Experiences switching trainers

[Dave B]

Currently I have a tacx trainer where you attach via the rear wheel and it spins the flywheel, basically the traditional kind. I’m curious has anyone switched from that type of trainer to the direct drive kind where you don’t have a rear wheel at all you just attach your bike to their machine and attach a cassette?

I have read all of the marketing hype, but was curious if anyone had switched and could give me any experiences good or bad.

While I would appreciate to know if you felt it was worth it to “upgrade,” I am more interested in the differences in how it felt or if the hype really does justify the ad copy.

Cheers

[dem]

Well it isn't life changing, but I definitely prefer it. If you're buying a new trainer anyways, direct-drive is the way to go. And double-definitely if you're going to do Zwift or similar - it's just more consistent feel and experience.

If you're happy with what you have, I doubt you'll feel it is worth the expense.

(I had both TacX Bushido & 1UP USA wheel-on, and went to KICKR direct drive)

[11.4]

Setup is now reproducible and quick.

If your frame wiggled in the traditional trainer, it doesn't in a direct-mount trainer.

If you could skid your wheel on the contact drum originally, you won't with the direct-mount.

Your (virtual) rear wheel will in most cases be closer to the ground with the direct-mount trainer, so your bike will feel more like it's level.

If your old trainer walked across the floor a bit, the direct-mount trainers generally do not.

Noise is less, as is vibration.

Never have an oil leak with direct mount, which you could do with some traditional trainers.

Less temperature transition as the direct-mount trainer warms up; a traditional trainer could change resistance and smoothness quite significantly.

That's all for starters. Then you plug it into some software and the changes become noticeable.

[kramnnim]

Huge difference, would hate to go back to the non direct drive.

[AngryScientist]

the only good reason to upgrade trainers, in my opinion, here in 2017 - is to get a smart trainer that varies the resistance and allows you to take advantage of power based software like zwift, trainer road, etc.

there arent too many real "game changers" - but the smart trainers are really that with regard to indoor training. it's a completely different landscape now.

my trainer is a rear wheel resistance unit smart trainer. it definitely has some bugs that would be solved by a direct drive trainer, but none that are so bothersome to me that i would upgrade, unless my current trainer broke.

[sun]

I made the switch from a Kurt Kinetic to a Wahoo Kickr. The bike feels much more planted and there is no fear of the tire slipping. A couple of things to note. Make sure your bike fits correctly. I didn't think about it when I purchased a new bike 2 weeks ago and the chain stay rubbed on the Kickr. This doesn't typically happen with trainers with the rear wheel as the part connecting to it telescopes. Depending where your trainer is and where you park your bike, you may need to wheel in the bike with no rear wheel and it's a bit of a pain and the chain rubs on the chain stay. Otherwise, the switch has been good.

[Dave B]

Ok I appreciate the info, most likely going to pick one up after xmas hoping to find a deal.

My trainer of choice is the Tacx Flux. pricey enough for me, but is there something that blows this out of the water that I should look at? Don't think it would be wise to go over a grand for a trainer, but if there truly is something worthy I would rethink it.


Any suggestions that work really well and you would buy again if you had to?

[AngryScientist]

what are your goals for the trainer?

are you trying to use some of the new power virtual software like zwift, trainer road, etc, or do you just want to pound out some workouts inside?

[oldguy00]

Ok I appreciate the info, most likely going to pick one up after xmas hoping to find a deal.

My trainer of choice is the Tacx Flux. pricey enough for me, but is there something that blows this out of the water that I should look at? Don't think it would be wise to go over a grand for a trainer, but if there truly is something worthy I would rethink it.


Any suggestions that work really well and you would buy again if you had to?

I would get a kickr instead of a flux. I think they are pretty much the same price, no?

[loxx0050]

I would get a kickr instead of a flux. I think they are pretty much the same price, no?

