OT Subaru owners, extended warranty good value?

[Clancy]

Looking at 2017 Subaru Outback. On offer is an extended warranty that would cover the car until 7 years/100K. Cost is $2,300

I'm replacing a 2007 Volvo V70 wagon with 180,000 miles. I didn't have an extended warranty and up to 100K, I also did not have any major repairs. But, the Subaru warranty extends regular service to 30,000 miles so that extra couple of services help offset the cost.

The Subaru has far more electronics and computers than my Volvo. Just one of those craps out, the extended warranty would pay for itself.

But I also have heard, electronical stuff tends to go pretty quickly.

So, any Subaru owners who bought the extended warranty and are glad they did?

Any Subaru owners who wish they had bought it?

[yarg]

I bought a 2016 outback and didn't get that warranty, simply not worth it, not on any car in my opinion.

[Ralph]

Not commenting directly on a Subaru.....but you could make the same bet they do.....that repair costs over the 100,000 miles will be less than $2300. A lot less actually. The salesman probably makes more selling the extended warranty than the vehicle itself.

if it's important to you not have any unexpected costs from this vehicle over that period of time, and you would consider the extended warranty cost as a budgetable repair cost......get the warranty. it's just insurance, usually underwritten by an insurance company. But like you said above....expensive repairs seem to always come just after warranties expire.

[Mikej]

We purchased an Outback LTD w/ eyesight and back up brakes lane watch etc. 2016 last Aug. With the amount of electronics, I felt it was needed. I have the same mentality as the OP- if one thing goes wrong - its double paid for itself. I haggled down a 7/70000 (my wife barely hits 5k miles per year) bumper to bumper for $850. I feel that is a great deal of "piece of mind" - I also got a screaming deal and 0%. The vehicle also has a lifetime powertrain as part of the dealers sale. Try to bargain with them, its all negotiable - I was told my price was the employee price. We love the car too, btw! I have also a 2" Torklift ecohitch en route for my rack -

[biker72]

Consumer Reports recommends not getting the extended warranty especially for Subaru, Toyota and Honda.

[thunderworks]

Extended warranties are statistically only a good deal for the vendor - whether it's for cars or anything else. They do clearly bail out consumers occasionally, but for the most part I think they're a waste of money.

[p nut]

'13 Outback here with now close to 60k miles. Barely 10k miles/yr. Zero issues to report. Did not opt for the warranty despite the pushy closer. Told him one of the reasons we chose Subaru is their touted reliability, so chances are, it's a waste of money. That shut him up.

I really don't see the need for the warranty. Reliability has improved across the board. I'd dare bet most modern cars will get to 100k without breaking a sweat.

[HenryA]

Keep your money. Its rarely if ever a smart move to buy extended warranties and more so with cars that are known to be extremely durable and trouble free.

SWMBO recently bought her third Subie and we never needed warranty on the first two which she drove a combined 340,000 miles.

You're gonna love that new Outback. Subaru seems to be good at continuing incremental improvements to their cars. The 2017 Outback is really a nice car.

[CDollarsign]

Just had a CPO warranty cover 5K worth of new pistons in an Audi A4... I would probably get it.

[classtimesailer]

My non Di2 09 Forester was trouble free for 8yrs/80k. Now it needs a new head gasket at $2,500-$2,800.

[Mikej]

Lets face it, ALL insurance or extended warranties are offered because they can cover the "spread" - It just depends what you want. Also, if your wife wants it, just get it...

[-dustin]

it's a waste of money till it isn't...then you're thankful that you decided to get it. like most warranties.

factory is 3yrs, 36k? so 4yr/ 34k for $2300....i'd try to get the price down...$1600-ish.

that said, i put 75k miles on an Outback in 3yrs and had zero problems except the USB interface in the center console. i probably could've figured it out had i dug around, but didn't feel like messing with it.

[p nut]

My non Di2 09 Forester was trouble free for 8yrs/80k. Now it needs a new head gasket at $2,500-$2,800.

