velotel
04-09-2018, 02:51 PM
The second tour, the french tour, seven days of riding, seven days of rolling high on blacktop and dirt, seven days of riding in my backyard.
Kicks off with the shuttle from the airport to Bourg d’Oisans, the lodestone town for cyclists who love to climb. I read once that during the summer something like 1000 riders do Alpe d’Huez every day! Amazing! We are not doing Alpe d’Huez. It’s a good climb but, outside of its Tour de France history, it’s not one of the greatest french climbs. Lots of much more interesting climbs to do. Like the nearby Col du Sabot, both higher and steeper than Alpe d’Huez. Also somewhat unknown, even to french cyclists. Crazy road really, doesn’t go anywhere, ends in a notch high on the mountain. The Isère department’s highest paved col at 2100 meters (6889 ft). Gorgeous road, sweeping switchbacks snaking up through a wide, treeless basin of avalanche swept meadows. Like I said paved but the upper two-thirds so rustic at times you might wonder if it’s asphalt under the tires. The upper two-thirds is also a tight one-laner, sustained steep, lots of long double-digit ramps. For some reason I find it rides easier than the numbers. Maybe because the road is just such a joy to follow up the mountain. Finally gets easy at the very top just before ending in a small parking lot. Nothing there, just a hiking trail continuing up the mountain. Oh yea, the views are pretty amazing. In the far distance, Mont Blanc, in closer the Col du Glandon which we’ll cross in a couple of days. The descent is, in my opinion, friggin awesome, but demanding, about as technical as a paved road gets with the surface hopping around, lots of asphalt patches, usually lots of cow pies, in other words perfect for fat-tired road bikes. A good prologue ride, about 60 K (37 miles) with around 10 K on dirt roads along the river, 1630 vertical meters (5347 ft).
Day two, a road from my best of the best, also the tour’s longest dirt climb, the road to the Plateau d’Emparis followed by a trail to the day’s and tour’s high point, Col du Souchet, 2365 meters high (6890 ft), with a view to knock you off your bike. Starts with a shuttle to le Freney where we start riding. Up the highway to the Chambon dam, left turn into steep switchbacks to the village of Mizoën, at a good fountain we go right onto a steep one-laner, the climb to the Plateau d’Emparis. Asphalt for 2,5 K followed by 20 K of some of the finest dirt road you’ll ever ride. Amazingly smooth much of the time, steady climbing, 7-8%, sometimes 9%, eyeball-warping views the whole way up. The plateau, an undulating expanse of alpine prairies below summits and ridges, elevations over 2000 meters. This is where we catch the trail to the Col du Souchet, a col you’ve probably never heard of and one you’ll never forget. Around 170 vertical meters of climbing to get to it, mostly moderate grades but some steeper sections, at times technically challenging with the trail worn into a deep furrow over the years. The col itself is a broad, gentle saddle of grasses and wildflowers. You might not notice them. Filling the horizon and soaring into the sky are spires and faces of rock, ice, and snow, la Meige, summit 3764 meters (12,349 ft). You’ll want to hang on the col to take it all in. Next up almost 6 K of descending and traversing on a beautiful single-track of packed, smooth dirt. Spectacular isn’t a big enough word. Finally onto a ridge line above the small village of le Chazelet, in the distance the valley leading to the Col du Lautaret. Now the hardest part of the ride, a long series of rocky stackbacks, sometimes ridable, sometimes not, dependant on whether it rained a lot over the summer and if livestock used it. Finally blacktop again, up and over a small hill and down to the village of la Grave then through the gorge we were staring down into during the climb to the plateau and from the single-track. A magnificent day, 50 K (31 miles), 1875 vertical meters (6150 ft).
