Difference between the 2 types of Campag SR 11 brakes

[Mattbotak]

Purchasing a set of Campag SR 11sp brakes from 2016+ group and see there are 2 types available. Does anybody know the differences between the 2 versions. It’s about a $40 difference in price. Thanks, Matthew

[oldpotatoe]

Purchasing a set of Campag SR 11sp brakes from 2016+ group and see there are 2 types available. Does anybody know the differences between the 2 versions. It’s about a $40 difference in price. Thanks, Matthew

Don’t have the catalog but single pivot rear/ dual pivot front and dual pivot both ends? Hint-get the dual DP.

[Mark McM]

Don’t have the catalog but single pivot rear/ dual pivot front and dual pivot both ends? Hint-get the dual DP.

While I know that he Dual Pivot rear is more popular, the single pivot rear makes a lot more sense to me:

- The rear brake can provide only a fraction of the braking force as the front brake (due to the rear tire skidding at well below the brake force of the front tire). The lower leverage of a single pivot brake reduces the chance of rear pivot skid, and shifts the total braking power more toward the front brake.

- Rear wheels have more lateral flex, and can sometimes rub the brake pads when riding out of the saddle. A single pivot rear brake has more pad clearance, decreasing the chances of brake rub.

- A single pivot brake requires a shorter cable pull, so the extra compression in the longer rear cable/housing has less affect on lever travel.

And just to add a cherry on top, the single pivot rear brake is also lighter.

[AngryScientist]

i always opt for the single pivot rear. makes a lot of sense to me for the reasons outlined above.

[RobJ]

While I know that he Dual Pivot rear is more popular, the single pivot rear makes a lot more sense to me:

- The rear brake can provide only a fraction of the braking force as the front brake (due to the rear tire skidding at well below the brake force of the front tire). The lower leverage of a single pivot brake reduces the chance of rear pivot skid, and shifts the total braking power more toward the front brake.

- Rear wheels have more lateral flex, and can sometimes rub the brake pads when riding out of the saddle. A single pivot rear brake has more pad clearance, decreasing the chances of brake rub.

- A single pivot brake requires a shorter cable pull, so the extra compression in the longer rear cable/housing has less affect on lever travel.

And just to add a cherry on top, the single pivot rear brake is also lighter.

I really never thought about it this way but this was a very useful, informative post.

[pdmtong]

While I know that he Dual Pivot rear is more popular, the single pivot rear makes a lot more sense to me:

- The rear brake can provide only a fraction of the braking force as the front brake (due to the rear tire skidding at well below the brake force of the front tire). The lower leverage of a single pivot brake reduces the chance of rear pivot skid, and shifts the total braking power more toward the front brake.

- Rear wheels have more lateral flex, and can sometimes rub the brake pads when riding out of the saddle. A single pivot rear brake has more pad clearance, decreasing the chances of brake rub.

- A single pivot brake requires a shorter cable pull, so the extra compression in the longer rear cable/housing has less affect on lever travel.

And just to add a cherry on top, the single pivot rear brake is also lighter.

If you are heavier, get the DP.
If you are under 180, I doubt it matters

- skid. I dont worry about because I have adapted how i squeeze given the rear comes on more powerfully

- pad clearance...I dont understand this comment. dont you set up your brakes with the pad clearance you want, regardless of single or dual pivot? if the brakes are not engaged, the flexing wheel has no idea if the pads are connected to a single or dual

- cable pull...i have not noticed this at all since I end to like my brakes set up with 1/3 throw before the pads contact. doing this lets the lever get closer to the bar here I can squeeze it with more leverage.

BTW I dont have my hands on my hips writing this. we all have our opinions and it's great to hear yours
watch the brake video on the campy site...you would think anyone not riding DP is in big trouble...

the other aspect is that single pivot offers more vertical tire clearance. as has been discussed elsewhere on the forum, I went through single and dual different generation. 2011 chorus DP dont vertically clear as well as 2015 chorus DP despite campag North america claiming they are identical. I have no idea how this translates to R or SR .... i went with Chorus on an older bike with 10sp since the BR15-CHDP brakes were $78....and SR was $200+ .

