Spray.Bike and other paint methods [Archive]

jtbadge

11-28-2018, 02:08 PM

Reviving this! I am considering doing my own Spray Bike job. SBJ? Watched lots of videos and they're pretty inspiring. I'm sure these guys have a lot of experience, like Chris from Squid, but some of the more basic ones seem really doable. Way cheaper than getting it professionally PC'd as well. Anyone out there using this stuff?

I'm not sure I would do it just to save money. Sure, the initial cash investment is minimal, but a single color powder coat can be had for under $200 and will be miles more durable and look better in the long run over the life of the bike. Depends how you value your time, though, I suppose.

Doing it for the art/creativity, I totally understand.

ultraman6970

11-28-2018, 11:59 PM

Need to get me a can of that thing to test, the paint looks super neat and the secret sure is the nozzle, not that much the paint itself but need to check this product out. As for durability i havent find a single thread about durability of this product, neither curing time or if it can be clear coated using polyurethane, i assume it can but who knows.

As for differences with powder, well... powder last a long time but needs to be done well or the bike will look like with 20 coats of wet paint over it and that is a no no imo. If you want something that will stick to even chrome, will last as long as power with a super thin coat of paint, then the way to go is electrostatic paint. The issue is that is not like super available. I had a miyata pro painted with that, the paint remover goo did not work, we had to use saw blades to remove the f... paint. Had an ishiwata frame painted the same way, stupidly hard to chip paint, just amazing.

gngroup

11-29-2018, 12:16 AM

Here’s a Spray Bike fork project that came out great! Base white with a gloss clear coat in Keirin Sparkle Green. I figured I’d give it a shot and if didn’t work out I’d just send the fork off to be painted. In the end, it was easy to use, durable, and looked remarkably good for what it was.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/82db81ebdd8ce3ffa1e7fff129e94fc5.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

doomridesout

11-29-2018, 12:19 AM

Did you feel like the gloss clear went on pretty smoothly and looked good?

gngroup

11-29-2018, 12:25 AM

Did you feel like the gloss clear went on pretty smoothly and looked good?

Yep. It was easy to use; just followed the instructions. Within 24 hours I was out riding on it.

false_Aest

11-29-2018, 07:49 AM

It would be worth investigating if a 2k clear like SprayMax can go over the spray.bike paint. AFAIKT the spray.bike clear isn't a catalyzing clear and won't protect as well. 2k is expensive(ish), a bit more toxic and has 48-hour pot life but it'll protect way better than most other clears out there. If you're investing the time in painting your bike, invest the time in protecting it too.

If you go that route buy at least 2 cans.

Lay down a first light coat.
Let flash 15 min.
Lay down 2nd coat.
Wait at least 12 hours. I just do 24*
Block sand with 600+ grit (try to address any runs, texture, etc. w/out going through the clear)
Lay down 3rd coat.

*I wait longer b/c I've experienced solvent pop and it sucks -- unless you're into acne.

http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/let-me-out-solvent-popping/

zennmotion

11-29-2018, 12:14 PM

Spraybike is still acrylic enamel, just a little more sticky and with a better nozzle for curved tubes, but still basically the same stuff as hardware store Krylon, Rustoleum etc- I wouldn't expect it to be particularly durable as compared with proper 2 part urethane auto paint that requires some equipment, safety and knowledge to use.
I would skip the spraybike stuff and try this alternative instead of you want something less fragile over time:
https://rothmetalflake.com/

And whatever you do, protect yourself, all this stuff is toxic and flammable- do it outside or at least with a proper mask, not the cheap paper throwaway kind. The Spraybike video with all the hipsters having a spray party in a tiny bikeshop is idiotic darwinism, not to mention the fire risk from that cloud. Don't be these guys>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkjbIGdohsk

coelacant

11-29-2018, 04:54 PM

Spray.bike does not stick to bare metals which contradicts their claimed on their website. I found out to my dismay, after having to repaint a steel frame twice. And that's after prep work including careful sanding and degreasing, etc. My advice is if you go with Spray.bike, use a primer first. A friend used that 2K clear with shellac paint and it turned out beautifully, almost pro level result for a dyi job.