Day 3, shuttle up the road towards Col du Glandon. Yes, in the van, unless you want to ride it. The climb to Glandon is relatively easy but riding it all the way will make a long day way longer, in distance and vertical. Thus the shuttle to the big reservoir about 6 K below the col. Easy climb to the col followed by a screamer of a descent into the Maurienne Valley where we turn right and head to the beautiful stackbacks of Montvernier, in french the Lacets de Montvernier, a vertical work of art carved into a series of small cliffs. An elegantly crafted one-laner of smooth pavement twisting up the mountain via 17 switchbacks, a pure joy to ride. Followed by a steady climb up through alpine meadows and forests, across a rock cliff with the road blasted into a balcony, then more forests and alpine meadows and finally onto the Col du Chaussy, at 1533 meters (5029 ft) not particularly high. A fine climb. Followed by a wild mouse descent off the other side on a smooth one-laner (lots of blind turns) to the hamlet of Bonvillard where we jump onto a road I never tire of riding, at least mentally. Physically it always tires me. Starts off paved, fortunately because it’s also friggin steep at times, a tight one-laner through a light forest then through rolling prairies of grasses and flowers to Lac du Loup, more a large pond than a lake really, nestled in a small basin. Up a quick series of stackbacks above the lake, over a roll, more prairies sweeping across the heights and the road turns to dirt, fairly smooth much of the time but with rocky sections to stimulate the legs and line-picking skills. Lots of long, sweeping turns winding up to a ridge above the Longchamps ski resort. From the top of the ridge we’re looking straight up the valley back at the Col du Glandon, in the opposite direction the Col de la Madeleine. Fast run across the ski slopes, with one short but nasty climb, down to the road to the Col de la Madeleine and 3 K later on the col, 2000 meters (6562 ft). A fine ride with a crazy mix of conditions and views. And now a long, fast, fun descent to the valley floor where the van’s waiting for the shuttle to our hotel in Arêches where we’ll stay for two nights. A long day, around 90 K (56 miles), 2400 vertical up (7873 ft), almost 3700 vertical down (12100 ft).
Day 4, up through one of my favorite high alpine basins surrounded by undulating ridges and round summits, and at the head of the valley the Cormet d’Arêches, 2109 meters (6919 ft) high, a col rarely visited by road cyclists. The last 4 K on each side are dirt and every account I’ve read about riding this col says a mountain bike is required, which is rubbish. The surface is mostly easy rolling with only a few sections rocky enough that you’ll want to do a bit of line picking. To date the fattest tire I’ve ridden it with measured 25mm, barely. From the hotel to the col 14 K, 1100 meter rise (3608 ft), the first 7 K almost a normal road but narrow and often fairly steep, the next 3 K a one-laner, rustic asphalt hopping around over the contours, and the last 4 K dirt and steep, close to 10% in one section. As usual excellent views. Now we start working up onto and along a high ridge, part of the time on dirt roads, the rest of the time on single-tracks, sometimes easy, sometimes hard, sometimes technical. A good mix, lots of challenge, major fun. The highlight is a pure single-track for almost 2 K on top of this round, grassy ridge with huge views off both sides, particularly to the right with Lac de Roselend just below and in the distance the mass of Mont Blanc. The trail ends at a dirt/gravel road we’ll fly down to the Col du Pré. From the col down to Arêches is fast and furious, narrow road, gravity pulling hard, a dozen switchbacks stacked on a crazy steep hillside of hay, major smiles all the way down to out hotel. Roughly 40 K (25 miles), maybe 1625 vertical meters (5331 ft), relatively modest numbers but I think at the end you’ll feel like we did more.
