your most reliable hubset....

[AngryScientist]

as i've been riding more miles over the years i've been thinking about this, and as i'm about to build yet another set of wheels, i'm just wondering what the forum at large thinks are the most reliable road hubs:



- WI T11 hubs - seem great, but have what i would consider a hokey bearing adjustment system. teeny tiny set screws that are prone to get fouled with road grit. also, they dont seem to be sealed the best and dont do the greatest in foul, wet weather. i've killed the bearings in a set for sure.

-DT Swiss - initially my front runner for reliability and ease of maintenance. Love their 54t star ratchet conversion. what i dont love is the lack of bearing adjustability. you get a little bearing play - no way to dial it out other than change the bearings. , also - no color options :(

-campy - the old standard. phenomenal hubs. only 32h options now. bummer for this 130 pound rider....

-dura ace - these are likely the absolute front runner for reliable, light weight good hubs, but so quiet.....i like loud hubs. otherwise, about zero complaints with these....

-phil wood - dont know too much about the road hubs other than that they are crazy heavy.....

-i9 torch - know very little about these in the long term, but nice and buzzy and feel solid

-CK - yea, these are the hubs i keep coming back to. any bad long term reports?

[joosttx]

as i've been riding more miles over the years i've been thinking about this, and as i'm about to build yet another set of wheels, i'm just wondering what the forum at large thinks are the most reliable road hubs:



- WI T11 hubs - seem great, but have what i would consider a hokey bearing adjustment system. teeny tiny set screws that are prone to get fouled with road grit. also, they dont seem to be sealed the best and dont do the greatest in foul, wet weather. i've killed the bearings in a set for sure.

-DT Swiss - initially my front runner for reliability and ease of maintenance. Love their 54t star ratchet conversion. what i dont love is the lack of bearing adjustability. you get a little bearing play - no way to dial it out other than change the bearings. , also - no color options :(

-campy - the old standard. phenomenal hubs. only 32h options now. bummer for this 130 pound rider....

-dura ace - these are likely the absolute front runner for reliable, light weight good hubs, but so quiet.....i like loud hubs. otherwise, about zero complaints with these....

-phil wood - dont know too much about the road hubs other than that they are crazy heavy.....

-i9 torch - know very little about these in the long term, but nice and buzzy and feel solid

-CK - yea, these are the hubs i keep coming back to. any bad long term reports?

I have had experience with all products less CK and I9 I have owned for a short while.

The hub that given me the least trouble was the DT240. I probably put 10K if not more without issue.

My WI I seem to have to replace the bearings yearly and the play in them is annoying when they are not adjusted right.

I have not used the I9s that long but I really like the feel of them.

Duraace is my second favorite no issues.

Campy I had problems, warranty issue which required the whole hub to be rebuilt after 2 years (bora ultra 2).

Phil Wood are great but heavy I had limited experience with them and it was a very long time ago. But no issues.

[Ken Robb]

I have never had any problems with Record, Chorus, Ultegra, Dura Ace, XT hubs.

[jtbadge]

I’ve had great results with multiple sets of Ultegra and White Industries hubs. Sleeper option? Bitex. I’ve probably put the most miles on those and they have been practically invisible.

[weisan]

I built my wheels mostly with shimano hubs - dura ace, ultegra, 105, Tiagra,XT, LX. I get them used from my local co-op. So far, zero issue.

[beercan]

Most of my bikes have DT Swiss hubs, easy to swap free hubs even though they are proned to getting chewed up. Very little maintenance needed except for lubricating the star rachet. Comes in a wide array or spoke holes and black and white only but no big deal for me.

[saab2000]

DT-Swiss have been zero trouble. Same with White Industries. Mostly I don't have hub trouble but these stand out over the years. Never ever a complaint.

[likebikes]

uhh any of them? never had a problem with a hub, ever

[vqdriver]

DT
Bearing play? Really?

[bitpuddle]

These are all great hubs. Other than anomalous issues, I think you’d get good life from all of them.

- DT 240s are reliable and easy to service. I’ve never had any play develop in them. Generally ride them until a bearing wears out, replace it and continue. Very easy.

- CK hubs are impressive and lovely to ride, but the drive mechanism needs somewhat regular cleaning and lubrication. If you are OK doing that, should also last ages.

- Shimano hubs are lovely, and the sealing is such that they tend to have maintenance intervals similar to sealed bearings. Also, those are really nice quick releases.

- I only have experience with Phill track hubs, but very solid.

