Good chain lube article

[Alan]

I know we have beat this subject up a lot but this is a good article.

https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/fast-chain-lube-that-saves-you-money/

Have fun. I may actually change my tune on my chain lube as a result of this.

Alan

[fa63]

I saw it yesterday as well. I already use Silca NFS, but it does seem to attract a lot of grime. I might actually go crazy and give the UFO Drip a try :) I do get a nice employee discount, though even with that it is still crazy expensive for lube...

[Likes2ridefar]

UFO drip is only $75 with prime shipping.

[simplemind]

I'm always amazed that DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver (https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522247946&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+chain+lube) never gets reviewed. It ticks all the boxes and is relatively inexpensive on a per use basis. I don't put on the mileage that a lot of users have, but my chains (road & mtb) show very little wear.

[BdaGhisallo]

I saw it yesterday as well. I already use Silca NFS, but it does seem to attract a lot of grime. I might actually go crazy and give the UFO Drip a try :) I do get a nice employee discount, though even with that it is still crazy expensive for lube...

Do you wipe down the chain lightly after each ride or so? That's what NFS recommends. I use the original NFS which is very slightly heavier and if I am diligent with wiping the chain I can get a long time out of a single application.

[GregL]

I'm always amazed that DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver (https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522247946&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+chain+lube) never gets reviewed. It ticks all the boxes and is relatively inexpensive on a per use basis. I don't put on the mileage that a lot of users have, but my chains (road & mtb) show very little wear.
It's my understanding that DuPont Chain Saver is exactly the same as Finish Line Dry Lube. If I could find Chain Saver in the 4 oz. drip bottles at a reasonable price, I would certainly use it. Unfortunately, I have only been able to find it in the 11 oz. aerosol packaging. I prefer the drip bottles for cleaner, more efficient application. Too much of the aerosol spray goes to waste.

Greg

[Seramount]

they didn't test my lube of choice and since I have about a 10-year supply on hand, won't be changing brands...

[SpeedyChix]

I saw it yesterday as well. I already use Silca NFS, but it does seem to attract a lot of grime. I might actually go crazy and give the UFO Drip a try :) I do get a nice employee discount, though even with that it is still crazy expensive for lube...

Do you wipe your chain down after rides? Old tee shirts work good enough for it. That'll take care of the growing grime issue and keep things running smooth and quiet.

[simplemind]

It's my understanding that DuPont Chain Saver is exactly the same as Finish Line Dry Lube. If I could find Chain Saver in the 4 oz. drip bottles at a reasonable price, I would certainly use it. Unfortunately, I have only been able to find it in the 11 oz. aerosol packaging. I prefer the drip bottles for cleaner, more efficient application. Too much of the aerosol spray goes to waste.

Greg

Greg, the drip is better to keep it off the disc brakes too (ask me how I know)!

Here you go> Dupont CL (https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B008S7OG52/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522249606&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont%2Bchain%2Blube&th=1)

[BdaGhisallo]

they didn't test my lube of choice and since I have about a 10-year supply on hand, won't be changing brands...

What are you using?

[Mzilliox]

they didn't test my lube of choice and since I have about a 10-year supply on hand, won't be changing brands...

whats yours? I love the NFS stuff, but have had luck with others too.
i wipe down my chain every few rides and if its too dry, re lube.

[GregL]

Greg, the drip is better to keep it off the disc brakes too (ask me how I know)!

Here you go> Dupont CL (https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B008S7OG52/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522249606&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont%2Bchain%2Blube&th=1)
Appreciate the link. I'll stick with the Finish Line version for now since it's $2 cheaper at my LBS.

[simplemind]

Do you wipe your chain down after rides? Old tee shirts work good enough for it. That'll take care of the growing grime issue and keep things running smooth and quiet.

FYI all this talk about wiping down a chain is bogus, imo. When one "wipes", it really doesn't get the wear particles out of the area that causes wear to begin with. Just hit it with a strong stream of water and that will remove most of the grit and metal shavings much better than wiping. Use air or a terry towel to dry if you're worried about rusting, but that's unnecessary as well.

[AngryScientist]

been brewing my own for years. just got a bottle of the silca NFS for free with an order, so i'll use it and see how it compares, but overall and in general, chain lube is a big yawn.

keep the chain reasonably clean and lubed with something, anything so it doesnt squeak when you ride, and it's all good.

https://instagram.fewr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/vp/6bd4ea6827cf2231ab67d773e14f876a/5B715AC2/t51.2885-15/e35/27878984_1820392314920852_4338552675659415552_n.jp g

[Seramount]

What are you using?

Chain-L

[Lewis Moon]

been brewing my own for years. just got a bottle of the silca NFS for free with an order, so i'll use it and see how it compares, but overall and in general, chain lube is a big yawn.

keep the chain reasonably clean and lubed with something, anything so it doesnt squeak when you ride, and it's all good.



I had to use straight up WD40 in a pinch a couple of months back. I was pretty gobsmacked when it lasted the next 400 miles w/o issues.

