Modified 6800 cassette.

[mktng]

Since ive had a few individuals message me about it.

Here are some pictures of my modified 6800 11 spd cassette.

After modification, it now works on my 10 spd only wheels.

So far this cheap mod has saved my power tap wheelset and a beautiful Royce wheelset.

I'd definitely recommend getting this done, however make sure you get it done by someone with the right tools and knowledge.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/a763ed050e1935cde9384e9d0d9e174e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/e2070252feb211bde143bef4867fad96.jpg

[8aaron8]

Are you having the back end milled down?

[stien]

We need a before pic for reference, but I think there is a lip on the back of the biggest cog carrier that's been machined off here. I've been known to take the material off the hub so you only have to do it once, instead of every time you need a new cassette!

[mktng]

Grabbed off google https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170724/eefbdbf769930d25989159ac6f1e386f.jpg

[hollowgram5]

I'd like to know how much material you removed, and at what diameter did you make your cuts!

[FriarQuade]

I've turned down a few free hub bodies for the same reason. Personally it makes more sense to do the free hub than to modify the consumable part.

[73Bronco]

Pretty cool. I always like to see how people mod their stuff to better suit them.

[bicycletricycle]

It would be pretty easy for me to do this on the latge if anyone is interested.

[ergott]

I assume 1.85mm mill depth and height enough to clear flange.

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[Mike V]

I have some I have done also. I did 1.85mm.

Local machinist company did mine. Same company makes fame couplers.

[dddd]

Larger cogs allow better derailer clearance at the spokes, so you might want to consider how this plays into your particular gearing setup.

I've read that 11s MTB cassettes will work even on a Shimano 10s wheelset, no modifications needed.

And different wheels will place spokes at a different lateral position where the derailer cage may try to come into contact.

I wouldn't personally take any metal off of the step on a freehub body unless I was somehow confident that the step would still have enough strength to resist the forces.

[weiwentg]

I assume 1.85mm mill depth and height enough to clear flange.

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Just so everyone's aware, you did advise (https://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=2226292&postcount=12) that milling the freehub body would be cutting things too close on the old Alchemy Orc 10s Shimano hub (not Orc UL, the first generation Orcs). I did have one guy advise me not to do this to my Chris King classic freehub as well, FWIW.