I’ve also had good luck with the last generation of Hed hubs, but I don’t think they are sold separately.

If you want to build something unusual, check out Alto’s hubs: https://altocycling.com/collections/road-hubs-rim-brake-and-disc-brake

[ChristianWong]

- WI T11 hubs - seem great, but have what i would consider a hokey bearing adjustment system. teeny tiny set screws that are prone to get fouled with road grit. also, they dont seem to be sealed the best and dont do the greatest in foul, wet weather. i've killed the bearings in a set for sure.

I have the same experience with T11s and CLDs - bearings need replacement sooner than expected (coming Shimano). Other than that, they are terrific hubs.

[Bob Ross]

I keep telling myself that as soon as my DT Swiss hubs crap the bed I'll look into some of these other brands, but I'm going on 8 and 9 years respectively with the two DT wheelsets I own, so something like 50k miles each (?) and they show no signs of giving up the ghost any time soon.

[ergott]

I haven't had a problem with my WI hubs. Anyone that has a bearing failure I blame the stock bearing. WI did have a change a while back. Since then I haven't had anyone tell me of a problem. I recommend anyone that has a problem with an older hub (or any bearing failing) use Phil Wood bearings as replacement. The spec of their seals are the best. As far as hub sealing, no hub has any built in sealing that works better than the bearings own seals. That's why I point to Phil bearings regardless.

I don't like current Shimano hubs because they have low engagement frequency and the flange specs are a major step back from what they used to be. I'd rather build Dura Ace to offset rim like DT or Pacenti Forza

I also like Industry 9 hubs. I haven't serviced them myself so can't comment on that.

Still think Alchemy's design makes for the best rim brake hub to date. Currently seeking new manufacturer, but still services current design if need be.

Never saw the attraction of DT. Their flanges are weaker than the best (seen broken flanges), the spacing is sub par, and the stock engagement is also not quick. They aren't cheap either. The 350 model addresses flange thickness and price. Play can happen since there is no adjustability. They rely on tolerances to be perfect so yes, if there is play they can't be fixed without replacing something.

[dustyrider]

DT Swiss.

[SlowPokePete]

I think I have three sets of King mtb hubs, 2 sets of road...many miles, no trouble.

New bike has I-9's with about a thousand miles on them, and I have no complaints.

Am I a bike snob if this is all I've had experience with in the last twenty years???

SPP

[saab2000]

Still think Alchemy's design makes for the best rim brake hub to date. Currently seeking new manufacturer, but still services current design if need be.

Never saw the attraction of DT. Their flanges are weaker than the best (seen broken flanges), the spacing is sub par, and the stock engagement is also not quick. They aren't cheap either. The 350 model addresses flange thickness and price. Play can happen since there is no adjustability. They rely on tolerances to be perfect so yes, if there is play they can't be fixed without replacing something.

Two things:

1. Is Wheels Mfg. still making this Alchemy hub? Mine have been great. I think the new Boyd hubs are similar in design.

2. I think the appeal of the DT-Swiss lies in the simplicity of cleaning and getting at the ring drive, which is the other part of the appeal. The ring drive is simple and extremely robust. I've had a couple sets of DT-Swiss over the years and currently a set of 240s laced to ENVE 45 tubulars. Super wheels and zero hub issues over the years.

[marciero]

I don't like current Shimano hubs because they have low engagement frequency and the flange specs are a major step back from what they used to be. I'd rather build Dura Ace to offset rim like DT or Pacenti Forza



Are you talking about "points of engagement"? road hubs? The Deore XT have 36 points of engagement I think, though only two pawls.

[Edit: Just saw that Angry specified road.]

I really like the engagement mechanism design of the DT and the I9. With DT, you can get the 350 and upgrade to whatever points of engagement. The I9 have what- 256? 512? 2^n where n=#bikes Clean39 has posted on PL?? Seriously, not necessary for the non MTB all-road riding I do. But again, I like the design, the high tolerances, the North Carolina connection, etc....

Another point regarding points of engagement-to report this in terms of degrees rotation as some companies do is a bit misleading as the actual number of degrees you would experience in use will depend on how fast you turn the pedals and what gear you are in.

[biker72]

Record, Chorus,Athena, Dura-Ace, Ultegra, 105, Tiagra. Zero problems with any of these.