Day 5, Col du Joly, 1989 meters (6525 ft), another col you might not know, another road that really doesn’t go anywhere, just to the top of a ridge with one more view to knock you off your bike. This time it’s Mont Blanc filling up the horizon, the close horizon, like really close. Actually there is a road down the other side, a dirt access road for the ski area on the back side. There’s a ski lift to the left of the col plus a restaurant with a huge deck to the right of the col. Unfortunately the restaurant won’t be open when we get there, off season, because a beer would go down well after the climb. The last 10 K average just over 8%, with ramps. What happens next isn’t finalized yet. It’s either drop back down the road we came up then climb to Col des Saisies or, preferrably, take a long and possibly amazing single-track across the flanks of a mountain to the Col de Véry, about 7 K away and damn near the same elevation, 1960 meters. I haven’t ridden the trail yet so can’t say absolutely how it’s going to be but from what I’ve been told, it’s totally ridable. All things being relative, ridable for one person isn’t necessarily the case for someone else so it needs to be checked out. On the assumption that what I’ve heard is correct, should be terrific, a fine, though at times technical, jaunt across the mountains. Followed by more ridge riding on dirt roads then a long descent down through the Megève ski resort and down the valley to our hotel at Praz sur Arly. About 45 K (28 miles) with 1700 vertical (5577 ft). If for some reason the trail isn’t what I’ve been told, we’ll do the climb up Mont Bissane, down to Col des Saisies, then up a series of good dirt roads to Col de Véry. Another excellent ride, just lots more asphalt and less adventure than the single-track across the mountain.
Day 6, I call it the Grand Traverse, a 15 K semi-jeep track from the Col des Aravis to the Col de l’Arpettaz, one of my all time favorite dirt tracks. I’ve ridden it at least half a dozen times and never tire of it. Officially called the Route de la Soif, loosely translated the road of thirst. Why, no idea. I call it the Grand Traverse because that’s what it is, a grand traverse across the flanks of a long, super steep mountain ridgeline. We start off from the hotel on small secondary roads wandering past homes and farms, direction Flumet and the start of the climb to Col des Aravis, 1486 meters (923 ft). Short and mostly easy climb up through the village of la Giettaz to the col where we turn left onto the Grand Traverse. Starts off a bit rocky then curls left into a small forest, pops out of the trees and smack into a magnificent view of Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles above the Chamonix valley. We’ll have that view for the next 15 K. The road’s a dirt and gravel track curling through steep sided basins, over a round ridge where we’ll hit the highest point of the day, 1758 meters (5768 ft), followed by a long, twisting descent into a the last basin of the day. The climb out of the basin isn’t long, only 100 or so vertical meters, but after all we’ve ridden so far it can seem long. The last bit is super easy so we can wheel onto the col looking fast and relaxed and ready to celebrate the crossing with some beers, if the restaurant is still open. Might already be closed for the season. And plunge that may be the best of the tour, down to Ugine on a one-laner, rustic asphalt, something like 44 switchbacks, the road constantly bucking and jiggling around. In other words a paved descent demanding a bit of technical prowess. I love it, always one of the very first to pop into my head when I start thinking about great descents. In Ugine we’ll either call it good after 50 K (31 miles) with 1400 meters (4593 ft) of climbing and 2000 meters (6561 ft) of descending and climb into the van or if there’s still energy to burn, we’ll do a series of fun roads in the hills and bypass Albertville to clock 80 K (50 miles) with 2134 meters (7000 ft) up and 2811 meters (9222 ft) down.
