School me on Road Bike to Hybrid conversion

[BrickMick]

So my wife (a runner so far) wants to get into cycling but for the world does not want a drop bar. She test road some hyrbid bikes (e.g. Spec Vita) and that is what she wants.

Upon exploring options for hybrid bikes on the market I find that the typical hybrid bike from the usual suspects (Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, Giant, etc.) has inferior componentry (Sora and below) or goes way up in the price. I would also prefer her to have a 11s so she can also share my Kickr.

Since I have an almost complete 105/Ultegra group lying in my garage I was thinking to take a used road frame and slam that used 105/Ultegra group on it. I have most of the parts except for the straight bar shifters.

Where do I go wrong?
Is the geometry of a road bike completely different from that of a hybrid?
Would something not fit?

TIA for your input.

[cderalow]

hybrid geometry is much more upright compared to a road bike. this can be artificially created using a short stem and riser combo on a road bike.

you may want a slightly wider seat as more of the riders weight is borne on their butt.

[eddief]

take note of the geometry dimensions. then look at the geo for road frames. then build her a bike that matches. perhaps a Trek Domane. like this perhaps:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2016-Trek-Domane-5-Series-Frameset-52cm-Carbon-Road-Endurance-Frame-Set-52-/282601199145?hash=item41cc581629:g:DPsAAOSwOMdZSwF a

don't slam it too hard or you'll break it :).

[cmg]

Here's a video for a low budget conversion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyfnPva-wtg

[93KgBike]

Using a riser-stem and a flat bar, any road racing bike becomes a sporty "hybrid." Just make sure to buy the proper stem length/height and bar (flat/swept-back/other) to fit your sweetie where she is comfortable. Get her the shifter-style that she likes best. Put some lightweight 32's on it and you're done.

Don't overpad the seat.

[sandyrs]

Using a riser-stem and a flat bar, any road racing bike becomes a sporty "hybrid." Just make sure to buy the proper stem length/height and bar (flat/swept-back/other) to fit your sweetie where she is comfortable. Get her the shifter-style that she likes best. Put some lightweight 32's on it and you're done.

Don't overpad the seat.

Assuming the frame fits 32's, of course.

That's where this plan might run into trouble: the limited tire clearance on modern road bikes (relative to hybrids).

If the bike uses short-reach caliper brakes, it will clear at best a 28 or 30.

[eddief]

should come very close.

Assuming the frame fits 32's, of course.

That's where this plan might run into trouble: the limited tire clearance on modern road bikes (relative to hybrids).

If the bike uses short-reach caliper brakes, it will clear at best a 28 or 30.

[mt2u77]

It's been a while since I've done one, and never with 11 spd, but I know in past generations of Shimano the cable pull of mtb front shifters is greater than road shifters. You'll need either a mtb shifter with a flat bar front derailleur to replace the front derailleur from your road group, or you need a flat bar shifter designed to pull the same amount of cable as a road shifter (or you could use bar ends on thumbies). I know that tidbit threw me for a loop when I did a flat bar conversion for a family member and attempted to use all parts bin stuff.

[sdrides]

If her hangup with the bars is just the feel of a drop bar being intimidating, or maybe a little too long of a reach, just build the bike with a flat bar and I bet she'll like it. The flat bar looks much more palatable for beginners, and it does shorten the reach to the controls which also makes them feel more comfortable. Don't sweat the tire width too much; wider tires might feel like more control, but the skinny tires will feel fast and sporty, so it's a win-win. The tricky part can be making flat bar shifters play nice with the derailleurs and brakes, but people have been doing these sorts of conversions all along so it can all be done.

[icepick_trotsky]

I recommend Nitto Albatross for this purpose with a pair of bar end shifters. This has been my most successful #wifebike after several attempts.

Mrs. Trotsky and I do one or two 30-40 mile rides every weekend.

https://i.imgur.com/5RISOh6l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/K9kKIuXl.jpg

[classtimesailer]

Like the Cannonade. Any road bike with the correct ST and bars like the Albatross or Soma Oxford (which I used on mine). A shorter stem is nice. Bar ends are the bomb on any bike so use those. Get her a Brooks B66 and point it up. MKS Sylvans for pedals.

[BrickMick]

I am thinking there must be compatible flat bar shifters available as you can buy hybrids with 105 or Ultegra.

It's been a while since I've done one, and never with 11 spd, but I know in past generations of Shimano the cable pull of mtb front shifters is greater than road shifters. You'll need either a mtb shifter with a flat bar front derailleur to replace the front derailleur from your road group, or you need a flat bar shifter designed to pull the same amount of cable as a road shifter (or you could use bar ends on thumbies). I know that tidbit threw me for a loop when I did a flat bar conversion for a family member and attempted to use all parts bin stuff.