[Mattbotak]

Wow! There is so much I did not know. Thank you so much for these details and everyone elses input.

While I know that he Dual Pivot rear is more popular, the single pivot rear makes a lot more sense to me:

- The rear brake can provide only a fraction of the braking force as the front brake (due to the rear tire skidding at well below the brake force of the front tire). The lower leverage of a single pivot brake reduces the chance of rear pivot skid, and shifts the total braking power more toward the front brake.

- Rear wheels have more lateral flex, and can sometimes rub the brake pads when riding out of the saddle. A single pivot rear brake has more pad clearance, decreasing the chances of brake rub.

- A single pivot brake requires a shorter cable pull, so the extra compression in the longer rear cable/housing has less affect on lever travel.

And just to add a cherry on top, the single pivot rear brake is also lighter.

[tuscanyswe]

I like which ever im used to tbh. I have no preference for one or the other but if i have ridden single pivots campy for a while on the rear and then switch to a bike with double (as i have both) it takes bit of time to not make the rear skip. More so than id first think but i remember last summer that it was almost a week till i had it down. Going the other way is obviously not as much of a problem

[FlashUNC]

Or just get Mavic SSCs and enough braking force to stop the planet's axial rotation.

[pjm]

I have the single pivot rear because I like the way it looks.:)

[Mark McM]

- pad clearance...I dont understand this comment. dont you set up your brakes with the pad clearance you want, regardless of single or dual pivot? if the brakes are not engaged, the flexing wheel has no idea if the pads are connected to a single or dual

- cable pull...i have not noticed this at all since I end to like my brakes set up with 1/3 throw before the pads contact. doing this lets the lever get closer to the bar here I can squeeze it with more leverage.

This is just simple physics. Leverage (caliper "squeeze" force for a given lever "squeeze" force) and cable travel are inversely related. A high leverage caliper will produce a higher stopping for the same hand force, but moving the pads will require a proportionately larger lever movement. A dual pivot caliper has about 50-60% higher leverage than a single pivot caliper, and therefore a 50-60% higher lever travel.

If you set up a single pivot caliper and a dual pivot caliper for the same lever travel before the pads contact the rim, the dual pivot caliper's brake pads will move a 50-60% shorter distance for that lever travel, and will therefore need to be set with 50-60% less pad clearance.

[Mattbotak]

Or should I just stick with EE brakes?

[Bostic]

Or just get Mavic SSCs and enough braking force to stop the planet's axial rotation.

I'm still sitting on a set that I've had for the last decade but haven't used for a couple of years. It's too bad they didn't update the design for wider tire profiles. I still might say screw it and get narrow rims, run 700x23's and put them back.

I have the Athena Dual/Single setup on my Rex and they have stopped me on the steepest descents in San Francisco.

[FlashUNC]

Or should I just stick with EE brakes?

Ye God's man yes. There's no comparison.

[pdmtong]

This is just simple physics. Leverage (caliper "squeeze" force for a given lever "squeeze" force) and cable travel are inversely related. A high leverage caliper will produce a higher stopping for the same hand force, but moving the pads will require a proportionately larger lever movement. A dual pivot caliper has about 50-60% higher leverage than a single pivot caliper, and therefore a 50-60% higher lever travel.

If you set up a single pivot caliper and a dual pivot caliper for the same lever travel before the pads contact the rim, the dual pivot caliper's brake pads will move a 50-60% shorter distance for that lever travel, and will therefore need to be set with 50-60% less pad clearance.

so just for round numbers you would say the pads on a DP are 50% closer to the rim than the pads on a SP if I want to keep the lever throw and point at which the pads hit the same.

since the front brake is DP wouldn't that mean that now both levers will react the same and using DP in the rear actual is a move towards both brakes feeling the same?

conversely, I think you are saying my DP front SP rear set up the rear actually lags for that 50% movement. I wonder how much lever throw this difference manifests...since I never thought abut it like this and I thought i had both lever set so the pads front and rear hit at the same time....