I'm hoping some of you have some experience with Spray.Bike. I'm considering buying a steel frame that's a little banged up and letting a local artist have a good old time with it.

Any word on durability, etc?

BRad704

11-29-2018, 04:58 PM

Good paintwork is 90% prep. Don't rush it.

ultraman6970

11-29-2018, 06:07 PM

Is like krylon??? :(

coreyaugustus

11-29-2018, 06:15 PM

Very well-sorted machine you have there. Very tidy.

I would have done the same thing with that bike. A green Keirin sparkle would look crazy cool if its effect showed up as Spray.Bike describe it, but in the photo you posted, it doesn't seem to appear at all. Different angle perhaps?

Here’s a Spray Bike fork project that came out great! Base white with a gloss clear coat in Keirin Sparkle Green. I figured I’d give it a shot and if didn’t work out I’d just send the fork off to be painted. In the end, it was easy to use, durable, and looked remarkably good for what it was.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/82db81ebdd8ce3ffa1e7fff129e94fc5.jpg

prototoast

11-29-2018, 06:33 PM

I tried it on my last frame. This was my first attempt at painting a bike frame, and so there's probably a lot that a better painter could do better than me, but I have mixed feelings about spray.Bike. the good, is that it went on relatively smoothly even for someone like myself with an unpracticed hand. There were only a few places where I had drips or runs. I agree that prep is a big part of it. Cleaning, sanding, smoothing, rubbing I'll make a big difference. it doesn't look quite as good as other paint jobs I've had professionally done, but it's not clear how much is me and how much is the paint. My biggest critique is that it's not particularly durable. This may be helped if you use a 2K clear coat, but I have found that it gets beat up pretty easily. What you may want to do accordingly is try to make sure that on problem areas, such as the chainstay a, bottom bracket, underside of down tube, you may want to use a dark paint, that doesn't show as much if it gets dinged.

Here's what my final results look like, I used blue sparkle over black.

http://www.dannadore.com/gallery.html

gngroup

11-29-2018, 10:38 PM

easyE

12-01-2018, 01:35 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181130/1dadbe22f849402e3ecf4b863cdb0644.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Beautiful bike! Love the green sparkle touch, great call.

easyE

02-20-2019, 05:14 PM

Just painted my fork with spray.bike. Pretty happy with how it turned out! I thought the light blue would be a little closer to the blue accents on the frame, but that's cool. Totally unique! Fun process too. Highly recommended.

johnniecakes

02-20-2019, 07:00 PM

doomridesout

02-20-2019, 08:35 PM

There's a local auto refinish place that will put auto paint in a rattle can for you- thoughts on pros/cons for doing this versus spray.bike?

unterhausen

02-20-2019, 08:42 PM

make sure you understand the safety implications of the auto paint, particularly if that includes a clear coat

ultraman6970

02-20-2019, 09:16 PM

I tihnk I have to step on this one...

The paint the guy will put in the can will be a lot better than other thing you can get in the market, never used that bike paint so cant tell about that one but doubt will be closer to even the worst of the polyurethane paint in the market. So if somebody wants to send me a can of that bike paint to test... that would be cool...

Now the bad part... polyurethane is a 2 part paint.. the paint and the activator, the can will have (i'm assuming things here because theres's more than one canned polyurethane ok?) or might have like a tab under it, you click the tab and the activator (hardener) will mix with the paint leaving you maybe a window of 24 hours to use that can, after that the paint will start getting harder or drying if you want to think it in that way. Polyurethane doesnt need ait to dry and cure, it does it chemically.

So if you know sort of how much paint you need and you have no compressor or a gun the canned paint is a good option.

Hope this helps.

ps: forgot this... you will need to get the same paint in clear coat, dont dare to put rustoleum clear coat on top of polyurethane because the paint will start bubbling because the polyurethane will try to gas out and the rustoleum stuff doesnt have porous, the gas will try to escape and will start bubbbling big time.

