anyone used a roadlink for a rear derailleur

[cnighbor1]

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink
looks interesting to me
The RoadLink™ derailleur hanger extension is a unique patent-pending device that offsets the position of your road derailleur to make it possible to run a wide-range mountain bike style cassette. It is an ideal solution for riders looking to convert their road, gravel, cyclocross, or commuter drivetrain bike to attain the simplicity and reduced weight of a single front chainring but without giving up the gear range of a double. It is also great for riders with double chainring bikes that want lower gearing for those ultra steep climbs. It does not compromise the shifting in the smaller cogs of the cassette but yet it enables the derailleur to work with as large as a 40T cassette.

Easily installed in less than 5 minutes by any home mechanic! For more technical details on the RoadLink™, checkout the RoadLink Tech Page.

The RoadLink™ is optimized for use with ten or eleven-speed 11-36t and 11-40t cassettes and works great with Wolf Tooth’s 40-tooth GC cassette extenders and Drop-Stop chainrings. The RoadLink™ RD adaper installs in minutes, is optimized around Shimano ten- or eleven-speed road derailleurs and shifters, but works well with SRAM and Campy too. It can be used with single or double chainrings. Here is a list of recommended applications:
•Single Chainring:
•Road
•Cyclocross
•Commuting
•Drop-bar mountain
•Double Chainring:
•Road
•Touring
•Drop-bar mountain

Compatibility:
•10s Cassette Compatibility:
•11-32: Not Required (GS medium cage rear derailleur works)
•11-34: Single or Double Chainring
•11-36: Single or Double Chainring (front rings can be no more than 14 teeth different e.g. 48-34)
•11-40: Single or Double Chainring (front rings can be no more than 10 teeth different e.g. 46-36)
•11-42: Not Supported
•11s Cassette Compatibility:
•11-32: Not Required (GS medium cage rear derailleur works)
•11-36: Single or Double Chainring (front rings can be no more than 14 teeth different e.g. 48-34)
•11-40: Single or Double Chainring (front rings can be no more than 10 teeth different e.g. 46-36)
•11-42: Not Supported
•10-42: Not Supported
•Double chainrings are only supported with GS (medium cage) rear derailleurs.
•The RoadLink™ mounts only to standard derailleur hangers.

•The RoadLink™ is optimized for the 10 and 11 speed Shimano road derailleur geometry. It also works very well with 9 speed road groups, all SRAM groups, and Campy derailleurs! One note is that with Campy it works best with cassettes up to 11-36.

• SRAMs Exact Actuation road shifters (10s and 11s) are interchangeable with their Exact Actuation mountain derailleurs- which can easily handle a 36 or 40 (and, for one-by, are available with a clutch)- and the CX1 will go even bigger with a single ring. If you already have SRAM, they also make nice front brake-only levers that match their rear shifters too.
• Triple chainrings are not supported (medium cage rear derailleurs cannot accommodate that big of a range).
• Direct Mount-native frames are not supported.
•Due to the lack of a clutch mechanism on Shimano road derailleurs, secondary chain retention (front derailleur or chain device) may be needed, especially for rough or off-road use.
•Due to variations in derailleur hanger geometry, chainstay length, chainring size, B-screw adjustment, and suspension configuration, individual results will vary.
•This 7.9mm max dimension is controlled by the Shimano spec, but a few derailleur hangers don't meet the spec. You can file a bit of the bottom "tang" of those derailleur hangers to install the RoadLink™.

[fa63]

Yes, I use it to run a 11-40 cassette on one of my bikes. Lots of discussions on it on this forum as well.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170627/d8aa50fca02a1547264bba9f97573b1e.jpg

[weaponsgrade]

Yes, I'm using one to run an 11-42 cassette with 1x.

[eddief]

smooth shifting up to 36 cog with 50/34 crank. 40 cog was a little dicey on big big and small small combo.

need bigger than 36, then move to Woolftooth Tanpan and mountain rear derailleur. Supposed to be good to at least 42 teeth.

[frank_h]

Another data point: yes, and it's fantastic!

1x setup with 36 in back.

[Mark McM]

How is shifting between the smallest sprockets with the Road Link? It looks like there would be a mighty big chain gap (distance between sprocket and the jockey wheel) in the smaller sprockets.

