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tuxbailey
12-16-2017, 07:43 PM
As a result of a fit session today, I will have to get some new parts for my bike. I will also need to re-cable the bike as the existing cables are just right for the current set up.

Since the bike has Shimano group, should I just get the standard shift and brake cable sets off eBay? Will I benefit in any way, shape, or form if I get Jagwire?

Edit: I also went to one of the forum sponsor vendors and saw that even for Shimano, there are like 6-7 different cable types.

weisan
12-16-2017, 07:48 PM
tux pal, I am the wrong guy to tell you about cables.

:help:

:p

Peter P.
12-16-2017, 08:27 PM
Not only do Jagwire kits work fine with Shimano gear, you can easily find it in any color to coordinate with your bike. Not so easy with Shimano.

Get Jagwire.

tuxbailey
12-16-2017, 08:56 PM
Not only do Jagwire kits work fine with Shimano gear, you can easily find it in any color to coordinate with your bike. Not so easy with Shimano.

Get Jagwire.

But .... my bike is titanium with black paint :p

Peter P.
12-17-2017, 05:47 AM
But .... my bike is titanium with black paint :p

Even MORE proof you need colored cables! ;)

oldpotatoe
12-17-2017, 07:16 AM
As a result of a fit session today, I will have to get some new parts for my bike. I will also need to re-cable the bike as the existing cables are just right for the current set up.

Since the bike has Shimano group, should I just get the standard shift and brake cable sets off eBay? Will I benefit in any way, shape, or form of I get Jagwire?

Edit: I also went to one of the forum sponsor vendors and saw that even for Shimano, there are like 6-7 different cable types.

Slick stainless and Jagwire is great stuff. Lined housing, I suggest brass ferrules where ferrules are needed. 5mm der housing(altho getting harder to find) works better/longer than 4mm..and ohh those crappy shimano plastic ferrules..trash them. 'Some' will say low end, galvanized junque cables 'work just fine' but I then question if they even know what good, slick stainless, cables feel like...otherwise they wouldn't opt for the real low end crappy stuff. When you don't pay a lot for cables, you get cheap cables....

oooo, colors...:)..from a banner sponsor also...huzzah!

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/jagwire-pro-polished-derailleur-cable-set?v=orange0&adl=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyNjRBRCpARIsAPDBnn2nLqXTrrV4Nd3z-9j0qydqmg4h2gCL5NsFoqHdLY5BQFBG3NwVhWEaAuvjEALw_wc B

Ryun
12-17-2017, 07:57 AM
I like the jagwire stuff. I usually get the black teflon coated stuff. Not really for a performance standpoint, but exposed sections dont corrode as quickly.

I agree that cheap cables can really hinder newer rear derailleurs but I dont necessarily find an advantage in the high end shimano stuff. I mostly find that coating comes off too easily

Gummee
12-17-2017, 08:21 AM
IME stick with SP41 housing and go with Jagwire Pro (or Elite) Polished cables.

The 11sp stuff and the 10sp stuff that has cables and housing running under the bars need the super slick stuff.

Make sure you use the long-nose ferrule into the shifter. Helps with the 'shifters eat cables' thing.

If you want to stay Shimano, go with the green colored cables. They don't frzz up like the bronze colored stuff does.

HTH

M

tuxbailey
12-17-2017, 08:49 AM
Nice. Thanks for the help.

Mikej
12-17-2017, 09:10 AM
I just get those gold expensive Shimano kits that are expensive, ones with all of the ends and stuff. On sale of course-

Cicli
12-17-2017, 09:20 AM
Jagwire, Shimano or Others are okay. Just dont use those $h!ttiƩ Bell kits Weisan uses. :banana:

oldpotatoe
12-17-2017, 09:49 AM
Jagwire, Shimano or Others are okay. Just dont use those $h!ttiƩ Bell kits Weisan uses. :banana:

DOHx2.....yer on a roll today!:)

dddd
12-17-2017, 12:37 PM
Shimano SP41 pre-lubricated is my go-to for shift housing, and available in lots of colors.
Who better than Shimano to produce cable housing that best supports their gruppo's performance?
And the pre-lube in Shimano housing is silicone-based, so doesn't degrade (thicken, oxidize, penetrate the liner or evaporate/outgas) the way that petro products often tend to do.

