Torque Wrench... how necessary is it?

[terrytnt]

For those of us with solid carbon or carbon/Ti frames, how necessary is using a torque wrench these days? My sense is it's more important than bikes of yesterday... like my old Vitus.

With my new Carbon/Ti frame and the moderate amount of cleaning/ tweaking and rebuilding I do, what's everyone's POV on torque wrenches? Should I invest in one?

thanks,

[sspielman]

I like to have things as tight as possible without ruining them...a torque wrench is a great way to achieve this because you just tighten it up until the wrench kicks out. I think that a torque wrench is especially important for the stem clamp bolts with a carbon steerer and/or bars...the seatpost binder bolt with a carbon seatpost, and the front derailleur (clamp-on) bolt on a carbon frame. Also, if you are going to the trouble of using a torque wrench, you should make sure that the securing bolts are have a little grease on the threads and bolthead so that you are actually measuring the bolt tightness and not thread friction...

[CNY rider]

I think it's worth your time and money. I got one about a year ago; I think I paid maybe $60 for a good quality Craftsman wrench. I was doing my torquing by hand before and while I don't think I was wildly inaccurate I feel much more secure now using the wrench.

I'll agree with the above poster about the critical points to use one. I definitely want my bars as tight as they can be in the stem, without damaging them. The wrench makes that very easy to do. You just tighten until the wrench releases, and you know it's done right.

[Endless Goods]

I cracked the clear coat on my carbon seatpost by using a torque wrench to tighten per Serotta's spec.

Perhaps the torque spec is outdated...regardless there is now an Ultegra post on the bike which is much better than the FSA it replaced.

For stem/handlebars, the torque wrench is great. Be careful in more delicate areas.

[terrytnt]

Thanks guys... any tips are which model to purchase, Park/ Pedro/ Other? There seems to be a wide variance is price... $35 - park to $119 or more with Pedro. Some just use torque gauge others have clicking ratchet mechanism...

thoughts?

[Dekonick]

Sears :)

[gone]

I would say that it's not only necessary but critical for carbon frames. Although manufacturers reinforce the areas that they know are going to be clamped e.g., seatpost, front derailleur (for clamp on), etc., in my experience the "calibrated idiot" method of doing it by feel is exactly that. Most people "don't want it to come loose" and really crank the hell out of the bolts.

If you're going to spend big bucks for a carbon frame, a relatively small investment.

[72gmc]

Sears :)

second that. i use an old-fashioned beam wrench rather than digital, and it's hard to go wrong with craftsman tools. just don't drop a beam wrench... and it comes with ft/lb and newton-meter scales so you may occasionally need to convert for in/lb specs.

my frame is steel, and my components are aluminum. fwiw.

[terrytnt]

okay guys... you sold me. I'll pick up a torque wrench....

One final thought... is there a source you use for torque specs for Campy Record parts?

[Grant McLean]

One final thought... is there a source you use for torque specs for Campy Record parts?

http://www.campagnolo.com/techinfo.php?did=f

g

[Needs Help]

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=88

Don't forget to divide the number given in in/lb by 12 to get the equivalent ft/lb. There's a conversion chart at the bottom as well.

[Lincoln]

Thanks guys... any tips are which model to purchase, Park/ Pedro/ Other? There seems to be a wide variance is price... $35 - park to $119 or more with Pedro. Some just use torque gauge others have clicking ratchet mechanism...

thoughts?
I don't like the beam style ones. I much prefer the ratchet style one where you adjust the torque setting on the handle and then tighten until it "clicks." I bought a beam one first (being cheap) and then got rid of it after using a friend's ratchet style wrench. I've gotten better about buying good stuff to begin with but sometimes my heritage gets the better of me. :beer:

[72gmc]

i know you didn't mean any offense, lincoln... but i don't see a beam torque wrench as cheap, necessarily (although mine was compared to a park). frankly i like the simple mechanical nature of it. then again, i think old wood working tools are cool. and i use a push mower. and my truck is 34.

guess this explains why i like silver components rather than carbon.

[Lincoln]

i know you didn't mean any offense, lincoln... but i don't see a beam torque wrench as cheap, necessarily (although mine was compared to a park). frankly i like the simple mechanical nature of it. then again, i think old wood working tools are cool. and i use a push mower. and my truck is 34.

guess this explains why i like silver components rather than carbon.

None intended, the one I bought was cheap. I know there are also high quality beams but I still prefer the ratchet. I also generally prefer more mechanical things (I have to wind my watch most mornings) but in this case simpler was not better for me (though the digital ones have no appeal). Cheers.

[pdxmech13]

onlineconversions.com (http://www.onlineconversions.com)

[medici]

Curious. Uncle Al wrote about this in this week's RoadBikeRider.
You all have thrashed it pretty well, but here 'tis.

2. Uncle Al: Torqued o^o o^o o^o o^o o^o o^o

I'm torqued, and not only because of the continuing saga of drug use and abuse in the pro peloton. It's because I have a torque wrench -- and I know how to use it!