Foresters were prone to HG failures until they moved to a new engine platform in '14 (I believe). Non issue with Outbacks, at least with the newer gens.

[tele]

To the OP, there is a thread on subaruoutback forums somewhere with info/pricing on extended warranties. If I find it, I'll update this thread...but I think I remember a dealership here in New England that people from all over the country were getting the extended warranty from...

[TiminVA]

I purchased a 2016 Crosstrek last year and I've never had extended warranties pushed on me as hard as they did. Hopefully because it's not needed and the dealers know it's pure profit for them. I didn't purchase the warranty, but like the person above said there are plenty of dealers that will sell you the warranty much cheaper. I did research the warranty though and found a dealer in Colorado you could go through for about half of what my dealer wanted.

[tele]

Mastria Subaru in Mass seems to get good reviews on price:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/138-gen-5-2015-present/395226-cost-outback-added-security-7-years-100k-5.html

[bart998]

Definitely shop around. Mechanical breakdown insurance is available from pretty much any dealer or even your bank if you finance through them. But the devil is in the details. Read carefully what is and isn't covered.

[benb]

I have a '13 Outback. I did get the extended warranty, but the naysayers are right and I probably shouldn't have.

I had a plastic panel on the drivers side door replaced at about 10k miles because my arm was putting a dent in it if I put my arm up on the windowsill when driving around, they thought the panel was defective, and indeed the replacement looks brand new after 40k miles. (I have about 50k miles on my car) But that would not have been expensive if I'd paid for it, and it wasn't covered under the extended warranty anyway!

Nothing else has gone wrong on my car.

I think I did it because at the time I bought mine:
- The "FB" engine was brand new
- The CVT was relatively new

Their was a lot of angst in the Subaru forums back in 2012 about whether or not the FB engine would have the same head gasket failures as the EJ one it replaced, and there was a lot of angst about whether or not the CVTs would be reliable.

It turned out for the early FB engines the big issue was oil burning, and that was a major major issue that I think would instantly make the extended warranty worth it if it happened, but it's pretty clear my car doesn't have the issue at all. People who had it happen it was so bad they got new engines or rebuilds IIRC, so very expensive.

It seems like overall the fears have not been borne out, the FB engines have a much better head gasket design than the EJ ones did, and the CVTs have been reliable. (I love the CVT!)

Great car too.. so practical, and the lowered center of gravity with the boxer engine really makes the car handle fantastic compared to other vehicles with similar ground clearance. It might not have much power but it's surprisingly fun to drive. The newer ones are the best looking ones since 2010 IMO.. I like the look of my 2013 better than the 2010-2012 models but the newer ones are better looking than mine IMO.

[MattTuck]

There is no way to know if it is a good value unless you can see the future, or until you find out if you need to use warranty.

On average, it it is probably a very poor value. But for the person who has an major issue that the warranty pays for, it is probably a very good value.

So, the question of "value" has much more to do with your risk aversion, how you value money today vs. in the future, and whether you think you're likely to be the 'average' case or a tail case, and how you might feel in the future if you were either of those.

Personally, I like to have the warranty match the length of the loan. If I have a 5 year loan, I like to make sure that the warranty covers 5 years, so that I have visibility into my car related expenses during that period. To each, his own.

[benb]

The thing is you should look at it like insurance.

If you've got cash on hand to cover the most expensive repairs you could be stuck with (new engine, new transmission, etc..) and the car has a good reliability record then you might as well save the $2000-2500.

If you can't self insure against repairs and a major repair is going to be a major major issue that you can't afford to fix (like if you have to drive for work and a major breakdown could cause you to lose your job) than it makes sense as you can roll the warranty into the loan and maybe afford it more easily that way. You can always try to negotiate the price of the car or your trade in a way to cover the warranty cost too.

[Veloo]

Is the 2017 a 1st generation model?
I broke my cardinal rule of not buying 1st gen but my old Honda Civic was dead and I wanted to try the AWD of Subaru.
I worked in quality engineering in automoitive for a couple of years and saw how suppliers of parts and the auto makers really don't have many things ironed out when product first goes to market.