[ColonelJLloyd]

How is shifting between the smallest sprockets with the Road Link? It looks like there would be a mighty big chain gap (distance between sprocket and the jockey wheel) in the smaller sprockets.

I've asked this several times. It's always been followed by crickets.

[NHAero]

My sense on this is that what makes more sense is a MTB RD (I'm using a Shadow RD-M772) that came out just before the pull ratio changed and MTB and road pulls weren't compatible. By fooling a bit with the B screw I'm using the M772 with a 10 speed road shifter on an 11-40 Sunrace cassette, and no Roadlink or Tanpan.

[ColonelJLloyd]

A MTB RD with a clutch makes more sense for 11-42 cassettes.

[fa63]

How is shifting between the smallest sprockets with the Road Link? It looks like there would be a mighty big chain gap (distance between sprocket and the jockey wheel) in the smaller sprockets.

I can shift across all the gears just fine.

[bobswire]

I use one on an older frame with tight geo that allows me to use 28c tires that I otherwise would have to mount without air to clear r. derailleur/seatpost. I call the bike my "city slicker " I use for navigating the streets for errands and such. I purchased it the first day they were advertised and sold knowing it was a god send.

http://i68.tinypic.com/2v1sr9w.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/2ewmcup.jpg

[AngryScientist]

A MTB RD with a clutch makes more sense for 11-42 cassettes.

campagnolo doesnt make MTB RD's :eek:

i've posted before, but i'm using a roadlink with Potenza mid cage RD and an 11-40 cassette. 38t front ring. works great.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O6mNKTDAiJs/WM759ZTQ3YI/AAAAAAAACvY/wc5yoaCTBuQXrdI4vtOq9nC7Dx64Fai4ACLcB/s1140/imshi.JPG

[ColonelJLloyd]

campagnolo doesnt make MTB RD's :eek:

There's a ShiftMate for that unless you're married to the brand name. But if what you're doing is working for you no need to look elsewhere.

For 1x drivetrains that see rough terrain the chain drop and chain slap that can occur is best mitigated with a clutch design. Best; not only.

[eddief]

lots of variables, but with 11 speed Ultegra GS derailleur, compact 2 ring crankset, and 11-36 cassette, the shifting was perfect in all combos. some say you can go even bigger in back and maintain smooth shifting, but I found it dicey (gotta watch out for cross chaining at the extremes) with 40 cassette and Wolftooth does not recommend it.

I've asked this several times. It's always been followed by crickets.

[GScot]

Using a TanPan, GoatLink and XT derailleur with an 11-46 and 36 tooth single on one bike, shifting is excellent. RoadLink with 11-40 Ultegra GS derailleur and 34-44 double on another. It also shifts just fine. A little more noise on shifts with the RoadLink bike and more noise plus more effort on the XT clutch derailleur bike. They do settle into gear and run as silent as any drive train after shifting.

[bpiecuch]

Okay, I have to ask.

What roads are you riding where you need a 1:1 or even greater than 1:1 gear ratio? I almost understand this ratio on a Mountain Bike, loaded touring, or a Hill Climb specific bike. But none of the bike pictures in this thread support those disciplines.

Any help? Or am I just behind the times with my 2x setup with standard cranks riding on paved roads...

[guido]

I use an Ultegra 6800 GS rear derailleur with an 11-36 cassette without a roadlink. Works just dandy on the 3 different bikes i have it on. Shifts like butter with no issues whatsoever...

I tried the Taipan on one bike and abandoned it quite quickly. Very cranky to set up. This was the first release, i understand they have reved it at least once... YMMV.

[eddief]

some need em / want em, some don't.

[guido]

Okay, I have to ask.

What roads are you riding where you need a 1:1 or even greater than 1:1 gear ratio?

For me personally, there are lots of roads in western MA/NH/VT that I'm really happy to have a 30-36 (<1:1) ratio. Something about being 195 lbs and older probably comes into play too...

[fishwhisperer]

All depends on the roads. The fire road network in Northern California has some pretty steep climbs, and you can't avoid them. Having a bail out gear (I run a 38-42 in a 1x configuration) allows me to go much further distances than I would otherwise be able to.

[GScot]

Okay, I have to ask.