[fiamme red]

Why all the fuss about lube? Just take your chain off after each ride and boil it in wax. :confused:

[parris]

Greg the DuPont lubes have been available at Lowes on and off for a few years. I picked up a few bottles of it and at that time it was around $3.00 a bottle.

[zennmotion]

I saw it yesterday as well. I already use Silca NFS, but it does seem to attract a lot of grime. I might actually go crazy and give the UFO Drip a try :) I do get a nice employee discount, though even with that it is still crazy expensive for lube...

If it's attracting grime you're using too much- just use 10 drops the first time (starting with a clean chain) and it stays clean. And you're overthinking it. It's lube, some people even swear by extra virgin olive oil (Andy Hampsten's attempt at World Domination?), I used chain saw oil-based homebrew lube for 30 years... Change is hard.

My name is Zen, and I am an NFS addict. Seriously, just RTFM, don't use too much and it's very cost effective -as in, for me 1 bottle 5 bikes, more than a year and I still have 1/3 bottle left that should last me most/all of this season. If you think you need more than 10 drops you're wrong, and your chain is dirty. And some of my annual bottle gets used on friends bikes as a very effective demo (want some free candy, little boy- drug dealer sales model). I have it on good authority that Herman Cain (remember that dude? 9-9-9!!!) is a former employee of NFS who was fired because he misinformed the customers. It's actually 10-10-10. 10 drops (I count every 8 links because I'm OCD but random works) then spin the cranks 10 times, shift through the cassette then spin the cranks 10 times again while you wipe it off. I wipe twice, again OCD. The stuff just works, sticks around in wet/gritty conditions but doesn't attract grime like other wet lubes. And even after a gritty muddy wet gravel ride, the most I do to clean is spin the chain through a soapy sponge, rinse with a water bottle and reapply. Usually just a quick wipe and reapply with just 6 drops after a couple hundred miles or so on the road bike. The NFS Plus stuff (which I think is the same as the Silca formulation) is more earth-friendly and odor-free than the original which is nice if you keep your bike in a living space I've only noticed it when the bike has been sitting inside my car in hot weather. I still prefer the original for wet weather, a slight preference for the Plus for gravel and road riding as it doesn't last quite as long, but it's a little easier to wipe clean from a dusty ride.

[zennmotion]

been brewing my own for years. just got a bottle of the silca NFS for free with an order, so i'll use it and see how it compares, but overall and in general, chain lube is a big yawn.

keep the chain reasonably clean and lubed with something, anything so it doesnt squeak when you ride, and it's all good.

[

Just start with a clean chain the first time and don't use too much. And you're understating the critical importance of the right chain lube in your life. Since I've switched from homebrew to NSF,

My world has changed from a dull gray and black blob marked with chainring tatoos to sparkles and unicorns.
My wife thinks I look younger and can't keep her hands off me.
I'm more horizontally stiff and vertically compliant (see above).
I hear Mozart and/or the Beatles every time I ride instead of chain squeaks.
I've lost weight and gained muscle.
I'm more productive at work when I don't worry about bike maintenance.
My cats respect me.

It's just stupid not to try it.

[fa63]

Do you wipe down the chain lightly after each ride or so? That's what NFS recommends.

Do you wipe your chain down after rides? Old tee shirts work good enough for it. That'll take care of the growing grime issue and keep things running smooth and quiet.

Not after each ride, but I wipe it down about once a week. But then I feel like I am just pushing the grime into the rollers...

If it's attracting grime you're using too much- just use 10 drops the first time (starting with a clean chain) and it stays clean.

I follow NFS' recommendation and do the "12-12-12" method.

Don't get me wrong; I think the NFS lube works fine (better than others I have tried), but I am always willing to experiment so I might just try out the UFO Drip :)

[Ralph]

I have been using White Lightning from Walmart lately. It's cheap, if applied lightly and wiped down before a ride, doesn't seem to attract much sand, lubes fine, and chains last as long for me as any other lube. it's all just lube to me and I've used the expensive stuff mentioned above.

[jinbok]

I use only 3-4 drops of Silca NFS and it's perfect. I think 10 might be too much.:eek:

[Seamus]

I took the plunge and put in an order for original NFS, after working thru a bottle of MucOff (and cringing a bit at the linked drivetrain maintenance costs in that article). MucOff Dry never seemed to last very long so required a re-lube about once a week, but generally was pretty clean.

I do appreciate CyclingTips deep-dive on the technical end with articles like this--I think they've had some really good content lately.

[Hamfist]

I guess I'm the only one that uses Molten Speed Wax? And yes, I have the slow cooker. The prep is actually pretty easy (i.e., stripping the factory anti-corrosion coating from the unused chain) and the actual waxing is trivial. The hardest part is actually freeing the cooled waxed chain so that you can route it through the rear derailleur. At this point (I've been using it for 2 years now) I don't plan on going back to a drip lube.

