Difference in ETT - drop bar VS flat bar

[Clancy]

I have a frame that I’m contemplating building up as a flat bar city bike. Something to ride on the bike paths, downtown. A typical upright sitting position.

Question is, is this even feasible in terms of fit? I’m thinking I can use a shorter stem with a 17 degree or higher rise. But will the fit and handling both be a compromise?

Example, Salsa sells a model in both a flat bar and drop bar versions, but the frame sizes are different for each.

[EricEstlund]

Have you ridden the bike as a drop bar bike? If so, did you normally run on the tops, hoods, drops, etc?

Take a look at that hand position, see if you want to replicate it, and go from there. In very general terms, most drop bar bikes are designed around a hood/ drop reach, which is several inches in front of the stem clamp by nature of the shape of the bars. If that goes to a flat bar or a swept bar with the same stem, then you are automatically shortening the reach. Most folks run wider flat bars than drop bars, so the arm angle also influences perceived reach. If you want to maintain the reach, you need to look at a longer stem and possibly adjusting drop.

So, what changes you make will be based on what you are looking to keep or change in fit.

[cachagua]

Have you ridden the bike as a drop bar bike? If so, did you normally run on the tops, hoods, drops, etc?

Take a look at that hand position, see if you want to replicate it, and go from there... what changes you make will be based on what you are looking to keep or change in fit.



That makes a lot of sense. If you use a stem & bar that put your hands in pretty much the same spot as the other set-up, well then, you're in pretty much the same spot.

I brought this subject up with a bike builder a couple months back and he seemed to suggest that he'd either build me a drop-bar bike, or a flat-bar bike, but trying to do an either-or might compromise things considerably. I didn't really get to pin him down on that point, but he's got my deposit so I guess I'd better come to some sort of clarity with him.

I don't know why it shouldn't work. But I'll be interested to see what emerges in this thread.

[benb]

Something like a Jones loop h-bar can work pretty well for a conversion.

You can definitely make it work for a city bike. It probably works better on a more upright road bike or gravel bike.

[belopsky]

I swapped drop bars on my Gunnar for the Jones Bend H-bar. To get it setup comfortable/similar I actually got a stem that was 20mm longer

[dddd]

If the frame has quick, upright geometry, then the need for a longer stem with the upright bar will be doubly important to prevent outright twitchy steering.

If the grips will be back near the headtube, then a frame like a Schwinn Varsity with 70-degree angles will work the best.

[d_douglas]

My long-time commuter is a titanium Redline. I have used it both as a drop bar bike and a flat bar bike. I use a 110mm stem and Soma Hwy1 bar for road (as it is now) and I have a 140mm Ritchey FD stem that I flip down and use a 60cm flat bar when in flat mode. I found they were both equally comfortable.

The stretch is pretty huge on the flat bar setup to meet similar contact points, but a 140mm stem isn't unreasonable in my opinion.

This is all anecdotal, as it only applies to my bike and fit, but I thought it could be a good reference for what is possible.

[charliedid]

You just have to give it a whirl. Eric gave you a solid way to try and make a good guess but there is no formula really. My advice is a slightly sept back bar however.

Have fun.