Servicing Campy Cult bearings/Carbon hubs

[galgal]

I've zero experience in servicing carbon hubs/cult bearings so could use some advice from knowledgeable folk here who have.
The Campy PDF files make it seem straightforward with appropriate tools, I doubt it's that simple. On the other hand, came across several articles warning against even trying to service the carbon hubs/cult bearings as a bad idea and only Campy should do so. So, first question, just how complicated a process is it to service cult bearings in Campy hubs that have gone rough? Secondly, can rough cult hub bearings even be brought back to smooth functioning? Read some statements suggesting that is a no go? Obviously, it would depend on how rough they were, but don't have the wheels at hand, am considering getting them, based on input here. Apologies for not being more specific, but any input is appreciated and hey we get to use the world cult without political weirdness:)

[jwd]

I never had ceramic bearings but I have rebuilt some campy/fulcrum hubs. There are a lot of good videos online (some from campy) on how to do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yQcvLbJOW8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xM9SiZVYe_g

It's mostly a matter of cleaning/degreasing and putting back together. Not sure what lubricant you need to use on ceramic bearings, but the first video might help! Good luck!

[ldamelio]

No harder than rebuilding any other loose ball (these are in a cage) hub. CULT and USB last forever unless you're beating them up with cross/wet gravel rides. Take the hub apart in sequence, clean, light Teflon grease, and reassemble. Wouldn't replace the bearings unless palpably rough. Don't ovetthink this one.

[oldpotatoe]

I've zero experience in servicing carbon hubs/cult bearings so could use some advice from knowledgeable folk here who have.
The Campy PDF files make it seem straightforward with appropriate tools, I doubt it's that simple. On the other hand, came across several articles warning against even trying to service the carbon hubs/cult bearings as a bad idea and only Campy should do so. So, first question, just how complicated a process is it to service cult bearings in Campy hubs that have gone rough? Secondly, can rough cult hub bearings even be brought back to smooth functioning? Read some statements suggesting that is a no go? Obviously, it would depend on how rough they were, but don't have the wheels at hand, am considering getting them, based on input here. Apologies for not being more specific, but any input is appreciated and hey we get to use the world cult without political weirdness:)

Actually really simple 5mm allen to loosen the left side axle end..2mm allen to loosen the adjust plate..lefty loosey, tap axle end once both off. Axle with FH body attached slides out. Seals out, bearings out..clean cones and cups, grease, in spite of what Campag says, put back together. Clean pawls and I use Mobil One car oil on pawls.
If the bearing in the FH body is toasted, easy to take out the outboard one. Axle end on drive side is left threaded..righty-loosey with a 17mm open end wrench..Cart bearing is a standard size(6701?6703?) don't remember..I have some.

If the cones are pitted, replace, and I'd recommend standard cones and stainless ball bearings(15 5/32 in each cage)..if the cups are pitted, bigger problem but probably just dirt gets in there and makes things rough.

[Hank Scorpio]

If the bearing in the FH body is toasted, easy to take out the outboard one. Axle end on drive side is left threaded..righty-loosey with a 17mm open end wrench..Cart bearing is a standard size(6701?6703?) don't remember..I have some.

Any tips or tricks you have to share on getting the inboard one out? I tried a dental pick but the tip was no match for that retaining clip. Why didn't they just use a normal circlip?

[oldpotatoe]

Any tips or tricks you have to share on getting the inboard one out? I tried a dental pick but the tip was no match for that retaining clip. Why didn't they just use a normal circlip?

Measured from top of FH body to where blind c-clip is..drilled wee hole in the FH body, pushed C Clip out, tapped bearing out..replaced and replaced C Clip.

6803 bearings..remove the inner seal if 2rs..grease between the 2.

[Hank Scorpio]

Thanks will give that a shot! I guess you re-used the original clip. I was thinking of trying to find a circlip with the same circumference to replace it with.

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks will give that a shot! I guess you re-used the original clip. I was thinking of trying to find a circlip with the same circumference to replace it with.

Yes, reused the clip..been using the hub for a year w/o issue..so that wee hole is no big deal.

[galgal]

Actually really simple 5mm allen to loosen the left side axle end..2mm allen to loosen the adjust plate..lefty loosey, tap axle end once both off. Axle with FH body attached slides out. Seals out, bearings out..clean cones and cups, grease, in spite of what Campag says, put back together. Clean pawls and I use Mobil One car oil on pawls.
If the bearing in the FH body is toasted, easy to take out the outboard one. Axle end on drive side is left threaded..righty-loosey with a 17mm open end wrench..Cart bearing is a standard size(6701?6703?) don't remember..I have some.

If the cones are pitted, replace, and I'd recommend standard cones and stainless ball bearings(15 5/32 in each cage)..if the cups are pitted, bigger problem but probably just dirt gets in there and makes things rough.

Thank you for the precise instructions. Appreciate it, as well as the input and video links by others. This place rocks, and now I think I can manage this process.