I'm on the extreme end of the spectrum as a few of my threads have shown - ie I got a lemon 2013 Impreza wagon.

My list of issues in the 5 years of ownership:
- burning oil - indicator light seems to come on every 1000 - 1200 km after a top up
- engine would sputter often
- two driver seat heater elements blown - I belive they run about $250 each
- retracting trunk cover broke
- engine coolant leaking
- bluetooth cuts out now and then

There's more but I don't have my list with me.
The engine was changed but I'm still burning oil and losing coolant.

There was a class action for the burning oil in both the USA and Canada. Not sure of the status at this point.

I ended up having a meeting with the dealership owner who spoke to Subaru on my behalf and they ended up giving me an OEM extended warranty and said they are committed to fixing my car. I believe the cost was about $2000 but nothing out of my pocket.

The extended warranty is bumper to bumper but realize there's still a list of items that are not covered like the PCV valve I had to replace yesterday for $22.

So just be wary of all the claims out there that Subaru has amazing quality. Someone's gotta be the statistic and I ended up being one of them.
If the 2017 is 2 or more years into that model then you're probably safe without extended. 1st gen I'd be wary.

[benb]

2017 is not a "new generation" for the outback.

Current Chassis goes back to 2010, engine goes back to 2011 or so (in the forester), CVT goes back to 2010. Engine, Transmission, and Suspension have all been heavily updated between 2013-2017. New engine came in 2013, new suspension in 2013, new version of CVT in 2013, facelift in 2013. Then the new engine got revised around 2015, sheetmetal and facelift in 2015.

A 2017 outback is probably pretty safe.. it's well developed at this point. A total redesign is probably due soon.

[Ken Robb]

I would never bet against myself by paying $2,000+/- for an extended warranty. Would saving that much up front be enough to make buying/leasing a new car by 80,000 miles a reasonable alternative to buying the warranty and driving an older car? Even though the warranty would cover the cost what about the inconvenience of breakdowns in a high mileage car? If the car has a major problem 1,000 miles into your family vacation and you're stuck standing on a corner in Winslow Arizona for 3-4 days would you regret trying to push past 80,000 miles?

Then I always wonder what happens if the car is stolen or totaled while still under warranty. SoCal Steve said he thinks M-B warranties are transferrable. I can imagine they are transferrable to a new owner if the car is sold but I don't know how a warranty company could handle a transfer from one car to another. This subject must be covered in the contract's fine print so a buyer would know before shelling out the $$$.

[DRZRM]

I got a 2005 Outback 2.5 XL. It was a year that became known for problematic turbos, and I'm had my 3rd (replaced twice) put in under my 70K extended ($2,700 to replace oem @ MSRP). There were other things that needed replacement, and I'm very happy that I did it. I paid closer to $1000 than $2,000, but can't remember the exact cost. Trying to decide on what to replace it with. Likely chosing between the VW Golf Wagen with 4x4 and a new Subaru.

Thread drift: Is there any way to get a 2" hitch on a VW wagon? Either the Alltrack or the Golf Wagen.

[Richard]

Subaru settlement:

http://jalopnik.com/subaru-settles-lawsuit-over-oil-burning-cars-1752805682

[JAGI410]

I wouldn't. I'm at 126k on my 04 Forester XT. The only things I've needed to fix so far have been the valve cover gasket ($50), axle ($100) and the driveshaft ($500). This is me doing all the work though, add shop labor and it goes up a bit. Parts are cheap and easy to get though, a local shop should have competitive rates and your chances of spending the $2300 are slim. Especially if you're paying interest on that. Save up an emergency car fund instead.

[Mikej]

Again, you can bargain the price of the warranty down. I was told 1050 for the 7/100000 and I got my 7/70000 for 850 - seriously, 850 usd.