[Tickdoc]

Bit of a drift, but here is my homemade chain cleaner:

https://i.imgur.com/368g8rHl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2mQcGAFl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dGbLKevl.jpg

yes, those are toothbrushes. I fit them into a piece of pvc pipe with a split in it and it works great to blast and brush out debris.

i've used boeshield t9 for years and just recently switched to phils tenacious. It's so thick I think I'm going back to boeshield.

[simplemind]

Bit of a drift, but here is my homemade chain cleaner:

yes, those are toothbrushes. I fit them into a piece of pvc pipe with a split in it and it works great to blast and brush out debris.
.

OMG, that's the DIY of the week...maybe the month! Good job there Doc!

[donevwil]

Dumonde Tech?

[jemoryl]

I use only 3-4 drops of Silca NFS and it's perfect. I think 10 might be too much.:eek:

One thing I don't understand about NFS: if you only use 3-4, or even 10 drops, how do you distribute it evenly across all the links?

[Frankwurst]

One thing I don't understand about NFS: if you only use 3-4, or even 10 drops, how do you distribute it evenly across all the links?

Per NFS: Which is great stuff IMO:beer:

Basic instructions for use:

1. With your chain in the big ring and the smallest cog apply 8 to 10 drops of NFS at random and run the chain backwards to distribute the lube. A very good method is the 12:12:12 method. follow the instructions for chain position than add 12 random drops, rotate the chain 12 times than wipe it with a clean cotton cloth for 12 seconds.

2. The cogs will do the job of distributing the lube. Once all the lube has been distributed to the chain wipe any excess OFF the cog/chainring AND chain.

3. Done!

[eddief]

The recipe for the UltraFast lube itself is surprisingly simple: 1lb of "household paraffin wax", 5g of pure PTFE (Teflon) powder, and 1g of pure molybdenum disulfide (MoS2). The wax is first melted at approximately 180°F, the powders are added in, and the ingredients are thoroughly mixed with some sort of agitator (Smith uses a common battery powered milk frother).

[booglebug]

Ride around 5000 miles a year on gravel , mtn bike and road and have not went through a whole bottle of NSF in two years using 5 different bikes. Don’t know how it works so well applying just 8 drops but it has never let me down. What chain lube to use is a after though now.

[middec11]

Converted to waxing last year and I love it. Its only about a 10 minute job to do multiple chains and its worth the little extra work. Super quiet drivetrain on mtb road and gravel, lasts in all conditions for a long time, and its CLEAN. And you don't need the crock pot. Just a high temp plastic tub inside a pot of 2 inches of boiling water. Super easy and nothing to clean up.

[Cicli]

I have been on MSW for a few years. I do up 3-4 chains and swap them then do them again. Last about 500 miles before I swap. Love it. Clean and easy.

[cal_len1]

I'm switching to MSW this year, just seems better at...everything.

[jemoryl]

Per NFS: Which is great stuff IMO:beer:

Basic instructions for use:

1. With your chain in the big ring and the smallest cog apply 8 to 10 drops of NFS at random and run the chain backwards to distribute the lube. A very good method is the 12:12:12 method. follow the instructions for chain position than add 12 random drops, rotate the chain 12 times than wipe it with a clean cotton cloth for 12 seconds.

2. The cogs will do the job of distributing the lube. Once all the lube has been distributed to the chain wipe any excess OFF the cog/chainring AND chain.

3. Done!

So what is the physics of this miraculous spreading? What types of molecules are present that would cause 10 drops to adequately migrate to the inside pins in such a short process and how do they differ from plain old oil? Seriously curious about this and wonder why all lubricants are not of this type.

[Louis]

Seriously curious about this and wonder why all lubricants are not of this type.

For all we know, others may also disperse in the same way, perhaps no one's tried.

[zennmotion]

.

[zennmotion]

So what is the physics of this miraculous spreading? What types of molecules are present that would cause 10 drops to adequately migrate to the inside pins in such a short process and how do they differ from plain old oil? Seriously curious about this and wonder why all lubricants are not of this type.

This was my question, and I still have no understanding of how it works, but the guy who developed, (or adapted the mix for use as bike lube from another unrelated purpose) knows his stuff from a long career in the (petro engineering) industry and knows a thing or two about bikes. I just have the empirical evidence that it works- by direct observation that the links are all coated after a very small dosage and spinning the cranks, easy cleanup and silent parts. You might get a technical explanation across the hall or you might not. Better living through chemistry either way...

[ripvanrando]

A little lazy. Ultrasonic about every 1000 miles and MSW. In between, I use Squirt every 300-400 miles.

5,000 miles on current DA chain with no measurable wear.

[jemoryl]

This was my question, and I still have no understanding of how it works, but the guy who developed, (or adapted the mix for use as bike lube from another unrelated purpose) knows his stuff from a long career in the (petro engineering) industry and knows a thing or two about bikes. I just have the empirical evidence that it works- by direct observation that the links are all coated after a very small dosage and spinning the cranks, easy cleanup and silent parts. You might get a technical explanation across the hall or you might not. Better living through chemistry either way...