The Shimano sealed ferrules are likely the best-designed out there, given how well that Shimano components have typically been sealed versus other brand's components. Shimano even makes sealed metal shift-housing ferrules for where the housing enters the rear derailer (now no longer an issue with 8000 and 9100 rear derailers).

Shimano SLR brake cable housing is also great stuff, the plastic covering is long-lasting and not so hard as to crack or make clacking noises against adjacent cable housings. Again, many colors offered, and I find the Shimano housing consistently easy to make good clean cuts on with any good cable cutters

I am not so fussy about inner wires, I often even do builds for my own use with decent used cables if the length is fully sufficient. I always massage the wire with a scant pinch of SRAM "jonnisnot" shifter lube, which is silicone-based and won't thicken or vanish even after many years. Shimano also offers their own special silicone cable grease.

I prefer wires that are drawn to a smooth outer surface. I suffer no shift cable breakage because I always make sure that the limit screw isn't tight enough to prevent the derailer from moving freely to the largest cog or chainring. This is the biggest setup error that I know of in terms of premature cable breakage, so I don't blame the shifter design! Shops often set limit screws to the "tight" side to be "safe" with respect to spoke contact or of the chain over-shooting the big ring, but there needs to be at least a little bit of give at the limit screw to accommodate the frame flexing and thus tugging and fatiguing the cabling! Tugging on an exposed cable or pushing the shift lever should show at least some movement of each derailer when already shifted to the largest sprocket!
Lastly, riders often switch wheels with only a turn of the cable adjuster to make the shifting perfect, but so often fail to re-set the limit screw for needed clearance up to the largest cog, so this is another invitation to a prematurely broken shift cable.

fa63
12-17-2017, 12:50 PM
I always use the standard Shimano cables; the ones that come in a big roll for shop use. All my bikes shift very well and have never broken a cable. I usually replace them once a year.

Gummee
12-17-2017, 05:28 PM
I always use the standard Shimano cables; the ones that come in a big roll for shop use. All my bikes shift very well and have never broken a cable. I usually replace them once a year.

Next time you're replacing cables, try the Jagwire Pro (or Elite) polished stuff. Your bike will shift even better.

AMHIK

M

pjbaz
12-17-2017, 06:12 PM
I always use the standard Shimano cables; the ones that come in a big roll for shop use. All my bikes shift very well and have never broken a cable. I usually replace them once a year.

Must be nice to get free cables LOL

I replaced the cables on my main roadie last year as I figured they'd earned it. I mean, they were on there since 2004 and have thousands and thousands of miles on them :banana:

djg21
12-17-2017, 06:38 PM
As a result of a fit session today, I will have to get some new parts for my bike. I will also need to re-cable the bike as the existing cables are just right for the current set up.

Since the bike has Shimano group, should I just get the standard shift and brake cable sets off eBay? Will I benefit in any way, shape, or form of I get Jagwire?

Edit: I also went to one of the forum sponsor vendors and saw that even for Shimano, there are like 6-7 different cable types.

I would suggest Yokozuna cable sets. I have found them extremely durable, and the stiff housing really makes for good shifting and braking.

weisan
12-18-2017, 04:51 AM
One *free* set of personally autographed, premium and complete professional genuine authentic Bell cable kit to the first pal who responds in a PM.

Rode my new Cervelo R3 yesterday installed with said cable kit. It was awesome! The bike I mean. The part that most amazes me is when I braked, the bike stopped and when I moved the shifter levers, it actually shifted across the cogs and chain rings flawlessly. Wow! What a concept!

Meh....I can't be bothered.

Do I believe that the more expensive OEM cable kit actually provides better performance and durability?

In some cases...Yes, absolutely! See...I am not afraid to admit that. My sense of purpose and self-worth is not threatened by a dissenting view. Ultimately, truth matters and it's not about me.

Is it enough of a difference to justify me paying for them instead of using my cheapo Bell cable kit?

