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View Full Version : Problems you'd NEVER anticipate


Ray
09-29-2006, 07:07 AM
Due to a all-too documented crank breakage, I recently bought and installed a Shimano compact crank on my main ride. Ugly, but seemingly built like a tank and I sort of wanted to check out one of the outboard bb cranksets and this one was as good and as cheap as any of 'em. So I put it on and rode around a bit and eventually decided I needed to tweak my saddle position (nothing to do with the cranks - I've just been having a bad second half of the season with back problems and I keep trying to find the sweet spot that seems to be eluding me).

In the past, I've had two methods of measuring where stuff was on the bike. The first was a fit stick, which works but is cumbersome and I don't trust its accuracy on a couple of measurements. The other is a squared off support post in my basement. In both cases, the key point of reference, from which everything else is measured and all else flows, is the 8mm bottom bracket bolt hole. On the left for the fit stick and on the right for the support post (I'd stick a hex wrench in there and jam it up against the post and it was easy to measure saddle setback, height from the bb center, and subsequently reach, etc).

But these cranks don't have any friggin useful bolt holes!

In a zillion years, it never would have ocurred to me to think about this before I bought the cranks, but now I'm flummoxed. Am I gonna have to go back to dropping plum lines and hope I can hold 'em steady enough to really determine where stuff is? Measure saddle height and tilt from the floor? All of these methods are less than satisfactory, but might have to do.

Or maybe I'll drill a hole in the right crank, where the bolt woulda been. Yeah, that'd be smart right after shearing off a crank arm...

This should be the biggest problem I have for a while. :beer:

-Ray

Too Tall
09-29-2006, 07:22 AM
Use the TL FC-16 adjusting tool to create a new piece for the fit stick or something similar. I need a lathe.

Ray
09-29-2006, 10:10 AM
Use the TL FC-16 adjusting tool to create a new piece for the fit stick or something similar. I need a lathe.
Yeah that could work. I don't particularly like the fitstick, but it might be the only alternative. But since this started as a minor rant anyway, what's up with the TL FC-16 anyway? This little plastic 'driver' has gotta cost about $0.25 to make but you can't find 'em anywhere. Unless you buy the whole bb wrench, which I already had and didn't need. Why don't they just include the damn thing with the cranks and charge an extra dollar, or five even? I had to call every LBS within 15 miles of here before I found one and only one other place even had the wrench/fc-16 combination, which I'd have had to spend $20 for. I finally found the stupid little part for $4, but what a friggin hassle. They say a 12mm allen wrench'll work, but who's got one of those sitting around?

OK, good idea, I'll try it. Thanks TT.

-Ray

bironi
09-29-2006, 10:25 AM
I too have used the fit stick. Why can't you put the cranks in the 6/12 position, mark the 6 pedal spindle location, and go from there as your new reference point. Measure up 170mm if a 170 crank is used, this would give you your bb location, you get the idea. :beer:

Ray
09-29-2006, 10:33 AM
I too have used the fit stick. Why can't you put the cranks in the 6/12 position, mark the 6 pedal spindle location, and go from there as your new reference point. Measure up 170mm if a 170 crank is used, this would give you your bb location, you get the idea. :beer:
Yeah, that could work too, but I guess you'd have to just make a mark on the seat tube to be sure you really use the same spot each time, and this will vary slightly from bike to bike, depending on ST angle. I think I like the fitstick idea better because its the same from bike to bike.

I'm just old and inflexible and now angry and bitter because I had a perfect and simple system and now I have to mess with it. Probably good for me.

GRRRRR!

-Ray

palincss
09-29-2006, 10:49 AM
I'm just old and inflexible and now angry and bitter because I had a perfect and simple system and now I have to mess with it. Probably good for me.

GRRRRR!

-Ray

I could say the same thing about the whole switch away from square taper bottom brackets, except that I don't plan to switch and so far haven't been forced to.

Too Tall
09-29-2006, 12:09 PM
Yo Ray, if I can get to a lathe soon I'll PM you. Making a new piece for the fitstik is pretty simple. Doh! Actually....you know that you can flip the crank hole piece around correct (just pull the pin)? Just thought of a redneck solution. Just put an approp. amt. of wraps of innertube around that piece to make up the hold dia. diff. Derr...why didn't I think of that before?

Ray
09-29-2006, 12:16 PM
Yo Ray, if I can get to a lathe soon I'll PM you. Making a new piece for the fitstik is pretty simple. Doh! Actually....you know that you can flip the crank hole piece around correct (just pull the pin)? Just thought of a redneck solution. Just put an approp. amt. of wraps of innertube around that piece to make up the hold dia. diff. Derr...why didn't I think of that before?
I was thinking of just drilling a hole in the TL FC-16 that fits tightly around the little **** on the fitstick that's supposed to go in the bolt hole. Then just shove it on and leave it there, using the FC-16 to grab the plastic cap on the side of the bb. Should work, no?

-Ray

vaxn8r
09-29-2006, 04:01 PM
If you take dead-on lateral photos you should be able to adjust it pretty much perfectly within 3mm.


;)

Kevan
09-29-2006, 04:18 PM
I use one of these for my fitting purposes.

Knowing when to fold them (http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/21-399-folding-rulers/engineers-metric-wood-rule-2m-685130.aspx)