[p nut]

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2014/04/extended-warranties-for-cars-are-an-expensive-game/index.htm

[MattTuck]

Good article, wish they gave the actual distributions for the data so we could understand the skew.

A recent Consumer Reports survey found that 55 percent of owners who purchased an extended warranty hadn’t used it for repairs during the lifetime of the policy, even though the median price paid for the coverage was just over $1,200. And, on average, those who did use it spent hundreds more for the coverage than they saved in repair costs.

Among survey participants who used their policy, the median out-of-pocket savings on repairs covered by extended warranties for all brands was $837.

Put another way. 45% of people did use the extended warranty. Median out of pocket was 837 for people who used it, so for everyone that had a repair that was less than 837, there was someone who had a repair more than 837.

if I'm doing my back of the envelop math the right way, that means half of 45% of people had repairs worth more than $837 that would be covered under the warranty. So, as a rough place to think about risk, there's about a 22.5% risk that you'll end up spending more than $837 on repairs in the period the extended warranty would be active.

[daker13]

I drive a 2015 Forester, and I wouldn't get the extended warranty.

The logic of the extended warranty--for ANYTHING--has always struck me as funny: Buy this product, it's great, it's wonderful, it's reliable, but oh yeah, it can crap out at any time once the regular warranty's over and THEN you're really screwed. Like, is the product good, or isn't it?

I have a friend who bought a Hyundai with the (regular) 100k warranty. The transmission died at 40K miles, and they replaced everything for free... but then he was stuck with a car whose transmission had been replaced, and his trade-in value really took a hit. He finally bit the bullet and just took whatever he could get for it, now he drives an Acura.

[MRB]

Any Subaru owners who wish they had bought it?

^ My wife and I purchased an extended warranty for her "newish" Legacy, but we never needed to use it, fortunately.

I picked up an older Outback, with no extended warranty available, and I'm fine with that.

As long-time Subaru owners, we've found that you absolutely have to stay on top of fluid levels, and use the correct / recommended fluids. Do that, and they're reliable cars. Parts seem to be expensive, IMO.

HTH

[soulspinner]

Buy it after the factory warranty is off if the car is troublesome. If not, dont. Why give them your money for repairs they dont pay for(warrant aftermarket co) until after factory is off? The dealer will be happy to sell it to you after the factory 3/36 and 5/60 powertrain is off.

[martl]

Thread drift: Is there any way to get a 2" hitch on a VW wagon? Either the Alltrack or the Golf Wagen.
No idea about the hitch, but one should be aware that a Subaru AWD is vastly superior in awd-performance compared to the 4motions Haldex system.
The VWs quality impression is better of course (shows in the interior and in the pricetag). Newer Subarus (as in late 90ies onward) are generally bulletproof in terms of reliability (with a very few exceptions).

So if you don't really rely upon the 4wd capabilities a lot, or expect that very specific driving dynamic of a true awd, the VWs are certainly an option.

The 4motion lets the issue happen (slip) then offers a fix (engage rwd too) - the Subaru AWD doesn't let the problem occur in the first place. As an engineer, i love the latter approach. It solves situations such as leaving a snowed-in parking spot or going up a slightly moist piece of grassland with a "*shrug* what was the problem again?"-attitude i like. Whether it makes any difference for 90% of the users is a different story.

[wc1934]

The price of a small electronic part + the shop labor could approach the cost of the extended warranty.
And, as others have mentioned, negotiate.

[iPaul]

2013 Crosstrek and used my extended warranty about 3 times. Twice for front axel, and an electronic problem that caused all my dash lights to glow. Now seeing faster oil consumption. Car at 111,000 so past the of extended range. This in contrast to my 2006 Baja, 235,000 miles and just now needed catalytic work and some gasket leaking.

Always a tough call but I'm not so sure Subarus of today live up to their past reputation.