There's a local auto refinish place that will put auto paint in a rattle can for you- thoughts on pros/cons for doing this versus spray.bike?

papa bless

02-20-2019, 11:20 PM

I can share some experience with spray.bike paint, as I've done two frames with it. One frame I stripped the original paint before repainting it, and the other frame I just painted right over the original paint.

I had an old Ciocc that was beat, so I stripped it, primered it, and used close to three cans of spray.bike paint. Then I applied some Kierin sparkle spray.bike clear coat, then some SprayMax 2k automotive clearcoat. In my experience, I had some pretty bad durability issues. It seemed like the paint didn't bond well to the steel of my frame, and I could almost scrape it off with my fingernails. After about a year, there were scratches all over it, and the bare metal started to rust. It was a good learning experience. I wasn't disappointed that the paint didn't hold up, I was just happy with the learning that came with it.

The second frame was a Crosscheck that I bought on Craigslist. It had some dents and scratches, and I used the spray.bike framebuilder's putty to fill the scratches in before painting. Then I just sprayed the frame, and didn't use any clearcoat. To my surprise, it held up surprisingly well. I could scrub the bike down after cross races without any damage, throw it the back of my car, lock it up to railings and bike racks, and generally abuse it. After a year there was hardly any damage.

If you're going to use this paint, be sure that it bonds to your frame. I don't think I primered my first job correctly, or I did something else wrong. I know the Squid Bikes team has all their raw aluminum frames painted with spray.bike paint, and their bikes look crisp in all of their photos.

One other thing to note: the spray distance is critical. If you hold the can too far away from your bike, the paint dries before it reaches the frame, and you get a very textured finish (almost like sawdust is stuck under the paint). I had to do some serious sanding before I learned that I needed to spray closer than I would with Krylon or other department store paint.

Feel free to ask me for tips. I didn't do a perfect job, but I learned from the vast amount of mistakes I made, so maybe I can save you from making them.

ultraman6970

02-21-2019, 12:10 AM

The reason the "paint over" held was because the base paint had been there like since forever... the older the paint job the better base for the new paint job the issue is that you can do that in a car or in a monocoque carbon frame but in steel if you add 2 more coats to a bike the paint job will look like powder coating.... but resuming the reason was the old paint that was under it.

As for the 1st paint job, well a lot of things could be going on, since the primer did not work too well then the metal probably was not sanded good enough, some primers are stickier than other ones tho. Hard to tell what happened.

Either way, primer choice is a must but with this bike stuff paint who knows, the other detail is curing... those can paints dry and cure by air and they take a very long time to cure if the paint is not cured the thing will nick super easy.

Wonder if a polyester primer could have worked better than the one they sell....

TREEfool

02-21-2019, 07:36 AM

I have been waiting for somebody to do a proper write-up and durability test of spray.bike

I wanted to repaint a gravel bike but after emailing them and asking about durability from getting pelted by rocks I decided to just try some spray paint that I found a locally. After a lot of prep work I was impressed with the results and I saved quite a lot of money over the spray. Bike stuff. I have some chipping in a few spots which doesn't bother me much because a bike is meant to get scratched up but if somebody can prove to me that spray. Bike stuff is more durable I will use it for my next paint job.

Doug Fattic

02-21-2019, 08:51 AM

If I wasn't already a professional painter and wanted to paint a frame without all my fancy equipment, (but still know what I know), I would find a local automotive paint supplier that sells Spray Max. It has already been talked about on this thread. This is a product where the local store puts into a Spray Max aerosol can the 2 part epoxy paint that you choose that they already sell. There is a button on the bottom of the can that you push to place the activator into the paint. Of course once activated there is a window of time before it hardens by chemical action (it doesn't air dry).

I would use House of Kolor Paint. I would use the primer color (it is available in 6 colors that can be mixed for any number of variations) that is similar to the top coat color unless for effect it needs to be black or white. I would need to work fast so after sanding the primer I could apply another coat to act like a sealer. Next I would spray probably 3 coats of one of the many Shimrin Kolors (the 1st initial of the name of the creator of the brand started with a K). And finally my 3rd can of Spray Max would be the final polyurethane clear. I wold spray at least 2 coats.