What roads are you riding where you need a 1:1 or even greater than 1:1 gear ratio? I almost understand this ratio on a Mountain Bike, loaded touring, or a Hill Climb specific bike. But none of the bike pictures in this thread support those disciplines.

Any help? Or am I just behind the times with my 2x setup with standard cranks riding on paved roads...

It's gravel bike set up for us. The 11-40 with 34-44 chainrings is on my Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross and the 11-46 with single 36 or 38 ring is for my wife's Space Horse. We have hill after hill in MO around St Louis and some MTB trails that perfectly rideable with these set ups. Gearing this low is not mandatory for all but I like it and my wife has knee problems that have made her a high cadence rider so really low gears help out.

[dave thompson]

Okay, I have to ask.

What roads are you riding where you need a 1:1 or even greater than 1:1 gear ratio? I almost understand this ratio on a Mountain Bike, loaded touring, or a Hill Climb specific bike. But none of the bike pictures in this thread support those disciplines.

Any help? Or am I just behind the times with my 2x setup with standard cranks riding on paved roads...

You're young, I'm not. I live in eastern Washington hard against lots of miles of hills and mountains. While my gearing's not 1:1, it's damn close at 34/32 and makes *just* riding, rather than pushing hard all the time, a lot more pleasant.

[AngryScientist]

Okay, I have to ask.

What roads are you riding where you need a 1:1 or even greater than 1:1 gear ratio? I almost understand this ratio on a Mountain Bike, loaded touring, or a Hill Climb specific bike. But none of the bike pictures in this thread support those disciplines.

Any help? Or am I just behind the times with my 2x setup with standard cranks riding on paved roads...

I see you are in Rhode Island. Personally speaking, I can say without hesitation that there are plenty places in New England that I am happy to have an extended range gearset. even if my fitness and power were up to the task of tackling some steep stuff with standard gearing, the possibility of sitting in and spinning a little more as opposed to high power grinding is a nice option - especially if it's going to be a long day in the saddle.

[type2sam]

I have one. 50/34 chainrings in front with an 11-40 cassette out back. Shifting is a bit wonky through the middle of the cassette, but I attribute that more to my lack of fine tuning and an aged Deore rear derailleur with a worn pivot.

I've been having too much fun taking this bike from road to single-track and back to refine things.

[Mark McM]

Okay, I have to ask.

What roads are you riding where you need a 1:1 or even greater than 1:1 gear ratio? I almost understand this ratio on a Mountain Bike, loaded touring, or a Hill Climb specific bike. But none of the bike pictures in this thread support those disciplines.

Any help? Or am I just behind the times with my 2x setup with standard cranks riding on paved roads...

Different roads, different riders, different rides.

The highest paved road in Rhode Island (Jerimoth Hill in Foster) is only 800 feet above sea level, with a base elevation of about 600 feet. The longest continuous climb in Rhode Island only rises about 300 - 400 feet at best. Most riders can grunt over hills like these without low gearing, even if they are steep.

Other parts of the country are different, and have longer, steeper, and higher hills (and mountains).

[KidWok]

You're young, I'm not. I live in eastern Washington hard against lots of miles of hills and mountains. While my gearing's not 1:1, it's damn close at 34/32 and makes *just* riding, rather than pushing hard all the time, a lot more pleasant.

Hell...who says you have to be young? Have been using 34x32 on a road and gravel bikes for years with 7800 + XT rear derailleur. Using 34x36 on commuting/touring/trailer towing bike for longer than that with a long-cage RD. I'm definitely not old, stay pretty fit year round, and live in a hilly area. I lead a weekly hill climb workout and we have a 21% bonus hill on tonight's route...fun times!

Enough with critical questioning of people who want lower gearing already...it's like the spacer police found something else to look down upon. Lame.

Tai

[bpiecuch]

Thank you for all the replies. I understand that Rhode Island may not have the tallest hills or steepest pitches. I've ridden them all, and can agree that they are not impressive climbs.

But, I do ride around other parts of New England which do have some pretty legitimate long climbs and steep pitches. For these, I've swapped to a compact crank for hill climbs (Burke Mountain) and hilly centuries (Kanc, VT Gaps) but even that is just a 34 front to 27 or 28 rear. Riders that do the Mt Washington Hill Climb recommend a 1:1 ratio, with a bail-out of 1.2:1. However, that's a 7+ mile climb that averages 12%.

