Campagnolo ultra torque left crank arm stuck

[buddybikes]

Newbie to Campy ultra torque. Lots of ticking (narrowed down to crankset). Attempted removal, took off right hand side correctly but left hand crank would not come out of BB. Hit it with a hammer and still stuck on bottom bracket on frame. Is real dirty down there. Any (simple) ideas? Threw it back together in meantime so I can ride it.


thx
steve

[Vamoots58]

the bearings are pressed onto the spindle and then should just be a snug fit into the cups (a hammer didn't loosen it???). Did you grease the cups prior to installing the crankset? When was the last time it came off to clean/replace the bearings??

[ronf100]

Newbie to Campy ultra torque. Lots of ticking (narrowed down to crankset). Attempted removal, took off right hand side correctly but left hand crank would not come out of BB. Hit it with a hammer and still stuck on bottom bracket on frame. Is real dirty down there. Any (simple) ideas? Threw it back together in meantime so I can ride it.





thx

steve



There’s a retaining clip on the cup that you need to remove. See these videos https://youtu.be/NyxCengPUbM and https://youtu.be/Kxvaclp0wtE


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[CaptStash]

I had the same issue some year back. My solution was to put a screwdriver into the non-drive side of the bottom bracket handle first so as not to damage the spindle, and smack away with a hammer. I also sprayed the heck out of the whole area with PB Blaster, I beat on it a little at a time for a couple of days, before it finally decided to come apart. The bearings were toast, but that was a good excuse to buy the tools to install new Campy BB bearings.


CaptStash...

[Clean39T]

There’s a retaining clip on the cup that you need to remove. See these videos https://youtu.be/NyxCengPUbM and https://youtu.be/Kxvaclp0wtE


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Retaining clip is on the DS - I think it's his NDS that is stuck.

OP - check into a product from Finish Line that's a spray that freezes the metal so it contracts. That may give you just enough that combined with a hammer-blow you can get it out of there...

[buddybikes]

It is used bike had 2 years, first time taking apart. Will try scewdriver and finish line. Fortunately the click is gone when I took half apart and greased well.

[Clean39T]

It is used bike had 2 years, first time taking apart. Will try scewdriver and finish line. Fortunately the click is gone when I took half apart and greased well.

On every complete used bike I try, the big "wait for it" is putting a wrench on the BB cups. It can either be a disaster, or a nice surprise - all depending on whether the past owner/mechanic put 10-sec and $0.05 of grease into the assembly...

[Cicli]

On every complete used bike I try, the big "wait for it" is putting a wrench on the BB cups. It can either be a disaster, or a nice surprise - all depending on whether the past owner/mechanic put 10-sec and $0.05 of grease into the assembly...

If thats the bike I sold him a couple of years ago, its greased. :banana:

[buddybikes]

That's the bike. Guess I am the bad one, just haven't service campy before. No idea why it is hanging up so much. yes bit of moisture down there but drive side slid out easy. Do love the bike. Promise will treat it better...

[AngryScientist]

i'd get a wooden dowel, put it in the BB shell against the spindle and whack it good with a dead blow hammer.

just like most folks, hit it hard enough and it'll move.

[cpamplin]

I've got an Athena PT crank that's stuck in a steel frame. I even bought the Campy crank puller but no dice. I think the mechanic that installed it might have used loctite on the spindle, or some other "trade secret", but I can't ask because the shop has long since gone out of business....

[R3awak3n]

this just happened to me, one of the arms would not come out. I got a tire lever that I did not want, put it through the bb hole and on the spindle and hammered away. After a few hard hits, it came out.

[bigbill]

I've got a 3/4" wooden dowel about 10" long that I use to tap out the drive side after I remove the clip. The NDS usually just takes some wiggling and it pulls out. Bearing outer race must be seized in the cup. Might have to take the cup off with the crank, assuming threaded.

[colker]

square taper bottom bracket-

[Cicli]

square taper bottom bracket-

No, Ultra Torque

[ultraman6970]

This is what you do, because sure that bearing is frozen due to corrosion. Next time put tons of lithium grease around the bearing and the cup, ok , now what you have to do...