Day 7, last day and a totally local ride, in fact so local that I doubt anyone else does it. Road riders do part of it and mountain bikers do part but to do all of it a fat-tired road bike is pretty much needed. Around here there aren’t many people doing fat-tired road bikes, yet. Kicks off with what I call the Farmers TT, farm roads on the valley floor, a mix of paved and dirt one-laners. and totally flat. 15 K later we’re heading into the hills. A lot of weaving around, small roads mostly, then we hit the climb to the Col du Barrioz. Two roads to the col, we do the interesting one, a steep, narrow puppy. Not a big climb, the col’s only at 1038 meters, but you might think otherwise when we get to the col. Left turn onto a no-extra-space two-laner of rustic asphalt. Outside of one short section of flat and slight descent followed by a rude ramp of pain, it’s an easy, steady climb on mostly 7-8% grades. 5 K later the blacktop ends in the parking for a nordic ski area. We swing left onto a dirt road, up through some sweeping switchbacks, grades still around 8%, surface packed dirt. Grades go limp, road skirts a small meadow on top of the ridge, highest point of the day, 1700 meters (5577 ft). There’s a trail that keeps going up the ridge but after a K or so it hits a steep hill that’s definite hike-a-bike terrain. I haven’t gone up that yet but I know that afterwards the ridge isn’t far off flat so it might be possible to include the high ridge in a loop. Has to be checked out. Otherwise we ride back down to the nordic parking lot and hop onto a truly excellent jeep trail across the mountain to the Pipay ski station. About 10 K long, the first half smooth and fast, the second half a technical double-track that’s a gas to ride. Kind of crazy really because this thing is a fantastic ride and almost no one does it! It’s too easy for mountain bikers and road riders are totally blind to its existence. From Pipay back to our hotel is pretty much nothing less than a rollicking ramble across and down the mountain via a series of small, sweet, fast roads. This our last ride of the tour and one that’s all but unknown and rather beautifully defines everything these magical fat-tired road bikes are all about. You’ll roll into the hotel parking with huge grins and wishing like hell this wasn’t the end. Around 80 K (50 miles), 1990 vertical (6528 ft).
That’s it, seven days or rocking and rolling through the french Alps. Distance about 432 K (268 miles), vertical climbed about 13,141 meters (43,113 ft), and every single day another bucket list ride checked off. Price per person same as the first proposed tour, 1950€ (around 2400$, which changes constantly), based on single-occupancy in the hotels. Breakfast is included but neither lunch nor dinner. Once I know how many people have signed-on, I’ll renegotiate room prices with dinner included for most of the nights.
Bringing your own bike over isn’t necessary, though obviously preferred if you’ve got one that’s exactly what you like. The rides are way too good and unique to do with something that’s not right for you. But if you don’t want to haul a bike over there’s an excellent bike shop, bASECAMP, in Talloires above Lake Annecy, that rents what apparently are excellent fat-tired road bikes. My son, three of his buddies, and Blaise all used them and were universal in saying they were a total gas to ride. My son even said he would have been perfectly happy to have kept the one he was on, an Open, I don’t recall which model. This from a guy who has an impressive quiver of bikes, including a Moots Baxter for dirt roads and trails. One of the owners is Adam Horler, he’s english, good guy, they know their stuff there. Apparently they’ll change stems and stuff to make sure the bike’s right for you. Renting will be have to arranged between you and them or through me if needed as go-between and I’ll collect the bikes in advance so all is set to go when you arrive. Even better would be to come over early and go to the shop yourself and make sure the bike’s what you want.
This is a week of stunning rides, most like nothing you’ve ever done. Basically I’ve just serving up my best of the best, day after day, with an outstanding rider and person to show you the way, Blaise Verien, a professional guide from Chamonix. All you have to do is show up and ride. Just be ready to have all your preconceived ideas of what road riding is all about thorough shattered. Daily distances aren’t huge but the verticals can be impressive.
We’re talking an itinerary to showcase the magic these fat-tired road bikes are all about, extravagant mixes of surfaces these bikes will dance over. The tour’s all about saying, hey, you’ve got this fat-tired road bike you love, you’re feeling good, strong, solid, rocking and rolling with the best of ‘em, this is what you’ve absolutely gotta ride! You’re going to friggin love it! It’s the best, guaranteed. Day after day.
For years I’ve been writing about rides like these, posting pictures, with people always saying how they’d love to be able to ride them. Which would be awesome but the reality is that for most people doing so isn’t so easy. Some structure to make it happen is needed. Here it is, a structure so you at last ride these kinds of places. Otherwise you’ll just have to keep on looking at pictures and dreaming. Life’s too short to just dream.