[oldpotatoe]

Flat bar shifter-road 11s derailleur compatibility will be an issue but get a 'mustache' bar and mount the road STI shifters on them....works great.

[gdw]

I believe that Shimano RS700 flat bar shifters are designed to work with 11 speed road derailleurs.

[icepick_trotsky]

Flat bar shifter-road 11s derailleur compatibility will be an issue but get a 'mustache' bar and mount the road STI shifters on them....works great.

Mustache bars also accept bar ends.

However, the "hoods" position is not much different that with drops. May not be what she's looking for.

[BrickMick]

Found these shifters from Shimano. Specifically designed for this purpose.
Compatible with all 11s raod groups (5800,6800,900,9100, 8000).
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=74304&gclid=CjwKCAjwlrnNBRBMEiwApKU4PD-dgREoyGPdOiiILu9_4WDWP157n_wCby-jz6C9LWuEazxS1ugZahoCIj8QAvD_BwE

[rrudoff]

My wife was of the flat bar opinion too when she started riding seriously about 5 years ago. Ended up buying her a medium to high end Specialized Hybrid and 6 months later she realized the multiple hand positions of drop bars would be a lot better for her wrists, ended up with another bike, and DI2 as she found mechanical shifting hard for her small hands and bad wrists. I would check why your wife does not like the drop bar, is it shifting, braking, or is it the overall position? You might also add cross levers on the tops, again, for my wife this can often be more comfortable than always on the hoods or drops.

[icepick_trotsky]

In general, I think you have a good idea. Build the flat bar road bike as opposed to the off-the-shelf hybrid.

Then if she changes her mind or wants different hand positions later, swap the bars and add road shifters. You probably have those around already.

[NHAero]

I second the Albatross bars, because they offer multiple hand positions and work great with bar end shifters.

[tourmalet]

Another low-cost solution: add interrupter (cross-style) levers so she can ride confidently on the flats of the road handlebar. Road bikes are twitchy compared to commuter geometries, and beginners always complain that they feel like they have no control when on the hoods or the drops. After a few rides, I bet she'll get the confidence to ride on the hoods.

[fbhidy]

Depending on the frame, you may be able to go to long reach brakes and 32+mm on 650b wheels...

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[BrickMick]

You have exactly the right thought and I tried to convince her but to no avail. No drop bar period.


My wife was of the flat bar opinion too when she started riding seriously about 5 years ago. Ended up buying her a medium to high end Specialized Hybrid and 6 months later she realized the multiple hand positions of drop bars would be a lot better for her wrists, ended up with another bike, and DI2 as she found mechanical shifting hard for her small hands and bad wrists. I would check why your wife does not like the drop bar, is it shifting, braking, or is it the overall position? You might also add cross levers on the tops, again, for my wife this can often be more comfortable than always on the hoods or drops.

[BrickMick]

That is another good point.
I really wonder whether she will change her mind later.

In general, I think you have a good idea. Build the flat bar road bike as opposed to the off-the-shelf hybrid.

Then if she changes her mind or wants different hand positions later, swap the bars and add road shifters. You probably have those around already.

[BrickMick]

Lots of good input.
Thank you to everyone.
Will keep you posted on what I end up doimg.

[vqdriver]

I did this not too long ago. Had a grip of extra parts and wheels. Bought a cx frame and fork and built it up

[Doug Fattic]

i would caution that most standard road frames have a 73º seat angle or greater and than doesn't work well with upright handlebars. The position of most drop handlebars is lower than the seat and rotates the body and butt forward. Upright handlebars rotate the body way back by comparison and as a result requires a swallower seat angle to match where a person's butt wants to be.

My wife has a standard road bike and I converted her other touring bike with a 72º seat angle to upright handlebars. She likes using it when we ride on bike trails for more casual riding.

One reason many women don't like drop bars is because unless they can be raised high enough (probably to the same height as her seat or more), it places too much pressure on their sensitive areas. This inconvenience can be overlooked by guys wanting to set up their partner's position similar to how they prefer.

[Ken Robb]

Mustache bars also accept bar ends.

However, the "hoods" position is not much different that with drops. May not be what she's looking for.

I think I remember that Rivendell USED to sell Moustache bars in both diameters so you could use either mountain or road controls. They now offer a very slightly different bar to achieve similar results. Just be sure you don't get the wrong diameter for the controls you want to use.

[MikeD]

i would caution that most standard road frames have a 73º seat angle or greater and than doesn't work well with upright handlebars. The position of most drop handlebars is lower than the seat and rotates the body and butt forward. Upright handlebars rotate the body way back by comparison and as a result requires a swallower seat angle to match where a person's butt wants to be.

My wife has a standard road bike and I converted her other touring bike with a 72º seat angle to upright handlebars. She likes using it when we ride on bike trails for more casual riding.