[oldpotatoe]

AngryScientist;2406398]as i've been riding more miles over the years i've been thinking about this, and as i'm about to build yet another set of wheels, i'm just wondering what the forum at large thinks are the most reliable road hubs:

Campagnolo-too bad about 32h only
Shimano-various..DA really nice but big $
DT-350 mostly, essentially identical to 240 w/o the big $
Wheels Man.-GREAT hubs but yeegads, big $ again
Bitex-various other names..good hubs, lotsa options, not huge $..spoke holes REALLY big..colors

I like WI but also don't care for the bearing adjust gig

CK-nice but way to complicated for a set of bike hubs..IMHO

[BikeNY]

I'm coming from a mostly MTB background, but over the last 5 years or so I've migrated completely to DT Swiss hubs and am very happy with them.

CK obviously have a great reputation, but I find them overly complicated an over priced. 2 of my riding buddies have a set of their MTB hubs, and they need regular cleaning and regreasing of the ring drive or else they start having issues.

For me, the allure of the DT swiss hubs is in their simplicity and reliability. I have a few sets of 240 and 350 hubs, and also a set of their prebuilt X1700 wheels on my allroad bike. I have never had an issue with any of them. I upgraded the ratchets to 36 on my MTB sets, but on the road and allroad, I didn't bother. It's super simple to pull the freehub and regrease the star ratchets, but most of the time I pull it off and just put it back on because the grease still looks new. Also easily swapped endcaps for different axle configurations. 240 hubs are moderately expensive(although still cheaper then DA, CK, I9), but deals can be found. 350 hubs are a bargain as far as I'm concerned.

[MaraudingWalrus]

Unsurprisingly I mostly agree with what Ergott and OldP. have to say.

White Industries: I don't particularly like the way they adjust, I find it leaves room to do it wrong very easily so lots of them out there could be adjusted very wrong. If you have a bearing trouble, swap out for some Phil bearings and ride happily indefinitely. Ti freehub makes me happy, as does upgraded 48t ratchet ring.

CK: I think they're unnecessarily complicated and service intervals should be followed (most people seem to not) and servicing requires some special tools that are serious money too.

DT Swiss: I think each of them (350, 240, 180) are slightly, to moderately, to way too much money for what you get. Stock engagement isn't very quick, but can swap to a couple different amounts of engagement, each in theory making reliability a tiny bit worse? Easy to service without anything special. Aluminum only freehub makes me sad.

i9: I like their hubs, fast engagement, easy to service, normal bearing sizes. Easy steel freehubs available.

Shimano: Rather uninteresting but work really really well. Steel or ti freehub bodies make me happy. engagement is "fine" but not as quick as other stuff. Come with nice skewers. Great life out of all of them. New Tiagra level hub an awesome option for budget builds.

Phil: it's Phil. Seriously good, durable stuff. But pricey. But it's Phil.

Two other options not discussed:
Onyx: I really like these hubs a lot. They're totally silent, instant engagement - riding them will make your CK/i9/upgraded White Industries engagement feel like how your CK/i9, 48t WI make Shimano 105 hubs feel. A billion color options including free custom laser engraving. Steel freehub bodies make me happy, optional alloy freehub bodies with anti bite guards make me less sad than other alloy freehubs. Ratcheting mechanism is very robust, provided it's the dual clutch version. If I were building a tandem wheelset I would use these or Phil hubs.

Aivee: I have a few sets out in the wild and the people seem to dig them. Have a pair of their MP2 hub. Not much else interesting out there in between Bitex/BHS hubs and DT350s price-wise besides the entry level Aivee SR2/MP2s. SR5s a bit nicer, a bit lighter. EditionOne hubs are seriously cool lightweight hubs.

[marciero]

...
Shimano: Rather uninteresting but work really really well. Steel or ti freehub bodies make me happy. engagement is "fine" but not as quick as other stuff. Come with nice skewers. Great life out of all of them. New Tiagra level hub an awesome option for budget builds.

also loose ball/cup and cone is a plus for me with Shimano. But no one seems to care about this anymore

[oldpotatoe]

also loose ball/cup and cone is a plus for me with Shimano. But no one seems to care about this anymore

Big shimano hub plus..freehub body bolted onto hub shell. shimano lost their way for a bit with 7800/7810 but re-found their way with 7850..Bad news is essentially non servicable FHB with only 2 pawls. Another is non small parts compatibility between ranges(DA-Ultegra) and even w/o models(DA7900-DA9000, 6800-8000, etc)...

Also, not mentioned..everything below DA is 32 or 36h only(altho 36h tough to find)..

