Should I have my Speedplay X-1s rebuilt, or just upgrade to Zeros or Paves?

[weiwentg]

In 2005, I happened across a set of used X-1s for pretty cheap, and I bought them. That set of pedals didn't have the endcap with the built in grease port, so I to pry the endcap off, insert a grease port, and then pump grease in. Over the 13 years I've now had the pedals, the resin part of the body has also worn a bit, so I have a bit of side to side rocking on the right pedal.

Speedplay were very nice and sent me a fresh set of endcaps with the built in grease ports for free. However, over the years and after a few times of prying the old endcaps loose with a screwdriver, the new endcaps don't fully fit either. So, the last time I greased my pedals, 3/4 or more of the grease was coming out the wrong side (i.e. the endcap side, spurting out past the endcap).

The folks at Speedplay told me it would be up to $140 to fully rebuild the pedals, which means replacing everything necessary including the bodies, needle bearings, bowties, and maybe even spindles (over time, the cleats wore a bit of a groove into the right spindle). It might be less depending on what components are reusable.

It's very cool that they offer that service, and I could potentially get them rebuilt for a bit less locally, but it strikes me that ordering a new set of stainless Zeros is $214 plus tax (with the walkable cleats, less for the V2 cleats), and my bike store has a monthly coupon for a 20% discount that I'm pretty sure would apply. Or I could get the Pavés, which shouldn't have the resin body wear down over time.

What thoughts do others have?

[PSJoyce]

I used X2 Speedplay for decades, and have been very happy shifting to Zero in the last two years. Considering the new Zero's will come with cleats, that's what I'd do.

[oldpotatoe]

In 2005, I happened across a set of used X-1s for pretty cheap, and I bought them. That set of pedals didn't have the endcap with the built in grease port, so I to pry the endcap off, insert a grease port, and then pump grease in. Over the 13 years I've now had the pedals, the resin part of the body has also worn a bit, so I have a bit of side to side rocking on the right pedal.

Speedplay were very nice and sent me a fresh set of endcaps with the built in grease ports for free. However, over the years and after a few times of prying the old endcaps loose with a screwdriver, the new endcaps don't fully fit either. So, the last time I greased my pedals, 3/4 or more of the grease was coming out the wrong side (i.e. the endcap side, spurting out past the endcap).

The folks at Speedplay told me it would be up to $140 to fully rebuild the pedals, which means replacing everything necessary including the bodies, needle bearings, bowties, and maybe even spindles (over time, the cleats wore a bit of a groove into the right spindle). It might be less depending on what components are reusable.

It's very cool that they offer that service, and I could potentially get them rebuilt for a bit less locally, but it strikes me that ordering a new set of stainless Zeros is $214 plus tax (with the walkable cleats, less for the V2 cleats), and my bike store has a monthly coupon for a 20% discount that I'm pretty sure would apply. Or I could get the Pavés, which shouldn't have the resin body wear down over time.

What thoughts do others have?

X series, with non adjustable, ‘unlimited’ float feel different than Zeros..with adjustable float. Xseries, with ‘walking on ice’ feeling not there with Zeros. Plus X series still made. Plus chrom moly Zeros cheaper than the stainless, same ‘puck’, different but not inferior, pedal spindle.

[weiwentg]

X series, with non adjustable, ‘unlimited’ float feel different than Zeros..with adjustable float. Xseries, with ‘walking on ice’ feeling not there with Zeros. Plus X series still made. Plus chrom moly Zeros cheaper than the stainless, same ‘puck’, different but not inferior, pedal spindle.

I vaguely recall that at one time, the X-5s were not rebuildable or something, unlike the X-1 or 2s. It sounds like this doesn’t apply to the cro-moly Zeroes.

[bfd]

Speedplay pedals are pretty easy to rebuild. I use the Frogs and have had no problems doing them. The X-pedals look pretty easy, you just need to get a cartridge bearing or two (X1):

http://www.speedplay.com/pubs/instructions/X_V2_Combined%20_Instructionss04_21_14%20Web.pdf

Without seeing the bearing, it looks very similar to the Frog's cartridge bearing (p/n R4Z)

Speedplay does sell a bearing kit, but it is expensive like $37. Check out ebay as I found frog bearing kit (one cartridge and one needle plus the o-rings) for like $15. Otherwise, the bearings are available at most bearing shops for less than $10 each.

Good Luck!

[Mark McM]

The folks at Speedplay told me it would be up to $140 to fully rebuild the pedals, which means replacing everything necessary including the bodies, needle bearings, bowties, and maybe even spindles (over time, the cleats wore a bit of a groove into the right spindle). It might be less depending on what components are reusable.

If they have to replace the bodies, bearings, bowties and spindles, there's really nothing left to re-use. If the bearings and spindles need to be replaced, than it would be cheaper to just replace the entire pedal. (That maximum rebuild price seems a bit low to me, I suspect it doesn't include spindles.)