Never before in the history of cycling equipment has this magic gauge of tightness been so necessary. Titanium, carbon, ultra steels, feathery aluminum, magnesium and various combos are being used in components. They demand precise tightness during installation and adjustment. The only way to do it right is with a torque wrench.

Most manufacturers have websites that tell you exactly how much torque to put on every bolt. Follow the values as if your life depends on it, because it does. Think about the consequences of your overtightened stem bolts shearing while you're sprinting to the city limit sign or bashing through a bumpy downhill turn.

Consider a torque wrench an essential cycling tool. The cool thing is, you can order one through your local bike shop for delivery in just a few days. There are several models that do a great job.

---Park Tool. The tool masters make two versions: TW-1 for 0-60 inch-pounds (0-6.8 Newton meters or Nm) and TW-2 for 0-600 inch-pounds (0- 67.8 Nm). These cost $50 and $60, respectively.

---Pedro's. The Pro torque wrench measures 20-200 inch-pounds (2.3-22.6 Nm) and costs $170. You can purchase a 9-piece hex bit set for this wrench for an extra $12.

---Syntace. This one's a beauty at nearly $300. Measures 1-20 Nm (8.9-177 inch-pounds). A set of bits is available for $95.

---Snap On. If you can chase down a truck, the driver will gladly sell you a torque wrench. Mine is the TE-12A Torqometer with a super accurate dial gauge that measures 0-150 inch-pounds in increments of 2.5. It cost me over $200 when I bought it 20 years ago, so I imagine it's a bit more now.

Crankarms require so much torque (300 inch-pounds) that you probably don't need to measure it. You just need to reef on it, dude!

It's those smaller torque values (15-85 inch-pounds) that must be totally accurate. Follow the instructions that come with the wrench and figure out which bits you need for your bike. You can usually get bits at a hardware store tool department.

Parts manufactured in metric countries will list torque values as either Newton meters (Nm) or kilograms of force per centimeter (kgf-cm). Here in America, it's inch-pounds or foot-pounds. Easy to convert:

foot-pounds x 12 = inch-pounds
inch-pounds x 1.15 = kilograms of force per centimeter (kgf-cm)
inch-pounds x 0.113 = Newton meters (Nm)
kilograms of force per centimeter (kgf-cm) x 1.36 = Newton meters (Nm)
Newton meters (Nm) x 8.851 = inch-pounds

And remember our shop motto: "Grease all threaded surfaces!" I know I'm gonna catch crap for that one.

[terrytnt]

Has anyone used the Pedro Pro Torque wrench or at $115 is that overkill? Like the ratchet mechanism over the beam but Pedro's price seems a bit high.

[Dekonick]

Can't go wrong with Sears! I am telling ya!

:)

I checked many mfgr's before I bought mine. I was looking primarily at Park, but after trying out others, I determined that Sears, Snap-on, etc... - the guys who make more tools than park, sell more tools than park, and whose tools are used everyday in critical industrial applications probably make a decent torque wrench. It doesn't have to say Park to be used on a bike! I'll bet if you look in most shops the screwdrivers and hammers aren't made by Park... ;)

Why spend extra cash for a blue handle?

[terrytnt]

You made your point... a good one at that. I'll check out Craftsman tools at Sears.

[Dekonick]

Hehe - Not bashing Park by any means. For cycling specific uses it is hard to beat them. I wish I had purchased Park tools first... all my cheap bike tools have been replaced by Park over time. I do suggest other manufacturers if the tool is used elsewhere in industry. :)

[grosmerou]

a torque wrench it is necessary. You will save your frame and light parts. and more important you will avoid to have a lose bolt on your stem or on a vital part of the bike. If you have a 2 bolts stem go buy a TW.
Take a good one from Facom, ParkTool not a junk one.

Jerome

[Dave]

I use a large 1/2 inch drive, 30 year old beam type torque wrench on BB cups and the cassette lockring. Other than that, a decent sense of feel has always worked for me. I've owned 5 carbon frames and numerous carbon seatposts and handlebars. Never damaged a CF part yet.

I'm curious how those of you who rely on a torque wrench to tighten a seatpost or stem clamp bolt manage to make a small adjustment out on the road? If you can't tighten the typical M5 or M6 bolt by hand, without over doing it, your mechanical skills need honing.

[terrytnt]

Thanks Jerome, with a little research I found a great deal on a SK/Facom TW... check it out: http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.37018/TID./qx/product.htm

[Dave]

Thanks Jerome, with a little research I found a great deal on a SK/Facom TW... check it out: http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.37018/TID./qx/product.htm

A range of 25-250 ft. lbs is really not great for bicycle work. Lockrings and BBs only need 30-40. Better to get one that covers a lower range.

[Squint]

For that much, you could get a dial type torque wrench:

http://www.torqwrench.com/Products/Dials/dials.html

And avoid all the problems of clicker torque wrenches.

I use a digital torque wrench myself.



Thanks Jerome, with a little research I found a great deal on a SK/Facom TW... check it out: http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/prodid.37018/TID./qx/product.htm