[Web1111a]

Don’t have the catalog but single pivot rear/ dual pivot front and dual pivot both ends? Hint-get the dual DP.

What is your logic for the dual

[cadence90]

FWIW:

CAMPY TECH LAB™ - MONO & DUAL PIVOT BRAKING SYSTEM - CAMPAGNOLO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oq8-qPfxils)


:fight:
.

[oldpotatoe]

While I know that he Dual Pivot rear is more popular, the single pivot rear makes a lot more sense to me:

- The rear brake can provide only a fraction of the braking force as the front brake (due to the rear tire skidding at well below the brake force of the front tire). The lower leverage of a single pivot brake reduces the chance of rear pivot skid, and shifts the total braking power more toward the front brake.

- Rear wheels have more lateral flex, and can sometimes rub the brake pads when riding out of the saddle. A single pivot rear brake has more pad clearance, decreasing the chances of brake rub.

- A single pivot brake requires a shorter cable pull, so the extra compression in the longer rear cable/housing has less affect on lever travel.

And just to add a cherry on top, the single pivot rear brake is also lighter.

BUT w/o a wrench, can't center it...easy to center a DP..why I opted for a DP on Moots(Deltas on Merckx, also easy to center)...

FOR web1111a above.

[oldpotatoe]

Or should I just stick with EE brakes?

Get the Campag ones, either...better brakes, IMHO.

[dogrange]

Uhh, the DP in the rear is too strong - SP makes much more sense. Offering the SP rear option is one lore way Campy is better than Shim on Road bikes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[R3awak3n]

BUT w/o a wrench, can't center it...easy to center a DP..why I opted for a DP on Moots(Deltas on Merckx, also easy to center)...

FOR web1111a above.

exactly why I like the duals.

I have both, also have EE brakes. They all brake just fine

[Web1111a]

BUT w/o a wrench, can't center it...easy to center a DP..why I opted for a DP on Moots(Deltas on Merckx, also easy to center)...

FOR web1111a above.

Thanks

Now I am going to have to check which ones I have on my bikes

[Bob Ross]

BUT w/o a wrench, can't center it...easy to center a DP.

^^^This is why I chose DP.

I have never had a problem of accidentally grabbing too much rear brake (save in 1 or 2 emergency maneuvers that would have locked up the rear wheel on any bike), and I've never been unable to match lever travel between front and rear while maintaining adequate and uniform pad spacing.

I have on the other hand had to re-center my brake calipers with alarming regularity...I probably do that 4 or 5 times a year.

I can deal with the extra 25 grams.

[cmbicycles]

BUT w/o a wrench, can't center it...easy to center a DP..why I opted for a DP on Moots(Deltas on Merckx, also easy to center)...

FOR web1111a above.

I have never needed to center a brake mid ride, is that really an issue for some? I don't think it makes a big difference either way, while riding, which brake (DP/SP) you put on the rear. I have ridden bikes with both styles, and I don't think twice about what percentage of finger movement, lever travel, cable pull, or hand strength, etc... I just shift my carcass around on the bike, apply the brakes, and they do their job.

[oldpotatoe]

I have never needed to center a brake mid ride, is that really an issue for some? I don't think it makes a big difference either way, while riding, which brake (DP/SP) you put on the rear. I have ridden bikes with both styles, and I don't think twice about what percentage of finger movement, lever travel, cable pull, or hand strength, etc... I just shift my carcass around on the bike, apply the brakes, and they do their job.