There has already been a discussion of using Spray Max on a subject thread on Paceline a year or more ago. Several Paceliners had decent success with this product.

ultraman6970

02-21-2019, 10:15 AM

Never used Spray max but just from the comments and content of the can worth the money spent, the other secret could be the nozzle in those cans, I imagine sprays really close to a spray gun.

I've had mixed results using the preval thing, the issue with those units is that the pressure and the nozzles arent all the same, some cans come with less pressure than others, same the darn nozzles but if you dont have a spray gun and is not that much what needs to be sprayed the preval units arent a bad idea compared to rustoleum POS stuff.

Rustoleum has a paint line for Cars... please dont paint with that Ever.!!! OK?.. the paint is like a latex type of paint, never understood why they put that POS in the market.

joosttx

03-13-2019, 07:53 PM

I bought some spray.bike and did some masking over regular gold rattle can and some fades on my daughter's bike. I had to do it twice because the first time I held the can too far away and the paint dried before it got to the frame leaving a powdery mess on the frame. The second time is turned out great except I used a sparkle gold clear which frankly made it look a little dirty. It is not as good as a powder coat but it is much better and easier to work with than a rattle can. Here are the results.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7871/32412011267_8b1e55102e_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7896/47301075132_314a73b37b_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7921/47301075232_7ff022821c_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/40389614823_ea87445562_b.jpg

duff_duffy

03-13-2019, 08:07 PM

Looks great! Bike of the day in my opinion. getting inspired to paint my kids bikes now...

I bought some spray.bike and did some masking over regular gold rattle can and some fades on my daughter's bike. I had to do it twice because the first time I held the can too far away and the paint dried before it got to the frame leaving a powdery mess on the frame. The second time is turned out great except I used a sparkle gold clear which frankly made it look a little dirty. It is not as good as a powder coat but it is much better and easier to work with than a rattle can. Here are the results.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7871/32412011267_8b1e55102e_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7896/47301075132_314a73b37b_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7921/47301075232_7ff022821c_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/40389614823_ea87445562_b.jpg

ultraman6970

03-13-2019, 09:53 PM

I have to agree, looks great...

You have to keep us posted with the durability of the paint...

joosttx

03-13-2019, 11:45 PM

I have to agree, looks great...

You have to keep us posted with the durability of the paint...

Will do. She is dropping the bike about every time she stops so it’ll be a good test

mhespenheide

04-06-2020, 04:58 PM

Will do. She is dropping the bike about every time she stops so it’ll be a good test

Houston, can I ask for an update about a year on?

mhespenheide

04-06-2020, 05:01 PM

And does anyone have any experience with the "clears" from spray.Bike?

I'm looking at a used Poprad that's been powdercoated an electric blue that I'm not overly fond of; wondering about adding one of their white or black clears overtop to hopefully get a light blue or just a blue that's not hyper-saturated. Problem is, I can't find any references for what that will look like after application.

joosttx

04-06-2020, 07:41 PM

Houston, can I ask for an update about a year on?

I think using the sparkle clear was a mistake or I made a mistake bc it made the paint job look grainy. The bike has been put through the wringer. It could use another paint job.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49743852443_c2e3e35b3a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iMGfhk)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2iMGfhk) by Houston Joost (https://www.flickr.com/photos/115875593@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49744398666_fb9bdbb150_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iMK3DY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2iMK3DY) by Houston Joost (https://www.flickr.com/photos/115875593@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49744721532_bb667336aa_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iMLGCC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2iMLGCC) by Houston Joost (https://www.flickr.com/photos/115875593@N04/), on Flickr

AngryScientist

04-06-2020, 07:43 PM

through the wringer. It could use another paint job.
r

i follow insta.

your daughter is a ripper! she would have killed a joe bell paint job by now too.

:hello::hello::hello:

joosttx

04-06-2020, 07:45 PM

i follow insta.

your daughter is a ripper! she would have killed a joe bell paint job by now too.