If you have any friends who ride fat-tired road bikes, or gravel bikes if you prefer, and would love to ride roads like these, share this post with ‘em. Might be just what they’re dreaming about.
Kicks off with the shuttle from the airport to Bourg d’Oisans, the lodestone town for cyclists who love to climb. I read once that during the summer something like 1000 riders do Alpe d’Huez every day! Amazing! We are not doing Alpe d’Huez. It’s a good climb but, outside of its Tour de France history, it’s not one of the greatest french climbs. Lots of much more interesting climbs to do. Like the nearby Col du Sabot, both higher and steeper than Alpe d’Huez. Also somewhat unknown, even to french cyclists. Crazy road really, doesn’t go anywhere, ends in a notch high on the mountain. The Isère department’s highest paved col at 2100 meters (6889 ft). Gorgeous road, sweeping switchbacks snaking up through a wide, treeless basin of avalanche swept meadows. Like I said paved but the upper two-thirds so rustic at times you might wonder if it’s asphalt under the tires. The upper two-thirds is also a tight one-laner, sustained steep, lots of long double-digit ramps. For some reason I find it rides easier than the numbers. Maybe because the road is just such a joy to follow up the mountain. Finally gets easy at the very top just before ending in a small parking lot. Nothing there, just a hiking trail continuing up the mountain. Oh yea, the views are pretty amazing. In the far distance, Mont Blanc, in closer the Col du Glandon which we’ll cross in a couple of days. The descent is, in my opinion, friggin awesome, but demanding, about as technical as a paved road gets with the surface hopping around, lots of asphalt patches, usually lots of cow pies, in other words perfect for fat-tired road bikes. A good prologue ride, about 60 K (37 miles) with around 10 K on dirt roads along the river, 1630 vertical meters (5347 ft).
Day two, a road from my best of the best, also the tour’s longest dirt climb, the road to the Plateau d’Emparis followed by a trail to the day’s and tour’s high point, Col du Souchet, 2365 meters high (6890 ft), with a view to knock you off your bike. Starts with a shuttle to le Freney where we start riding. Up the highway to the Chambon dam, left turn into steep switchbacks to the village of Mizoën, at a good fountain we go right onto a steep one-laner, the climb to the Plateau d’Emparis. Asphalt for 2,5 K followed by 20 K of some of the finest dirt road you’ll ever ride. Amazingly smooth much of the time, steady climbing, 7-8%, sometimes 9%, eyeball-warping views the whole way up. The plateau, an undulating expanse of alpine prairies below summits and ridges, elevations over 2000 meters. This is where we catch the trail to the Col du Souchet, a col you’ve probably never heard of and one you’ll never forget. Around 170 vertical meters of climbing to get to it, mostly moderate grades but some steeper sections, at times technically challenging with the trail worn into a deep furrow over the years. The col itself is a broad, gentle saddle of grasses and wildflowers. You might not notice them. Filling the horizon and soaring into the sky are spires and faces of rock, ice, and snow, la Meige, summit 3764 meters (12,349 ft). You’ll want to hang on the col to take it all in. Next up almost 6 K of descending and traversing on a beautiful single-track of packed, smooth dirt. Spectacular isn’t a big enough word. Finally onto a ridge line above the small village of le Chazelet, in the distance the valley leading to the Col du Lautaret. Now the hardest part of the ride, a long series of rocky stackbacks, sometimes ridable, sometimes not, dependant on whether it rained a lot over the summer and if livestock used it. Finally blacktop again, up and over a small hill and down to the village of la Grave then through the gorge we were staring down into during the climb to the plateau and from the single-track. A magnificent day, 50 K (31 miles), 1875 vertical meters (6150 ft).