I enjoy 'across the hall' but there are a few sacred cows over there, and I wouldn't expect to get an unbiased explanation!

[gasman]

I enjoy 'across the hall' but there are a few sacred cows over there, and I wouldn't expect to get an unbiased explanation!

Josh who runs things over across the hall has always seemed like a good guy. He helped develop the lube (NFS) and I think he has a background or experience in mining . He’ll give you a straight answer. I do t fully understand how 12 drops will work but it been successful for me.

[etu]

I feel like an idiot.
I've been using NFS in the past year and put one drop per link! :bike:

[zennmotion]

I enjoy 'across the hall' but there are a few sacred cows over there, and I wouldn't expect to get an unbiased explanation!

Understood. Well, instead you got a biased, non-explanation from me over here!

[Cloozoe]

I’ve been reading references here to “across the hall” for years, but can’t find the hall so I have no idea what’s across it. If the name cannot be printed here would someone PM me and satisfy my curiosity?

[OtayBW]

So what is the physics of this miraculous spreading? What types of molecules are present that would cause 10 drops to adequately migrate to the inside pins in such a short process and how do they differ from plain old oil? Seriously curious about this and wonder why all lubricants are not of this type.My guess is that the fluid is thixotropic - e.g., thins or flows more easily while under shear (viscosity decreases while pedaling), AND recovers strength (viscosity increases) on removal of shear resulting in better adhesion. Has to do with structure, chain length, and surface chemistry of the polymers, etc. which are typically engineered to address some needed performance property for a particular application or piece of equipment.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it (no pun intended...)! :eek:

[jemoryl]

My guess is that the fluid is thixotropic - e.g., thins or flows more easily while under shear (viscosity decreases while pedaling), AND recovers strength (viscosity increases) on removal of shear resulting in better adhesion. Has to do with structure, chain length, and surface chemistry of the polymers, etc. which are typically engineered to address some needed performance property for a particular application or piece of equipment.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it (no pun intended...)! :eek:

Thanks. If a thixotropic fluid is optimal for lubricating bicycle chains then why haven't companies with much greater resources and experience (than whoever makes NFS - which I assume is a small outfit) stumbled upon this type of product? Why haven't they copied it? It is puzzling since NFS gets such rave reviews.

[OtayBW]

Thanks. If a thixotropic fluid is optimal for lubricating bicycle chains then why haven't companies with much greater resources and experience (than whoever makes NFS - which I assume is a small outfit) stumbled upon this type of product? Why haven't they copied it? It is puzzling since NFS gets such rave reviews.
Beats me. I am only speculating on how it works based on what I know about rheology, but it very plausible. I'm sure other technologies work also. That said, I have been using NFS myself for 2+ years now, and I seldom do more cleaning than a 2-minute chain wipe-down after every ride. Haven't found anything better yet.....

[Clancy]

.

This sums up the debate over lubes perfectly

[glepore]

For those that want to try the MSW approach, I've been using bulk paraffin mixed with powered PTFE (amazon) and MOs2 powder. The initial cost isn't much lower, but you end up with enough of the additives to do many x the amount of MSW.

[eddief]

ebay. a pound o wax and small amount of chemicals goes a really really long way.

For those that want to try the MSW approach, I've been using bulk paraffin mixed with powered PTFE (amazon) and MOs2 powder. The initial cost isn't much lower, but you end up with enough of the additives to do many x the amount of MSW.

[oldguy00]

For anyone who wants to try a really convenient wax lube, give this a try:

https://www.premierbike.com/products/premier-ultra-glide-chain-lubrication


I've used NFS and R&R Gold for years, and recently switched, really like this stuff!! Super smooth, clean, and not expensive. The Premiere bike and owner are very well respected on Slowtwitch, lots of folks buying his chains and chain lube.

[MikeD]

I feel like an idiot.

I've been using NFS in the past year and put one drop per link! :bike:


This 12-12-12 or whatever is BS. Doesn't work on a properly cleaned and degreased chain. NFS is thick and doesn't penetrate well either so I thin it with OMS. Of course if you're using it in a dirty chain with existing old lube already on it like most people do, then the 12-12-12 would work and maybe most other oiley lubes would as well.

[jemoryl]

For those that want to try the MSW approach, I've been using bulk paraffin mixed with powered PTFE (amazon) and MOs2 powder. The initial cost isn't much lower, but you end up with enough of the additives to do many x the amount of MSW.

Question on the Molybdenum Disulfide: I've used this in a pure powder form to lubricate threads that will where grease wasn't an option. It is graphite colored and easily gets all over everything (a little goes a long way). Any issues in this regard when added to the was lube?

[Black Dog]

I’ve been reading references here to “across the hall” for years, but can’t find the hall so I have no idea what’s across it. If the name cannot be printed here would someone PM me and satisfy my curiosity?

https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/

The velocipede salon forum is an offshoot of this forum.

[ripvanrando]

https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/

The velocipede salon forum is an offshoot of this forum.

sounds like crawling bug or something

[benb]

One of the graphs on cycling tips has Mobil 1 at like 1w worse than the best lube they tested.