The Ti spindles are lighter, but they also wear down faster (the needle bearings run direction on the spindle). After 13 years, I'd say that you got your money's worth, and recommend that you get new pedals. The X/2s (SS spindles) cost less and will last longer the X/1s (Ti spindles). Apart from the few extra grams, the only performance difference of the X/2's is that the spindles are 3mm longer than the X/1s. I actually use the X/1s because I like as narrow a Q factor as possible, but this may not matter for others.

[weiwentg]

Speedplay pedals are pretty easy to rebuild. I use the Frogs and have had no problems doing them. The X-pedals look pretty easy, you just need to get a cartridge bearing or two (X1)...

Noted, but I am pretty sure the resin pedal body is also worn, at least on the right. I know the X series bodies go for $40 (includes needle bearings, I think).

If they have to replace the bodies, bearings, bowties and spindles, there's really nothing left to re-use. If the bearings and spindles need to be replaced, than it would be cheaper to just replace the entire pedal. (That maximum rebuild price seems a bit low to me, I suspect it doesn't include spindles.)

The Ti spindles are lighter, but they also wear down faster (the needle bearings run direction on the spindle). After 13 years, I'd say that you got your money's worth, and recommend that you get new pedals. The X/2s (SS spindles) cost less and will last longer the X/1s (Ti spindles). Apart from the few extra grams, the only performance difference of the X/2's is that the spindles are 3mm longer than the X/1s. I actually use the X/1s because I like as narrow a Q factor as possible, but this may not matter for others.

I could have mis-remembered my convo with the Speedplay guy, but I made him aware of the spindle issue, and I recall he did say up to $140.

If I ordered new pedals, I'd likely request a custom 50mm steel spindle, which I believe is the same price as regular steel. I do like a narrow Q factor as well.

And yes, I am well aware that I really got my money's worth (those were $150 shipped back in 2005). I'm wanting to not throw out the pedals entirely, but the economics of a rebuild are pretty marginal right now.

[Mark McM]

I could have mis-remembered my convo with the Speedplay guy, but I made him aware of the spindle issue, and I recall he did say up to $140.

As can be seen from a cutaway drawing, if you replace the body (with bowties), the bearings, and the spindle, there's not much more left than a couple of screw and an o-ring:

https://d2gqkshisthvn1.cloudfront.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/speedplay-zero-internals.jpg

The retail price of an X/1 pedal set is $319, so after you subtract the retail price of the cleats ($40), that's $290 for the pedals. Maybe the Speedplay tech quoted a rebuild price of up to $140 for each pedal (left or right)?

[oldpotatoe]

I vaguely recall that at one time, the X-5s were not rebuildable or something, unlike the X-1 or 2s. It sounds like this doesn’t apply to the cro-moly Zeroes.

Chromoly Zeros identical to stainless steel, just ‘off shore’ spindle. Otherwise identical along with rebuildability.

[Mark McM]

I vaguely recall that at one time, the X-5s were not rebuildable or something, unlike the X-1 or 2s. It sounds like this doesn’t apply to the cro-moly Zeroes.

Speedplay X/5 rebuild kit:

https://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=X5+Pedal+Body+Rebuild+Kit&vendorCode=SPEDPLAY&major=5&minor=6

The X/5s (now discontinued) used a different internal design than the other X series pedals. Parts are interchangeable between the current X/1 and X/2 (and in some cases, the Zero pedals).

[weiwentg]

...
The retail price of an X/1 pedal set is $319, so after you subtract the retail price of the cleats ($40), that's $290 for the pedals. Maybe the Speedplay tech quoted a rebuild price of up to $140 for each pedal (left or right)?

Maybe I will ask him again if I decide to rebuild. If it was really $140 for both regardless of the condition of the spindles, then hats off to Speedplay.

Chromoly Zeros identical to stainless steel, just ‘off shore’ spindle. Otherwise identical along with rebuildability.

I will likely go with the stainless spindle purely due to pure and simple vanity, but this is good to know.

[Dave]

I used the x type for many years, but decided to try the zeros with the walkable cleats just last week. I couldn't get them to work with my D2 4 hole shoes. I even put them on some sidi shoes, but they were hard to get in and out of. I sold them on eBay.

The cleats seem to be very sensitive to screw tightness. The x type cleats are not.

If 4 hole shoes have recessed threads, you have to order special longer screws.

[oldpotatoe]

I used the x type for many years, but decided to try the zeros with the walkable cleats just last week. I couldn't get them to work with my D2 4 hole shoes. I even put them on some sidi shoes, but they were hard to get in and out of. I sold them on eBay.

The cleats seem to be very sensitive to screw tightness. The x type cleats are not.

If 4 hole shoes have recessed threads, you have to order special longer screws.

If they are tough to get into or out, the cleat isn’t flat. If the bottom of the shoe is arched at all(even the 4 bolt without 3 bolt adapter plate), they will be tough.