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kookmyers
03-01-2017, 02:11 PM
I rode my new to me Holland Exogrid for the first time on my normal commute today. 14.6 miles, 860ft elevation gain. Previously I had only ridden it around the neighborhood.

History: I have been riding a Cannondale Supersix Evo with Ultegra Di2. it had the stock seat and i rode with gatorskin 25's.

This bike has Campagnolo Super Record 11speed and Michelin Pro 4 Endurance 23's. A Selle SMP Dynamic saddle.

Please note that these are my opinions. I dont want to ruffle any feathers.

Shifting: what a difference. The Di2 was so much better. I cant believe the lever length required for shifting. It will take me some time to get used to it. I have to move my hands to just the right place, which is just off the hoods to trigger the thumb down lever.

Gearing: I had a compact crank and an 11-28 on the Cannondale. This has a standard crank with an 11-25. There was certainly a difference here for the hills. I just mapped the ride and it gave me a max grade of 12%. I used my easiest gear quite a bit. Luckily i did not have to stand.

Saddle: I am not going to lie. My butt hurts. I have been sick and it has been raining quite a bit so i have not been riding much. Is a new saddle something that we all have to get used to or should it just feel good right away?

Speed: I was able to ride downhill faster and i ended up riding uphill faster because of the gearing. I was also working a lot harder. I cant compare the ride length because i have decided to be more lawful in my riding which obviously slows me down.

Ride quality: its too hard for me to say.

Overall: Am i glad i did it? the jury is still out. I have to ride home and plan to ride tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.

Ken Robb
03-01-2017, 03:00 PM
While a rider MAY get used to a saddle that is initially uncomfortable I would not bother when I have been able to find saddles that are fine right out of the box. Some saddles are more critical concerning nose up/down adjustment so I would try making small changes on a few rides before giving up on a saddle. Brooks saddles in my opinion are very demanding that up/down nose be just right or the rider will be miserable. By the same token I think almost anyone can get comfy on a Brooks if they take the time to get the position just right. I'm sure plenty of riders have given up prematurely on Brooks.

R3awak3n
03-01-2017, 03:12 PM
hmmm, why don't you just put the old saddle on the new bike?

people like those SMPs but I am sure they are not for everyone

Mark McM
03-01-2017, 03:15 PM
Shifting: what a difference. The Di2 was so much better. I cant believe the lever length required for shifting. It will take me some time to get used to it. I have to move my hands to just the right place, which is just off the hoods to trigger the thumb down lever.

Can we assume you are referring to the using the thumb button with your hands in the drops? The reach to the thumb buttons obviously depends on where your hands. I personally hold onto the drops right up at the front of the curve, with my forefingers up against the bottom of the lever body, so my thumbs are already right next to the thumb buttons. I can see how the thumb buttons could be a much longer reach if your hands are further toward the ends of the drops.

Speed: I was able to ride downhill faster and i ended up riding uphill faster because of the gearing. I was also working a lot harder. I cant compare the ride length because i have decided to be more lawful in my riding which obviously slows me down.

With grade steepness as high as you say, you might have been able to ride even faster without pedaling at all. On steep downhills, you can often save more power by squeezing into a tight tuck (which reduces aerodynamic drag) than the power you can add by sitting up and pedaling. Obviously, the speeds/grades at which can go faster coasting in a tight a tuck then when pedaling depends on many factors, but for me the cross-over point occurs between 35 - 40 mph, or roughly a 6 - 7% grade.

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 05:36 PM
hmmm, why don't you just put the old saddle on the new bike?


That's a great question. I am going to be attempting to sell the old bike completely stock (other than the tires) and i figured there would be some adjustment period. Comments here seem to suggest not.

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 05:41 PM
Can we assume you are referring to the using the thumb button with your hands in the drops?

I am actually referring to any of my normal positions. I ride in the hoods where i have to shift my hand back to allow my thumb to hit the thumb lever and when i am in the drops I need to reach my thumb quite a bit. Keep in mind that i am used to just tapping a button that is accessible from both these locations, so i am a bit spoiled.