[BikeNY]

DT Swiss: I think each of them (350, 240, 180) are slightly, to moderately, to way too much money for what you get. Stock engagement isn't very quick, but can swap to a couple different amounts of engagement, each in theory making reliability a tiny bit worse? Easy to service without anything special. Aluminum only freehub makes me sad.

DT Swiss does have a steel freehub available for their hubs. I use one when I run my MTB in singlespeed mode. It's actually a great setup, I just pull the whole freehub/cassette/end cap off and pop on the SS one, makes the swap super easy.

[Hardlyrob]

I just built a backup set of wheels with Campy Record hubs. Granted I'm old old school and built them with box section Mavic Reflex Open Pro tubulars (thanks Gummee). 32 spokes doesn't bother me, and I don't think there is a better deal out there than Campy Record hubs for about $220/pair. They will outlast me...that's for sure.

In all the years I've been riding, and all the different hubs I've used, I've never had a failure of any type - that wasn't crash related. I think everything out there is plenty tough enough for most riders. Are there preferences - sure, and wheel builders like Ergott have valid arguments about the design differences.

Ride what you like...

[thegunner]

y'all can trash them all you want, but i love my tune mig/mags.

one service in the last 20k KM and they're still good as the day i got them.

[FlashUNC]

Campagnolo and DT Swiss.

Had a pair of Chris King R45s. Couldn't get rid of them fast enough.

[fiamme red]

I loved my 105 9-speed hubs, trouble-free for many years until the rear hub flange cracked. I replaced it with Tiagra.

[ColonelJLloyd]

I have never owned DT Swiss 240 or 180 hubs. I've thought about it, but the design and value of the 350s has won out when I've considered them. I do not really care for loud hubs so the volume and sound of a 350 with stock ratchet works well for me.

I just replaced the Aerohead (one was dented) rims with A23s on a 28/32 set of Shimano Tricolor 6400/6402 hubs that just keep going and going. Love those hubs.

Here's one that might surprise you; Formula sealed bearing fixed hubs. At least I think they're made by Formula. The Velo Orange high flange, sealed bearing hubs are super smooth and have been great for me. I've built three sets now.

[ergott]

I see the attraction to 240 and 350 even if they aren't my favorite. I have to say that the 180 is a really bad idea unless you are getting them for just a few bucks over 240s. They are less durable and there's only a negligible weight difference. The retail price difference between 240 and 180 is enormous.

[Spaghetti Legs]

I am generally easy on my wheels; mostly good weather paved road riding but I have had two instances in the past few years here I have ridden a hub hard. I have a Phil Wood single speed flip flop hub on my commuter that I abused for years - all weather including snow. Not too long ago I was bored and decided it had to be time to overhaul the hub after all that abuse. I tapped out the bearings and they were still smooth and the hub shell looked like the inside of a silicon chip assembly lab - shiny and pristine.

The other instance is a Velomax Circuit wheelset I used on my cross bike for a few years for typical cross racing, wet, mud, cold, etc. This was probably an R2 hub - I think they might be up to R5 now on the Easton wheels. Anyway, the hub held up well for a long time and it I should sitting in a closet now after I borked the rim. Wins my vote for combination of affordability and reliability.

I am also a big fan of Campy hubs. I am still riding several sets from the 1980’s.

[steelbikerider]

I still had my 1987 DA 7400 hubs in regular rotation until I went 11 speed 3 years ago. They started out as 7 speed, upgraded to 8, then 9, then 10 and I could even use my Wheels Man. 11 speed conversion cassette to keep it going. My other DA hubs are 7700, 2 sets 7850 hubs and 2 sets of 9000 hubs. They all have 10000 - 25000+ miles and only 1 freehub failure on a 7850 hub. Just clean and regrease every year or 2 and they are good to go again.

I've seen lots of DT's and White hubs but none last as long and keep their finish like the Dura Ace.

[Gummee]

I built my wheels mostly with shimano hubs - dura ace, ultegra, 105, Tiagra,XT, LX. I get them used from my local co-op. So far, zero issue.Yabbut.... you get Everything from the local co-op!

For me, it was my Mavic 571/2 hubset.

Then D/A, then XT, then the rest of the Shimano lineup

M

[weiwentg]

Two things:

1. Is Wheels Mfg. still making this Alchemy hub? Mine have been great. I think the new Boyd hubs are similar in design.

...