Personally, no.

And why is this so hard to accept?


Have I tried riding on bikes that come with top-of-the-line cable kit?

What you talking about?! Yes, of course! I have bought and owned bikes that came with their original premium Campagnolo or Jagwire setup. Getting so desperate now that we are punching below the belt? Hmmm....

Again, I leave this matter to a personal choice.

Free cable kit, anybody?

Cicli
12-18-2017, 05:24 AM
One *free* set of personally autographed, premium and complete professional genuine authentic Bell cable kit to the first pal who responds in a PM.

Rode my new Cervelo R3 yesterday installed with said cable kit. It was awesome! The bike I mean. The part that most amazes me is when I braked, the bike stopped and when I moved the shifter levers, it actually shifted across the cogs and chain rings flawlessly. Wow! What a concept!

Meh....I can't be bothered.

Do I believe that the more expensive OEM cable kit actually provides better performance and durability?

In some cases...Yes, absolutely! See...I am not afraid to admit that. My sense of purpose and self-worth is not threatened by a dissenting view. Ultimately, truth matters and it's not about me.

Is it enough of a difference to justify me paying for them instead of using my cheapo Bell cable kit?

Personally, no.

And why is this so hard to accept?


Have I tried riding on bikes that come with top-of-the-line cable kit?

What you talking about?! Yes, of course! I have bought and owned bikes that came with their original premium Campagnolo or Jagwire setup. Getting so desperate now that we are punching below the belt? Hmmm....

Again, I leave this matter to a personal choice.

Free cable kit, anybody?

I got to give it to you. You are putting them together and getting miles at any cost. I get it.

You have a great attitude Weisan. :banana:

weisan
12-18-2017, 05:36 AM
I got to give it to you. You are putting them together and getting miles at any cost. I get it.

You have a great attitude Weisan. :banana:

Did you just respond to my free cable kit?

Please confirm your address.

sales guy
12-18-2017, 06:45 AM
Slick stainless and Jagwire is great stuff. Lined housing, I suggest brass ferrules where ferrules are needed. 5mm der housing(altho getting harder to find) works better/longer than 4mm..and ohh those crappy shimano plastic ferrules..trash them. 'Some' will say low end, galvanized junque cables 'work just fine' but I then question if they even know what good, slick stainless, cables feel like...otherwise they wouldn't opt for the real low end crappy stuff. When you don't pay a lot for cables, you get cheap cables....

oooo, colors...:)..from a banner sponsor also...huzzah!

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/jagwire-pro-polished-derailleur-cable-set?v=orange0&adl=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyNjRBRCpARIsAPDBnn2nLqXTrrV4Nd3z-9j0qydqmg4h2gCL5NsFoqHdLY5BQFBG3NwVhWEaAuvjEALw_wc B

I don't normally have a comment on Peter's stuff. Cause it's solid. BUT, many shifters are being set up to run just 1.1mm inner wires.

So 5mm derailleur housing is supposed to run 1.2mm inner wire.
4mm is supposed to run 1.1.
Trust me, if you don't the shifting can be compromised.

But many companies, like Shimano and SRAM, the guides inside the shifters are designed around 1.1mm inner wires. If you run 1.2, especially with a coating, it will start binding up inside the shifter or the guides and will cause really crappy shifting.

I am a big fan of using 5mm derailleur housing. Much better shifting and much stiffer. And no crappy ferrules as mentioned. Just make sure that you don't have binding issues.

oldpotatoe
12-18-2017, 06:53 AM
I don't normally have a comment on Peter's stuff. Cause it's solid. BUT, many shifters are being set up to run just 1.1mm inner wires.

So 5mm derailleur housing is supposed to run 1.2mm inner wire.
4mm is supposed to run 1.1.
Trust me, if you don't the shifting can be compromised.

But many companies, like Shimano and SRAM, the guides inside the shifters are designed around 1.1mm inner wires. If you run 1.2, especially with a coating, it will start binding up inside the shifter or the guides and will cause really crappy shifting.

I am a big fan of using 5mm derailleur housing. Much better shifting and much stiffer. And no crappy ferrules as mentioned. Just make sure that you don't have binding issues.

