bike after setup for a couple of days before I took it out for a ride today. This is the first time I have used the SRM on the Ti bike since I wired it up. On the road, the only thing registered was speed, nothing came up for power or cadence, they were zeros. That's contrary from the results I got while it was on the bike stand a few days ago. Granted, I did not test it again before I head out for the ride but it actually worked fine at one point during the initial setup, that I can confirm. So I got home after the ride and started troubleshooting by elimination.

Test 1: Check and verify PC5 working properly
- I brought it over to the other carbon bike with the first SRM that I installed earlier and verified that the unit was working fine. All the results were positive.

Test 2: Check the strain gauges on crankset installed on Ti bike to make sure it's working and talking to sensor. To verify this, I took another set of sensors, plugged it to PC5 , reverse pedal the crank and immediately cadence and power readings came on. So, that tells me the crankset strain gauges are working properly.

Test 3: Check the current sensors/cables to make sure there's no breakage or discontinuity I have another spare PC5, let's call it PC5 (2) . So I plugged my spare to the sensors currently attached to the Ti bike, reverse pedal and spin front wheel - speed, cadence, power - all registered!

Conclusion: PC5 (1) doesn't register cadence and power with current sensors. It does register speed. With PC5 (2) the spare unit, I was able to get all readings. That tells me there's nothing wrong with the cables/sensors. It's back to the PC5 (1). What is puzzling though, when used on the carbon bike, PC5 (1) registered all reading and supposedly was working fine. It's only when brought over to the second Ti bike, that it fails the cadence and power test.

At this point, I am at a lost.

Summary:
Ti bike + PC5 (1) = Yes Speed. No cadence. No power.
Ti bike + PC5 (2) spare unit = Yes Speed. Yes Cadence. Yes Power

Ti bike, using a different set of cable/sensors + PC5 (1) = Yes Speed. Yes Cadence. Yes Power!

What did I miss?

Oh btw, while testing PC5 (2), I found its Speed readings completely wrong, compared to PC5 (1). I mean, it was doing 16, 22, 55 some crazy numbers when the wheel is just spinning at 3-4 mph according to PC5 (1). But that's a different issue.

[Alaska Mike]

Caveat- I have never used a wired SRM, and only use my PC8 for testing. However-
-The lack of functionality with PC5 (1) may be a pairing issue, as in it is "married" to a specific power meter to avoid picking up nearby power meters. Similar to ANT+ pairing.

-The speed part could be just wheel diameter settings on the PC5.

Somebody here might have an old manual in print or pdf form that could guide you through the process of configuring things.

[weisan]

Mike pal, thanks for responding.

Interesting suggestion with the pairing. I didn't know that could be an issue with one PC5 shared between two different power meters installed on two separate bikes. Can anyone confirm that?

With regards to the wheel circumference and speed fault, I am pretty sure that has been set correctly. As soon as I spin the wheel, it will register a very high number and then just jump all over the place.

I am going to send this over to technical support and see what they have to say as well.

[BdaGhisallo]

Mike pal, thanks for responding.

Interesting suggestion with the pairing. I didn't know that could be an issue with one PC5 shared between two different power meters installed on two separate bikes. Can anyone confirm that?

With regards to the wheel circumference and speed fault, I am pretty sure that has been set correctly. As soon as I spin the wheel, it will register a very high number and then just jump all over the place.

I am going to send this over to technical support and see what they have to say as well.

I have a copy of the SRM users manual from 2007 that covers the PCV. If you pm me your email address I can send it to you.

Geoff

[weisan]

I have a copy of the SRM users manual from 2007 that covers the PCV. If you pm me your email address I can send it to you.

Geoff

Geoff pal, thanks for the offer. I actually have two copies of the manual and SRM have them on their site for PDF download as well. Thank you very much.

[weisan]

you know what, it's working again now. I just moved the sensor under the bottom bracket slightly "upwards" if that makes sense, and it picked up readings right away. I am just gonna walk away, not touch it anymore, sit back and just enjoy! :p

[weisan]

Downloaded the power file from today's group ride. I have absolutely no idea what it's saying but at least it's working. :p

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/power2.jpg

[martl]

So as of this moment, I have 4 SRMs. All wireless, all requiring a threaded bottom bracket, and all purchased secondhand. People dump the older models when the batteries get near end of life or they won’t work with a new bike, and I’m all too willing to take them off their hands.
good ob! Imo, even an ancient SRM outperforms modern PMs designed for consumers, as SRMs were always designed for the scientific sector and pro market.

[Alaska Mike]

good ob! Imo, even an ancient SRM outperforms modern PMs designed for consumers, as SRMs were always designed for the scientific sector and pro market.
As long as I can get good-performing bikes with threaded bottom brackets, I'm set with the models I have on hand.

I did buy one that had a failed ANT+ function (risk of buying on the used market), so I sent it in and they replaced it... and the batteries and the chainring bolts and did all the testing... for the same price as replacing the board. I mean, they certainly could have ala carted me for twice as much, but instead they serviced a 3 generation old power meter for a reasonable price.

They didn't try to sell me a new power meter. No mention at all. They seem to believe that the products they produced yesterday are worthy of being maintained. Weird.

At this point, I haven't used my Quarqs much except on the trainer and rare race days. I'm a little afraid I'll break them and be told they're only suitable as doorstops.

[martl]

As long as I can get good-performing bikes with threaded bottom brackets, I'm set with the models I have on hand.

