What is this tool for?

[adavco]

Anyone know what this tool is for? Park tool G299. I googled it and couldn’t find any answers.. it sure looks useful.

[KJMUNC]

guessing a chain tool?

[Delpo]

Spoke wrench?

[monkeytusmc]

Anyone know what this tool is for? Park tool G299. I googled it and couldn’t find any answers.. it sure looks useful.



Park tool cotter pin press


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[monkeytusmc]

Park tool cotter pin press


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http://www.bikerecyclery.com/vintage-park-tool-cr-2-cotter-pin-press/

[adavco]

Park tool cotter pin press


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Thanks!!

[alancw3]

Park tool cotter pin press


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are you referring to the pinned cranks of old?

[Cicli]

are you referring to the pinned cranks of old?

Cottered cranks. Yes.

[paredown]

Funny--I decided to google because 'cotter' is a funny word--

In the US (at least according to Wiki)--'Cotter pin' refers to the split pin type where you bend the tabs, while just plain 'cotter' refers to the bike variant.

In the UK, they refer to the bike type as 'cotter pin', and the other as a split pin...

So as a compromise they are now referring to the split type as a 'split cotter' to avoid confusion.

Two countries divided by a common language.

[pinkshogun]

happens to be my favorite tool. i use mine on occasion...old english 3 speeds mostly

[bikinchris]

You people that didn't know are showing your age. I needed mine to work on an Airdyne recently.

[Calnago]

Or, the people that did know are showing their age. :)
Fancy people had the tool. As a kid I’d just use the hammer and screwdriver to punch it out.

[froze]

I use to have one of those years and years ago when I had to take apart my cottered crank. I don't know what happened to it over the years but I no longer have it, nor do I need it.

[adavco]

Or, the people that did know are showing their age. :)
Fancy people had the tool. As a kid I’d just use the hammer and screwdriver to punch it out.

When I was a kid carbon fiber cranks were all the rage! ;)

[oliver1850]

Funny--I decided to google because 'cotter' is a funny word--

In the US (at least according to Wiki)--'Cotter pin' refers to the split pin type where you bend the tabs, while just plain 'cotter' refers to the bike variant.

In the UK, they refer to the bike type as 'cotter pin', and the other as a split pin...

So as a compromise they are now referring to the split type as a 'split cotter' to avoid confusion.

Two countries divided by a common language.

I do see the split pin designation used in parts manuals for US made farm and lawn equipment, but cotter pin is more often used in the vernacular.

[Anarchist]

When I was a kid I used a block of wood and a ball peen hammer.

Couldn’t afford the fancy stuff.

[froze]

When I was a kid I used a block of wood and a ball peen hammer.

Couldn’t afford the fancy stuff.

By hitting the crank with a hammer of any sort you did take a chance of damaging the bearing cups and cones, but usually that only happened if the parts rusted or corroded together and the person just started wailing on it with all they had.

When I got my first 10 speed bike, used, the guy threw in several tools including the press thing; a barbell shaped hexicon wrench with a bunch of hex shaped openings on each end (not sure what happened to that either), a wire spring shaped thing that you can go between the spokes with grab the brake pad nut with the one end then lock the other end around the opposite pad nut, this kept the pads tight against the rim so you detach or attach the cable to center pull brakes (I found out later most used a toe strap for the same effect), i still have that tool; and a round spoke tool that have slot for several size spokes, that one I threw away because the tolerances were too loose and would round off the nipples. All those tools I could find pictures for and are still made today, though the brake tool was a bit tougher to find but after much searching I found it: http://www.bikerecyclery.com/third-hand-tool-caliper-road-brakes/ And they seem to be a few on Ebay as well.

[Mark McM]

By hitting the crank with a hammer of any sort you did take a chance of damaging the bearing cups and cones, but usually that only happened if the parts rusted or corroded together and the person just started wailing on it with all they had.

Jobst Brandt (from beyond the grave) disagrees with you. In an article about fretting corrosion in headsets (the actual source of headset pitting), he compared pounding on cotters with a hammer to the pounding that headsets receive while riding:


Because fretting involves invisibly small motion, it remains difficult to understand and hard to convey to the user who suffers fretting symptoms on a piece of machinery. It was long believed that impact causes Brinelling of bicycle head bearings even though mechanics who installed cottered cranks should have noticed an inconsistency in that pounding in cotters with a large hammer with all the shock taken up by one 1/4" ball under the crank spindle never caused a dent, yet 20 balls loaded by a much smaller force through a rubber tire was believed to cause dimpled head bearings. Beyond that, the top bearing that carries practically no load and receives no impact, also became dimpled and, like the bottom load bearing one, did so in the fore and aft quadrant. These dimples were not shin,y as Brinell indentations are, but have a milky finish typical of tear-outs from asperity welding.


https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/fretting.html

[froze]

Jobst Brandt (from beyond the grave) disagrees with you. In an article about fretting corrosion in headsets (the actual source of headset pitting), he compared pounding on cotters with a hammer to the pounding that headsets receive while riding:





https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/fretting.html

Well you did quote Sheldon Brown except he did say this: "The pipe will transmit the impact of the hammer to the floor, so as not to damage the bearing cups or axle cones." So if done incorrectly, which a lot of people did, you can damage the bearing cups and cones. Most people who worked on their bikes at home back in the day had no idea how to remove a stubborn cotter, so they just started wailing away at it with a hammer and a punch, I saw a few of those things having to get all new bearing cups and cones after the attacks.

I went to a friends house who had been banging away at his for hours and couldn't get it to budge, so I brought my tool thinking I'll show him but it didn't work either, we couldn't get enough leverage on it and the cheater bar was bending the arm, so we needed something stronger, my friend had a table vise which we disconnected from the table and hooked it up with a socket large enough for the pin to go through and then squished the vise tight with the aid of the cheater bar and it finally popped through with a lot of pressure, I was standing doing little jumps on the cheater bar trying to get it as tight as possible. But he needed new cubs and cones afterwards due to all the blasting he did against the cotter. And yes he had used plenty of penetrating oil. He also damaged his ring gear when he missed with the hammer a couple of times but he didn't have a bar to place against the pin and then hit the bar, so I kind of understood that issue, besides the ring gear was worn anyways.

[pinkshogun]

Here she is resting comfortably...

[Kontact]

That was an important tool to own if you didn't have a hammer.