[Johnny Alien]

The truth is that you should never base decisions like these on what people on the internet say because a warranty is a "peace of mind" thing more than anything else. My wife just bought a 2017 Outback and we got the warranty because she has massive anxiety about such things. Even if we never use it, it was absolutely worth the few extra bucks a month to make her feel better about things. Of course we bought end of year and got a massive discount on both the car and the warranty so it wasn't a huge deal. The person saying Subaru pushes them hard is correct. Tell them no a few times but make it seem like it's the price that is driving you away. They can and will drop that price significantly. I am not sure what their break point is.

[shovelhd]

Definitely shop around. Mechanical breakdown insurance is available from pretty much any dealer or even your bank if you finance through them. But the devil is in the details. Read carefully what is and isn't covered.

Right. Try and find a Subaru dealer that will sell you the Subaru factory warranty without the car. I know there are VW and Honda dealers that do this. You can buy it from them and add your VIN to it or use their price as leverage.

I've never bought a Subaru or an extended warranty on anything, but people have good reasons to.

[teleguy57]

The truth is that you should never base decisions like these on what people on the internet say because a warranty is a "peace of mind" thing more than anything else. My wife just bought a 2017 Outback and we got the warranty because she has massive anxiety about such things. Even if we never use it, it was absolutely worth the few extra bucks a month to make her feel better about things. Of course we bought end of year and got a massive discount on both the car and the warranty so it wasn't a huge deal. The person saying Subaru pushes them hard is correct. Tell them no a few times but make it seem like it's the price that is driving you away. They can and will drop that price significantly. I am not sure what their break point is.

Most thoughtful post I've seen on these kinds of discussions. Thank you. :beer:

[oldpotatoe]

The truth is that you should never base decisions like these on what people on the internet say because a warranty is a "peace of mind" thing more than anything else. My wife just bought a 2017 Outback and we got the warranty because she has massive anxiety about such things. Even if we never use it, it was absolutely worth the few extra bucks a month to make her feel better about things. Of course we bought end of year and got a massive discount on both the car and the warranty so it wasn't a huge deal. The person saying Subaru pushes them hard is correct. Tell them no a few times but make it seem like it's the price that is driving you away. They can and will drop that price significantly. I am not sure what their break point is.

This..I got an extended warranty on my GSW S 4Motion for this reason. It was not very expensive, even less considering the extra 7 years and 67,000 miles.

It 'may' be my last car and I like the idea that I don't have to worry about $repair$ that 'may' be big bux..

[thirdgenbird]

Newer Subarus (as in late 90ies onward) are generally bulletproof in terms of reliability (with a very few exceptions).

If you consider the headgaskets general maintenance.

The problem appears to be fixed with the newest engine, but you can shop for Subarus from the mid 2000s by searching the term "head gasket" in Craigslist.

[Bentley]

I have found that if you keep a car they are a good value, also if you put a lot of miles on a car. Never pay retail on an extended warranty, negotiate the price down. Also, lots of third party options that are cheaper than the dealer. My threshold is like $1000.

I've had cars that have been trouble free except for one big fix that ended up paying for the warranty. Obviously, personal preference, no right or wrong answer to this question.

Ray

[alancw3]

It 'may' be my last car and I like the idea that I don't have to worry about $repair$ that 'may' be big bux..

enough of that kind of talk! seriously at 69 years old i am starting to think the same way as i usually keep my cars for 10+ years.

[efaust_o]

The truth is that you should never base decisions like these on what people on the internet say because a warranty is a "peace of mind" thing more than anything else. I am not sure what their break point is.

I agree, no one knows your situation better than you, but feedback is good....see Outback forum for negotiations others have done...as with previous take w/ a grain of salt...I think I saved $500-$800 on my 2016 by declining first offer...good luck..

[ckamp]

You can also negotiate price of the warranty. I got about 15-20%.

I have owned 3x Subaru's. All three of them I used the extra warranty, only 1 broke-even from the initial cost, the others exceeded the initial cost.