Agree, a real problem with 'coated' cables...too big inside too small housing.

BUT in the grand scheme of things, a few $ more for decent inner wires(on a bazillion$ bike) and housing isn't really rocket surgery. Longevity, function, ease of install..those things mean something.

AND on Campag, 2009 and later, which MUST use 4mm der housing.I often put 5mm back by the der...I give up a section with 'Campagnolo' on it but...and always use 4mm and 5mm brass ferrules..

sales guy
12-18-2017, 06:58 AM
Agree, a real problem with 'coated' cables...too big inside too small housing.

BUT in the grand scheme of things, a few $ more for decent inner wires(on a bazillion$ bike) and housing isn't really rocket surgery. Longevity, function, ease of install..those things mean something.

AND on Campag, 2009 and later, which MUST use 4mm der housing.I often put 5mm back by the der...I give up a section with 'Campagnolo' on it but...and always use 4mm and 5mm brass ferrules..


Agreed sir. Was just trying to clarify the 4/1.1, 5/1.2 issues out there . Most people and shops don't realize the differences OR that they are different.

oldpotatoe
12-18-2017, 07:01 AM
Agreed sir. Was just trying to clarify the 4/1.1, 5/1.2 issues out there . Most people and shops don't realize the differences OR that they are different.

10-4..always interesting when both responders are 'online' at the same time on this forum, like 'talking' or a chat room..and seeing the new 'drama' on other threads and responses...even really important stuff like 'cables'...:)

sales guy
12-18-2017, 07:03 AM
10-4..always interesting when both responders are 'online' at the same time on this forum, like 'talking' or a chat room..and seeing the new 'drama' on other threads and responses...even really important stuff like 'cables'...:)

HA! Yep. I just repsonded to Shamals if you wanna head over there

tuxbailey
12-18-2017, 07:25 AM
I don't normally have a comment on Peter's stuff. Cause it's solid. BUT, many shifters are being set up to run just 1.1mm inner wires.

So 5mm derailleur housing is supposed to run 1.2mm inner wire.
4mm is supposed to run 1.1.
Trust me, if you don't the shifting can be compromised.

But many companies, like Shimano and SRAM, the guides inside the shifters are designed around 1.1mm inner wires. If you run 1.2, especially with a coating, it will start binding up inside the shifter or the guides and will cause really crappy shifting.

I am a big fan of using 5mm derailleur housing. Much better shifting and much stiffer. And no crappy ferrules as mentioned. Just make sure that you don't have binding issues.

So ... I just bought some cables that has 4 mm housing with 1.2 mm cables.

Bad combo?

sales guy
12-18-2017, 08:21 AM
So ... I just bought some cables that has 4 mm housing with 1.2 mm cables.

Bad combo?

Yes.
the liner is designed for 1.1mm inner wires. They will bind up a bit which will lead to poor shifting.

It's a pretty common issue. Like OP and I mentioned, many shops don't even realize there are differences.

Try and find some 1.1mm inner wires or switch to 5mm housing.

Another thing, the holes in ferrules, especially the alloy ferrules, they are super tight. designed around 1.1mm wires. Also if they have seals in the ferrule, again, you'll be shoving an Xxl person into a M shirt. Doesn't work well.

BLD 25
12-18-2017, 08:41 AM
I have never used the "premium" stuff on my bikes, but I don't use crappy either. I typically just use the lower end housing I get from the trek dealer(bontrager stuff, I think), and then I have used the nicer stainless shimano cables. I usually take some synthetic oil and cover over the cable before I install it in the housing. It makes for a slick setup and prevents corrosion.

So, would I see much improvement going to the sp41 shifter kit from shimano over what I have been doing?

tuxbailey
12-18-2017, 08:53 AM
Yes.
the liner is designed for 1.1mm inner wires. They will bind up a bit which will lead to poor shifting.

It's a pretty common issue. Like OP and I mentioned, many shops don't even realize there are differences.

Try and find some 1.1mm inner wires or switch to 5mm housing.