:hello::hello::hello:

The space shuttle's paint would of been wrecked within 6 months. Another plug for Cleary bikes as this was my sons and passed down to my daughters. Cleary bikes are rock solid.

ultraman6970

04-06-2020, 09:30 PM

Joost what happens is that the sparkle part is particles of metal, or plastic in this case IMO (cost)... well what you have in there is easy to fix IMO.

Sand tiny bit but not too much or you will crack the sparkle particles in a half and the effect will go to lala land.. so sand slightly and shoot transparent clear coat on top, maybe 3 coats, sand and polish.

Do a test under the bike and see if it gets as nice as you want.

old fat man

04-09-2020, 09:13 PM

What have people found for stencils? I'm spraying an old caad10 and want to add some patterns or other style. I'd love to find some leaf stencils I could use on the frame and fork but coming up empty in my searching so far.

Nerckass

09-16-2020, 08:53 AM

AngryScientist

09-16-2020, 09:09 AM

Any sugestions before I start again ?

Nerckass,

I'm merging your question into one of the other lengthy discussions on home paint methods. lots to read up on.

i would say it is entirely possible to get a good quality at home paint job, but it comes down to good prep work, selecting quality products, attention to detail, and importantly: wearing appropriate PPE when working.

junkfood

09-16-2020, 09:16 AM

Hi all. I have recently painted 2 of my cycle frames.

One of the frames is carbon fibre the other is alloy.

I have used an aerosol paint ,that is suitable for interior and exterior domestic use.

The paint used was bought from a super market ,not a specialised paint shop.

Inspite of the finish looking reasonably good the paint chips and seems to scratch easily.

Is there a paint that is resistant to the above ?

I rubed the frames down with wet and dry paper and applied an under coat,
then several top coats.

Any sugestions before I start again ?

Most any spray paint is going to be less durable. The exception being a 2 part spray can like SprayMax 2k. They are a can that you have about 48hrs to use after you start. They are expensive though compared to even high end aerosol art paint. Spray Bike is very similar to other Aerosol Art brands in my opinion. Easy to use and some great paint jobs are achievable, but they are not going to be as durable as a factory finish or proper re-paint.

Jake

BRad704

09-16-2020, 09:57 AM

Hi all. I have recently painted 2 of my cycle frames.

One of the frames is carbon fibre the other is alloy.

I have used an aerosol paint ,that is suitable for interior and exterior domestic use.

The paint used was bought from a super market ,not a specialised paint shop.

Inspite of the finish looking reasonably good the paint chips and seems to scratch easily.

Is there a paint that is resistant to the above ?

I rubed the frames down with wet and dry paper and applied an under coat,
then several top coats.

Any sugestions before I start again ?

After several of my own home paint jobs using hardware store (but name brand) spray paint, I've had very good results finishing with a well done gloss clear coat. The clear coat seems to harden up better than just the color.

prototoast

09-16-2020, 10:36 AM

Hi all. I have recently painted 2 of my cycle frames.

One of the frames is carbon fibre the other is alloy.

I have used an aerosol paint ,that is suitable for interior and exterior domestic use.

The paint used was bought from a super market ,not a specialised paint shop.

Inspite of the finish looking reasonably good the paint chips and seems to scratch easily.

Is there a paint that is resistant to the above ?

I rubed the frames down with wet and dry paper and applied an under coat,
then several top coats.

Any sugestions before I start again ?

The most important thing you can do is wait after you paint to assemble and ride the bike. Common spray paints are less durable than professional grade paints, but paint is not fully cured even when it's dry to the touch. If you let it sit for a month before doing anything with it, it will last much better than if you try building up right away.

old fat man

09-16-2020, 10:57 AM

I spent many hours failing to get the old paint off and trying to get an acceptable finish coast using quality spray paint.
I ended up taking my aluminum frame to a local powder coat shop. For $90, they stripped it and turned it a fun candy purple color. Not an option with carbon, but I would definitely do this again for metal frames. I wanted time and money trying to do it myself.

zennmotion

09-16-2020, 11:59 AM

The most important thing you can do is wait after you paint to assemble and ride the bike. Common spray paints are less durable than professional grade paints, but paint is not fully cured even when it's dry to the touch. If you let it sit for a month before doing anything with it, it will last much better than if you try building up right away.