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[batman1425]

I got one at the time of purchase for my VW. It didn't appreciably change our monthly - maybe 35 or 40/mo if I remember right, took the factory 3/36k to 6/100k. Comprehensive coverage exclusive of common wear items. Car hasn't seen many miles (so far on track for only 6k in the first year) so was more interested in the time than the miles.

With the amortization it works out to an extra 2,400 or so over the 6 years. Doesn't take many repairs in that 3-6yr age range to recover - especially with all the fancy and fragile bits in modern vehicles that seem to have short lifespans and are $$$-$$$$ to replace. VW's aren't a hallmark of reliability compared to Subarus though - so likelihood of you winning that bet may be lower. My car has A LOT of expensive electronic junk in it and makes 17psi of boost stock... I'm betting the warranty will save me in the long run.

We did the same for the Wife's rav4. That case was a bit unique - it was an 8yr old car with 23k miles on it when we bought it. The previous owners were an older couple that used it exclusively for a yearly trip from PA to FL and back. We bought the coverage because Toyota's plans are pro-rated on milage and the age of the car kicked it out of the CPO plan, so we got a scorching deal on their top tier extended option which gave us 3 or 4 yrs and up to 100k from the time we bought the plan I think. Already paid for itself when we had a couple spendy sensors go in the first year of ownership.

[Ken Robb]

2013 Crosstrek and used my extended warranty about 3 times. Twice for front axel,.

I knew Subies were good in snow but I didn't know they could figure skate. :)

[oldpotatoe]

As an aside and considering the amount of electronic gizmos in today's cars. Son has a new 2017 Honda Civic LX...has 'car-net' via touch screen, that also controls radio, heater. Well it went to 'green screen of death'. Dealer scrambling to find a replacement but if not under some sort of warranty, $ would approach $ of extended warranty, considering the $ for that part and labor $ to install.

[Ken Robb]

As an aside and considering the amount of electronic gizmos in today's cars. Son has a new 2017 Honda Civic LX...has 'car-net' via touch screen, that also controls radio, heater. Well it went to 'green screen of death'. Dealer scrambling to find a replacement but if not under some sort of warranty, $ would approach $ of extended warranty, considering the $ for that part and labor $ to install.
I may not be alone in wishing we could still buy new cars that have 5 controls for heat/AC. Temperature knob or lever, fan speed knob, air distribution lever or knob, rear window defroster button, and on/off button for A/C compressor. I could always get what I wanted without taking my eyes off the road and there were no sensors to fail. Let's not get started on huge key fobs that weigh down my pants pockets and let me start my car by pushing a button because it also requires the correct combination of button pushes on the door handle to open 1,2, or 4 doors. I was just fine with a simple metal key (security chips in them were ok) that opened the door, turned on the ignition and let me start the car with a twist of the key. What's better about having a separate start/stop button? I hate to think what a replacement fob will cost if an original is lost or damaged. I suppose at some time the batteries will die and they may not be replaceable.

[Aaron O]

Extended warranties are statistically only a good deal for the vendor - whether it's for cars or anything else. They do clearly bail out consumers occasionally, but for the most part I think they're a waste of money.

One exception I've found is iPhones.

[p nut]

One exception I've found is iPhones.

Really? I've had iPhones (since 3) for now over 10 years and never had issues, other than small issues that cropped up which usually revealed itself in the first few weeks.

[Aaron O]

Really? I've had iPhones (since 3) for now over 10 years and never had issues, other than small issues that cropped up which usually revealed itself in the first few weeks.

We've had VERY different experiences in that case...every phone I've had (Since 4) has required warranty service. Some my fault, some defect. I'd guess I've probably broken even all things considered...most of the issues haven't been that big/pricey.

Broken screens
Charge ports that go bad
Home buttons stop working

etc...

The ipods before that were even worse...those CONSTANTLY went bad. The hard drive memories.