No they are not. Kickr (direct drive version) is $1200. Flux is $900. Is a Kickr nicer than a Flux, I say so, but $300 is a pretty hefty difference that one has to decide for oneself what is the better option.

Cycleops Hammer and that Elite version (think it is Direto?) is same price as Kickr though. Not sure which one I'd go between Hammer, Direto? or Kickr, they are all pretty equivalent but pros/cons for each.

The Tacx Neo is the king of cost (but features too) at $1600.

I've been eyeballing smart trainers for a few months but have yet to pull the trigger...for fear of forgiveness really more than anything ;)

[shovelhd]

I think he's referring to the NOS 2016 versions that have been on sale through Wahoo for $899.

[DfCas]

if you get a direct drive trainer I suggest a dedicated bike for it, if you will take it off frequently to ride outside. Reason is it -might- need the derailleur adjusted every time you put it on or take it off.

I have a Tacx neo Smart which I really like but it did adjust differently than the wheel that was on the bike I use on it.

I much prefer the direct mount over the tire mount type.

[oldguy00]

I think he's referring to the NOS 2016 versions that have been on sale through Wahoo for $899.

Those, and pretty easy to find the odd discount code online, etc.

I know a few folks around me that had issues with their Neo's. Plus, I've had bad experience with Tacx VR stuff in the past, so I won't go back.
I'm not overly familiar with the flux, but my understanding is that it is a cheaper version of the Neo, which doesn't inspire confidence....

Strictly my own .02......YMMV and all that stuff...

[DfCas]

The Flux is not a cheaper version of the Neo and its design is totally different. It has a belt but the Neo does not My Neo has been perfect from day 1 but a few people have had problems, but that's true of all trainers.

[Raffy]

if you get a direct drive trainer I suggest a dedicated bike for it, if you will take it off frequently to ride outside. Reason is it -might- need the derailleur adjusted every time you put it on or take it off.


Pardon the off-topic question but why does the indexing differ from direct drive trainer to a regular rear wheel? I have the same experience - whenever I put my bike on my Kickr, I have to index it up towards the lighter gears. I have eTap so it's easy enough to adjust when I go out but I've always wondered why the difference in indexing if the rear spacing is the same?

[cmbicycles]

Pardon the off-topic question but why does the indexing differ from direct drive trainer to a regular rear wheel? I have the same experience - whenever I put my bike on my Kickr, I have to index it up towards the lighter gears. I have eTap so it's easy enough to adjust when I go out but I've always wondered why the difference in indexing if the rear spacing is the same?
It's like swapping a different rear hub/wheel on a bike, exact spacing of where the cassette sits in relation to outer locknut spacing (and derailleur stops) can be slightly different between manufacturers.

[11.4]

I got a second-hand CAAD10 frame that fit me well, and mounted it with a Kreitler front fork mount on a Kickr. Thus, no wheels. It has no brakes, only a rear derailleur, and of course a cockpit, saddle, seat post, and crankset. Since you'll be sweating all over it anyway, I kept it simple and used parts that I got cheaply. The whole setup, excluding the Kickr itself, cost under a thousand, and I could have probably done it for half of that. It's a nicer setup because it's always ready, you aren't worrying about the frame (just use alloy or carbon, not a steel frame), and you can tune the setup to give you just the kind of ergo you want. Mine had a 12-21 cassette with one 9-speed shifter and one de-gutted left shifter. It all works very nicely and makes it very easy and instantaneous to jump on the bike. Never a tire to inflate or anything I have to worry about.

[Andy sti]

I got a second-hand CAAD10 frame that fit me well, and mounted it with a Kreitler front fork mount on a Kickr. Thus, no wheels. It has no brakes, only a rear derailleur, and of course a cockpit, saddle, seat post, and crankset....

That is a killer set-up. Good idea on putting that together.