Put the driver side back on the bike, put the central bolt in place, tight it a little bit and then find a piece of wood that fits in the driver side crank hole. Then smack it little by little with your fab hammer or rubber hammer.

In that way you dont risk to damage the hirth thingis if you smack the crank straight in the middle of axle. You will be hitting the bolt instead.

Hope this helps.

[oldpotatoe]

There’s a retaining clip on the cup that you need to remove. See these videos https://youtu.be/NyxCengPUbM and https://youtu.be/Kxvaclp0wtE


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Attempted removal, took off right hand side correctly but left hand crank would not come out of BB.

RH hand came off(one with clip)..I suspect the bearing is bonded into the cup(no grasso methinks?)

I'd continue to smack the LH arm with a plastic screw driver into the spindle hole.....You could probably unscrew the LH cup from the frame also and then use a punch..replace the bearings..use lotsa grease.

[oldpotatoe]

I've got an Athena PT crank that's stuck in a steel frame. I even bought the Campy crank puller but no dice. I think the mechanic that installed it might have used loctite on the spindle, or some other "trade secret", but I can't ask because the shop has long since gone out of business....

You can't get the crank arms off? Of similar problem, not getting the LH crank arm out of BB? PT, BB is part of LH cup PLUS, be sure to remove crank bolt washer..or you'll never get it off..you are pushing against the crank arm, not the spindle.

[gfk_velo]

I've got an Athena PT crank that's stuck in a steel frame. I even bought the Campy crank puller but no dice. I think the mechanic that installed it might have used loctite on the spindle, or some other "trade secret", but I can't ask because the shop has long since gone out of business....

Use the Facom U.301 puller that Campag recommend, not the Park Tool CBP3 (which they don't) and make absolutely sure that you have taken the washer out of the well of the crank.

I've not come across a PT crank that hasn't yielded to the Facom puller yet and I've removed scores, possibly hundreds by now ... some greased as per the fitting instructions, some not :-/

[gfk_velo]

RH hand came off(one with clip)..I suspect the bearing is bonded into the cup(no grasso methinks?)

I'd continue to smack the LH arm with a plastic screw driver into the spindle hole.....You could probably unscrew the LH cup from the frame also and then use a punch..replace the bearings..use lotsa grease.

Use the crank as a lever and try and "walk" the bearing.
Application of a high quality penetrating oil around the lip seal might also help free the bearing in the cup.

Impact is all well and good but remember that the axle is bonded into the crank and clobbering it with a hammer may be doing damage to that bond that you can't see - better to try and "walk" it out of the crank applying a load that the system is at least designed to withstand to some extent.

Depending on the frame and how it's constructed, if it's a threaded BB in a carbon frame for example, laying about the axle with a hammer might be doing nasty things to the bonding between the frame and the BB sleeve ...

You might also see a problem that the bearing will separate so that you then have the bearing outer seized in the cup (not the end of the world) and the annulus sitting on the crank (more of a problem, although not insoluble). Using an impact method makes this a lot more likely.

[oldpotatoe]

Use the crank as a lever and try and "walk" the bearing.
Application of a high quality penetrating oil around the lip seal might also help free the bearing in the cup.

Impact is all well and good but remember that the axle is bonded into the crank and clobbering it with a hammer may be doing damage to that bond that you can't see - better to try and "walk" it out of the crank applying a load that the system is at least designed to withstand to some extent.

Depending on the frame and how it's constructed, if it's a threaded BB in a carbon frame for example, laying about the axle with a hammer might be doing nasty things to the bonding between the frame and the BB sleeve ...

You might also see a problem that the bearing will separate so that you then have the bearing outer seized in the cup (not the end of the world) and the annulus sitting on the crank (more of a problem, although not insoluble). Using an impact method makes this a lot more likely.

All great info but if smacking it causes crankarm becoming unbonded, he’s got more problems than a stuck bearing.

[ultraman6970]

If hammer doesnt work, just remove the whole cup with the arm attached to it.

Once out you might have a better idea of what is going on, even dremel that cup little by little.