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 05:44 PM
With grade steepness as high as you say, you might have been able to ride even faster without pedaling at all. On steep downhills, you can often save more power by squeezing into a tight tuck (which reduces aerodynamic drag) than the power you can add by sitting up and pedaling. Obviously, the speeds/grades at which can go faster coasting in a tight a tuck then when pedaling depends on many factors, but for me the cross-over point occurs between 35 - 40 mph, or roughly a 6 - 7% grade.

Wow, you are much faster than i am! i think i was going 33-34 while pedaling on the 11 tooth! I think i need to work on my cadence and ability to spin faster because i was feeling uncomfortable with the leg rotation speed.

PaMtbRider
03-01-2017, 06:08 PM
I am actually referring to any of my normal positions. I ride in the hoods where i have to shift my hand back to allow my thumb to hit the thumb lever and when i am in the drops I need to reach my thumb quite a bit. Keep in mind that i am used to just tapping a button that is accessible from both these locations, so i am a bit spoiled.

When you're riding in the hoods just use the side of your palm to shift the "thumb" shifter.

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 06:36 PM
When you're riding in the hoods just use the side of your palm to shift the "thumb" shifter.

That's a great idea that i will try tonight. Thanks!

SoCalSteve
03-01-2017, 08:33 PM
For what it's worth...

Cycling is a very personal sport. Gloves, saddles, shoes,shorts, shifters and the list goes on and on are all very personal to each rider. For myself, this has been honed down after many thousands of miles of riding.

Just because you bought a used bike complete, does not mean you have to use all the components on it. Sell off the parts you don't feel comfortable with and replace them with the parts you do. The classifieds here are a great place for this. Get a few more postings under your belt and you'll be a great asset to our forum.

Good luck!

Kirk007
03-01-2017, 10:07 PM
If your goal is to try and decide whether you like the Holland more than the Cannondale you will need to make it an apple to apple comparison of the frames. While you can probably overcome the differences in the gruppos I'd recommend you use the same wheels and tires and saddle at a minimum. At a certain level of frame, in my experience, you may be able to discern a difference between high end frames, maybe one that you prefer, but it is hard indeed to say that one is better than another. If you could only have one or the other, you would still have a fine bike.

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 11:15 PM
For what it's worth...

Cycling is a very personal sport. Gloves, saddles, shoes,shorts, shifters and the list goes on and on are all very personal to each rider. For myself, this has been honed down after many thousands of miles of riding.

Just because you bought a used bike complete, does not mean you have to use all the components on it. Sell off the parts you don't feel comfortable with and replace them with the parts you do. The classifieds here are a great place for this. Get a few more postings under your belt and you'll be a great asset to our forum.

Good luck!

Good point.
Btw, you guys are super nice!

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 11:20 PM
If your goal is to try and decide whether you like the Holland more than the Cannondale you will need to make it an apple to apple comparison of the frames. While you can probably overcome the differences in the gruppos I'd recommend you use the same wheels and tires and saddle at a minimum. At a certain level of frame, in my experience, you may be able to discern a difference between high end frames, maybe one that you prefer, but it is hard indeed to say that one is better than another. If you could only have one or the other, you would still have a fine bike.

Indeed. Its funny that a month ago I was looking to buy a fast ebike. Don't throw me under the bus! Now my GF is thinking I am crazy that I bought something that makes the commute more difficult.
I was interested in getting something other than a carbon frame because I have it pretty heavily loaded with crap. I mos recently added a beam rack to get rid of the backpack. I was shopping for more of a touring rig, when I found the Holland and I couldn't resist.

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 11:22 PM
Rode back home. I felt more comfortable but the hills were rough. I made it all the way to the last hill where I "had" to stand up and was panting at the top. I need to go on a diet.

kookmyers
03-01-2017, 11:23 PM
When you're riding in the hoods just use the side of your palm to shift the "thumb" shifter.

I tried it but couldn't get my hand to make it work.....
Thanks for the suggestion.

vqdriver
03-02-2017, 12:12 AM
I couldnt get past the thumb paddles for me. It was just way too unnatural. But as steve says, its a very personal thing and groups arent terrible to swap.
Concentrate on the frame because thats really what you bought. Those exogrids are sexy as hell, so if it fits, give it a month or so without paying attention. Set it up with the cdale wheels and saddle and just ride the thing. Some ride differences can be quite subtle.
After a month go back to the cdale, with the same wheels and saddle, and i think the differences will suddenly become apparent.

lookout2015
03-02-2017, 06:53 AM
That's a great question. I am going to be attempting to sell the old bike completely stock (other than the tires) and i figured there would be some adjustment period. Comments here seem to suggest not.