Another thing, the holes in ferrules, especially the alloy ferrules, they are super tight. designed around 1.1mm wires. Also if they have seals in the ferrule, again, you'll be shoving an Xxl person into a M shirt. Doesn't work well.

Thanks. I will get different cables then. They were in the standard package. Now that this thread has more input I will pick the parts differently.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DLYAAOSw~bFWOEf6/s-l1600.jpg

Gummee
12-18-2017, 09:06 AM
For those of us that are cheap SOBs, next time you're changing cables and housing, re-use the right cable on the left. ASSuMIng that they're in good shape that is! New housing all the way round.

Once you do this a few times, you've got fancy cables the whole way round your bike(s)

M

fa63
12-18-2017, 09:11 AM
I have used them all: Jagwire, Gore Ride-on, Yokozuna... I am too cheap to spend extra money for the marginal improvement in shift quality :)

Next time you're replacing cables, try the Jagwire Pro (or Elite) polished stuff. Your bike will shift even better.

AMHIK

M

FlashUNC
12-18-2017, 09:13 AM
Just get Jagwire.

tuxbailey
12-18-2017, 09:14 AM
I can get this 1.1 mm inner Jagwire cable from bike tires direct and use them with the Shimano OP-SP41 housing from the set I bought then.

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/jagwire-slick-stainless-derailleur-cable-shimano-campy

Additional question: where do I buy 6 brass ferrules without having to spend $20+ for a bottle of 50?

Edit: Never mind about ferrules. Need better search skills in eBay.

dave thompson
12-18-2017, 09:37 AM
I use SRAM 1.1mm slick shift cables. Quite inexpensive and wonderfully smooth.

oldpotatoe
12-18-2017, 09:40 AM
I can get this 1.1 mm inner Jagwire cable from bike tires direct and use them with the Shimano OP-SP41 housing from the set I bought then.

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/jagwire-slick-stainless-derailleur-cable-shimano-campy

Additional question: where do I buy 6 brass ferrules without having to spend $20+ for a bottle of 50?

From me...$.35 per plus mailing...
Email at
Cp51errc@gmail.com

tuxbailey
12-18-2017, 10:20 AM
From me...$.35 per plus mailing...
Email at
Cp51errc@gmail.com

I am always too late in getting reply (or too impatient.) Will remember next time.

dddd
12-18-2017, 10:37 PM
Thanks tuxbailey for clarifying matters with your photo!

4mm shift housing has always been compatible with the very common 1.2mm derailer cable size, and only SRAM of the "big three" uses 1.1mm shift cables in their own (do they make their own?) 4mm derailer housing.

So of course the 1.2mm shift wires included in Shimano's cable kit together with 4mm housing is the correct diameter.

1.1mm wire flexes with less stress than 1.2mm wire and is thus more flexible, but it is also more elastic lengthwise.
So each of the big three have made their own choice, even Campy with their odd ~4.5mm derailer housing.

Brake cable wires have their own range of diameters, around 1.5mm to 1.8mm over somewhat-recent years, but dare I say that I've even fit brake wire through modern shift housing for use with the very long housings needed with bar-end shifters. So 1.2mm wires will slide freely in any housing, but won't fit through a SRAM shift lever's spool anchor point.

I've had cases where a derailer's b-tension screw seemingly could not be relaxed enough to allow the derailer to swing freely enough to give a small chain gap, this because someone installed the very stiff (and obsolete) 5mm derailer housing. And I prefer not to have that level of stiffness impeding my bike's steering, while it also rubs more heavily against the painted headtube. It also weighs significantly more, several extra grams per foot, is more visible/unsightly and is less aerodynamic. So the 5mm SIS housing was obsoleted for some pretty good reasons! This coming from a friction-shifting curmudgeon no less.

sales guy
12-18-2017, 11:35 PM
deleted

Louis
12-18-2017, 11:55 PM
Didn't read all the posts above this, but for the record, I've had very good results with Jagwire stainless cables.

dddd
12-19-2017, 12:55 AM
As an historical note, I believe that the 1.1mm cable diameter began with the need for a more-flexible wire for use inside of the (pre-1:1) sliding-ramp style of 7-8sp Grip Shift that were designed for use with Shimano derailers.

