Campagnolo Record Hub Overhall

[R3awak3n]

Some of my favorite hubs, I was cleaning them up and seemed a bit loose. Being an idiot I started to tighten things up and now the bearings are rough. I was searching on google for some over hall instructions, how to take the bearings out, ect. I have the freehub and axle out but not the bearings. I found some links to the campy website manual but they are broken.

[AngryScientist]

which generation of hubs are you working with?

either way, it's a pretty straightforward job of disassembly, clean everything mirror clean with mineral spirits, make sure the races arent pitted and the balls are in good shape, pack with your favorite grease and re-assemble.

https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/attachments/f40/77117d1422466814t-servicing-record-10-speed-oil-port-hubs-campy_os_hub-png

[oldpotatoe]

Some of my favorite hubs, I was cleaning them up and seemed a bit loose. Being an idiot I started to tighten things up and now the bearings are rough. I was searching on google for some over hall instructions, how to take the bearings out, ect. I have the freehub and axle out but not the bearings. I found some links to the campy website manual but they are broken.

Oversized aluminum axle? Just pop the seals out and the bearings and cage falls out. 5/32 bearing balls, 15 per side. Cone and keeper on non drive side, cone on axle on drive side. I have all the parts, BTW..bearings, pawls and paewl springs, seals, cones..even axles and bearings for freehub body.

Drive side axle end is LEFT threaded(righty-loosey)..5mm in axle end and 17mm open end wrench..

If steel axle, samo, just 9 1/4inch bearing balls on non drive side and 10 7/32 on drive side under FHB.

[moobikes]

If you have the axle out, the next step is to take the rubber seals out to expose the bearings. The seals sit a groove just a little outboard of the bearings and can tear if you are not paying attention or are using something too sharp when taking them off.

Remember the orientation of the bearing cages and the seals and where they sit. The seals can seem like they are properly installed but are rubbing on the bearings. Make sure they are in their grooves all the way around their circumference.

And all the little split rings and nuts and threads on the NDS, give everything a light coat of grease when installing. That helps get the correct bearing preload and for it to stay in adjustment.

[jke.4132]

Have a care when adjusting the lateral play. There should be just a hint of play before you install the wheel in the dropouts. The QR will make sure they're good and tight.

[R3awak3n]

Have a care when adjusting the lateral play. There should be just a hint of play before you install the wheel in the dropouts. The QR will make sure they're good and tight.

which is how it was and then I messed it up I think.


My version is the oversized I think, its the current record black hub. Pretty clear with Angrys diagram and OPotatos instructions. Will attempt to fix it this weekend.

[Black Dog]

which is how it was and then I messed it up I think.


My version is the oversized I think, its the current record black hub. Pretty clear with Angrys diagram and OPotatos instructions. Will attempt to fix it this weekend.

New black hubs; it is definitely oversized.

[Mark McM]

Have a care when adjusting the lateral play. There should be just a hint of play before you install the wheel in the dropouts. The QR will make sure they're good and tight.

Which is one of the advantages of the oversized aluminum axle hubs - you can adjust the bearing pre-load with the wheel installed and the QR tightened down.

For the older steel axle hubs (with traditional locknuts) you can use a simple jig that allows you to apply the QR force to the axle when you adjust the bearing pre-load.

[dddd]

Which is one of the advantages of the oversized aluminum axle hubs - you can adjust the bearing pre-load with the wheel installed and the QR tightened down.

For the older steel axle hubs (with traditional locknuts) you can use a simple jig that allows you to apply the QR force to the axle when you adjust the bearing pre-load.

Yeah, I can't tell you haw many hundreds of cones I've seen that were destroyed after only a short time in service because of over-tight adjustment, especially when a rider favors a Herculean lever-closing effort using OEM QR levers with internal cams!

A pair of thick washers is a good sort of jig one can use to simulate the pair of dropouts, to literally feel how the QR lever being tight is affecting bearing rotation, but actual dropouts can perhaps better simulate the frame and without even having to remove the QR shaft from the hub to put them in place.
I even like to be able to discern a bit of play at the rim when I lightly secure the QR lever on the installed wheel, with a tighter readjustment of the QR lever nut then acting as the final bearing adjustment toward zero play at the rim.

It seems that the threadless driveside rear axle bearings on the older steel-axle Campy freehubs have been impossible to find for many years now, and I wonder what a new one would go for if located and put up on Ebay(?).

Oddly, I always found the older Campy cassette hubs harder to adjust and to discern axle freeplay before installing the wheel. I speculate that this is due to their particular style of rubber seals, but whatever the reason It seems that likely this might be the reason for at least some of these hubs getting damaged from improper adjustment.

[oldpotatoe]

Yeah, I can't tell you haw many hundreds of cones I've seen that were destroyed after only a short time in service because of over-tight adjustment, especially when a rider favors a Herculean lever-closing effort using OEM QR levers with internal cams!