Had a set of DP/SP brakes..had a flat, changed tire..and for some reason, rear brake wasn't centered..SO..went back to DP rear..maybe need to center a brake once a year maybe but didn't like the idea that I needed a 15mm wrench to do it. Teeny point but I am a minimalist when it comes to stuff I carry on a road ride..tire, pump, small tire lever(tubulars), $10, cellie.

[Geekonbike]

I'm a fan of the DP Front and SP Rear. Descending isn't really an issue in Minnesota so brakes get rarely used anyway.

One thing I don't think has been mentioned is the SP rears have mucho clearance (helped by Mr. Bishops' skills too);

1697956197

[DfCas]

Does one offer more tire clearance than the other?

[Mark McM]

so just for round numbers you would say the pads on a DP are 50% closer to the rim than the pads on a SP if I want to keep the lever throw and point at which the pads hit the same.

That's not quite how the math works. If the SP brakes are 50% further from the rim, than the DP brakes are 33 1/3% closer to the rim (for the same lever travel).

since the front brake is DP wouldn't that mean that now both levers will react the same and using DP in the rear actual is a move towards both brakes feeling the same?

Two comments: Even if the same calipers are used, the front never feels the same as the rear due to the extra cable/housing for the rear. The rear wheel always feel a little mushier, and a little poorer modulation. Because the SP caliper has lower leverage, the brake itself is a little stiffer, which actually acts to reduce the difference in lever feel between front and rear brakes.

Secondly, as noted before, you don't even necessarily want the two brakes to feel the same. Front and rear braking have different characteristics, particularly for their point of lockup. It takes much less braking force to lock the rear wheel, so if the levers feel the same, and you squeeze them the same, you'll lock up the rear long before the front brake reaches its maximum braking point.

conversely, I think you are saying my DP front SP rear set up the rear actually lags for that 50% movement. I wonder how much lever throw this difference manifests...since I never thought abut it like this and I thought i had both lever set so the pads front and rear hit at the same time....

I'm not sure what you mean by "lags". As you state, you can adjust the brakes so that the front and rear pads contact with the same lever travel, so if you pull the levers at the same rate, there will be no lag between the time the pads contact. Since the rear brake has a longer travel ratio, the arms will actually travel faster as the lever is pulled, but the pads will hit at the same time as the fronts.

[Mark McM]

Had a set of DP/SP brakes..had a flat, changed tire..and for some reason, rear brake wasn't centered..SO..went back to DP rear..maybe need to center a brake once a year maybe but didn't like the idea that I needed a 15mm wrench to do it. Teeny point but I am a minimalist when it comes to stuff I carry on a road ride..tire, pump, small tire lever(tubulars), $10, cellie.

This seems like a pretty weak justification. There are lots of special tools needed to work on bikes, but most are not required mid-ride. I've ridden with single pivot brakes for decades (two of my bikes still have single pivots front and rear), and I can't remember a time that I needed to re-center them mid-ride. On the other hand, once on a ride I shifted into the biggest rear sprocket, and discovered that the derailleur contacted a few spokes. This issue is easily corrected by a hanger alignment tool. But since I don't want to carry this tool all the time (you know, just the rare occasion it might be needed), should I abandon derailleur gearing?

Even still, in the case of Campagnolo single pivot rear brakes, there is a centering adjustment screw on on of the caliper arms, which only requires a small hex wrench (which you should probably be carrying anyway). Any major caliper realignment can be done with the mounting bolt & nut (5mm hex), and then fine adjustments done with the centering screw. If that's still not good enough, then you can open the QR at the lever (the Campagnolo QR doesn't affect the ability to apply full brake power). And due to the longer travel of the single pivot brake, opening the QR actually increase the pad clearance more than for a double pivot brake. That should be enough to get you home where you can re-align the caliper more precisely.

[pdmtong]

That's not quite how the math works. If the SP brakes are 50% further from the rim, than the DP brakes are 33 1/3% closer to the rim (for the same lever travel).

