Anyone with some experience cutting stainless steel tubes?

[recarcar]

I picked up a stainless steel frame with a long headtube. Anyone have any experience hand cutting stainless steel? I would take it to a frame builder but I want to try it out for fun and then take it to LBS to get it faced and reamed.

[Black Dog]

What exactly are you trying to cut on the frame?

[sales guy]

is it the top or bottom of the headtube? cause if it's the bottom, it will change the headtube angle. the top, no issues there.

depending on how much you need to remove, you might just have a shop face it. stainless is hard. it will kill tools if you aren't careful. if you are going to actually cut it, a carbide saw blade and a cutting guide.

[Peter P.]

A hacksaw will work fine on stainless steel. Just use a new, 32tpi. blade.

To ensure a square cut, if there's enough headtube, secure a hose clamp on either side of the cut line as a guide. If there's only enough headtube for one hose clamp, run with what you got.

You might want to score the line first with a lot of backstrokes until a notch forms, or use a file to start a notch. That will keep the saw blade from drifting.

Perhaps you can make a practice cut by taking off a small slice first. It will help you gain confidence.

[recarcar]

Thanks yall! I'm trying to cut some length off the top of the headtube. It extends about 3 inches above the top tube, so it has plenty to lop off. Thanks, Peter P.! I was thinking of using a hacksaw but was unsure what blade to use.

Because it has so much to work with I will definitely take a test run at it before cutting is permanently. I keep hearing different info though on how hard it is to cut stainless so I was wondering if people here had any issues with it totally obliterating their tools.

[recarcar]

Also, it's Columbus XCr. Not sure if that makes any easier/harder to work with vs. other types if stainless?

[pbarry]

Its not Kryptonite. ;) Carefully mark the cutting area. Use adequate force: Too little and the blade will skip over the tube and mar it. Too much at a bad angle will result in an uneven cut. Tension the hacksaw well. Use a digital caliper when you finish to find the high spots, then file them down. All will be good.

[recarcar]

Its not Kryptonite. ;) Carefully mark the cutting area. Use adequate force: Too little and the blade will skip over the tube and mar it. Too much at a bad angle will result in an uneven cut. Tension the hacksaw well. Use a digital caliper when you finish to find the high spots, then file them down. All will be good.

Thanks! :beer:

Super useful information and y'all are crazy quick with the advice. Thanks! I'll go at it soon and see how it turns out.

[unterhausen]

we need a picture. Three inches?

[recarcar]

lol. I'll post one soon.

[Bentley]

So, my experience cutting stainless is that its "tough" to cut, a hacksaw will likely result in a poor cut. Use a power miter box with a "friction" blade and take your time.

Also, if you are going to weld the tube in I believe the tube will need to be "notched" to join to the head tube and seat tube, but I could be mistaken.

Good Luck

Ray

[unterhausen]

I have never cut XCR. I have some stainless to make rack tabs with, and it's surprisingly difficult to cut. I think it's 316. XCR and similar are high strength stainless, and I would expect them to be hard to cut. I would want to use a guide, and protect the part that will remain with the bike because the blade will want to skate. There are some fork steerer cutting guides that will probably fit. The Park SG-7.2, for example. If it is 1 1/4", then the Spin Doctor/X tools/other re-branded one will fit.

You might want to try a dremel with a reinforced cutoff wheel. McMaster Carr and better hobby shops have them. Keep the wheel moving, sitting in one place wears out the wheel quickly

[Tony]

A quality 32tpi. blade will cut right through it, no problem.

[pdmtong]

Is it a peg respo?

[recarcar]

Thanks all again for the advice! Here is the picture I promised

[recarcar]

Casey from Mars Cycles helped out. This thing would have been a pain to do by myself and Casey mentioned that the reaming and facing was tough. Glad I didn't attempt it! It came out great and fits nicely now!

[recarcar]

Is it a peg respo?

It's an early 2000's Bill Holland Stainless.

[kppolich]

Looks great, that was a tall head tube!

[recarcar]

Looks great, that was a tall head tube!

Thanks! It's the tallest head tube I've seen. The previous owner wanted to be completely upright. I thought the frame was cool enough to try to put some work into it.

[macaroon]

So you've replaced the headtube with a load of stem spacers?!?!

[kppolich]

Before after help

http://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697941145&stc=1&d=1497035328
http://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697941146&stc=1&d=1497035526

[Peter P.]

So how did the cutting go?

What; no "in process" pics?!

[ColonelJLloyd]

So you've replaced the headtube with a load of stem spacers?!?!

+1 This is so weird.

What is going on with the left shifter?

[recarcar]

+1 This is so weird.

What is going on with the left shifter?

Nah. Not even an inch of spacers in total. Using it as a touring setup so not slamming any stems here :banana:

Just have some bar end shifters, again touring setup.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Just have some bar end shifters, again touring setup.

Upside down?

[recarcar]

Upside down?

Yup. Much more comfortable for me that way.

[pbarry]

Nicely done! :beer: