Ultegra 6800 FD problems

[madsciencenow]

Anyone else have problems with ultegra 6800 FD pivot pins seizing up? My first derailleur lasted about 3500 miles before it quit working and the replacement lasted maybe 500. I talked to my LBS and the said they’ve seen the problem with the 105 and ultegra FDs. I asked about DA and they didn’t recall seeing the problem with the DA line. I’m contemplating replacing the ultegra with DA but thought I’d check here first to see what others have experienced?




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[Cicli]

Nope, lots of miles on mine. Not any sign of an issue.

[TBLS]

Two bikes with 6800, plenty (5000 or so) of miles, no pivot or other issues

[Gummee]

If you're going to get a new derailleur, get the new new version with the linkage

Mo bettah

M

[zennmotion]

Maybe asking a stupid question, but is your cable routing correct? The cable if it got loose at some point could slip on the wrong side of the little pin which would make it seem like it's stuck when pulling on the cable. If you can move the derailleur with your hand w/o the cable, then there's something wrong somewhere along the routing. See p. 14 on shimano's instructions for proper routing around the pin (or see the arrow on your derailleur, it's easy to miss and set it up wrong if you don't notice and just try to set it up like earlier 10sp models.

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf

If you did get a lemon derailleur, I'd still replace it with 6800 or 105, or the newer version of Ultegra (8000) as there is no performance advantage to DA that's worth 2X the cost over 6800/8000 IMO. If the long arm is an issue with fat tires, a shimano CX70 derailleur works well as an inexpesive option, just a little more fussy to set up, but the shifting is fine once adjusted, but this issue was resolved with the newer 8000 version

[madsciencenow]

Maybe asking a stupid question, but is your cable routing correct? The cable if it got loose at some point could slip on the wrong side of the little pin which would make it seem like it's stuck when pulling on the cable. If you can move the derailleur with your hand w/o the cable, then there's something wrong somewhere along the routing. See p. 14 on shimano's instructions for proper routing around the pin (or see the arrow on your derailleur, it's easy to miss and set it up wrong if you don't notice and just try to set it up like earlier 10sp models.

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf

If you did get a lemon derailleur, I'd still replace it with 6800 or 105, or the newer version of Ultegra (8000) as there is no performance advantage to DA that's worth 2X the cost over 6800/8000 IMO. If the long arm is an issue with fat tires, a shimano CX70 derailleur works well as an inexpesive option, just a little more fussy to set up, but the shifting is fine once adjusted, but this issue was resolved with the newer 8000 version



I’ll have to check the setup and see.

I should have mentioned that the problem occurs when going from the big ring to the small ring. There’s no tension on the cable and the only way to get the derailleur to drop is to kick it with my heel while riding or use my hand to manually push it over. The problem can be initially fixed by working the derailleur by hand or shifting but over time gets worse to the point where it’s unusable. My pseudo LBS indicated that one of the mechanics has four derailleurs that he rotates through a solution that remedies the problem temporarily. In addition, shimano will warranty the derailleur if contacted but claims they don’t know anything about it.

One last point is that I currently live in the Atlanta area where it’s either hot or hot and humid for a good part of the year. I swear pretty badly and my LBS in Atl thinks this is the problem.

I guess the pins on the DA version are made from the same material as the Ultegra?

I recently installed the R8000 on another bike so it will be interesting to see if the problem arises on this bike as well.


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[moobikes]

Do you keep your bike washed and lubed? All you may need to do is to properly oil all of the derailleur pivots regularly and get some oil on the springs to prevent corrosion. Use an oil type lube instead of a waxy dry lube.

Lots of people lube only the chain but the derailleurs need lube, too. Once the pivots start to corrode they will never move as smoothly as new.

[madsciencenow]

I do keep my bikes clean with Pedro’s Bike Lust and regularly lube my chain (every other ride) but I’ve never lubed the derailleur.

In the past I’ve had SRAM and ridden 1000s of miles with no issues. Apparently, I either got lucky or Shimano requires more maintenance?

Previously, I had an ultegra di2 setup and I was the second owner. I rode that bike well over 10,000 miles and aside from the chain and cassette I don’t think I ever did any other maintenance. Maybe I need to get an etap group for this bike!?


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[oldpotatoe]

I do keep my bikes clean with Pedro’s Bike Lust and regularly lube my chain (every other ride) but I’ve never lubed the derailleur.

In the past I’ve had SRAM and ridden 1000s of miles with no issues. Apparently, I either got lucky or Shimano requires more maintenance?

Previously, I had an ultegra di2 setup and I was the second owner. I rode that bike well over 10,000 miles and aside from the chain and cassette I don’t think I ever did any other maintenance. Maybe I need to get an etap group for this bike!?


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Or maybe a bottle of this and drip a wee bit on der pvot points..

[johnniecakes]

A little lube in every moving assembly goes along way in keeping everything operating smoothly and reducing wear and corrosion.

[Clancy]

Tri-Flow

Place a drop on the limit screws, pivot points of front and rear derailleur every time the chain is cleaned and lubed.

Place a drop on each nipple where the spoke threads in and a drop at the base of the nipple on each nipple, front and back wheels, every time the bike is washed.

Using a spray silicon cleaner/lubricant, flush both shifters every time the bike is washed. Work the shifters as they are being sprayed.

Doing the above adds only a few minutes and done routinely will prevent 99% of problems.

If people did that along with keeping their chains cleaned/lubed and paid attention to their tires, 1/2 of all bike mechanics would be out of work.

That assumes of course all is installed and adjusted correctly.

[madsciencenow]

Clancy, JohnnieCakes, OP, and others: the idea that other parts should be lubed makes perfect sense and I’ll be doing this going forward.

All input here is much appreciated!

I also want to say that the fact that you all took the time to point out what is probably the obvious to most of you all is a huge testament to the quality of the individuals that are part of this forum. Thanks!


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[bitpuddle]

I haven’t seen that. 6800 front shifting is quite good when set up correctly.

That being said, 6800 front derailleurs are quite sensitive to both cable tension and the angle at which the cable enters the mechanism (hence the little adapter on the derailleur and the little setup template Shimano gives you).

I think the DA front derailleur is a worthy upgrade, though. The shifting seems noticeably better and the price difference isn’t much. I’m particularly fond of the cable attachment/adjustment on the new 9100 front.

[bitpuddle]

I do keep my bikes clean with Pedro’s Bike Lust and regularly lube my chain (every other ride)

That seems a bit too often.

but I’ve never lubed the derailleur.

That doesn’t seem quite often enough.

[TiminVA]

I have the same problem. I lube the pivots and spring about once a month to prevent them from "sticking". I'm in a humid area and sweat a lot as well and think that is the main cause.