Two comments: Even if the same calipers are used, the front never feels the same as the rear due to the extra cable/housing for the rear. The rear wheel always feel a little mushier, and a little poorer modulation. Because the SP caliper has lower leverage, the brake itself is a little stiffer, which actually acts to reduce the difference in lever feel between front and rear brakes.

Secondly, as noted before, you don't even necessarily want the two brakes to feel the same. Front and rear braking have different characteristics, particularly for their point of lockup. It takes much less braking force to lock the rear wheel, so if the levers feel the same, and you squeeze them the same, you'll lock up the rear long before the front brake reaches its maximum braking point.

I'm not sure what you mean by "lags". As you state, you can adjust the brakes so that the front and rear pads contact with the same lever travel, so if you pull the levers at the same rate, there will be no lag between the time the pads contact. Since the rear brake has a longer travel ratio, the arms will actually travel faster as the lever is pulled, but the pads will hit at the same time as the fronts.
Thanks for the thoughtful reply. You've raised many nuances I never thought about

I have three road bikes. All were set up with mavic SSC which are DP front and rear. That's what i am used to. Bikes and wheels changed and now i have a 4th. Two are DP/DP (mavic and campagnolo) and two are DP/SP (campagnolo). They all feel great they all stop great I don't worry about locking the rear having never done it

So based on my experience I don't have a preference. I think I mentioned before or somewhere I went with the DP/DP campagnolo because of price and got the 2015 (right, made in taiwan) over the 2011 (left, made in italy) because the 2015 actually has better vertical clearance since the second pivot is lower. the finish on the 2011 are nicer, but really only in comparison. of course I would prefer italy but chose clearance over mfg origin

I would have stuck with mavic SSC forever but my iteration didn't mate well with a wider C17 rim
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180308/a0b940df47737b15e9db0c7dd98d8c4a.jpg

[oldpotatoe]

This seems like a pretty weak justification. There are lots of special tools needed to work on bikes, but most are not required mid-ride. I've ridden with single pivot brakes for decades (two of my bikes still have single pivots front and rear), and I can't remember a time that I needed to re-center them mid-ride. On the other hand, once on a ride I shifted into the biggest rear sprocket, and discovered that the derailleur contacted a few spokes. This issue is easily corrected by a hanger alignment tool. But since I don't want to carry this tool all the time (you know, just the rare occasion it might be needed), should I abandon derailleur gearing?

Even still, in the case of Campagnolo single pivot rear brakes, there is a centering adjustment screw on on of the caliper arms, which only requires a small hex wrench (which you should probably be carrying anyway). Any major caliper realignment can be done with the mounting bolt & nut (5mm hex), and then fine adjustments done with the centering screw. If that's still not good enough, then you can open the QR at the lever (the Campagnolo QR doesn't affect the ability to apply full brake power). And due to the longer travel of the single pivot brake, opening the QR actually increase the pad clearance more than for a double pivot brake. That should be enough to get you home where you can re-align the caliper more precisely.

Then use SP rear. I didn’t like that I needed a 15mm to center the thing so got a DP rear...whether you think the justification is ‘weak’ or not. Btw I sure couldn’t tell any difference between braking and tire clearance was not an issue so...one reason to switch, no reasons to keep...done.

[R3awak3n]

agreed, I just hate primitive the centering on a SP is, grab a 15mm and force it into what you think is the center. I also don't think it brakes better or worst than DP, they all just brake just fine.

[Kontact]

This is just simple physics. Leverage (caliper "squeeze" force for a given lever "squeeze" force) and cable travel are inversely related. A high leverage caliper will produce a higher stopping for the same hand force, but moving the pads will require a proportionately larger lever movement. A dual pivot caliper has about 50-60% higher leverage than a single pivot caliper, and therefore a 50-60% higher lever travel.