A pair of thick washers is a good sort of jig one can use to simulate the pair of dropouts, to literally feel how the QR lever being tight is affecting bearing rotation, but actual dropouts can perhaps better simulate the frame and without even having to remove the QR shaft from the hub to put them in place.
I even like to be able to discern a bit of play at the rim when I lightly secure the QR lever on the installed wheel, with a tighter readjustment of the QR lever nut then acting as the final bearing adjustment toward zero play at the rim.

It seems that the threadless driveside rear axle bearings on the older steel-axle Campy freehubs have been impossible to find for many years now, and I wonder what a new one would go for if located and put up on Ebay(?).

Oddly, I always found the older Campy cassette hubs harder to adjust and to discern axle freeplay before installing the wheel. I speculate that this is due to their particular style of rubber seals, but whatever the reason It seems that likely this might be the reason for at least some of these hubs getting damaged from improper adjustment.

The bearings inside the FHB of steel and ti axled rear hubs? Easy, I have 4-5 and easily available at places like Wheels Manufacturing.

Internal to hub? 10 7/32 bearing balls. Cones, even marked FH-RE-110 above? also easy..

Threadless driveside rear axle bearings(??))

[Tommasini53]

If I understand the responses.....all of Campy hubs with oversize aluminum axels are using 5\32 bearings all around? Is that correct????

I have a pair of Record hubs and a pair of Eurus wheels. I don't recall the year but I think it was the late 8 or early 9 speed era. Both appear to have aluminum axels. I have lubed them via the ports over the years and they are very smooth. January project is to overhaul both.

Anybody have a good source for authentic parts? Any nauances to the disassebly??? Campy equip always seems straight forward on close inspection, very minimalist on parts and design, love it.

[oldpotatoe]

If I understand the responses.....all of Campy hubs with oversize aluminum axels are using 5\32 bearings all around? Is that correct????

I have a pair of Record hubs and a pair of Eurus wheels. I don't recall the year but I think it was the late 8 or early 9 speed era. Both appear to have aluminum axels. I have lubed them via the ports over the years and they are very smooth. January project is to overhaul both.

Anybody have a good source for authentic parts? Any nauances to the disassebly??? Campy equip always seems straight forward on close inspection, very minimalist on parts and design, love it.

Correct, same cage and balls and number front and rear hub and also same cage, number, size on OS aluminum axle wheelsets as well.

I have all the bearings(hub and FHB), and cones and pawls and springs...

Easy take apart and reassemble. Only 'gotcha(s)' is bearings right direction and both seals seated in the wee channels. Also the drive side axle end is LEFT THREADED..righty-loosey. Hold axle with 5mm allen, 17mm open end wrench, righty-loosey.

[R3awak3n]

Oversized aluminum axle? Just pop the seals out and the bearings and cage falls out. 5/32 bearing balls, 15 per side. Cone and keeper on non drive side, cone on axle on drive side. I have all the parts, BTW..bearings, pawls and paewl springs, seals, cones..even axles and bearings for freehub body.

Drive side axle end is LEFT threaded(righty-loosey)..5mm in axle end and 17mm open end wrench..

If steel axle, samo, just 9 1/4inch bearing balls on non drive side and 10 7/32 on drive side under FHB.

so different axles have different bearings? How do I know what axle I have?

I just got it all out thanks to that diagram you and angry posted. You are right it was pretty easy. Part HB RE020 was screwing me up. It popped right out and I got the bearings out. They were pretty gritty so I am going to replace them but I need to know what size they are (the drive side look fine, its the NDS that are not looking so hot.

also, thanks!!!! These are still some of my favorite hubs, not crazy tools to work on them like CK.

[moobikes]

Part HB-RE023 for current black Record and prior generation silver Record/ Chorus.

[oldpotatoe]

so different axles have different bearings? How do I know what axle I have?

I just got it all out thanks to that diagram you and angry posted. You are right it was pretty easy. Part HB RE020 was screwing me up. It popped right out and I got the bearings out. They were pretty gritty so I am going to replace them but I need to know what size they are (the drive side look fine, its the NDS that are not looking so hot.

also, thanks!!!! These are still some of my favorite hubs, not crazy tools to work on them like CK.

15 5/32 grade 25 stainless steel bearing balls per 'end' in those fiber cages...front or rear.

[R3awak3n]

15 5/32 grade 25 stainless steel bearing balls per 'end' in those fiber cages...front or rear.

thank you OP. Now to find a place to buy these.

[oldpotatoe]

thank you OP. Now to find a place to buy these.

I have them as does Wheels Manufacturing along with (hopefully) your LBS.

[R3awak3n]

I have them as does Wheels Manufacturing along with (hopefully) your LBS.

going to check the LBS on Tuesday, have to get some discs bled and get a bike box so it will be a 3 in 1 hopefuly.