Hence, my questioning specifically about the 1:1 or >1:1 ratio. If I do my math right, those ratios provide a rolling speed of 3-4 mph. Sorry, that's just not the style of riding I'm used to, either pace or terrain. Please excuse my ignorance, and please resume discussions about the Roadlink.

[Mark McM]

But, I do ride around other parts of New England which do have some pretty legitimate long climbs and steep pitches. For these, I've swapped to a compact crank for hill climbs (Burke Mountain) and hilly centuries (Kanc, VT Gaps) but even that is just a 34 front to 27 or 28 rear. Riders that do the Mt Washington Hill Climb recommend a 1:1 ratio, with a bail-out of 1.2:1. However, that's a 7+ mile climb that averages 12%.

I've also ridden all over New England, (NH, VT, etc.) and for the most part don't use a 1:1 ratio or lower except for the 12% climbs (Mt. Washington, Mt. Ascutney, etc.). But here in New England, there's a big advantage - for the most part, everything is below 5,000 ft above sea level, where there's oxygen. In some parts of the country, the base elevations are so high you're already in thin air before you start climbing.

[fa63]

I recently did Cherahola Challenge in Tennessee, using a compact crank and 11-36 cassette. While climbing Cherahola Skyway, it was nice to have the 36t sprocket as a bail-out gear; I even used it a few times when the gradients got into mid-teens. It was also amusing to watch other people grinding their way up the mountain while I was able to maintain a comfortable cadence.

[dem]

I have a 30-42 low gear (XTR+Tanpan). Caterpillars make annoying fire roads.

For my road only bike, I also use the Roadlink for a 34-36 combination, which is generally low enough for anything that is designed as an automobile road. :)

Off-road, even with the 30-42, I still end up walking some sections when it gets sustained over 30% grade.

I ran into this segment this weekend and walked part of it, despite some of it being paved! (I assume 4x4s can't even make it up if it was unpaved entirely.)

https://www.strava.com/segments/15244397

[bobswire]

Hell...who says you have to be young? Have been using 34x32 on a road and gravel bikes for years with 7800 + XT rear derailleur. Using 34x36 on commuting/touring/trailer towing bike for longer than that with a long-cage RD. I'm definitely not old, stay pretty fit year round, and live in a hilly area. I lead a weekly hill climb workout and we have a 21% bonus hill on tonight's route...fun times!

Enough with critical questioning of people who want lower gearing already...it's like the spacer police found something else to look down upon. Lame.

Tai

This! Though I'm 72, I can still out climb most whippersnappers (http://www.dictionary.com/browse/whippersnapper). :)

[NHAero]

This thread detour to why someone needs a 1:1 or less gear brings me back 45 years to when I got my custom Bob Jackson at almost 19 years old. My friend and I loaded our bikes up with camping gear and went on a three day trip from Boston and back. First day up we rode into the White Mountains and over the Kancamagus Pass - 150 miles, loaded. I'd never been there, but my buddy warned me, so I "saved" my lowest gear for when we hit the steep part (this was a west-to-east crossing). All of a sudden there was the pass, and I hadn't shifted yet into low - had ridden up in a 34-20 (low was 34-24, bikes used to have 5 speed freewheels :-)

Three years later I rode my fixed gear aluminum bike (http://museum.mit.edu/nom150/entries/1128) in the Mt. Washington Hillclimb and calculated the gear I should use based on watts needed for a 75 minute ride. I geared it 1:1, and never needed to stand on the pedals, riding 73:30.

Now the bike I'd take touring in NH has a triple with a 24-30 low gear, 0.8:1. That's the low gear I had for D2R2 and was glad of it! People age and get injured, but still love to ride as much as when they were young and stronger.

[ninjaman]

I just ordered one of these babies this am, definitely worth <$5 to test out!:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/371961167431


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ColonelJLloyd]

I just ordered one of these babies this am, definitely worth <$5 to test out!:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/371961167431

The Rock Bros. of the RoadLink.

[Rpoole8537]

How many chain links would need to be added in order to run the Roadlink? Or, does one just avoid running big ring to big cassette? (which should always be avoided on any setup)