If you set up a single pivot caliper and a dual pivot caliper for the same lever travel before the pads contact the rim, the dual pivot caliper's brake pads will move a 50-60% shorter distance for that lever travel, and will therefore need to be set with 50-60% less pad clearance.

While all true, I doubt you actually benefit with an SP because of caliper flex. In other words, by the time you have compressed an SP brake enough to produce the same stopping power as the DP you probably end up with the same lever travel, even if the SP engaged earlier.

[Calnago]

I’ll take a stab. First, get the Dual Pivots.
Why? Because 1) they work smother and more evenly. Much easier to get the pads to come into contact with the rim at the same time. 2) Despite the marketing spin, modulation is a function of how smooth the calipers work, and the Dual Pivots work smoother. They’re also easier to adjust and hold their position better.
The Single Pivots were a weight choice when the weight battles were really going on. Then the magazines started raving about just how strong The Shimano Dual Pivots were. Campy couldn’t have that, so they brought back the Dual Pivot rear. Good call. I much prefer them.
As to clearance, the single pivots might be a tad taller at the very center peak, but it is lost when the calipers come together at the sides.
If clearance is your concern, the Chorus calipers will get you almost a couple millimeters more useable clearance. It’s not much, but it’s often enough.

[cadence90]

I’ll take a stab. First, get the Dual Pivots.
Why? Because 1) they work smother and more evenly. Much easier to get the pads to come into contact with the rim at the same time. 2) Despite the marketing spin, modulation is a function of how smooth the calipers work, and the Dual Pivots work smoother. They’re also easier to adjust and hold their position better.
The Single Pivots were a weight choice when the weight battles were really going on. Then the magazines started raving about just how strong The Shimano Dual Pivots were. Campy couldn’t have that, so they brought back the Dual Pivot rear. Good call. I much prefer them.
As to clearance, the single pivots might be a tad taller at the very center peak, but it is lost when the calipers come together at the sides.
If clearance is your concern, the Chorus calipers will get you almost a couple millimeters more useable clearance. It’s not much, but it’s often enough.

+1 to all of that.
,

[Mark McM]

While all true, I doubt you actually benefit with an SP because of caliper flex. In other words, by the time you have compressed an SP brake enough to produce the same stopping power as the DP you probably end up with the same lever travel, even if the SP engaged earlier.

Well yes, caliper flex is just a minor factor (but then, so is cable housing compression). The main point is still that you don't want the same stopping power in the back as you do in the front - the forward weight shift reduces rear tire traction, so there just isn't as much braking grip available in the rear. Motorcycle racers have know this for years, which is why many sport bikes are set up with two large brakes in the front, and a single smaller brake in the rear

https://media.zigcdn.com/media/model/2017/Nov/new-supersport-s_600x300.jpg


The forward weight shift is even more extreme on a bicycles (due to shorter wheel base and higher CG), so the need to differentiate the front & rear braking is greater.

[AngryScientist]

i personally just think the single pivot rear looks better. more symmetrical.

i have bikes with both though, and the difference between the two is quite minor. an experienced rider will know how to modulate the levers for either brake to avoid overbraking. both single and dual pivot work fine in the rear, no issues - so it's a fairly inconsequential choice between the two.

[Calnago]

i have bikes with both though, and the difference between the two is quite minor. an experienced rider will know how to modulate the levers for either brake to avoid overbraking. both single and dual pivot work fine in the rear, no issues - so it's a fairly inconsequential choice between the two.

Exactly. I have both versions as well on different bikes. Don’t even think about it. You adjust instantly and brake according to the situation.

[moobikes]

I have Campagnolo SR dual pivot front and rear, and have never felt that the rear needed less power. Adjusting braking/ modulation at speed is very easy and effective. IMHO skidding the rear tire is a non-problem. In fact on a long down hill with traffic I appreciate the extra braking of the DP. Less hand fatigue.

