Carbon Saddle scuffs

[galgal]

Have a Selle Italia Flite Evolution saddle, with the carbon shell. Has scuffs on the saddle shoulders and a small scuff near the nose. Given that pretty much only reason to have this saddle is for its "look", am considering cosmetic clean up and could use advice, recommendations. Am thinking of lightly wet sanding scuffed areas and then polishing with an automotive polish. A couple of questions. Am assuming that since is a carbon shell, wet sanding will not create further issues. Only scuffs on saddle, no tears/rips. Secondly, any suggestions on polish? Maybe a polish that also diminishes scuffs and scratches? Thx

[cadence90]

1) Progressively sand (by hand only!) the affected/surrounding areas with 600/800/1200 wet/dry sandpaper; maybe start with 400 if the scratches are deep.

2) Clean very well with soap and water. Dry thoroughly.

3) Then see if your auto polish and buffing are sufficient to restore the finish.

4) If not, or if the polish wears off quickly, then the clear-coat will need to be restored. The standard nail polish fix wouldn't be so good here, imo, unless the scratches are really tiny, so an automotive-quality spray clear-coat would be better.

5) If so, clean/dry thoroughly to remove all the polish, and then use a good spray clear-coat. SprayMax 1K (1-part; glossy or matte) is pretty good, but since the saddle is high-use, SprayMax 2K (2-part; glossy, semi-gloss, or matte) would be even better, as it is extremely durable when cured.

6) As always, spray outside under correct temperature range; spray very delicately; and follow all instructions regarding re-coating and curing times.

The 2K is +/- 24/36-hour use only, however, since once the catalyst is released in the can there is no turning back, so maybe have some other components you would like to restore with it ready at the same time.

I would not recommend a standard hardware store clear (lacquer, etc.). It will wear off quickly and may also yellow when in contact with the existing clear-coat. The SprayMax clear-coat stuff seems not to yellow, ime at least.
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[galgal]

Thank you sir, for The detailed response. I should have posted pics but finding it hard with reflections and all, will try now. Yes, I was only going to wet sand by hand using 2000 grit. No expert, so that seems safer. Had'nt thought of a spray, hmmm. Was considering something like Meguilars scratch polish. Going to post some pics that might show the scuffs. If I can get saddle ship shape, er, bike shape, would look good on C40:)

[cadence90]

Sure, the finer the grit the better, although 2000 is extremely fine.
Just never sand all the way through the existing clear-coat to the carbon itself. :no:

You could try Meguiar's, etc. with no damage to the saddle, so why not? Otherwise perhaps Armor-All? I really don't know how well those products adhere under riding, though.

Long-term, SprayMax 2K is really excellent.

Good luck. And, sure, if that saddle fits you, very nice on a C40!.
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[galgal]

Ok, thanks, will check out the SprayMax 2k.
Anyone else have suggestions, hoping I clean up this saddle

[glepore]

The advice above is excellent. 2k clear is a great product - maybe overkill though at 30 bucks/can. I've had good luck with VHT clear wheel paint.

[8aaron8]

If you decide that the saddle is just too scuffed I'll happily take it off your hands;) The above advice is great and as mentioned find something else to clear if you get the 2k clear in a can.

[ultraman6970]

This is what you do op...

Sand the whole thing (if you want) with 600 grit wet sand paper, then you have to clear the saddle again, car grade polyurethane clearcoat, do not put anything but polyurethane in there, is the only one that will stand for long time.

Then sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper and polish the heck out of it.

[galgal]

SprayMax 2k seems to be the consensus. Will have to wait to use it though. Recommended temp is 65 degrees minimum and not reaching that in NYC anytime soon. Meanwhile, I can fret about wet sanding with 600 grit, sounds a little scary for a non-pro.

[ultraman6970]

YOu sand enough to etch the surface, if you have like bumps in the bad areas just sand them smooth, that will get the surface even so the clear lays as good as posible. If you get runs just sand them off... onece you are done just clean using rubbing alcohol and clear the piece. If you see like black dust coming out thats carbon, dont get scare... is not that you will shave the whole thing, just means that is enough.

Temperature is an issue more than nothing because of how the paint flows out of the nozzle and the time will take to dry. Polyurethane dries chemically thats the reason they give you that temp range but you have a trick tho.

The idea is that each drop gets pretty much almost dry at the time it hits the surface, thats why they tlak about temperature, if the temperature is too low the paint might try to run more than normal, so you get runs.

What you can do is to put the can into hot water, that will heat the paint inside and will flow better in low temperatures, you can heat the seat just a little bit using a hair dryer... another option is to spray further away, but u might need maybe 3 or 4 coats that way.

Dont get scare, the 1st time is always like that, after that you will notice that is not that hard to do it. I can reclear that for you if you want. Need to check if i have enough clear and hardener tho, but i think I might have enough for something like a saddle.

[cadence90]

SprayMax 2k seems to be the consensus. Will have to wait to use it though. Recommended temp is 65 degrees minimum and not reaching that in NYC anytime soon. Meanwhile, I can fret about wet sanding with 600 grit, sounds a little scary for a non-pro.

SprayMax 2K is good stuff. As has been pointed out it is not inexpensive, though, and you really need to have other parts ready to spray as well, because the can will completely dry up in ~36 hours.

This is probably the least expensive price, shipped, for SprayMax 2K Gloss Clear (https://www.ebay.com/itm/SprayMax-3680061-2K-Glamour-High-Gloss-Clear-Coat-11-8-oz-Aerosol-Spray-Can-USC/112526891180?epid=810269949&hash=item1a332018ac:g:5JkAAOSwKQ9aTAsH).
I have no experience with the VHT product suggested above; maybe it is less expensive.

As ultraman wrote, don't be afraid.
Sand gently, by hand; clean/dry well; spray light, even coats, carefully; follow temp/re-coat/off-gas instructions perfectly; finish.

You live in NYC? DO NOT spray inside your apartment or in an non-ventilated area!!! The stuff is strong, nasty to inhale.
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[glepore]

Yeah, forgot about that. 2k is a catalyzed paint, and yes, the fumes are beyond nasty, they're toxic.

[galgal]

Thanks Cadence & Ultra,

Yes, am in NYC and after reading up on the product, I am most definitely NOT going to use it indoors. Which unfortunately means I have to wait till the weather cooperates, and temp is within recommended range.
Don't know why I went the Flite Evolution route, the Flite Ti is nice enough:rolleyes:

[cadence90]

galgal, check your PMs.
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