But he doesn't have durability/cost #s for Mobil 1.

I think I have a quart or two of Mobile 1 sitting in my garage anyway...

[ripvanrando]

What does wiping the chain after every ride do other than drive contaminants into the pins and links thereby accelerating wear?

I never wipe. Chains rarely last.....less than 4,000 miles.

[ripvanrando]

One of the graphs on cycling tips has Mobil 1 at like 1w worse than the best lube they tested.

But he doesn't have durability/cost #s for Mobil 1.

I think I have a quart or two of Mobile 1 sitting in my garage anyway...

I have a gallon jug of 5W/40 Mobile 1 with a little left. I experimented. Ultrasonic. Soak in Mobil 1. Wax. I didn't see any difference but then again, a watt here, 5 watts there, and pretty soon it can add up. I also have used M1 from time to time straight up, I thought it better than some commercial bike lubes but not as good as Rock N Roll Gold. Cheap though

[benb]

The thing here is unless I order over the internet what Lube I end up with seems all over the map if I buy it from an LBS when I need it in a pinch.

I think I might have Rock and Roll on my shelf on deck.. I am going through a bottle of the WD40 Dry lube right now. The local Trek dealers seem to always have the WD40 bike lube and that lube does a decent job at cleaning the chain.

My winter/gravel/bad weather bike & MTB probably qualify as extreme contamination.

Riding the past month in winter conditions it's almost like cleaning the chain is pointless.. it's 100% contaminated and the pulley wheels are caked with mud/grime/whatever it is after 1 hour of road riding.

I actually just did a cursory cleaning of that bike this morning because the weather is finally improving to the point having it clean seems worthwhile.

Final thing the White Lightning Lubes have been available where I live at a lot the LBSes for years. I swear they are bad enough I could tell without doing any scientific testing.. it's like they pick up everything so fast you can actually feel the drag. Can we feel 10w since it sounds like his tests say some of the really bad lubes are almost that bad?

His dollar figures are so shocking it makes me think I need to change my behavior and order NFS over the internet and never mess with anything else...

[oldguy00]

..
His dollar figures are so shocking it makes me think I need to change my behavior and order NFS over the internet and never mess with anything else...

I think the dollar figures etc are BS marketing.
Are you really wearing chains out that quickly? Do you think you'll keep your chains that much longer be cause you switched lubes?
In 30 years of biking, I can't remember ever truly wearing out a chain or cassette, they just seem to work forever. I now replce my chain once a year, in May, just for the heck of it. Probably get a new Ultegra cassette once every 3 years. Regardless of what lube I use.
I'm sure NFS is an OK lube, worked OK for me, but was no cleaner, and maybe more dirty, than R&R gold when I used it.

[simonov]

Timeframe for chain replacement is useless. Chains aren't produce. They're wear items, so the only metric that matters is how many miles they last. Or how many kilometers if you swing that way.

[glepore]

What good does oiling before waxing do other than contaminate the wax?

For years I used Mobil One and OMS, mixed 40/60 or so, but got tired of marks on my car trunk carpeting from the chain. Keep several chains in rotation and wax, do them all more or less at once, might wax once every 2 months or so while doing other tuneup work. No mess, no fuss, really.

[C40_guy]

Thanks. If a thixotropic fluid is optimal for lubricating bicycle chains then why haven't companies with much greater resources and experience (than whoever makes NFS - which I assume is a small outfit) stumbled upon this type of product? Why haven't they copied it? It is puzzling since NFS gets such rave reviews.

Same reason that gyms don't call to ask why you haven't shown up lately.

The biggies don't want you to use 10 drops every six months...they want you to use 10 ozs (or more)...

[benb]

I think the dollar figures etc are BS marketing.
Are you really wearing chains out that quickly? Do you think you'll keep your chains that much longer be cause you switched lubes?
In 30 years of biking, I can't remember ever truly wearing out a chain or cassette, they just seem to work forever. I now replce my chain once a year, in May, just for the heck of it. Probably get a new Ultegra cassette once every 3 years. Regardless of what lube I use.
I'm sure NFS is an OK lube, worked OK for me, but was no cleaner, and maybe more dirty, than R&R gold when I used it.

Who knows what's going on but hell yes, I wear out all of those items regularly.

Chainrings last WAY longer than cassettes for me but I have worn chainrings out. Cassettes last me in the range of 4000-5000 miles. Usually toast by the time the chain is worn, shifting will be degraded (skipping on the cogs under high power) if I don't replace the cassette. Groups with fewer than 10 speeds lasted a little longer, but not 2X longer.

Who knows, I have no idea what your weather conditions are like or your power output is like.

If you wear your chainrings out, you will know. It is downright scary if you go to "jump" and you skip the chain on the chainring, you feel lucky not to have crashed.

If the right lube & maintenance regime got me 10,000 miles out of a chain + cassette it'd be worth it for sure, and this study is claiming some of the waxes go a lot longer than that.