I did buy one that had a failed ANT+ function (risk of buying on the used market), so I sent it in and they replaced it... and the batteries and the chainring bolts and did all the testing... for the same price as replacing the board. I mean, they certainly could have ala carted me for twice as much, but instead they serviced a 3 generation old power meter for a reasonable price.

They didn't try to sell me a new power meter. No mention at all. They seem to believe that the products they produced yesterday are worthy of being maintained. Weird.

At this point, I haven't used my Quarqs much except on the trainer and rare race days. I'm a little afraid I'll break them and be told they're only suitable as doorstops.
I find it a good measurement to tell quality brands from ordinary ones.
Mammut once sew new zippers on the legs of my zip-off outdoor trousers at no fee.
Zeiss measured and cleaned an ancient lens of mine for 0€
(Both were sent in years beyond warranty had expired and without proof of purchase etc)
Lupine sent a friend a new battery when the old one wasn't holding charge any more, and didn't want the old one back.
Rollei did a full function check and upgraded the camera-hardware to the latest revision for no fee for a buddy of mine's SL 3003

Will buy from those companies again!

[BdaGhisallo]

I find it a good measurement to tell quality brands from ordinary ones.
Mammut once sew new zippers on the legs of my zip-off outdoor trousers at no fee.
Zeiss measured and cleaned an ancient lens of mine for 0€
(Both were sent in years beyond warranty had expired and without proof of purchase etc)
Lupine sent a friend a new battery when the old one wasn't holding charge any more, and didn't want the old one back.
Rollei did a full function check and upgraded the camera-hardware to the latest revision for no fee for a buddy of mine's SL 3003

Will buy from those companies again!

I have been a user of various SRM powermeters since 1997 and I have never had anything but exceptional service and support from them, both from Germany and from the folks in CO.

[Blown Reek]

have 4 SRMs. All wireless, all requiring a threaded bottom bracket

How do they require a threaded bottom bracket?

[BdaGhisallo]

How do they require a threaded bottom bracket?

Octalink?

[Blown Reek]

Yeah, I guess if you're running Octalink you're going to need an Octalink bottom bracket, and those are threaded. However, I don't ever remember SRM using them.

But if you do have four Octalink SRM power meters, they require a threaded bottom bracket.

[BdaGhisallo]

Yeah, I guess if you're running Octalink you're going to need an Octalink bottom bracket, and those are threaded. However, I don't ever remember SRM using them.

But if you do have four Octalink SRM power meters, they require a threaded bottom bracket.

SRM made Octalink compatible arms when they were using their own arms that bolted on to the spider with three bolts - the Pro and Amateur models. The Pro had four strain gauges and the Amateur had two. They also made their arms to fit traditional square taper BB spindles.

When Dura Ace 7800 came along in 2004, they went back to their original method of modifying cranks to accept their spider rather than using their own design of cranks that were made only to mate up with their spiders. This was driven by the demands of the pro teams who wanted to use their SRMs but were getting pressure from component sponsors to use sponsor correct cranks.

[weisan]

SRM made Octalink compatible arms....They also made their arms to fit traditional square taper BB spindles.

When Dura Ace 7800 came along in 2004, they went back to their original method...

Ghisallo pal, thanks for the history lesson, that makes sense. The two boxes of SRMs that I brought back from the co-op came with the Octalink-compatible arms, square tapered and DA7800, I ended up with all three, which is very nice coz' I didn't have to modify any of the bottom brackets on my bikes to accept them, I just remove the old crankset and drop in the SRM's and I am done.

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/IMG_8727.jpg

[cderalow]

Downloaded the power file from today's group ride. I have absolutely no idea what it's saying but at least it's working. :p

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/power2.jpg

T = Time 4hr 13min 35sec
P = normalized or average power... not sure 126.3W
H = average heart rate, though you don't have a monitor
S = average speed 15.73mph
C = average cadence 63.6rpm
A = altitude (probably net gain), looks like it's not tracking any sort of sensor there
T (purple) = Temperature, average of 77.18°
D = distance 66.5mi
E = energy expenditure 1922kJ

[weisan]

thank you low pal.

Here's another one for today.

I even have the video to go with it.

https://vimeo.com/291421200

[Alaska Mike]

How do they require a threaded bottom bracket?
Clearance around the BB shell. Press-fit BBs and other, “oversized” BBs rub the plastic case inside the spider. A threaded external bearing BB, for instance a SRAM GXP or Shimano Hollowtech, is about all that will clear for my SRMs. I tried with a BB86 on my Storck Visioner (thin aluminum BB housing) and it wouldn’t spin. BB90s on my Madones either.

Fortunately, my favorite bikes these days all use external bearing BBs, so it’s not really an issue for me.

[Joxster]

I'm just back from a meeting with Miche UK & ITA, and they have partnered with SRM and will be making the cranks for them.. They will potentially be available first quarter next year (well we are dealing with Italians ;) ) and they are coming to the market agressively priced. They will be producing Road, then MTB and then Pista before they release the Carbon Supertype SRMs.

[Alaska Mike]

Just boxed up my S900 SRM to send back for service. It was giving a low battery indication, and I could have replaced them myself, but getting the batteries up here (hazmat shipping issues) can be expensive at times. I was considering buying a couple sets in advance to mitigate this, but I don't know what their shelf life is. Maybe next time...

Since I've never sent it in, I might as well get it checked out and have them do the work.

[weisan]

http://alicehui.com/bike/srm/srm_3.jpg