Using a 1.2mm cable in these early Grip Shift shifters didn't give positive indexing, since the cable wasn't eager to follow a rather long, serpentine path tensioned merely by the rear derailer's return spring.
These early style of shifters were also dependent on a very special, super-slick silicone-Teflon grease which was able to keep the cable from friction-wrapping itself around the spiraled sliding ramp that rotated with the grip. Using any other grease, even regular "Teflon" multipurpose/bearing grease wouldn't allow the grip to turn freely at all. This "jonnisnot" grease was brought back to market in recent years when SRAM brought out their road shifters with small-radius cable guides inside, since it is so slippery, and even Shimano now sells a special Silicone cable grease for the same usage in their "hidden cables" STI shift levers.

So with that background, SRAM has stuck with their 1.1mm cable size standard, and no doubt has adjusted their leverage ratios and return-spring tensions for optimized performance with their 1.1mm cables.
There are aftermarket cables available with 1.1mm diameter, I've found low-cost "generic" ones under different odd brand names with a shiny black coating, and iir they have both Shimano and Campy ends on them. So these will work with any system out there from at least the last 40 years.

weisan
12-19-2017, 04:53 AM
The first responder backs out, this is still available. Anyone, Bueller bueller?

And for the record, my cable kit doesn't suffer the "XXL squeeze into medium" syndrome. It's the right size housing for the right size cable.

https://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697951417&stc=1&d=1513593584

Cicli
12-19-2017, 05:18 AM
The first responder backs out, this is still available. Anyone, Bueller bueller?

And for the record, my cable kit doesn't suffer the "XXL squeeze into medium" syndrome. It's the right size housing for the right size cable.

4[/IMG]

No takers yet huh?
Hows your healing up from the spill a few weeks ago?

weisan
12-19-2017, 05:31 AM
Appreciate your concern, Cicli pal. I was back on the bike after a day or two. Other than a bit of healing still going on with the left shoulder, no other lingering issue it seems. I was really lucky overall.

Some pals may assume that the crash has gotten to my head and altered the way I post around here lately but I can assure you, you haven't seen the full extent of the "damage" yet. I am not done with my rampage.

Cicli
12-19-2017, 06:26 AM
Appreciate your concern, Cicli pal. I was back on the bike after a day or two. Other than a bit of healing still going on with the left shoulder, no other lingering issue it seems. I was really lucky overall.

Some pals may assume that the crash has gotten to my head and altered the way I post around here lately but I can assure you, you haven't seen the full extent of the "damage" yet. I am not done with my rampage.

I was never concerned with your head. I am sure it is just like it always was. :bike:;)

weisan
12-19-2017, 07:26 AM
I was never concerned with your head. I am sure it is just like it always was. :bike:;)

Again, thanks for your genuine concern, I appreciate it.

AngryScientist
12-19-2017, 07:43 AM
on the topic of cables though - i've found that what is way more important than the cables themselves are how well you prep the housing. clean, square 90 degree cuts free of burrs/edges is key. the few times i've wound up with sloppy shifting have been the result of the housings not sitting square/home in their stops - so whatever you wind up buying, make sure you install it with attention to that.

weisan
12-19-2017, 08:16 AM
on the topic of cables though - i've found that what is way more important than the cables themselves are how well you prep the housing. clean, square 90 degree cuts free of burrs/edges is key. the few times i've wound up with sloppy shifting have been the result of the housings not sitting square/home in their stops - so whatever you wind up buying, make sure you install it with attention to that.

Your are absolutely correct, Sir! I was thinking about that yesterday. Thank you for re-focusing our attention to the real issue.

tuxbailey
12-19-2017, 08:17 AM
on the topic of cables though - i've found that what is way more important than the cables themselves are how well you prep the housing. clean, square 90 degree cuts free of burrs/edges is key. the few times i've wound up with sloppy shifting have been the result of the housings not sitting square/home in their stops - so whatever you wind up buying, make sure you install it with attention to that.