A couple of points. Ergott said that unfortunately, Wheels Mfg is not making the Alchemy hubs anymore, but it is still supporting the hubs that are out there. This must be a recent change, they still had them on their site last year when I had to shop for a new axle and bearings. I've been more than satisfied with the set I bought from him, save that I have a Campy version of the original Orc hubs and I went and switched to Shimano. So, I can't switch out the freehub. (That said, a Campy cassette has shifted fine on the hubs for about 2,000 miles so far.) And, I'm going to agree with OP here - they were really pricey. Ergott gave me a discount on his last rear Orc v1, which sealed the deal, but I wouldn't get these at full price.

I remember looking at Boyd's hubs, and I remember that the flange spacing is very similar to the Alchemy hubs. I can't source this info right now. I'd strongly consider Boyd for my next set of wheels.

I had a set of Speedcific hubs (Mike Garcia's wheels) that lasted for 8 years or so. These are likely Novatec/Joytech hubs (https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17738). For the money, they were good hubs as well. Edit: a friend who's familiar with various Taiwanese hubs confirmed that they were Novatecs.

[mtechnica]

I haven't had a problem with any campagnolo, shimano, or fulcrum racing hubs. No need to overthink this one.

[zzy]

Everyone has mentioned my favs, but Joytech/Novatech hubs are really underrated. Very cheap, lots of colors/hole options, easy to service, and very durable. No wonder so many OEMs rebrand them. Also it stuns me that their ABG freehubs haven't become industry standard (looking at you DT Swiss).

[Toddtwenty2]

I got into loaded bicycle touring a few years ago. I went with Shimano XT hubs as a reasonably priced, reasonably durable hubset. They have worked wonderfully with no service for at least 15,000 miles, many of those loaded up with gear. However, the gold standard in the touring bicycle community has been Phil Wood. If money is no option and you don’t mind some extra weight in exchange for reliability, they last an eternity. If I were taking off for a couple year trip, they would be my choice.

[El Chaba]

The Campagnolo Record "2006" hubs (and mechanically similar Chorus and Centaur) have been bulletproof and flawless for me. IMHO they are the finest hubs that have ever been made for a bicycle (in the cassette era). I wish I had bought several extra pairs when they were current. The previous model of Campy hubs (ti axle for Record) was not bad either, but servicing them was a bit more involved. I have one pair of wheels that I built with PMP hubs-for the 28 hole drilling I needed. I haven't touched them. they have a very solid, quality feel about them and they haven't had any of the issues that you seem to see with other "boutique" hubs.

Just as a name check I'd like to mention that there are no hubs made today that compare to the quality and robustness of Maxi-Car Hubs. I have a pair that I got with an old bike to restore and they are about 38 years old. Not knowing their history and wanting to look inside the hubs to see what made them tic, I opened the rear one up. Inside I discovered plenty of completely uncontaminated grease...and an ingenious system of frictionless seals. They spun smoothly and effortlessly, so I put them back together and they should be good for another 40 years or so. Unfortunately, Maxi-Car quit making the hubs about the time cassettes were becoming the standard...You can't discuss reliable hubs without mentioning Maxi-Car..I'd sum them up buy saying Phil Wood times four....

[Tommasini53]

Campy Record from 9-speed era. oh yeah..28 hole :banana: oldpotatoe got me some overhaul parts so i'll have these forever.

And whatever hubs are used on the 9-speed era Eurus wheelset. still really smooth.

[ultraman6970]

Hmm... dura ace hubs are super good, wish they were smarter and made them for campagnolo.

Miche hubs are super reliable too, not fancy but hard to kill and easy to fix.

[bikinchris]

Phil Wood has two lines of hubs and both of them are amazingly well made. The original version with steel freehub body and a Pro line with lightweight parts.
Both will last you a very long time.
I did manage to break the drive ring on my Touring hub after 20 years of my 280 pound + loaded touring butt on them.
I also like Chris King hubs. They are also very well made.
As much as I have problems with Shimano parts availability, They make good hubs that can be overhauled. The Dura Ace hubs have hardened, heat treated polished cones and cups.

[smead]

I have two training wheel sets that I've put gobs of miles on over the last 12 years. 7700 hubs. So long as I keep them greased every other year or so, I think they'll outlive me.

[Johnnysmooth]

as i've been riding more miles over the years i've been thinking about this, and as i'm about to build yet another set of wheels, i'm just wondering what the forum at large thinks are the most reliable road hubs:



- WI T11 hubs - seem great, but have what i would consider a hokey bearing adjustment system. teeny tiny set screws that are prone to get fouled with road grit. also, they dont seem to be sealed the best and dont do the greatest in foul, wet weather. i've killed the bearings in a set for sure.

