Are all threaded stems 1"...?

[catulle]

Or is there something that I've missed like a 1 1/8" quill stem...? Also, is there a manufacturer of light weight silver threadless stems, either stainless, ti, or the like...? Thank you.

[Grant McLean]

In the early 90's, some mountain bikes had 1 1/8" threaded headsets/stems.
They would have 25.4 handlebar clamp diameters, so not likely what you're
looking for. Since threaded forks need to have, well, threads this means steel
for the steerer. On a road bike, there's really no reason to have a 1 1/8" steel
steerer, 1" is plenty.

Silver threadless? Go to the source.

g

[obtuse]

Or is there something that I've missed like a 1 1/8" quill stem...? Also, is there a manufacturer of light weight silver threadless stems, either stainless, ti, or the like...? Thank you.


yeah 1 1/8th threaded hsets exist and they're the only ones shimano makes in 1 1/8th...calling them useless would be an understatement. they were for mountain bikes......then dia-compe invented the threadless "ahead"set and the manufacturers could not only optimize that brand new material "aluminum" for steerer tubes but they wouldn't even have to thread it so one fork could fit everything....and then man emerged from the primordal ooze except for places like chester connecticut where for some reason the threadless news got there but the new fangled aluminum steerer tube info got lost en route.


that new deda zero stem thing comes in a shiny silver.


obtuse

[obtuse]

In the early 90's, some mountain bikes had 1 1/8" threaded headsets/stems.
They would have 25.4 handlebar clamp diameters, so not likely what you're
looking for. Since threaded forks need to have, well, threads this means steel
for the steerer. On a road bike, there's really no reason to have a 1 1/8" steel
steerer, 1" is plenty.

g

so quick on the draw;

obtuse

[catulle]

Thank you, guys. I knew about the Oval; I wish they had the head plate screws going the right way, though.

[Kevan]

Thank you, guys. I knew about the Oval; I wish they had the head plate screws going the right way, though.

I assume the pressure placed on the head of a stem is both outward and downward during use, least that's what I do you mine. I can't see any advantage of the bolt's orientation for downward pressure certainly, but for outward the the pressure would be better displaced throughout the threaded portion of the bolt and on into the head plate, than relying simply on the bolt head to hold things in place. In fact the threaded hole is typically a smaller diameter than the hole for the bolt's shaft, granted it's scored for the thread, but still more material remains. It might just be a smart idea.

[catulle]

I assume the pressure placed on the head of a stem is both outward and downward during use, least that's what I do you mine. I can't see any advantage of the bolt's orientation for downward pressure certainly, but for outward the the pressure would be better displaced throughout the threaded portion of the bolt and on into the head plate, than relying simply on the bolt head to hold things in place. In fact the threaded hole is typically a smaller diameter than the hole for the bolt's shaft, granted it's scored for the thread, but still more material remains. It might just be a smart idea.

Not only that, but it is also addresses the aerodynamics of the hex screws facing forward. However, the Oval way makes the screws more difficult to screw and unscrew, and they look "funny". I'd rather have it the good old missionary way, atmo.

[J.Greene]

Or is there something that I've missed like a 1 1/8" quill stem...? Also, is there a manufacturer of light weight silver threadless stems, either stainless, ti, or the like...? Thank you.

My Early 90's Santana Tandem has a 1 1/4 quill stem. The headset is a campy tandem headset that also came with one of the mtb groups I think. I think Chris King still makes 1 1/4 headsets.

JG

[mls]

nitto

[mls]

Thompson makes a silver also .

[Grant McLean]

Thank you, guys. I knew about the Oval; I wish they had the head plate screws going the right way, though.

You could always just do what J.P.Weigle does.... paint your favorite stem silver.

Works for bars too.

g

[atmo]

Thank you, guys. I knew about the Oval; I wish they had the head plate screws going the right way, though.
why atmo?

[catulle]

why atmo?


See a few posts above. I mean, I think the Oval stuff is as good as it gets. I just like the bolts coming from the front better (easier to deal with, and they look better), atmo.

