Record Hub Rebuild Newbie - best documentation?

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All

About to embark on the adventure of a full overhaul of a set of Record cup and cone hubs. I have the black 10s.

I find the Park guide to be non-specific, and the Campy documentation to be borderline incomprehensible. Is there a solid guide for what to do and how to do it? I think I'm competent with the preload adjustment, and I know how to take the thing apart, but I recognize I'm an amateur and I don't want to do anything wrong.

Also, what parts should I be replacing and where do I get them? The only Campy rebuild kits I've found so far are over $50 and look like they're for cartridge bearing systems.

- John

[Hindmost]

I don't have a link to documentation handy. Sorry.

It is unlikely that you will need replacement parts unless you are experiencing some sort of ratchet problem. Loose ball bearings can be replaced with those commonly available.

Accessing and servicing the free hub bearings is another level of difficulty and may not be necessary.

If you don't have the wire tool for positioning the pawls during reassembly dental floss will work.

[zmudshark]

I don't have a link to documentation handy. Sorry.

It is unlikely that you will need replacement parts unless you are experiencing some sort of ratchet problem. Loose ball bearings can be replaced with those commonly available.

Accessing and servicing the free hub bearings is another level of difficulty and may not be necessary.

If you don't have the wire tool for positioning the pawls during reassembly dental floss will work.

Not needed on 10s hubs. There is a spring that holds the pawls in place. I would recommend replacing that spring.

I have a pdf of the hubs, and am attempting to attach it here.

[oldpotatoe]

All

About to embark on the adventure of a full overhaul of a set of Record cup and cone hubs. I have the black 10s.

I find the Park guide to be non-specific, and the Campy documentation to be borderline incomprehensible. Is there a solid guide for what to do and how to do it? I think I'm competent with the preload adjustment, and I know how to take the thing apart, but I recognize I'm an amateur and I don't want to do anything wrong.

Also, what parts should I be replacing and where do I get them? The only Campy rebuild kits I've found so far are over $50 and look like they're for cartridge bearing systems.

- John

2.5mm Allen, loosen adjust plate. 5mm allens in both axle ends. Lefty loosey non drive side axle end off(don't lose wee spacer). Unscrew plate, tap axle, axle and freehub body comes out. 15 5/32 bearing balls under each side. In keeper/cage- replace those. Check cones, one each side, one on axle. If not pitted, clean. Spin FH body..if smooth, do nothing, if gritty, easy to change cart hearings in there.

Clean, grease, make sure seals above bearings in channel, make sure bearings in cage face cones..reassemble.

Email with questions
Cp51errc@gmail.cm

Peter

[auto_rock]

Peter

Appreciate the pro advice. You do, in fact, make it sound easy. I'll let you know if I have questions.

If the cones are pitted, replace the cones? Should I check the cups as well?

John

[auto_rock]

Sheldon says "replace with extreme prejudice". Here's hoping my cups aren't pitted. I like these hubs but they 'aint cheap!

John

[Look585]

I have overhauled lots of OS Campy hubs.

In order of likely-hood:

1) 5/32 loose ball bearings (always)
2) Outer FHB bearing (sometimes)
3) Pitted cone (occasionally)
4a) Inner FHB bearing (very rarely)
4b) Pitted cup (very rarely)

Tools needed for 1-3 are 2.5mm and 2x5mm allen keys, 17mm spanner.

Only cup replacement needs any specialized tooling; however, the inner FHB is tough. (https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/campy-freehub-body-trick-36581.html)

[Ralph]

I have two sets of these wheels. Before last over haul on one of them, got to hearing a strange sound...like a pop. Took hub apart and the spring was broken (these hubs have one spring that goes around all the pawls....not individual springs for each pawl), so maybe only one or two pawls were working. Ordered some springs and replaced the spring on both sets. Fixed popping sound. Replacement springs seem a tad bigger in diameter and maybe stiffer than original. Ratchet sound louder also after over haul (with lots of light grease....never gets cold here). Works fine though.

[oldpotatoe]

Peter

Appreciate the pro advice. You do, in fact, make it sound easy. I'll let you know if I have questions.

If the cones are pitted, replace the cones? Should I check the cups as well?

John

Cups are probably fine even if cones pitted. I have cones, btw.