Thanks. Hence I bought the CN-10 from a forum member instead of the generic brand cutter I had before. That cutter only gives me 50/50 chance of a clean cut for the housing.

Dead Man
12-19-2017, 10:30 AM
on the topic of cables though - i've found that what is way more important than the cables themselves are how well you prep the housing. clean, square 90 degree cuts free of burrs/edges is key. the few times i've wound up with sloppy shifting have been the result of the housings not sitting square/home in their stops - so whatever you wind up buying, make sure you install it with attention to that.

continuing on this... its also somewht important to pay attention to the curve in the housing when cutting.. ive noticed with the front brake and rear der piece especially the tendency for the housing to butt into the ferrule at an angle after bending to shape. i think its more of an issue with traditional parallel wire housing (dont know what the different styles are called) but even the more solid? coil? types generally found in der cable still do the funky angle thing, whick seems to me coukd easily add some slop to shifting and brake modulation

so for pieces thatll be bending alot or sharply, i try to remember to bend before cutting.

and now that ive presented this as original Dead Man wisdom, i suddenly feel like i might have even read this somewhere, years ago.. so maybe its already common knowlegde

NHAero
12-19-2017, 12:58 PM
I'm about to cable up my first couple of 11 speed Shimano systems. This thread seems not to have converged to a consensus on best practice. Tuxbailey shows us a packaged Shimano cable set of 4mm housing and 1.2mm cable, which several respected PL members have warned us against. Are folks saying Shimano's stuff doesn't work on other brands, or that it doesn't work well period?

dddd
12-20-2017, 12:41 AM
I'm about to cable up my first couple of 11 speed Shimano systems. This thread seems not to have converged to a consensus on best practice. Tuxbailey shows us a packaged Shimano cable set of 4mm housing and 1.2mm cable, which several respected PL members have warned us against. Are folks saying Shimano's stuff doesn't work on other brands, or that it doesn't work well period?

Shimano inner wires won't fit through the tiny hole in the spool of a SRAM road shifter.

Obviously Shimano's cables and kits are of good quality. I can't think of anything Shimano makes that isn't of good quality relative to it's price-level competition, though with things like wheels it gets tricky when certain kinds of riders are looking to exploit/maximize certain specific performance parameters.

Me, I'd say Shimano's cables/housings/kits are the best. But there is lots of good stuff to choose from these days, and aftermarket cables housings usually perform well enough to go unnoticed.

NHAero
12-20-2017, 05:52 AM
Thanks for that clarification. I set up the first bike last night, 1x11 with ST-6800, and used the 1.2 cable that comes in the shifter with the existing SP41 housing on the bike. All works fine. As I had read elsewhere, the 11 speed appears less finicky to set up than the 10 speed - I'm guessing that changing the pull ratio was a contributing benefit.

Shimano inner wires won't fit through the tiny hole in the spool of a SRAM road shifter.

Obviously Shimano's cables and kits are of good quality. I can't think of anything Shimano makes that isn't of good quality relative to it's price-level competition, though with things like wheels it gets tricky when certain kinds of riders are looking to exploit/maximize certain specific performance parameters.

Me, I'd say Shimano's cables/housings/kits are the best. But there is lots of good stuff to choose from these days, and aftermarket cables housings usually perform well enough to go unnoticed.

oldpotatoe
12-20-2017, 07:00 AM
I'm about to cable up my first couple of 11 speed Shimano systems. This thread seems not to have converged to a consensus on best practice. Tuxbailey shows us a packaged Shimano cable set of 4mm housing and 1.2mm cable, which several respected PL members have warned us against. Are folks saying Shimano's stuff doesn't work on other brands, or that it doesn't work well period?

It'll be fine..make the housing long enough, they are mateched like that for a reason..shimano has been making thir cable kits 'for a while'...

Except for too big of a head on der cables for Campag, it DOES work fine with other component brands. Either get a 'far superior Campagnolo' der inner wire for Campag(smaller head) or make it smaller(not recommended..it may come off)..BUT spending a few extra $ on quality inner wires instead of weird, off branded stuff from wally-world, for yer big buck(or not big buck) rig is worth the $.

IMHO, of course, 'pal'...;)