I use Inside Ride rollers with my power meter. I can do all my workouts just fine. I also use my TT bike on the rollers. Just a quick adjustment for the wheelbase and I'm good to go. Pretty much any effort 30 sec or greater is good on the rollers. I'm just not comfortable with full standing sprints.

[Dave B]

Thanks folks.

OK let me see if I cannot answer some questions here that I saw asked.


1. My goals in this quest are to work my proverbial arse off this winter to begin my spring in better cycling shape (and overall shape) then I have ever been. I have the horrible routine of slacking off in the winter and come spring start over every flipping time. I kick my booty all summer long and then school begins again and fitness goes to the bottom of the list. I am making some big changes to lifestyle as we speak and think I might actually take cycling seriously to see if I cannot get to a level of fitness that I am sure is hiding inside somewhere. I have used ZWIFT and like it just fine. I have the 4th gen apple TV so I can now use that and stop using my iphone or ipad. I guess i want to really look at the indoor training as a second or third season if you will. I simply want to be better at a level I haven't pushed myself to. I think the term is called dedication. :eek:

2. I have a TACX smart trainer that uses the fly wheel and rear tire. It has been glitchy throughout my entire time with it, but I just figured that was blue tooth issues. It is ok and I don't mind it, but some of the stupid issues people mentioned always kind of bug, this is me just being prissy and finicky, so it is working for the time being. Talking to some people here and locally they have not had near any issues with a direct drive trainer and have spoken very much like the way folks here have described them as truly being a better option...mostly road feel and preference.

Side note, I goggled ZWIFT set ups just for pure information and saw so many direct drive trainers it got me thinking there might be something to it other then just having the flashiest stuff, hence my query.

3. I have a bike that will work fine, carbon, not a high zoot bike and i am happy to take the junk rear wheel off and adjust the rear derailleur to make it work on the direct drive. That is not a concern. Plus I might also be able to use a MTB on it with a direct drive and that could be a fun change, but I don't know if that truly is possible.

4. I am happy to look at different models, but had zero idea how much they cost until beginning my search. Hence the what I guess is the NOS 2016 Tacx Flux. I have no other reason to like that one over others, but I haven't read many bad reviews. Way more good than bad. I am not at all, one bit, loyal to that company or trainer and truly haven't given other brands much thought. Happy to do that.

Again thank you for the help. Most likely hope to find an after xmas holiday deal somewhere.

[shovelhd]

I have an early Tacx Bushido Smart, and it was also glitchy until I updated the firmware on it last year. It's been rock solid ever since. No problem if you want to upgrade to a direct drive, but before you give up on the Tacx you should make sure it's up to date.

[johnniecakes]

I re3cently switched from a 1UP to a direct drive Elite Muin. I wish I would have done it sooner. The Elite is quiet and smooth and significantly more stable. I do not use any power or interactive features so I cannot speak to those things but for basic functions the direct drive soooo much better.

[loxx0050]

Ok, I didn't think about the NOS 2016 Kickr clearouts.

If I had the funds now, I'd go Tacx Flux honestly because....

Competitive Cyclist (or sometimes Backcountry) 20% off coupon works on Tacx, then there are rebate sites like ActiveJunky that give 8-10% rebate on your final purchase price. So a Flux would be:

900 regular price
180 off for the 20% coupon
57 to 72 rebate (assuming a 8 or 10% rebate)
= 648 to 662 total price

Add another rewards/cash back credit card and that can be another $10-15 too.

Or I've found that Cycleops trainers work with the coupons too so getting a Hammer for just under $900 is possible or a Tacx Neo for about $1150 or so is also possible (all after rebate rewards).

[trener1]

A couple of weeks ago Cycleops was advertising some brand new but slightly scratched Hammers for $999 I believe (basically $200 off), would be worth giving them a call to see if they still have them.

I also wouldn't totally write off the wheel on smart trainers, like the Kicker Snap or Cycleops Magnus, they both retail for $600 and should be very reliable unlike some of the cheaper offerings from Elite and Tacx.