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View Full Version : SOLVED: Alloy cable housing stuck in Ti stops...


Clean39T
06-26-2017, 11:43 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170627/03a442ff45cb0fbf8dbcddbcc1fe2b85.jpg

Any ideas? They don't want to budge, and I don't want to muscle them. Thankfully it's only the brake cable stops..

pdmtong
06-26-2017, 11:45 PM
sell the frame with a $5 discount and let the new buyer deal with it

or

needle nose and twist out

rustychisel
06-26-2017, 11:47 PM
A little love tap with a thin shank screwdriver from the top.

CiclistiCliff
06-27-2017, 01:56 AM
Penetrating oil and tap tap taparoo

oldpotatoe
06-27-2017, 07:56 AM
Penetrating oil and tap tap taparoo

Yup, and grease on the next ones in there and use brass ferrules..don't corrode like that..Wheels Man has them as do I.

sales guy
06-27-2017, 08:04 AM
Some lube and a #2 Phillips but sideways. Not head one. It'll split it if it's head on. Use the blunt side and tap it. It'll come out.

Clean39T
06-27-2017, 08:23 AM
Yup, and grease on the next ones in there and use brass ferrules..don't corrode like that..Wheels Man has them as do I.


Whoever built this Moots used basically zero grease or anti-seize, and the owner who lived in Michigan seemed to sweat a lot without ever wiping down his bike. Thankfully Ti is pretty hard to damage, so I mostly have it all cleaned - these are the last bits.

Here's a shot from under the lower cable guide - and that's after the first wipe down - the bolt was pretty much disintegrate with rust:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170627/1f9c6d8a996d4bd214f3d3d4b37da89b.jpg

AngryScientist
06-27-2017, 08:26 AM
ha. i could never understand why on earth anyone would use a steel bolt at the lowest part of the bike, which is sure to get wet and road salt, silt etc. a stainless bolt there would be pennies more and last forever. silliness.

ultraman6970
06-27-2017, 08:31 AM
The answer is easy, some guy that had the money to buy it and did not care about as long the bike worked. A lot of those around :p

Even if you put steel bolts, grease helps a lot.

sales guy
06-27-2017, 08:33 AM
Every bike that leaves me has stainless bolts on it. Especially for things like BB guide bolt and bottle cage bolts.

chiasticon
06-27-2017, 08:59 AM
while you're at it and you've got it disrobed like that, get out the drill and put a hole in that BB shell for drainage.

NHAero
06-27-2017, 09:04 AM
I'd start with Kroil penetrating oil, then as others have said, try to knock it out. Failing that, I might slit it through the slit in the stop, and try to collapse it inward.

Clean39T
06-27-2017, 12:05 PM
The answer is easy, some guy that had the money to buy it and did not care about as long the bike worked. A lot of those around :p



Even if you put steel bolts, grease helps a lot.


And some shop, a Moots dealer no less, sold it to him that way, and didn't do anything to correct it when brought in for at least a couple check-ups - the DA9K group and wheels were added in late 2015 and it was ridden maybe 1,500mi before getting parked last Fall...

ultraman6970
06-27-2017, 12:36 PM
Well is not work of the shop to clean costumer's sweat :D

cadence90
06-27-2017, 02:54 PM
Well is not work of the shop to clean costumer's sweat :D

100% correct.
That work is not done at a bike shop, but rather at a sweat shop. :banana::(

Clean39T
06-27-2017, 03:10 PM
100% correct.

That work is not done at a bike shop, but rather at a sweat shop. :banana::(


I cleaned plenty of sweat and sticky sports-drink off bikes back in the day...but yeah, that isn't the shop's fault per se...

CaptStash
06-27-2017, 06:23 PM
Lube schmoob. It's titanium! Grab a screwdriver and mallet then wail away. That aluminum has no chance. Smack it out of there and move on with your build.

CaptStash (I love my hammer)....

Peter P.
06-28-2017, 05:13 AM
while you're at it and you've got it disrobed like that, get out the drill and put a hole in that BB shell for drainage.

That trick is only necessary for steel frames, where pooling water can cause rust. Titanium is immune to the effects of water.

The reason the ferrules got stuck in the frame is titanium is highly reactive with most other metals, particularly aluminum and steel. Brass, or nickel plated ferrules would help but might not eliminate the problem.

Penetrant oils such as Kroil, WD-40, etc., would help. Freeze sprays, ammonia, and Coca Cola are also good. Repeated application, long soak times, and patience are what it takes.

Clean39T
06-28-2017, 09:59 AM
That trick is only necessary for steel frames, where pooling water can cause rust. Titanium is immune to the effects of water.

The reason the ferrules got stuck in the frame is titanium is highly reactive with most other metals, particularly aluminum and steel. Brass, or nickel plated ferrules would help but might not eliminate the problem.

Penetrant oils such as Kroil, WD-40, etc., would help. Freeze sprays, ammonia, and Coca Cola are also good. Repeated application, long soak times, and patience are what it takes.

Thanks for the ideas. I ended up going the mallet/screwdriver method. Worked fine on the front one. The rear however took all that, plus a mallet and brad nail to coerce the metal into folding up into a tight little ball that eventually came out. And I did it without damaging the Ti or leaving marks. Would you recommend some Coke on a cotton swab to wipe out the remnants of the alloy to Ti bondage situation? There's just a bit of dust and discoloration still to get out of there..

Clancy
06-28-2017, 10:16 AM
Well is not work of the shop to clean costumer's sweat :D

Somewhat disagree. Although we don't clean customers' bikes per say we do give them a good wipe down. More importantly, we always put a touch of Tri-Flow on the nipples/spokes, cable stops, etc. Takes seconds and helps prevent this type of incident. Not as good as stripping the bike and greasing, but still pretty helpful and an important part of a standard tune.

oldpotatoe
06-28-2017, 04:11 PM
That trick is only necessary for steel frames, where pooling water can cause rust. Titanium is immune to the effects of water.

The reason the ferrules got stuck in the frame is titanium is highly reactive with most other metals, particularly aluminum and steel. Brass, or nickel plated ferrules would help but might not eliminate the problem.

Penetrant oils such as Kroil, WD-40, etc., would help. Freeze sprays, ammonia, and Coca Cola are also good. Repeated application, long soak times, and patience are what it takes.

The frame won't rust or corrode but the BB sure will. Plumb Ti frames as well.

sales guy
06-28-2017, 04:24 PM
Somewhat disagree. Although we don't clean customers' bikes per say we do give them a good wipe down. More importantly, we always put a touch of Tri-Flow on the nipples/spokes, cable stops, etc. Takes seconds and helps prevent this type of incident. Not as good as stripping the bike and greasing, but still pretty helpful and an important part of a standard tune.


That is everything right there. It shows customers you care about their bike. It's something I do and have done for ages. Especially on TT/Tri bikes. They sweat like mad and then the power fluid, YUCK! Little things like that, super important and mean a ton.

Well done for that sir!

Ronsonic
06-28-2017, 10:15 PM
The frame won't rust or corrode but the BB sure will. Plumb Ti frames as well.

I've lost a bottom bracket that way. A lot of sand down here and silt will go in with the water.