The wax stuff sounds like too much work though, and I'd have to recoup the cost of a slow cooker or whatever to heat wax in. My wife wouldn't let me do the wax in the house, I'm sure of it.

[C40_guy]

The wax stuff sounds like too much work though, and I'd have to recoup the cost of a slow cooker or whatever to heat wax in. My wife wouldn't let me do the wax in the house, I'm sure of it.


Just wait until she's out.

Then wash all the parts in the dishwasher and use the spaghetti pot to warm the wax and dip the chain.

Make sure everything is clean before she comes home...

:)

[ripvanrando]

What good does oiling before waxing do other than contaminate the wax?



Hey, cut this little squirt some slack.

Squirt on top of an waxed chain has low friction. Squirt contains around 25% Slack oil but Squirt is very expensive compared to a bag of fancy wax. I was just messing trying to save some money to spend on tires. I'll defer to the Organic Chemists, though.

[MikeD]

Question on the Molybdenum Disulfide: I've used this in a pure powder form to lubricate threads that will where grease wasn't an option. It is graphite colored and easily gets all over everything (a little goes a long way). Any issues in this regard when added to the was lube?


I would think it would make the wax dirty, which defeats one of wax's supposed advantages (its cleanliness). Why do you need both PTFE and MoS2? Why not use just one? Seems like an unscientific shotgun approach to me.

[savechief]

It seems like a lot of people are overthinking trying to extend the life of a wear item that isn't expensive to replace. You can buy an Ultegra 11-speed chain for $25.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[eddief]

Indeed.

It seems like a lot of people are overthinking trying to extend the life of a wear item that isn't extensive to replace. You can buy an Ultegra 11-speed chain for $25.

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[glepore]

It seems like a lot of people are overthinking trying to extend the life of a wear item that isn't extensive to replace. You can buy an Ultegra 11-speed chain for $25.

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It may be. The last time I changed the wax I forgot the moly, and noticed no real difference. The amount of moly in the wax doesn't really make it dirty though.

[eddief]

Your chain way down there by your feet is being eaten alive while you are way up on top snorting oxygen.

It may be. The last time I changed the wax I forgot the moly, and noticed no real difference. The amount of moly in the wax doesn't really make it dirty though.

[OtayBW]

Same reason that gyms don't call to ask why you haven't shown up lately.

The biggies don't want you to use 10 drops every six months...they want you to use 10 ozs (or more)...
That's a good point. The NSF is costly at ~$15 per bottle last I checked. I have 2 bottles, however, and in 2 years, I'm not even very far into the first bottle.

For me, the bottom line is that whatever the mechanism, this lube does indeed penetrate well into the rollers with even a very minor application, as judged by the clear reduction in drive train noise and smooth ride. Relubing is easily into the hundreds of miles. I'm not trying to be a fanboy here. I've been happy with other lubes over the years, but this one works well for me.....

[booglebug]

That's a good point. The NSF is costly at ~$15 per bottle last I checked. I have 2 bottles, however, and in 2 years, I'm not even very far into the first bottle.

For me, the bottom line is that whatever the mechanism, this lube does indeed penetrate well into the rollers with even a very minor application, as judged by the clear reduction in drive train noise and smooth ride. Relubing is easily into the hundreds of miles. I'm not trying to be a fanboy here. I've been happy with other lubes over the years, but this one works well for me.....

+1, I have a 2 year old bottle as well

[joosttx]

+1, I have a 2 year old bottle as well

I ride in the grime and dust most of the time. I put the same amount of NFS on my chain but will put it on more frequently. I still have a bottle that is two years old. That calculates to $0.00113336 dollars per mile. This is a rough estimation and please remember I am a heavy user.

[ripvanrando]

It seems like a lot of people are overthinking trying to extend the life of a wear item that isn't expensive to replace. You can buy an Ultegra 11-speed chain for $25.

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It is not so much the $45 Dura Ace chain, it is the increased friction and the $400 cassette and then there are the chainrings, too.

A poorly maintained chain can cost you 5 watts easily.

I know I worked really, really hard to gain like 15 lousy watts on my FTP. Pathetic but I worked hard to get those.

Why piss 1/3 of those gains down the drain with poor chain care.

[Cicli]

I ride for the exercise. Rusty chains and airless tires reduce the need for a good saddle. Win/win. :banana:

[weisan]

I had to use straight up WD40 in a pinch a couple of months back. I was pretty gobsmacked when it lasted the next 400 miles w/o issues.

Like clamping on the top tube, I been using WD-40 for the last 30+ years.
Yes, I am a non-conformist.
And yes, all my bikes have a different setback and reach.

[zap]

I fiddled with chain lube and god, wax. Wax was a total waste of time. The last decade and a half I'm like eff it.

Ten and Eleven speed chains need to be swapped out every 2-3K miles if you want to keep your ti cassette for 20K miles. By the time your chain checker indicates it's time to replace, it's too late.

New chain factory lube is best. Nothing comes close. Hot dipped and it's in there. Cost you a watt or two initially but lasts about half the life of the chain in dry cleaner conditions.