Day 3, shuttle up the road towards Col du Glandon. Yes, in the van, unless you want to ride it. The climb to Glandon is relatively easy but riding it all the way will make a long day way longer, in distance and vertical. Thus the shuttle to the big reservoir about 6 K below the col. Easy climb to the col followed by a screamer of a descent into the Maurienne Valley where we turn right and head to the beautiful stackbacks of Montvernier, in french the Lacets de Montvernier, a vertical work of art carved into a series of small cliffs. An elegantly crafted one-laner of smooth pavement twisting up the mountain via 17 switchbacks, a pure joy to ride. Followed by a steady climb up through alpine meadows and forests, across a rock cliff with the road blasted into a balcony, then more forests and alpine meadows and finally onto the Col du Chaussy, at 1533 meters (5029 ft) not particularly high. A fine climb. Followed by a wild mouse descent off the other side on a smooth one-laner (lots of blind turns) to the hamlet of Bonvillard where we jump onto a road I never tire of riding, at least mentally. Physically it always tires me. Starts off paved, fortunately because it’s also friggin steep at times, a tight one-laner through a light forest then through rolling prairies of grasses and flowers to Lac du Loup, more a large pond than a lake really, nestled in a small basin. Up a quick series of stackbacks above the lake, over a roll, more prairies sweeping across the heights and the road turns to dirt, fairly smooth much of the time but with rocky sections to stimulate the legs and line-picking skills. Lots of long, sweeping turns winding up to a ridge above the Longchamps ski resort. From the top of the ridge we’re looking straight up the valley back at the Col du Glandon, in the opposite direction the Col de la Madeleine. Fast run across the ski slopes, with one short but nasty climb, down to the road to the Col de la Madeleine and 3 K later on the col, 2000 meters (6562 ft). A fine ride with a crazy mix of conditions and views. And now a long, fast, fun descent to the valley floor where the van’s waiting for the shuttle to our hotel in Arêches where we’ll stay for two nights. A long day, around 90 K (56 miles), 2400 vertical up (7873 ft), almost 3700 vertical down (12100 ft).
Day 4, up through one of my favorite high alpine basins surrounded by undulating ridges and round summits, and at the head of the valley the Cormet d’Arêches, 2109 meters (6919 ft) high, a col rarely visited by road cyclists. The last 4 K on each side are dirt and every account I’ve read about riding this col says a mountain bike is required, which is rubbish. The surface is mostly easy rolling with only a few sections rocky enough that you’ll want to do a bit of line picking. To date the fattest tire I’ve ridden it with measured 25mm, barely. From the hotel to the col 14 K, 1100 meter rise (3608 ft), the first 7 K almost a normal road but narrow and often fairly steep, the next 3 K a one-laner, rustic asphalt hopping around over the contours, and the last 4 K dirt and steep, close to 10% in one section. As usual excellent views. Now we start working up onto and along a high ridge, part of the time on dirt roads, the rest of the time on single-tracks, sometimes easy, sometimes hard, sometimes technical. A good mix, lots of challenge, major fun. The highlight is a pure single-track for almost 2 K on top of this round, grassy ridge with huge views off both sides, particularly to the right with Lac de Roselend just below and in the distance the mass of Mont Blanc. The trail ends at a dirt/gravel road we’ll fly down to the Col du Pré. From the col down to Arêches is fast and furious, narrow road, gravity pulling hard, a dozen switchbacks stacked on a crazy steep hillside of hay, major smiles all the way down to out hotel. Roughly 40 K (25 miles), maybe 1625 vertical meters (5331 ft), relatively modest numbers but I think at the end you’ll feel like we did more.