[batman1425]

I may not be alone in wishing we could still buy new cars that have 5 controls for heat/AC. Temperature knob or lever, fan speed knob, air distribution lever or knob, rear window defroster button, and on/off button for A/C compressor. I could always get what I wanted without taking my eyes off the road and there were no sensors to fail. Let's not get started on huge key fobs that weigh down my pants pockets and let me start my car by pushing a button because it also requires the correct combination of button pushes on the door handle to open 1,2, or 4 doors. I was just fine with a simple metal key (security chips in them were ok) that opened the door, turned on the ignition and let me start the car with a twist of the key. What's better about having a separate start/stop button? I hate to think what a replacement fob will cost if an original is lost or damaged. I suppose at some time the batteries will die and they may not be replaceable.

The proximity fob for my VW is a bit over $600 to replace if you lose or break it but does have user replaceable batteries. It is so big though that I don't attach my other keys to it so it doesn't make any noise and have come close to sending it through the wash because I left it in my pocket... Thankfully no baths yet.

For comparison. the touch screen head unit in my car - which like OP's sons Civic is the nerve center of the whole car goes for $900 from online suppliers - obviously doesn't include shipping or installation and if memory serves, you need a dealer to activate it. Even when new they are somewhat prone to glitching/locking up. The A3 I had fried 2 head units and the computer for the HVAC system (no defrosters in a Wisconsin winter - getting to the dealer that day with my head out the window and ski goggles on was interesting...) all in the first 3 years of ownership. Didn't even bother with an extended warranty with that one, just sold it when the factory warranty wore out - the inconvenience was bad enough.

I've never had a "fob" car but I like the convenience. Lots to go wrong though, sensors everywhere. The pushbutton start is gimmicky and it can get confused if you stall the car and try to restart too fast. Makes good entertainment when this happens in the middle of an intersection. My biggest gripe is the electronic E-brake. Total waste of money and weight and you can't apply or release it without the ignition on. Doesn't sound like a big deal until a battery dies and you need to roll the car out of a space or onto a tow or something but cant release the brake. I had a situation where I got parked in - couldn't get the drivers side door open and my legs are too long to make the turn crawling over from the passenger side. Though ok no problem, put in neutral, drop the brake and I'll roll it out. This is when I learned that to disengage the brake, the ignition has to be on, and your foot on the brake pedal. Half climbed over the center console to get one foot on the brake (think sitting on the center console with one leg in each foot well, push ignition switch and brake release between legs, reverse contortionist process to get out of car, put it in neutral, and push it out of the spot so I can open the driver door. If the electrical system gets totally knackered or the brake seizes, I think the only way to get the car rolling is to disassemble the electric motor. Some things are better left analog.

[p nut]

I may not be alone in wishing we could still buy new cars that have 5 controls for heat/AC. Temperature knob or lever, fan speed knob, air distribution lever or knob, rear window defroster button, and on/off button for A/C compressor. I could always get what I wanted without taking my eyes off the road and there were no sensors to fail. Let's not get started on huge key fobs that weigh down my pants pockets and let me start my car by pushing a button because it also requires the correct combination of button pushes on the door handle to open 1,2, or 4 doors. I was just fine with a simple metal key (security chips in them were ok) that opened the door, turned on the ignition and let me start the car with a twist of the key. What's better about having a separate start/stop button? I hate to think what a replacement fob will cost if an original is lost or damaged. I suppose at some time the batteries will die and they may not be replaceable.

I've got exactly that. In my late model F150 XLT. Deliberately avoided higher end models. You can even get an XL with manual roll up windows! Plus vinyl floor and manual adjust side mirrors.

[Veloo]

So next week I'm getting my engine replaced for the SECOND time. Still burning oil. And a friend sent me this. Just for you awareness.

http://www.wheels.ca/car-reviews/buying-used-2012-16-subaru-impreza/

[Mr. Pink]

So next week I'm getting my engine replaced for the SECOND time. Still burning oil. And a friend sent me this. Just for you awareness.

http://www.wheels.ca/car-reviews/buying-used-2012-16-subaru-impreza/

My 2010 Forester just lost its engine on a long road trip back from the Rockies to the east coast. 95,000 miles, changed the oil before traveling, my bad I didn't check it, but, I haven't checked oil in years. One assumes certain basic reliability factors in modern cars. Stupid me. 6000 dollars. Yup, 6000 bucks. Now I'm stuck with this car for at least a few years because I can't justify selling or trading it after that financial hit. I've been a Subaru driver for over twenty years, but, as you can imagine, maybe not in the future.

