Help identifying Campagnolo hubset

[exapkib]

Friends--

Can anyone help me in identifying what I've got here?

I found these on a local classified site:

http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o641/1zaxxon/IMG_3894_zpsepmuopk2.jpg (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/1zaxxon/media/IMG_3894_zpsepmuopk2.jpg.html)

http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o641/1zaxxon/IMG_3895_zpsixsmrckd.jpg (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/1zaxxon/media/IMG_3895_zpsixsmrckd.jpg.html)

http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o641/1zaxxon/IMG_3896_zpsqkpk8wkn.jpg (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/1zaxxon/media/IMG_3896_zpsqkpk8wkn.jpg.html)

http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o641/1zaxxon/IMG_3897_zpsnf2lgomh.jpg (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/1zaxxon/media/IMG_3897_zpsnf2lgomh.jpg.html)

The ad copy had no details. The price was low enough that I had a friend grab them for me, so I haven't seen them in person yet. I'll post more details here this weekend when I've got them in my hands.

Thanks in advance!

[bigbill]

Record? It says so on the hub. Probably 2003ish based on the plastic cap. 9-11 speed. Looks like at least one is missing the grease port cover. Good hubs, if you get them built back up with new rims, get an experienced builder, the hub flanges had a tendency to break if you go too high in tension.

[exapkib]

Yes! Thanks for the tidbits.

I will be curious to know how much work these will need--any other information or tips out there would be most appreciated.


Record? It says so on the hub. Probably 2003ish based on the plastic cap. 9-11 speed. Looks like at least one is missing the grease port cover. Good hubs, if you get them built back up with new rims, get an experienced builder, the hub flanges had a tendency to break if you go too high in tension.

[oldpotatoe]

Record? It says so on the hub. Probably 2003ish based on the plastic cap. 9-11 speed. Looks like at least one is missing the grease port cover. Good hubs, if you get them built back up with new rims, get an experienced builder, the hub flanges had a tendency to break if you go too high in tension.

Correct and made thru 2006. Not trying to argue but I've built hundreds and have seen hundreds built and I have never seen a flange broken. IMHO, YMMV, and all that.

For the OP-Easy to OVH. 5mm allen in both sides, lefty loosey, LH axle end(don't lose wee washer!). 2.55 aallen in adjust cap, unscrew. 5mm allen in drive side, 17mm open end, left threaded(RIGHY-loosey) for nut that holds freehub body on. Cones and bearings same front and back(15 5/32 each side bearing balls in fiber cages). Cones easy to find(I have them), cups harder to both get out and find.

[Mackers]

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[oldpotatoe]

I've seen plenty with broken flanges, an excellent and cheap source of spare parts.

On these hubs? Again, not trying to argue but been building with these since 1999 and I haven't. Where, which?

[Mackers]

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[oldpotatoe]

DS rear flange on the OS Record and Chorus hubs.

Haven't seen any Daytona or Centaurs like that though, so perhaps they did use a different alloy.

10-4. Interesting direction of the crack, since it's not the same direction as the pull of the spoke at that hole(aft). Also runs below the spoke hole. I guess the spoke could have pulled that section aft..donno.

But I doubt because the wheel was 'overtensioned'. The rim will fail way before a flange will, IMHO. Just never seen an issue with this era of hubs, flange wise. Maybe I've been lucky or sumthin. I did break a flange on a C Record, FW hubset after I smacked a 4 inch 'lip' at a construction site. But it had nothing to do with wheel tension.

[Mark McM]

10-4. Interesting direction of the crack, since it's not the same direction as the pull of the spoke at that hole(aft). Also runs below the spoke hole. I guess the spoke could have pulled that section aft..donno.

The photo shows the standard mode of flange breakage - fatigue cracks will form perpendicular to the spoke direction. The reason is simple: Metal fatigue only occurs in tension. The metal local to where the spoke presses against the edge of the flange hole will be in compression, whereas the metal on the sides of the flange perpendicular to the spoke will be in tension. Thus, the cracks are most likely to form perpendicular to the spoke direction.

But I doubt because the wheel was 'overtensioned'.

'Overtensioning' is a mostly imaginary boogeyman in most wheel fatigue cracks. Fatigue cracks are the result of many, many load cycles - the wheel components undergo one load cycle per revolution, and a wheel revolves a million times in 1300 miles. In high cycle loading the static tension plays only a small role in the fatigue - the factor is the size of the load cycles, not the size of the static load.

[ctcyclistbob]

Was that broken hub laced more than once with different patterns?

What are the indentations below each spoke hole on the outside of the flange, or is that 'normal'?

[thwart]

Was that broken hub laced more than once with different patterns?

What are the indentations below each spoke hole on the outside of the flange, or is that 'normal'?

That is normal for Campy Record hubs. I assume they're machined that way to facilitate spoke lacing... ?

[exapkib]

I really appreciate the good information here--I'll check for cracks at the flanges--if there is anything else I should watch out for, please let me know.