Day 5, Col du Joly, 1989 meters (6525 ft), another col you might not know, another road that really doesn’t go anywhere, just to the top of a ridge with one more view to knock you off your bike. This time it’s Mont Blanc filling up the horizon, the close horizon, like really close. Actually there is a road down the other side, a dirt access road for the ski area on the back side. There’s a ski lift to the left of the col plus a restaurant with a huge deck to the right of the col. Unfortunately the restaurant won’t be open when we get there, off season, because a beer would go down well after the climb. The last 10 K average just over 8%, with ramps. What happens next isn’t finalized yet. It’s either drop back down the road we came up then climb to Col des Saisies or, preferrably, take a long and possibly amazing single-track across the flanks of a mountain to the Col de Véry, about 7 K away and damn near the same elevation, 1960 meters. I haven’t ridden the trail yet so can’t say absolutely how it’s going to be but from what I’ve been told, it’s totally ridable. All things being relative, ridable for one person isn’t necessarily the case for someone else so it needs to be checked out. On the assumption that what I’ve heard is correct, should be terrific, a fine, though at times technical, jaunt across the mountains. Followed by more ridge riding on dirt roads then a long descent down through the Megève ski resort and down the valley to our hotel at Praz sur Arly. About 45 K (28 miles) with 1700 vertical (5577 ft). If for some reason the trail isn’t what I’ve been told, we’ll do the climb up Mont Bissane, down to Col des Saisies, then up a series of good dirt roads to Col de Véry. Another excellent ride, just lots more asphalt and less adventure than the single-track across the mountain.
Day 6, I call it the Grand Traverse, a 15 K semi-jeep track from the Col des Aravis to the Col de l’Arpettaz, one of my all time favorite dirt tracks. I’ve ridden it at least half a dozen times and never tire of it. Officially called the Route de la Soif, loosely translated the road of thirst. Why, no idea. I call it the Grand Traverse because that’s what it is, a grand traverse across the flanks of a long, super steep mountain ridgeline. We start off from the hotel on small secondary roads wandering past homes and farms, direction Flumet and the start of the climb to Col des Aravis, 1486 meters (923 ft). Short and mostly easy climb up through the village of la Giettaz to the col where we turn left onto the Grand Traverse. Starts off a bit rocky then curls left into a small forest, pops out of the trees and smack into a magnificent view of Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles above the Chamonix valley. We’ll have that view for the next 15 K. The road’s a dirt and gravel track curling through steep sided basins, over a round ridge where we’ll hit the highest point of the day, 1758 meters (5768 ft), followed by a long, twisting descent into a the last basin of the day. The climb out of the basin isn’t long, only 100 or so vertical meters, but after all we’ve ridden so far it can seem long. The last bit is super easy so we can wheel onto the col looking fast and relaxed and ready to celebrate the crossing with some beers, if the restaurant is still open. Might already be closed for the season. And plunge that may be the best of the tour, down to Ugine on a one-laner, rustic asphalt, something like 44 switchbacks, the road constantly bucking and jiggling around. In other words a paved descent demanding a bit of technical prowess. I love it, always one of the very first to pop into my head when I start thinking about great descents. In Ugine we’ll either call it good after 50 K (31 miles) with 1400 meters (4593 ft) of climbing and 2000 meters (6561 ft) of descending and climb into the van or if there’s still energy to burn, we’ll do a series of fun roads in the hills and bypass Albertville to clock 80 K (50 miles) with 2134 meters (7000 ft) up and 2811 meters (9222 ft) down.
