Chris King hub help needed, BADLY!!

[snah]

So, here's the skinny, my rear hub has started the, apparently common, slipping. Decided, from YouTube videos, that a quick service is pretty easy. Problem is I can't even get it started, the cap on the non-drive side, which should easily pull off, I can't it the thing to budge. I just need to get the cassette body off to clean and re-lube. Any suggestions?? I'm desperate.

[Dave B]

I thought those screwed off not just pulled off.

[snah]

I thought those screwed off not just pulled off.

I tried that too, but can't seem to get it to spin.

[Ken Robb]

I have never worked on these but those notches look like they MIGHT be for using a spanner wrench with spinners. For our Brit pals let me say that not all of our wrenches are spanners. Some people call the tool I have in mind "pin spanners". I also must confess that on occasions when I didn't have a spanner I was able to get by putting the pointed arms of big needle-nose pliers in the notches and using both hands on the pliers arms to turn the nut.

[guyintense]

I clamp a 5 mm allen wrench in a vice and place the drive side on it and then use a long 5 mm wrench to unscrew the non drive side. Some times it take quite an effort to get it to pop loose, a little more leverage helps. When you reassemble be sure to grease those threads to make it easier next time.

[Dave B]

Did you buy these new? If not I wonder if someone used thread lock or if they just seized up as a result of being wet and sitting.

[parallelfish]

Which model hub is that? Classic, R45...etc?

[parallelfish]

Okay, looks like the Classic with two piece axle. That end piece screws off. Link to the manual below.

https://chrisking.com/files/public/content/media/document/9/9/classicmanual.pdf

[moobikes]

If you haven't, please do yourself a favor and read the service instructions from CK for Classic hubs. Not difficult to work on but they do require some time to service properly if it's your first attempt.

The non-drive end cap does not pull off. It threads on to the axle. Drive side end cap is part of the axle, it doesn't come off at all.

Two 5mm allen wrenches, one for each end cap. Make sure they are good quality, for a good fit so you don't chew up the end caps.

Unscrew the non-drive side end cap. Could be very tight, but it will come off. If you have a vice, clamp one allen wrench in the vice, put the drive side end cap over that. Unscrew the non-drive side, anti-clockwise.

Then unscrew the adjusting collar/ nut and then you can pull the driveshell off and slide the axle through the hub to expose the drive rings on the drive side.

Spray the heck out of the drive rings with WD-40. Remember to separate the two rings inside the hubshell. Use a small flat head screwdriver or a pick of some sort. Just push them apart. They're pushed together with a spring.

After the drive rings are clean, clean and lube all the bearings.

[lonoeightysix]

if, for some godawful chance someone used loctite, a little thermal action via heatgun or soldering iron will help. 5mm in the vise and either a solid 5mm long arm hex key, or better yet, a 1/4" or 3/8" drive 5mm hex bit is your friend. if you feel the urge to cheap out on tools, cross reference CK parts on aspirevelotech first...

i prefer a full service vs. the partial flush-n-go. at the least, once you pull the free hub, make sure each individual bearings (hubshell and freehub) are smooth and grit free prior to reassembly.

[11.4]

If you haven't, please do yourself a favor and read the service instructions from CK for Classic hubs. Not difficult to work on but they do require some time to service properly if it's your first attempt.

The non-drive end cap does not pull off. It threads on to the axle. Drive side end cap is part of the axle, it doesn't come off at all.

Two 5mm allen wrenches, one for each end cap. Make sure they are good quality, for a good fit so you don't chew up the end caps.

Unscrew the non-drive side end cap. Could be very tight, but it will come off. If you have a vice, clamp one allen wrench in the vice, put the drive side end cap over that. Unscrew the non-drive side, anti-clockwise.

Then unscrew the adjusting collar/ nut and then you can pull the driveshell off and slide the axle through the hub to expose the drive rings on the drive side.

Spray the heck out of the drive rings with WD-40. Remember to separate the two rings inside the hubshell. Use a small flat head screwdriver or a pick of some sort. Just push them apart. They're pushed together with a spring.

After the drive rings are clean, clean and lube all the bearings.

This is basically it. As the hubs come from CK, these are VERY tight. It takes a lot of effort to get it loose and as pointed out above, if you use a crappy Allen wrench you can cam it out or simply round the hole and then you have to saw off the axle and replaces several parts. Don't do that.

The little notches on the inner part (what passes for a race) are just to help turn it or immobilize it with a little tool CK sells. You don't need the tool but it makes it easier.

When the axle is out, just pull the freehub hard and it'll pop out. Slide it in firmly afterwards and that's all it takes. You rarely have to disassemble more than that. Just take a spray can of TriFlow and blast the freehub until the TriFlow comes out clean. Then you can just use a box cutter to open up the seals on the outside hub bearings, spray them clean, and use some light lube like CK RingLube to relubricate it, reassemble, and you're done.

Almost inevitably, the hub will end up slightly loose. Ride the wheel around the block a few times and see if there's any wobble at the brake blocks with the wheel clamped in the frame. If so, you'll have to loosen the locknut and tighten slightly.