HELP: Advice on new Cross Build

[mmelito]

I purchased a Cross frame and need advice on how to fit it out.
My goal is to build a 1x setup for this new build.

Specs:

1. Steel Frame with a PF30 BB Shell 68mm
2. Disc Front and back POST mount
3. 12x100 TA Front 142x12mm TA Rear (Paragonworks dropouts)
4. Fit 140mm Rotors without adapters
5. CK Inset Headset
6. Considering Kogel Cross ceramic BB for PF30
7 Purchased Stans Notubes Holy Grail Team wheelset (not-XD)

So i was considering the SRAM CX 1 (1x11) group set with the BB30 spindle (but this seems in very short supply / back-ordered to all heck). I prefer to stay with a 30mm spindle to avoid 24mm adapters - reduce the liklihood of creaky BB. Any crank alternatives?

I would prefer a hydro disc setup, however shimano only seem to produce flat mount calipers - a show stopper for me.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Fingers Cross-ed :banana:

[sandyrs]

I purchased a Cross frame and need advice on how to fit it out.
My goal is to build a 1x setup for this new build.

Specs:

1. Steel Frame with a PF30 BB Shell 68mm
2. Disc Front and back POST mount
3. 12x100 TA Front 142x12mm TA Rear (Paragonworks dropouts)
4. Fit 140mm Rotors without adapters
5. CK Inset Headset
6. Considering Kogel Cross ceramic BB for PF30
7 Purchased Stans Notubes Holy Grail Team wheelset (not-XD)

So i was considering the SRAM CX 1 (1x11) group set with the BB30 spindle (but this seems in very short supply / back-ordered to all heck). I prefer to stay with a 30mm spindle to avoid 24mm adapters - reduce the liklihood of creaky BB. Any crank alternatives?

I would prefer a hydro disc setup, however shimano only seem to produce flat mount calipers - a show stopper for me.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Fingers Cross-ed :banana:

Prior generation shimano road hydro levers are paired with post mount calipers. rs685 and rs785. They are great. Not ideal for 1x because you will need a cable pull converter to be able to use a clutch rear derailleur (wolf tooth tanpan + shimano mtb Rd) though.

[acorn_user]

The new Easton crank looks pretty nice. The other specs you mention just make me feel out of date though (my bike has italian threads, threaded headset and cantis!) :)

[gottchajimmy]

I'm building a cx bike myself
Right now
1. Steel frame
2. Disc
3. Purchased Sram Force 1x
4. It came with a CK headset
5. Planning to build a wheelset off CK R45D but debating between Easton, Hed Belgium, or Grails?
Can I ask why you chose the grails?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CiclistiCliff]

Get GXP version of crank.

Install Praxis bottom bracket.

It'll never creak.

All PF30/BB30/BBRight nonsense creaks.

[45K10]

If you plan on racing it I would suggest you get a standard Sram PF30 BB and save some money. I have used all of the high end PF BB in the past thinking they would last and I was sorely disappointed. I would end up going through 2 or 3 BB in a season. Just get the green loctite (682??) and go with the $40 BB and get a good removal tool.

[Gummee]

Get GXP version of crank.

Install Wheels Manufacturing or Enduro bottom bracket.

It'll never creak.

All PF30/BB30/BBRight nonsense creaks.

fixt

M

[chiasticon]

If you plan on racing it I would suggest you get a standard Sram PF30 BB and save some money. I have used all of the high end PF BB in the past thinking they would last and I was sorely disappointed. I would end up going through 2 or 3 BB in a season. Just get the green loctite (682??) and go with the $40 BB and get a good removal tool.I can usually get through at least a season with a standard Truvativ Team (Sram) GXP BB, but we usually only have one or two muddy races a year (though at least one super sandy one). local race conditions will dictate life of your BB, really. I'd agree that a super high end BB isn't worth it though (King, Kogel, anything ceramic...), unless you're using like Praxis or Wheels Manufacturing with a GXP crank; you can actually pull the bearings and replace 'em with those.

Get GXP version of crank.

Install Praxis bottom bracket.

It'll never creak.

All PF30/BB30/BBRight nonsense creaks.yeah I'd go this route over BB30 crank, to be honest. or the Wheels Manufacturing BB30/GXP BB. otherwise, plan on pulling and re-greasing your crankset assembly once a week. :rolleyes:

[jtbadge]

Counterpoint: I had a steel PF30 frame for a couple of years with a BB30 native SRAM crank and a Wheels MFG PF30 BB... never a creak.

Less moving parts than an adapter solution. Cheaper. Lighter.

[mmelito]

The grails were a deal I couldn't refuse.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I'm now think of going to a flat bar setup and mtb parts. It would make I soooo much easier and cheaper..... sigh


I'm building a cx bike myself
Right now
1. Steel frame
2. Disc
3. Purchased Sram Force 1x
4. It came with a CK headset
5. Planning to build a wheelset off CK R45D but debating between Easton, Hed Belgium, or Grails?
Can I ask why you chose the grails?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CiclistiCliff]

Counterpoint: I had a steel PF30 frame for a couple of years with a BB30 native SRAM crank and a Wheels MFG PF30 BB... never a creak.

Less moving parts than an adapter solution. Cheaper. Lighter.


How does a PF30 bb have less moving parts than a Praxis or Wheels reducer?

Both have bearings pressed into a housing on each side. Literally the same amount of parts.

[SpeedyChix]

Easton crank is very nice. Have been using one since they came out. I'd buy it again.