-DT Swiss - initially my front runner for reliability and ease of maintenance. Love their 54t star ratchet conversion. what i dont love is the lack of bearing adjustability. you get a little bearing play - no way to dial it out other than change the bearings. , also - no color options :(

-campy - the old standard. phenomenal hubs. only 32h options now. bummer for this 130 pound rider....

-dura ace - these are likely the absolute front runner for reliable, light weight good hubs, but so quiet.....i like loud hubs. otherwise, about zero complaints with these....

-phil wood - dont know too much about the road hubs other than that they are crazy heavy.....

-i9 torch - know very little about these in the long term, but nice and buzzy and feel solid

-CK - yea, these are the hubs i keep coming back to. any bad long term reports?

Pretty much my experiences as well, though have not used Dura Ace as my campy hubs have been superb. Have CK on MTB, took a yr for those hubs/bearings to settle in but once over that phase, fantastic and love the ease to work on them - as compared to say WI, which are a PIA

[Tony]

y'all can trash them all you want, but i love my tune mig/mags.

one service in the last 20k KM and they're still good as the day i got them.

I think I have or have had every hub mentioned here outside of campy.
Don't care for W.I. and CK for reasons mentioned, like DT 240, 350. My Tune mig/mag for road use only has lots of miles and run perfect, like new. Another hub that seems to last (ALL condition, lots of dirt, water) outliving newer hubs and still running smooth are my Boyd hubs.

[mtechnica]

Hmm... dura ace hubs are super good, wish they were smarter and made them for campagnolo.


… Get campagnolo brand hubs then?

[madsciencenow]

350 and 240 are pretty hard to beat.

My personal favorites that I would use to build up a new set of wheels are DAs.

I’ve had good luck w/ campy record and CKs and the buzz is cool. I feel like bling factor is pretty high w/ CK but value is probably better for DAs or Records.

I noticed that enve is now selling wheels with i9 which makes me think they must be doing something right but I’ve never actually had a set of their hubs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bikinchris]

Oh, and another point is that I know some Phil hubs that have been on tandem bikes since the 70's and are perfect.

[bicycletricycle]

WI has been the most reliable for me. Easy to rebuild or get parts for as well. I think that phils are more reliable but the weight penalty and price has kept me away.

DT hubs used to get cracked flanges in the 90's but they seem to have fixed that. I think that the new higher tooth count ones get broken teeth sometimes.

[El Chaba]

Oh, and another point is that I know some Phil hubs that have been on tandem bikes since the 70's and are perfect.

I have a Mercian tandem from the mid 70's that got an updated 9 speed drivetrain in about Y2K. The original hubs were original Phil Wood and the rear was threaded on both sides for a freewheel and disc brake. The conversion was going to be for Campy parts. A call to Phil wood revealed that they could make me a rear cassette hub, threaded for the Phil Wood disc 9no longer made, even then)...they would make the cassette body splined section 1.5 mm wider to accommodate Campy spacing, but it would use Shimano cogs (respaced)...It was not cheap, but not much more than a regular cassette hub, and it solved quite a few problems. You can't get more accommodating. When the hub arrived, it was not light, but it did feel bulletproof...and it has been flawless in use. The front hub remains untouched from the 1970's.

[PaMtbRider]

The last time I had any type of hub failure was over 20 years ago on a cheaper mountain bike. Any of the quality mentioned hubs will last a really long time with little to no maintenance. I'm not saying to never service your hubs, but they will take a ton of abuse.

[berserk87]

I had a set of Phil Wood hubs years ago and loved them. Durable and they seemed like they had the smoothest rolling bearings of any hub I've ever seen.

I dig Chris King hubs because I have beaten the crap out of them (numerous sets) and only had one set serviced (after 13 years of hard use and racing). Outside of that, have ignored all four sets I've owned with no issues. I've used 3 sets for road wheels and one for MTB. I hate doing maintenance these days so plug, play and forget is nice.

I've had Shimano hubs from 105 to Dura Ace, and Campy Veloce, Chorus and Record (currently have a set of record hubs laced to HED Belgiums). They all work.

I can't recall owning a set of DT Swiss hubs. Folks seem to like 'em though.

I had a set of White Industry hubs in the late '90's or somewhere thereabouts. I bought them used and they had been abused. Could not get the hub play adjusted out. Sold them to a friend who promptly ruined them. I have not had a chance to try WI's modern offerings.