[catulle]

You could always just do what J.P.Weigle does.... paint your favorite stem silver.

Works for bars too.

g


Yup. That's very classy.

[atmo]

See a few posts above.
oh.
how often do you unscrew them?
for me it's an annual event atmo.

[catulle]

oh.
how often do you unscrew them?
for me it's an annual event atmo.


Is the screwing part an annual event also? If you take them out, you must put them in sometime too, don't ya...?

[atmo]

Is the screwing part an annual event also? If you take them out, you must put them in sometime too, don't ya...?
the salient feature of the oc stem is that - if you subscribe
to the notion that repeated tightening and loosening of these
parts is going to take a small toll on them (as i do) - the prudent
part to be drilled and tapped isn't the stem, it's the cap. i switched
from 3T to oc because one of the threaded holes on the stem split
open during an interval, rendering the security of the 'bars non-
existant. in my experience, tapping the front plate is more rational
because it overcomes that issue (and i have not had a plate fail),
and the plates are so inexpensive that they can be replaced at your
whim if you are the supersticious (?) type atmo.

[catulle]

the salient feature of the oc stem is that - if you subscribe
to the notion that repeated tightening and loosening of these
parts is going to take a small toll on them (as i do) - the prudent
part to be drilled and tapped isn't the stem, it's the cap. i switched
from 3T to oc because one of the threaded holes on the stem split
open during an interval, rendering the security of the 'bars non-
existant. in my experience, tapping the front plate is more rational
because it overcomes that issue (and i have not had a plate fail),
and the plates are so inexpensive that they can be replaced at your
whim if you are the supersticious (?) type atmo.


No wonder I believe this blog is better than the Britannica. I do like the Oval set-up a little better already. Hey, thanx.

[atmo]

No wonder I believe this blog is better than the Britannica. I do like the Oval set-up a little better already. Hey, thanx.


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[Jason E]

Deda has a new stem, the '100' that is silver:

http://www.velonews.com/images/report/10800.16206.f.jpg

They are also putting a silver finish on the Newton bar and stem for this year.

Here is at least a picture of the Bar, stem will match....

http://www.bicirace.com/photo/2006/Eicma/DedaNewtonBarMetal.jpg


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[KJMUNC]

Or go Ti with an old Cinelli Grammo. Lacks the open face and you have to go with 26.0 bars, but you wouldn't ever ride any of those goofy o/s anatomical bars anyway right?! ;)

[Grant McLean]

Deda has a new stem, the '100' that is silver:

http://www.velonews.com/images/report/10800.16206.f.jpg

They are also putting a silver finish on the Newton bar and stem for this year.

Here is at least a picture of the Bar, stem will match....



That stuff isn't actually silver, it's a grey, kinda like the "century" finish that's
on the centaur group. It's nice though...

g

[dave thompson]

.

[davids]

the salient feature of the oc stem is that - if you subscribe
to the notion that repeated tightening and loosening of these
parts is going to take a small toll on them (as i do) - the prudent
part to be drilled and tapped isn't the stem, it's the cap. i switched
from 3T to oc because one of the threaded holes on the stem split
open during an interval, rendering the security of the 'bars non-
existant. in my experience, tapping the front plate is more rational
because it overcomes that issue (and i have not had a plate fail),
and the plates are so inexpensive that they can be replaced at your
whim if you are the supersticious (?) type atmo.
A compelling argument, atmo.

My Seven stem has the tapped faceplate, too. I think it looks better, but I did manage to nick the stem's finish with an Allen wrench while tightening it. You've been cautioned.

http://www.sevencycles.com/images/accessories/components/stems_on.jpg

p.s. Superstitious, atmo.

[palincss]

Or is there something that I've missed like a 1 1/8" quill stem...? Also, is there a manufacturer of light weight silver threadless stems, either stainless, ti, or the like...? Thank you.

No, not all threaded stems are 1". I've got a Santana tandem that has a quill stem that is either 1 1/8 or 1 1/4".

As for a light weight quill stem: the Moon Cycles custom stem is quite light, and quite attractive, too.

http://www.cwo.com/~lunarlab/stem.htm