Day 7, last day and a totally local ride, in fact so local that I doubt anyone else does it. Road riders do part of it and mountain bikers do part but to do all of it a fat-tired road bike is pretty much needed. Around here there aren’t many people doing fat-tired road bikes, yet. Kicks off with what I call the Farmers TT, farm roads on the valley floor, a mix of paved and dirt one-laners. and totally flat. 15 K later we’re heading into the hills. A lot of weaving around, small roads mostly, then we hit the climb to the Col du Barrioz. Two roads to the col, we do the interesting one, a steep, narrow puppy. Not a big climb, the col’s only at 1038 meters, but you might think otherwise when we get to the col. Left turn onto a no-extra-space two-laner of rustic asphalt. Outside of one short section of flat and slight descent followed by a rude ramp of pain, it’s an easy, steady climb on mostly 7-8% grades. 5 K later the blacktop ends in the parking for a nordic ski area. We swing left onto a dirt road, up through some sweeping switchbacks, grades still around 8%, surface packed dirt. Grades go limp, road skirts a small meadow on top of the ridge, highest point of the day, 1700 meters (5577 ft). There’s a trail that keeps going up the ridge but after a K or so it hits a steep hill that’s definite hike-a-bike terrain. I haven’t gone up that yet but I know that afterwards the ridge isn’t far off flat so it might be possible to include the high ridge in a loop. Has to be checked out. Otherwise we ride back down to the nordic parking lot and hop onto a truly excellent jeep trail across the mountain to the Pipay ski station. About 10 K long, the first half smooth and fast, the second half a technical double-track that’s a gas to ride. Kind of crazy really because this thing is a fantastic ride and almost no one does it! It’s too easy for mountain bikers and road riders are totally blind to its existence. From Pipay back to our hotel is pretty much nothing less than a rollicking ramble across and down the mountain via a series of small, sweet, fast roads. This our last ride of the tour and one that’s all but unknown and rather beautifully defines everything these magical fat-tired road bikes are all about. You’ll roll into the hotel parking with huge grins and wishing like hell this wasn’t the end. Around 80 K (50 miles), 1990 vertical (6528 ft).
That’s it, seven days or rocking and rolling through the french Alps. Distance about 432 K (268 miles), vertical climbed about 13,141 meters (43,113 ft), and every single day another bucket list ride checked off. Price per person same as the first proposed tour, 1950€ (around 2400$, which changes constantly), based on single-occupancy in the hotels. Breakfast is included but neither lunch nor dinner. Once I know how many people have signed-on, I’ll renegotiate room prices with dinner included for most of the nights.
Bringing your own bike over isn’t necessary, though obviously preferred if you’ve got one that’s exactly what you like. The rides are way too good and unique to do with something that’s not right for you. But if you don’t want to haul a bike over there’s an excellent bike shop, bASECAMP, in Talloires above Lake Annecy, that rents what apparently are excellent fat-tired road bikes. My son, three of his buddies, and Blaise all used them and were universal in saying they were a total gas to ride. My son even said he would have been perfectly happy to have kept the one he was on, an Open, I don’t recall which model. This from a guy who has an impressive quiver of bikes, including a Moots Baxter for dirt roads and trails. One of the owners is Adam Horler, he’s english, good guy, they know their stuff there. Apparently they’ll change stems and stuff to make sure the bike’s right for you. Renting will be have to arranged between you and them or through me if needed as go-between and I’ll collect the bikes in advance so all is set to go when you arrive. Even better would be to come over early and go to the shop yourself and make sure the bike’s what you want.
This is a week of stunning rides, most like nothing you’ve ever done. Basically I’ve just serving up my best of the best, day after day, with an outstanding rider and person to show you the way, Blaise Verien, a professional guide from Chamonix. All you have to do is show up and ride. Just be ready to have all your preconceived ideas of what road riding is all about thorough shattered. Daily distances aren’t huge but the verticals can be impressive.
We’re talking an itinerary to showcase the magic these fat-tired road bikes are all about, extravagant mixes of surfaces these bikes will dance over. The tour’s all about saying, hey, you’ve got this fat-tired road bike you love, you’re feeling good, strong, solid, rocking and rolling with the best of ‘em, this is what you’ve absolutely gotta ride! You’re going to friggin love it! It’s the best, guaranteed. Day after day.
For years I’ve been writing about rides like these, posting pictures, with people always saying how they’d love to be able to ride them. Which would be awesome but the reality is that for most people doing so isn’t so easy. Some structure to make it happen is needed. Here it is, a structure so you at last ride these kinds of places. Otherwise you’ll just have to keep on looking at pictures and dreaming. Life’s too short to just dream.
If you have any friends who ride fat-tired road bikes, or gravel bikes if you prefer, and would love to ride roads like these, share this post with ‘em. Might be just what they’re dreaming about.