One reason many women don't like drop bars is because unless they can be raised high enough (probably to the same height as her seat or more), it places too much pressure on their sensitive areas. This inconvenience can be overlooked by guys wanting to set up their partner's position similar to how they prefer.


Makes no sense to me. 72 degree seat angles are too slack and very few frames come with this slack a seat tube angle these days. It will cause a more acute angle between your back and femur and cause you to have to rotate your hips forward which puts more pressure on the sensitive bits, given the same bar height and reach.

Problems you refer to can be caused by a variety of other factors including saddle height and tilt, a saddle that just doesn't work (too narrow, wide, needing cutouts, etc.). Handlebars that are too high transfer all your weight to your butt instead of having the arms take some of the load.

[Doug Fattic]

Makes no sense to me. 72 degree seat angles are too slack and very few frames come with this slack a seat tube angle these days. It will cause a more acute angle between your back and femur and cause you to have to rotate your hips forward which puts more pressure on the sensitive bits, given the same bar height and reach.

Problems you refer to can be caused by a variety of other factors including saddle height and tilt, a saddle that just doesn't work (too narrow, wide, needing cutouts, etc.). Handlebars that are too high transfer all your weight to your butt instead of having the arms take some of the load.
Frames that are specifically designed for mustache type of bars have even slacker seat angles than 72º. We are not talking about using semi-straight MTB bars. A look at the specifications of Dutch transportation bicycles will show they commonly put the seat angle at 70º or less. You won't find frames made specifically for that kind of upright handlebars with a 73º seat angle.

Another characteristic of frames made specifically for M shaped handlebars (like the kind that was on old English 3 speeds with internal hub gears) is longer top tubes. For example a mid sized frame is likely to have one that is a 58cm long. This is necessary to place the hands far enough away from the body on the swept back handlebars.

This is why I cautioned about converting a traditional road frame to upright handlebars. The results aren't likely to be optimum.

[GunnarDude]

Not the most precise info, but...

I converted a mid-80's Nishiki to a semi-hybrid. Bought some Nitto handlebars and Shimano R900 trigger shifters that index great with ten speed stuff. Added some flat brake levers, rubber grips, and fenders. It's my go-to short distance bar/grocery/party bike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[charliedid]

^ Exactly

Don't worry so much about the geo numbers just do it.

Try your local bike shop.

[sirskialot22]

I'm currently riding a mid 90s bianchi forza with mildly swept back bars and it functions exceptionally well for a quick around town bike and hitting the rail trails, still being light and nimble with a nice upright seating position for carrying heavy bags or watching traffic. It has downtube shifters still, which i wouldn't recommend compared with handlebar mounted options (you could also check out Paul's Thumbies for a mechanically simple option).

[sdrides]

Don't worry so much about the geo numbers just do it.

Boom.

[BrickMick]

Thanks again everybody for your input.
So the project is meanwhile work-in-progress.

Now I coming across picking a handle bar that works for my converted hybrid bike and also brake levers that work with the (105) calipers.
Found these levers: Shimano-R550 (http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-R550-Flat-Bar-Road-Brake-Levers). I suppose they would work?

What can you recommend?

TIA

[vqdriver]

i went thru the same process for my wife.

couple things:
don't underestimate the importance of standover. it goes a really long way to rider comfort and security depending on cycling experience. for the crossover athlete, it's a great security blanket to feel like they can reach the ground without issue. the saddle can creep up as their comfort level improves. for this a sloping tt is great.

hybrid (and mtb) tt will seem long because they're designed around flat bars. this can complicate frame choice because typically a longer tt has a correspondingly long st, hence sloping tt. you can accomplish the same with a longer stem if you already have a frame but having a shorter reach and lower saddle will help towards the above. use a normal length stem at first before getting anything longer.

components are meh. just put on whatever you've got and go from there. emphasize rider comfort first, otherwise little saddle time makes the build moot.

[palincss]

So my wife (a runner so far) wants to get into cycling but for the world does not want a drop bar. She test road some hyrbid bikes (e.g. Spec Vita) and that is what she wants.

Upon exploring options for hybrid bikes on the market I find that the typical hybrid bike from the usual suspects (Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, Giant, etc.) has inferior componentry (Sora and below) or goes way up in the price. I would also prefer her to have a 11s so she can also share my Kickr.

Since I have an almost complete 105/Ultegra group lying in my garage I was thinking to take a used road frame and slam that used 105/Ultegra group on it. I have most of the parts except for the straight bar shifters.

Where do I go wrong?
Is the geometry of a road bike completely different from that of a hybrid?
Would something not fit?

TIA for your input.

The smart thing for you to do would be to get exactly the bike she says she wants, and stop worrying about Kickr (whatever that is). If later down the road she wants "better" there's a world of time and opportunity to find out what "better" means to her.