If you like the old saddle, keep it and sell the old bike with everything but saddle

No one thinks it odd for "complete" to mean "everything but saddle and / or pedals" (as long as its very clear up front that those are not part of the offering)

Tickdoc
03-02-2017, 07:17 AM
sounds like the might not be the bike for you. You are coming off a very light bike, and di2 may be all you really want to shift.

I love my campy thumb shifters. four bikes and year ranges that span 20 years and all of them feel like an extension of my hand and are easy to shift. I really didn't have a problem with shimano or sram either, though, as far as shifting goes.

Exogrids are not the most common bikes out there, and a campy equipped one should not be too hard to dispose of this time of year.

best of luck!

GonaSovereign
03-02-2017, 07:33 AM
Sell the Super Record. You can get a full 6870 group, with compact crank of your choice, for ~$1200. Swap saddles. Don't settle.

The mass-produced bike you're coming from is a heck of a good bike, so you're not going to find much better, performance-wise. Looks and personal preferences are another matter.

teleguy57
03-02-2017, 08:01 AM
And we need a pic of the new bike! :beer:

oldpotatoe
03-02-2017, 08:04 AM
Sell the Super Record. You can get a full 6870 group, with compact crank of your choice, for ~$1200. Swap saddles. Don't settle.

The mass-produced bike you're coming from is a heck of a good bike, so you're not going to find much better, performance-wise. Looks and personal preferences are another matter.

Or a full Campag Chorus EPS for $1500..doh!! Droopy thimb buttons too.

Indeed!!

https://www.merlincycles.com/campagnolo-chorus-v2-eps-groupset-2016-94553.html

kookmyers
03-02-2017, 12:40 PM
I rode home last night and started to feel some neck and shoulder pain. Enough to make me stop and remove my light from my helmet to reduce the weight. I got over it soon enough when i got home.
This morning for my ride in, by about mile 10, my upper body was in pretty bad shape. when i got to where i was going, i took ibuprofen. That is a very rare thing for me.
I've never experienced this before. This is only my 3rd bike as an adult.
Started with a 60cm BMC Streetracer. That was an aluminum bike that i got deeply discounted online. I really liked it but it cracked in two places in a minor car accident. (me vs. car)
Second bike is the 63cm Cannondale from this tread. No problem on that transition at all.
Thanks for all the help and input guys!

ptourkin
03-02-2017, 03:46 PM
I rode home last night and started to feel some neck and shoulder pain. Enough to make me stop and remove my light from my helmet to reduce the weight. I got over it soon enough when i got home.
This morning for my ride in, by about mile 10, my upper body was in pretty bad shape. when i got to where i was going, i took ibuprofen. That is a very rare thing for me.
I've never experienced this before. This is only my 3rd bike as an adult.
Started with a 60cm BMC Streetracer. That was an aluminum bike that i got deeply discounted online. I really liked it but it cracked in two places in a minor car accident. (me vs. car)
Second bike is the 63cm Cannondale from this tread. No problem on that transition at all.
Thanks for all the help and input guys!

If you are hurting that much after such a short ride, it's your body not being used to riding. Don't make any big changes. Just keep riding. You'll start feeling better and then you can figure out what is wrong.

If you spend money, it should be on a fit. Cody at Holland is the best in the business and he also sold your bike to the original owner.

kookmyers
03-02-2017, 05:12 PM
If you are hurting that much after such a short ride, it's your body not being used to riding. Don't make any big changes. Just keep riding. You'll start feeling better and then you can figure out what is wrong.

If you spend money, it should be on a fit. Cody at Holland is the best in the business and he also sold your bike to the original owner.


That's just it though. I have been riding this route for several years now. With the two other bikes I did not have any issues. I had about 3 weeks off the bike due to sickness and weather, but rode the Cannondale one day last week and was completely fine for those 30 miles.
I am actually going to inconvenience a co-worker to drive me home because i am worried about the strain i am putting on myself.