DIY internal routing?

[Luwabra]

So, how bad can I "F" this frame up.. frame in question is an 853 lemond poprad. I want to drill it, put the proper brake cable fittings in place and move the cable from top of top tube. Grind off existing fixed cable stop hardware. Sending to powder coat after fall2017 so I'll get this done and possibly spread the chainstays to accept a 40mm. The internal cable routing is something I'd like done prior to powder to be able to run a top tube bag and also a standard frame bag w/o interfering w cable.

Send it to a frame builder or get out the makita ?

[C. Matthews]

[QUOTE=Luwabra;2147626]So, how bad can I "F" this frame up.. frame in question is an 853 lemond poprad. I want to drill it, put the proper brake cable fittings in place and move the cable from top of top tube. Grind off existing fixed cable stop hardware. Sending to powder coat after fall2017 so I'll get this done and possibly spread the chainstays to accept a 40mm. The internal cable routing is something I'd like done prior to powder to be able to run a top tube bag and also a standard frame bag w/o interfering w cable.

Send it to a frame builder or get out the makita ?[/QUOTE

To do it right, you'd want to braze in a guide tube...simple and easy if you have some torch/framework experience, but its not the kind of task a first-timer should take on.
It would be a whole lot easier to modify your bag straps to clear the cable stops.

[carpediemracing]

http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/STEEL-INTERNAL-GUIDE-END-FOR-TOP-TUBE.html

You could get a set of these, cut appropriate holes in appropriate places, thread a 4mm tube through the top tube if you so desire (or just run a regular housing through the top tube), use super duper epoxy to hold in place.

I have similar items for the top tube as well as the downtube on my black bike. For the downtube the cable housing stops at the stop and a bare cable travels down the downtube.

For the top tube a complete housing goes through the top tube. I know some frames (like older Trek frames) had noise with this set up but my bike is quiet, I minimized the housing length (adjustable since I use Nokons) and it works well.

One of the cable stops popped off and I glued it back in place with a two part epoxy. The epoxy is probably stronger than the metal that it's bonding.

There is a bonding/brazing/whatever lip around the fitting. The opening for the fitting is just big enough to thread a housing through without bending it much.

My frame is aluminum but I suspect it would work on steel fine. Not sure about 853 in particular, if it's super thin, etc.

[Luwabra]

Sweet^ this is similar to my aluminum cx frame. The unknown is compromising tubing strength- this I have no idea about. I agree the proper way to do it is braze in a routing tube. If this ^ will work w/o risking strength I'm in.

Thanks for responses