It's been a while since I did a rattle can job, but I did quite a few BITD using hardware store products, Krylon and the like, and after a few frames I got them coming out OK, so it can be done with some practice, but the first few will be a mess. A couple of tricks included keeping a small dish of paint thinner nearby, as soon as the POS nozzle started to clog, I'd pop it off and soak it to prevent drips and keep the spray from splattering. Sometimes it was necessary to sacrifice the last quarter or so of an emptying can as the pressure would start to give out causing splatter. Cool ambient temperature (60-70 F)and low humidity helped, as well as gently warming the can in a hot water bath before use- so warmish paint on coolish surface. As mentioned above, curing the paint over time is key to durability, either hang the frame up for a month or--- what I do--- "cure" it in the back seat of your car over a few warm days in the sun to speed the process up. I did cure a fork in the kitchen oven at low temp for a few hours once, but that was before I was married, those days are over now:banana: Durability was OK, obviously not nearly up to par with more expensive 2 part paints, but held up with a few chips over several years. Not all bikes need to be elegant, even current hardware store paint is better than what came off the factory floor in the 70s or before...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaxRQh03BOw

carpediemracing

09-16-2020, 03:19 PM

When I needed my frame painted I asked a guy I know that restores his own cars to shoot whatever paint he was using onto my frame. I figured it'd use maybe a pint or two of paint, I could pay for a gallon or two. He'd get paint out of it, I'd get a painted frame. The randomness of color added a bit to the appeal - I was half hoping for some wacky color.

Ends up he was using red, which, again, I wasn't choosing, but it happened to be the color of the team kit.

He went one step further than paint because he's a bit OCD (good sign - he'd polish every nut and bolt on a buffing wheel prior to assembling his Minis, which he restored from frame up, about one every 18-24 months). He used an expanding primer, smoothed out all the welds using it, and then shot it with a couple coats of paint.

My frame and his red Mini in the background (he has seven old Minis and one new one):
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_AB-7yo5Yuo/T9ACHgUgQVI/AAAAAAAAEEI/zE7XMwfBYOE/s800/2012-06-06_17-33-37_2.jpg

My frame up close:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eHhNPrlozDc/T8_8aSY9V3I/AAAAAAAAEDg/UfObIHplo-c/s800/DSC_0675.JPG

A truck he did when he was just out of high school, which he still has. He did the chop (he showed me where it could have been better), did the engine (normal built, not crazy), and painted the thing - he did it all himself:
https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/262318_10150307103108824_2110882_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_sid=cdbe9c&_nc_ohc=uzCDBr484gMAX819nWw&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=ff572e232fab05e2a3b7eeb982aa0539&oe=5F865E5E

Gsinill

09-16-2020, 04:55 PM

...

martl

10-09-2020, 06:48 AM

Just finished painting my old Scott Scandium frame. Old state was clear coat over polished alloy but it had gotten really ugly.

All the writing is the polished alloy underneath, masked with home-cut vinyls.
Color was supposed to be a plaing gray but turned out to be a metallic because i ordered the wrong Audi color :D Blue is some Mercedes automotive as well.
White rings are a lettering enamel usually used for pinstriping.

Work in Progress:

https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/f3/5/508/508300-fdnhg1n8242t-img_20200828_202141-large.jpg (https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/p/508300)

https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/f3/5/508/508793-s2f3lz26omtb-img_20200908_152655_210-large.jpg (https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/p/508793)

This is the first mock buildup, not finished yet.

https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/f3/5/510/510621-0hh969vmcl72-ej4jnncx0aa9gue-original.jpg (https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/p/510621)

https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/f3/5/510/510622-4w1jjl9l8p96-ej4j1tsxkailxxs-original.jpg (https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/p/510622)

https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/f3/5/510/510620-pgql0sam14qy-ej4jfzmxcaieohg-large.jpg (https://fotos.rennrad-news.de/p/510620)