Thanks again!

[thwart]

I really appreciate the good information here--I'll check for cracks at the flanges--if there is anything else I should watch out for, please let me know.

Thanks again!

Well... you can tell from the pics the rear hub has been laced up at least twice, and the person who laced them up this time unfortunately did not follow the previous pattern. Generally this is frowned upon, as it's thought to increase the chance of flange breakage.

My experience, though not nearly as long or frequent as Old Spud's, is that these are generally durable hubs and will likely stand up to this 'abuse'.

[Mark McM]

Well... you can tell from the pics the rear hub has been laced up at least twice, and the person who laced them up this time unfortunately did not follow the previous pattern. Generally this is frowned upon, as it's thought to increase the chance of flange breakage.

Why do you say this? I see no indication of a second set of indentations around the spoke holes - only the single set that showed the trailing spokes were laced elbows out.

[thwart]

Why do you say this? I see no indication of a second set of indentations around the spoke holes - only the single set that showed the trailing spokes were laced elbows out.

I'm certainly no expert, but those tell-tale linear abrasions (near the edge of the flange) are almost certainly from the previous lacing.

[Mark McM]

I'm certainly no expert, but those tell-tale linear abrasions (near the edge of the flange) are almost certainly from the previous lacing.

I'm not seeing the linear abrasions you are referring too. The only evidence I see of prior lacing are the elbow indentations on trailing edge of every other spoke hole caused by head-in trailing spokes. I don't see any other elbow indentations on the spoke holes leading in any other direction, indicative of lacing in the opposite direction.

[m_sasso]

I am not seeing multiple signs also, looks to be a single pattern on that hub however could have been laced multiple times consistent pattern.

[beeatnik]

I'm not seeing the linear abrasions you are referring too. The only evidence I see of prior lacing are the elbow indentations on trailing edge of every other spoke hole caused by head-in trailing spokes. I don't see any other elbow indentations on the spoke holes leading in any other direction, indicative of lacing in the opposite direction.

most obvious in the third foto and repeating at 135 degrees (counterclockwise) from the preceding/trailing (right of) spoke hole.

Um, best hubs ever.

[thwart]

Um, best hubs ever.

+100.

most obvious in the third foto and repeating at 135 degrees (counterclockwise) from the preceding/trailing (right of) spoke hole.

Exactly. These be them... so to speak.

If you see these, you get to re-lace the wheel you just finished lacing up (been there, done that :crap: ).

[oldpotatoe]

+100.



Exactly. These be them... so to speak.

If you see these, you get to re-lace the wheel you just finished lacing up (been there, done that :crap: ).

Looks like a 'mirror image' previous lace..Outside pulling RH, inside pulling left hand. I don't do that, swap directions but on the non drive side rear, since the tension is so low, not really a huge deal.

[thwart]

Looks like a 'mirror image' previous lace..Outside pulling RH, inside pulling left hand. I don't do that, swap directions but on the non drive side rear, since the tension is so low, not really a huge deal.

If you look closely, the drive-side flange has the same marks.

You know tons more about this stuff than yours truly... but it does indicate that these hubs have been laced at least twice, and that the last 'wheel builder' wasn't as careful as you are.

[exapkib]

I love learning new things--how concerned would you be to use these hubs yourself? I'm really excited at having found them at what I considered a very reasonable price, but at a certain point safety overrules saving. Is something like this approaching that breaking point?

Looks like a 'mirror image' previous lace..Outside pulling RH, inside pulling left hand. I don't do that, swap directions but on the non drive side rear, since the tension is so low, not really a huge deal.

[oldpotatoe]

I love learning new things--how concerned would you be to use these hubs yourself? I'm really excited at having found them at what I considered a very reasonable price, but at a certain point safety overrules saving. Is something like this approaching that breaking point?

No, use 'em.

[exapkib]

No, use 'em.

. . . and that may be the best news I get today.

Thanks!

[Mackers]

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[Mark McM]

most obvious in the third foto and repeating at 135 degrees (counterclockwise) from the preceding/trailing (right of) spoke hole.

Oh ok, I mistakenly thought you were referring to the picture of the broken flange. The broken flange was laced in only one orientation, but the wheels in the classified ad clearly were re-laced in a different orientation.

In my experience, re-lacing a wheel in the opposite direction will only slightly increase the chances of flange breakage. Since flange breakage is not common to begin with, I wouldn't be concerned about using a wheel which had been re-laced in the opposite direction.

[exapkib]

Picked up the wheels this evening--they look much better in person than in the photos. Can't believe how lucky I was to come across these wheels.

Should have it road-ready later this week. For now, here's where we stand:

http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o641/1zaxxon/IMG_9401_zps6hsl1kfp.jpg (http://s1336.photobucket.com/user/1zaxxon/media/IMG_9401_zps6hsl1kfp.jpg.html)

The rims are Mavic A119--really wide and heavy. They feel like they should be completely invincible. Probably overkill for this bike, but they'll certainly do the trick for the time being.