[AngryScientist]

My 2010 Forester just lost its engine on a long road trip back from the Rockies to the east coast. 95,000 miles, changed the oil before traveling, my bad I didn't check it, but, I haven't checked oil in years. One assumes certain basic reliability factors in modern cars. Stupid me. 6000 dollars. Yup, 6000 bucks. Now I'm stuck with this car for at least a few years because I can't justify selling or trading it after that financial hit. I've been a Subaru driver for over twenty years, but, as you can imagine, maybe not in the future.

what model year car was this?

there are very few cars i would put a new $6k engine into.

[Spdntrxi]

Burning oil... my Passat been doing that for 180k.. now has 260k

I just check and add often

[batman1425]

Oil consumption is becoming common across manufacturers as they move to low displacement high compression turbo engines for better fuel economy with good performance.

Its hard (read: expensive) to build these kinds of motors to tolerances that effectively eliminate oil seepage through rings and turbos. VAG has has been notorious for this across the board at least as far back as the old 1.8T with leaky turbo seals, maybe longer. The folks with the twin turbo BMW engines are seeing similar problems. I'd never buy tone of those turbo BMWs second hand without a comprehensive powertrain warranty. It's the nature of the consumer demand for power, price, and efficiency. They take some babysitting to get all 3.

Always have 2 quarts in your trunk and get in the habit of checking every other fill up.

[Richard]

I've said it before. Google Subaru class action lawsuit over oil burning. They lost the suit and for those who paid for a new engine, may owe you money!

[tkbike]

I feel like I'm living on borrowed time and kind of embarrassed I have never checked my oil between changes! 2011 outback - 137k, 2007 outback - 218k and the 3rd one in my driveway, 2002 Impreza - 309k. Oil changed roughly every 5k on all, nothing but routine maintenance, even went 95k on the 2011 before needing brakes!

[oldpotatoe]

I may not be alone in wishing we could still buy new cars that have 5 controls for heat/AC. Temperature knob or lever, fan speed knob, air distribution lever or knob, rear window defroster button, and on/off button for A/C compressor. I could always get what I wanted without taking my eyes off the road and there were no sensors to fail. Let's not get started on huge key fobs that weigh down my pants pockets and let me start my car by pushing a button because it also requires the correct combination of button pushes on the door handle to open 1,2, or 4 doors. I was just fine with a simple metal key (security chips in them were ok) that opened the door, turned on the ignition and let me start the car with a twist of the key. What's better about having a separate start/stop button? I hate to think what a replacement fob will cost if an original is lost or damaged. I suppose at some time the batteries will die and they may not be replaceable.

My 2017 VW GSW 'S' 4 Motion has manual heater/A/C controls and key to start ignition(not push button)...

[Mr. Pink]

what model year car was this?

there are very few cars i would put a new $6k engine into.


'10 Forester.

Put yourself in this situation. You are at least a thousand miles from home, your car is almost full of luggage and stuff, including 4 pair of skis and a snowboard in a Thule box on top. Oh, and, of course, you don't have your title. Your engine tanks. It's obvious, there's things rattling around if it starts. What do you do? The way I saw it, either have the thing fixed, so I can get home, with my stuff, or leave the car there, (with new 800 dollar tires and really fresh brakes), put all my stuff in a UHaul and drive home. Then what? Buy a new car? From whom? Home or where I broke down? Fly back and forth?
Yeah, I know, bad situation. It's so bad, I don't want to think about it much, because it's painful. But, in the end, I'll probably get another 60,000 out of the thing, and a few years. Whatever. Cars. Whenever I hear someone call one an investment, I want to spit.