[Kontact]

Well yes, caliper flex is just a minor factor (but then, so is cable housing compression). The main point is still that you don't want the same stopping power in the back as you do in the front - the forward weight shift reduces rear tire traction, so there just isn't as much braking grip available in the rear. Motorcycle racers have know this for years, which is why many sport bikes are set up with two large brakes in the front, and a single smaller brake in the rear


That is true, but the point is that a rider is going to try to make a certain amount of braking force on the wheel, and that force requires a certain amount of force and lever distance. And I would expect caliper flex to eat some lever distance, which means you can't necessarily leave your SP more open because you'll end up with it closer to the handlebar when you need it.


Under many riding circumstances the rear brake is perfectly adequate to slow the bike in lieu of the front, and it gets used that way.

[Mark McM]

That is true, but the point is that a rider is going to try to make a certain amount of braking force on the wheel, and that force requires a certain amount of force and lever distance. And I would expect caliper flex to eat some lever distance, which means you can't necessarily leave your SP more open because you'll end up with it closer to the handlebar when you need it.

Then your expectation would be wrong. It appears you are exaggerating lever travel due to caliper flex. I have bikes with dual pivot brakes and bikes with single pivot brakes. The bikes with single pivot brakes have always stopped just fine, and they have distinctly more pad clearance than the bikes with dual pivot brakes. In fact, when swapping wheels, I only have to use the brake quick release on the dual pivot brakes - the single pivot brakes have enough clearance to clear the tire without using the QR.


Under many riding circumstances the rear brake is perfectly adequate to slow the bike in lieu of the front, and it gets used that way.

Sure - but in those cases, you aren't braking hard enough for caliper flex to be a concern. You are making my point for me - the rear brake doesn't need the higher leverage of a dual pivot brake.

[Kontact]

Then your expectation would be wrong. It appears you are exaggerating lever travel due to caliper flex. I have bikes with dual pivot brakes and bikes with single pivot brakes. The bikes with single pivot brakes have always stopped just fine, and they have distinctly more pad clearance than the bikes with dual pivot brakes. In fact, when swapping wheels, I only have to use the brake quick release on the dual pivot brakes - the single pivot brakes have enough clearance to clear the tire without using the QR.


It sounds like you are exaggerating clearance due to a single pivot.



Sure - but in those cases, you aren't braking hard enough for caliper flex to be a concern. You are making my point for me - the rear brake doesn't need the higher leverage of a dual pivot brake.

I was not making any such point. I live in a hilly area. If I decide to come to a stop for a stop sign at the bottom of a hill, I don't need excessive braking force, but I do need a fair amount of lever force to bring my weight to a stop on a steep incline. With an SP that extra force translates into more lever travel because the brake itself flexes more to grab the rim as hard as a DP would.

[lhuerta]

See this link for info highly relevant to this discussion: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=125349

[taz-t]

Or just get Mavic SSCs and enough braking force to stop the planet's axial rotation.

I just like them because they look cool.

[Mark McM]

It sounds like you are exaggerating clearance due to a single pivot.

I don't know what you think I'm exaggerating, since I am stating simple fact: With my single pivot brakes, I don't have to open the QR to remove a wheel, but with double pivot brakes I do. Obviously, there are many factors that affect this, including brake cable adjustment and rim/tire width differential. But with my preferred lever travel to pad contact, and with 25mm tires on 20mm rims, there is a distinct difference in pad clearance with SP and DP brakes and the need to use the QR for wheel removal.




I was not making any such point. I live in a hilly area. If I decide to come to a stop for a stop sign at the bottom of a hill, I don't need excessive braking force, but I do need a fair amount of lever force to bring my weight to a stop on a steep incline. With an SP that extra force translates into more lever travel because the brake itself flexes more to grab the rim as hard as a DP would.

If you look carefully, you'll see that there isn't much difference in the flex between SP and DP brakes. The majority of the flex is in the cable/housing. If this flex is of concern, use compressionless housing.