SRAM HRD bleed issue

[DavidC]

I'm having an issue with bleeding a Force 22 rear brake. It seems like there might still be air in the line, but I've bled so many times and always seem to get all the air out, it really doesn't seem like that's the case.

Issue: when squeezing lever, it darn-near hits the handlebar when engaged. So needless to say a hard brake under load would bottom out the lever when riding.

Compounding this, I just warrantied the lever for an unrelated issue, and got a brand new lever/caliper, which I was forced to re-bleed due to internal routing. The issue remains, which means it's obviously my fault!

I've made absolute sure the caliper and all the brake line is below the lever when bleeding, so air can go up and not be trapped in line. I followed protocol exactly per SRAM's guidelines. I use SRAM's bleed kit.

I don't get it! Any suggestions?? Thanks

[ColonelJLloyd]

Subscribing. You mean HydroR?

I've bled once on my rear and I'm not satisfied. I could stand to remove some hose from the front so I plan to do that and bleed both brakes again. I feel like maybe my pistons/pads don't open up as much as they should.

[TEMPLE]

I'm having an issue with bleeding a Force 22 rear brake. It seems like there might still be air in the line, but I've bled so many times and always seem to get all the air out, it really doesn't seem like that's the case.

Issue: when squeezing lever, it darn-near hits the handlebar when engaged. So needless to say a hard brake under load would bottom out the lever when riding.

Compounding this, I just warrantied the lever for an unrelated issue, and got a brand new lever/caliper, which I was forced to re-bleed due to internal routing. The issue remains, which means it's obviously my fault!

I've made absolute sure the caliper and all the brake line is below the lever when bleeding, so air can go up and not be trapped in line. I followed protocol exactly per SRAM's guidelines. I use SRAM's bleed kit.

I don't get it! Any suggestions?? Thanks

I'm no expert on this by any stretch, but when I bleed my mountain bike brakes (Shimano XT), I get quite a few bubbles out of the system by pulling the levers a few times with the bleed reservoir in place (and blocks in the callipers). I am not sure if this is a step in SRAM's documentation. Also, I read somewhere that air can get trapped in the system unless you remove and rotate the calliper so the bleed port is pointing straight up so the air can escape. You could also try switching bleed directions? I put the syringe on the calliper and the reservoir on the master cylinder on the levers, i.e., bottom to top or back bleeding.

I've about hit the limits of my brake bleed knowledge, but I hope that helps!

TEMPLE

[DavidC]

Subscribing. You mean HydroR?


Well SRAM now uses HRD (hydraulic road disc) as a catch-all. So HRD does apply. But so does HydroR, the name for all the hydraulics besides Ref. HydroHC, the other system under HRD, is Red only (I think eTap only).

[DavidC]

I'm no expert on this by any stretch, but when I bleed my mountain bike brakes (Shimano XT), I get quite a few bubbles out of the system by pulling the levers a few times with the bleed reservoir in place (and blocks in the callipers). I am not sure if this is a step in SRAM's documentation. Also, I read somewhere that air can get trapped in the system unless you remove and rotate the calliper so the bleed port is pointing straight up so the air can escape. You could also try switching bleed directions? I put the syringe on the calliper and the reservoir on the master cylinder on the levers, i.e., bottom to top or back bleeding.



I've about hit the limits of my brake bleed knowledge, but I hope that helps!



TEMPLE



Thanks, I actually have XT brakes on my MTB, and do fine bleeding those. They do indeed use quite different bleed methods. But your 2 suggestions are still good, I'll give them a shot. (1) Remove and rotate the caliper—you shouldn't have to do this, but it can only help. Good suggestion. I guess I'll have to overcome my laziness and do this ;) (2) Switching bleed directions—haven't ever tried this, but worth it I suppose. Once I seemingly get all air out normal way, I guess bleeding backwards is worth a shot, see if any extra air comes out...

[peanutgallery]

Shimano brakes are easy to bleed because you can "burp" them at the lever to get the last little bit of air out of the line, so the process is not so precise. This is something you can't really do with SRAM. I will recommend that you follow the official bleed instructions precisely as they are very specific at each step. Unfortunately I haven't found many short cuts. At the bitter end, rubber band the lever at the bar for a few hours and repeat the last step or so of the process to coax the last bubbles out from the lever. No need to open the valve at the caliper, just re-work the last steps at the lever. Takes patience but it is effective

If this tip seems like another language, find a local wrench worth his salt and give him the $25 to do it for you.

PS: Be careful not to contaminate the pads or the rotor

PPS: Keep in mind that any disc system that utilizes DOT fluid like SRAM will attract water and corrode the system over time and corrode the system from the inside out. Its the price of light weight. If you are having issues with a Juicy or Elixir brake, just get a new one as its cheaper basically. I have a set of Guides on a few bikes currently and so far so good. Much improved

[Spoked_matt]

I'm having an issue with bleeding a Force 22 rear brake. It seems like there might still be air in the line, but I've bled so many times and always seem to get all the air out, it really doesn't seem like that's the case.

Issue: when squeezing lever, it darn-near hits the handlebar when engaged. So needless to say a hard brake under load would bottom out the lever when riding.

Compounding this, I just warrantied the lever for an unrelated issue, and got a brand new lever/caliper, which I was forced to re-bleed due to internal routing. The issue remains, which means it's obviously my fault!

I've made absolute sure the caliper and all the brake line is below the lever when bleeding, so air can go up and not be trapped in line. I followed protocol exactly per SRAM's guidelines. I use SRAM's bleed kit.

I don't get it! Any suggestions?? Thanks



Sometimes you have do it a handful of times.


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