After that, clean the chain as much as possible then use NFS (it is very good) for the remaining 1-2k miles.

[benb]

I know I worked really, really hard to gain like 15 lousy watts on my FTP. Pathetic but I worked hard to get those.

Why piss 1/3 of those gains down the drain with poor chain care.

Good job... I'm working pretty hard and I'd be psyched to pick up 15w too. That's not pathetic.

[gdw]

One of the graphs on cycling tips has Mobil 1 at like 1w worse than the best lube they tested.

But he doesn't have durability/cost #s for Mobil 1.

I think I have a quart or two of Mobile 1 sitting in my garage anyway...

A quart of Mobile 1 and a gallon of white gas will last you, your friends, and family a lifetime. Mix 3 to 1, gas to oil, for wet conditions and 4 to 1 for dry. It's too bad they didn't include it in their test.

[middec11]

Question for the mobil 1 users out there. What is it about mobil 1 that's special? Wouldn't any motor oil of the same weight do the same thing on a bicycle chain? There is no heat to break it down on a bicycle drivetrain so why not light dino oil?

[gdw]

I use whatever is in the storage shed. A quart of Mobile 1 was there when I moved in so I use it. 10-30, 10-40, chainsaw oil, etc all work very well.

[oldguy00]

Just because:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8j5-dC6_x8

:)

[NHAero]

A new chain has factory lube on it. What's the first step before your lube of choice?

[Seramount]

A new chain has factory lube on it. What's the first step before your lube of choice?

wipe with old t-shirt, ride until noisy (usually ~200 miles), apply lube of choice.

[Mikej]

The factory lubes the plates prior to assembly, that is why its so awesome to put on a new chain. Did the test include a straight from the wrapper untouched chain?

[ripvanrando]

A new chain has factory lube on it. What's the first step before your lube of choice?

I ride it for a few hundred and if really zealous, I soak in lacquer thinner before waxing. If not so zealous, the new unused chain goes into the ultrasonic and then dried and heated and into speedwax.

[BdaGhisallo]

The factory lubes the plates prior to assembly, that is why its so awesome to put on a new chain. Did the test include a straight from the wrapper untouched chain?

That goop may have some lubricating properties but isn't its primary function to protect the chain from corrosion for however long it may sit before it is sold and used?

[zap]

That goop may have some lubricating properties but isn't its primary function to protect the chain from corrosion for however long it may sit before it is sold and used?

What you get out of the wrapper from Shimano and Campagnolo is the best chain lubricant. In my estimation as much as 4x longer than some of the Finish Line products.

https://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/chainwear-challenge-quick-interview-with-shimano/

[AngryScientist]

i would agree that with campy and KMC chains at least, if there is no wet weather, i can get many hundreds of miles on a brand new chain with the factory applied lube/coating before i need to put anything on the chain.

[colker]

If you wear your chainrings out, you will know. It is downright scary if you go to "jump" and you skip the chain on the chainring, you feel lucky not to have crashed.



I fell hard and hit my head on the road due to a worn chainring. Lesson learned: always check for wear.

[Johnnysmooth]

Over the decades have tried about everything, from waxing, to home-brews to commercial lubes and olive oil. Some lubes are good, some so-so, some terrible.

What I've settled on...
When the chain starts to make noise, however slight, time to ck and probably lube.
First do cursory wipe of chain, sometimes I'll use WD40 to help clean
Do the drip method on roller-links - I like Rock&Roll and Rolhoff lubes - latter higher viscosity, better for MTB
Spin for about 30 or so seconds.
Wipe off excess
Good to go.

It's a simple approach and gets the job done without too much fuss

[Tony]

Over the decades have tried about everything, from waxing, to home-brews to commercial lubes and olive oil. Some lubes are good, some so-so, some terrible.

What I've settled on...
When the chain starts to make noise, however slight, time to ck and probably lube.
First do cursory wipe of chain, sometimes I'll use WD40 to help clean
Do the drip method on roller-links - I like Rock&Roll and Rolhoff lubes - latter higher viscosity, better for MTB
Spin for about 30 or so seconds.
Wipe off excess
Good to go.

It's a simple approach and gets the job done without too much fuss

Same, but no olive oil and no wipe down W/WD40.
Do 60% mtbing, 40% road, settled on Dumonde Tech. I use it on all my bikes now. Its excellent on 1X drivetrains, helps quite down drivetrains with not so good chain line/cross over. I don't care for the initial smell when applying.

[fiamme red]

Chain cleaning, a complete guide from lazy to obsessive: https://cyclingtips.com/2018/05/chain-cleaning-and-maintenace-how-to/.

[Ozz]

I use ATB (Absolutely The Best) lube...bought a few bottles about 6 years ago....I have no idea if the guy making it is even still in business.

I am drawing a blank on the forum member name (Handlebra guy, hates the Fed, etc) recommended it.

Good stuff....a little goes a long way....not as finicky to apply as Dumonde Tech

[Mike Bryant]

Personally I would never use gasoline to cut Mobile 1 oil (as was posted earlier). Just too dangerous.
I might use kerosene which is much less volatile.
The flash point of gasoline is -45F. So it practically is always at a temperature to ignite. Kerosene’s flash point is 100-162F.
Just thinking of safety.


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[simplemind]

I use ATB (Absolutely The Best) lube...bought a few bottles about 6 years ago....I have no idea if the guy making it is even still in business.

I am drawing a blank on the forum member name (Handlebra guy, hates the Fed, etc) recommended it.

Good stuff....a little goes a long way....not as finicky to apply as Dumonde Tech

A little help from your friends!

https://www.bikegallery.com/product/a.t.b.-absolutely-the-best-atb-chain-lubricant-10322.htm

[gdw]

Making Homebrew with white gas is about as dangerous as filling the tank of your lawnmower, snowblower, leaf blower, camping stove, etc. Just stay away from open flames and you'll be fine.

[Chief]

Personally I would never use gasoline to cut Mobile 1 oil (as was posted earlier). Just too dangerous.
I might use kerosene which is much less volatile.
The flash point of gasoline is -45F. So it practically is always at a temperature to ignite. Kerosene’s flash point is 100-162F.
Just thinking of safety.


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Why is this anymore dangerous then working with the 40 to 1 ratio of 2-cycle fuel or for thar matter straight gas?

[Ozz]

A little help from your friends!

https://www.bikegallery.com/product/a.t.b.-absolutely-the-best-atb-chain-lubricant-10322.htm

And there it is! Gracias.....I am headed to Portland this morning.

[BdaGhisallo]

And there it is! Gracias.....I am headed to Portland this morning.

I used ATB before I started using NFS lube. It's good stuff and I still have a fair number of bottles of it.

The guy who made it was Keith Lewis. I believe he was out in Arizona somewhere.

[Mike Bryant]

Why is this anymore dangerous then working with the 40 to 1 ratio of 2-cycle fuel or for thar matter straight gas?



I refuel with gasoline outdoors with plenty of ventilation. Lube my bicycle chain indoors.
So if you refuel your car or small combustion engines indoors, it’s not anymore dangerous.
For me, gasoline goes from tank to tank, trying to minimize and ventilate fumes.
My background is in the fire service and I’ve seen way too many horrible consequences of misusing gasoline.
If I need to thin an oil or wash parts, kerosene is a much safer alternative.


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[Ralph]

A friend of mine had his $700,000 house burn completely down......when the maid took some trash to the garbage can in the garage, caused a spark from the lid, and fumes from some ski boat fuel (properly contained in a gas container) ignited from the spark. Gasoline is dangerous stuff in enclosed area.

[dddd]

I had brief sponsorship from White Lightning and ended up with a case of the stuff, the original 1990's formula that had it's weaknesses but which contained mostly a fast-drying solvent called hexane which checked all the boxes that I find to be important for a chain lube solvent (or diluent).
Kerosene dries rather slowly, so unless one gets almost all of the mix out of their chain by thorough wiping with a terrycloth and with a lot of flexing and actuating of the rollers, there is a good chance that some of the lube mix is going to fly off and get in the spokes and on the rim and tire. This is why I don't use WD40 as a solvent to which I might add oil, even though I have over a gallon of the stuff right here that I bought at a garage sale for a couple of dollars.
So in lieu of buying hexane, I buy a 12oz spray can of dry lubricant, which is hexane mixed with PTFE particulate and which is very fast drying with very little smell.
I first put the spray lube into an old White Lightning 4oz squeeze bottle with an added applicator tube having a very small I.D., then I add a small percentage (15-25% depending on conditions) of oil to it. I then throw in a few M5 hex nuts to give fast agitation of the mix when it's time to lube the chain.
The bottle configuration is KEY to making this process so quick and easy that the whole clean and wipe process takes as little as one minute.
So on goes the lube in a continuous stream on top of the chain moving backwards atop one of the rear cogs (I rest my knuckles against the spokes to steady my aim). A couple/few crank revolutions later, the chain is lubed, in one or two complete passes of the chain depending on conditions and on how much cleaning action that I am trying to effect.
A wipe-down process follows with a (doesn't have to be new or even clean) terry cloth shop towel, and the bike is literally ready to ride or can be left to dry out more completely if I do this before putting the bike away.

I actually get comments from time to time, from people who ask how I keep my chain so clean and what kind of lube that I use. It helps that I do this quick re-lube every five rides or so, because it is so quick, and I get almost no lube reappearing on the outside of the chain after riding because the lube is sufficiently diluted so as to leave only enough oil remaining inside of the chain.
And the chain runs very quiet, though I can't really say how much that the PTFE in the spray is helping. I think it reduces friction at the side plates when cross-chaining, but PTFE is actually not an extreme-pressure lubricant of the type that would much prevent wear at the more highly-loaded pin surfaces. I use mostly Shimano or KMC chain and they seem to wear slowly relative to some other chains that I used in the past.