How do you set your handlebar?

[colker]

I read about riders that won´t ride in the drops and i am sure it´s because the bars are rotated upwards.
Set your bars so that the end flats are level w/ the ground or your top tube if it´s horizontal. Next place levers so it´s tip is level w/ the flats. If your hbars are set like this, you move easily from hoods to drops without any change in your back. You will move your ass back in the saddle and gain more power but you won´t force your back. That´s my experience.

[cachagua]

I don't know if that works for everybody. For me, if the end flats are level with the ground, they rotate my wrists to an uncomfortable position, and if I let my wrists go to a neutral position the bars point downward, in a general direction between the rear brake and the rear derailleur.

I usually like the tops really level, and the brake hoods just about level too. But on most bars, again, this points the ends down.

I suspect there's a lot of individual variation at play here both in people and in handlebars. No wrong way to do it, as long as you enjoy riding.

EDIT: went and looked at my bikes, they're all over the map. So much for consistency.

[Steve in SLO]

Suspect the reason a lot of people don't ride in the drops is because it is so comfortable to ride on today's ergonomic hoods, and because many people are riding bikes that have more drop than they can comfortably ride in the lower positions.
Back in the day (70s) I was taught to point the end of the drops directly towards the rear brake, and that worked well for riding in the drops. Of course most people rode a lot less drop back then.

[colker]

Suspect the reason a lot of people don't ride in the drops is because it is so comfortable to ride on today's ergonomic hoods, and because many people are riding bikes that have more drop than they can comfortably ride in the lower positions.
Back in the day (70s) I was taught to point the end of the drops directly towards the rear brake, and that worked well for riding in the drops. Of course most people rode a lot less drop back then.

You have way more control in the drops. Cornering while holding the hoods is flimsy. And power.. you can move up 2 gears easily in the drops.

[zap]

Pretty much pointed (straight ends) to the rear brakes.

But I like bars with "ergo" bends that are just right, around 30-35 degrees. That's where I put my hands when hammering on the flats or for out of saddle work. Drop needs to be decent as well........140 or more. Bar top transition to hoods needs to be fairly flat so that I can do a hard tempo with hands on hoods with forearms flat.

I posted this here before, Thomson road bars are excellent with Campy 11 hoods......hoods mounted per Campy spec.

[OtayBW]

Bars are different, and so are reach requirements and dynamics with different shifters and different bikes. I set them appropriately for each case. No formula. :hello:

[Cicli]

I set them so they are comfortable. About 10cm in front of the fork/stem connection.

[colker]

I set them so they are comfortable. About 10cm in front of the fork/stem connection.

Nice. So.. do you corner comfortably on the hoods or comfortably in the drops?

[colker]

Bars are different, and so are reach requirements and dynamics with different shifters and different bikes. I set them appropriately for each case. No formula. :hello:

What´s the difference between a formula and an apropriate manner? :D

[Cicli]

Nice. So.. do you corner comfortably on the hoods or comfortably in the drops?

I shoot for both. I like a shallow 120 drop. Alows me to use the drops even with poor form. ;) I dont ride agressively. Just use the drops to get out of the wind a bit.

[shovelhd]

I read about riders that won´t ride in the drops and i am sure it´s because the bars are rotated upwards.
Set your bars so that the end flats are level w/ the ground or your top tube if it´s horizontal. Next place levers so it´s tip is level w/ the flats. If your hbars are set like this, you move easily from hoods to drops without any change in your back. You will move your ass back in the saddle and gain more power but you won´t force your back. That´s my experience.

Your experience does not translate to everyone. I prefer to set my bar tops flat, parallel with the saddle/ground, and have the drops angled down for best grip in the sprint position. I make more power in the drops because I trained hard in that position and worked on flexibility. Not everyone just "moves their ass back" and makes more power in the drops. In fact, I'd say that most people do not make more power in the drops (barring those with stacks of spacers that raise the bars way up). Swiveling your bars won't magically make it happen.

[OtayBW]

What´s the difference between a formula and an apropriate manner? :D
Correct fit.

[weisan]

>>How do you set your handlebar?

The way I want it.

[fuzzalow]

The bars are just the endpoint for how you've set your beginning.

The beginning is set by how you've set your bars.

[booglebug]

Since I'm reaching forward to grip the drops, my hands are comfortable at a slight angle so I set the bars at an angle to accommodate. 90 degrees requires rotating the front of the hand down for me, puts unnecessary pressure on my wrist but I'm old with less bar drop. I think bar drop has a lot to do with angle.

[Matthew]

I set mine at a slight angle too. Just seems a more natural fit for me.

[regularguy412]

I have a more stretched out (upper body attempt to be horizontal) position and I prefer to sort of 'reach' for the hoods/bars. I have a proportionally short torso compared to my leg length and arm length, so I prefer to try to get my elbows out of the way of my knees when I'm in the drops.

This has led me to use ergo bars. I prefer to have a slight angle down for the flat ramps to the hoods. Not too much, but to the point where when I'm on the hoods -- I sort of get to rest my whole wrist/side of hand area on the hood/ramp interface. This helps distribute the load and helps me avoid ulnar numbness in my pinky and ring fingers.

I actually feel like I have more power in this position --- sort of an old-fashioned pursuiters position (pre-aerobar era).

When I'm in the drops, my hands (fists) are facing somewhat forward in the ergo flat of the hook, not on the flat that projects rearward. I only use the full rear-facing drop of the flat bottom of the hooks when sprinting out of the saddle.

I prefer to use Cinelli Solida bars, but since they're no longer made, I've gotten used to Dimension Double Groove bars -- even though the drop on the Dimension bars is a bit more than I prefer. Just double wrap the bottom flat up to the lever to help take up some of the extra drop.

Mike in AR:beer:

[Lewis Moon]

You have way more control in the drops. Cornering while holding the hoods is flimsy. And power.. you can move up 2 gears easily in the drops.

This is why 'cross riders always ride in the drops.

[fogrider]

we should all set up our handlebars the same!

[Macadamia]

flipped completely back, I don't get why people would ride bikes all hunched over like that also my next court date is June

[colker]

This is why 'cross riders always ride in the drops.

Cross is different from road riding.

[colker]

Correct fit.
.. if there is a place for formulas is bike fit.

[colker]

I like this set up from Fuzzalow. I would move the levers up a bit. I look at this bike and know the rider is fast and corners safe. I can follow this guy on a paceline.

[oldpotatoe]

The bars are just the endpoint for how you've set your beginning.

The beginning is set by how you've set your bars.

Of course. In the shop we pointed the ends of the hbars at the brake bridge and lever tops aligned with hbar flats. THEN did the fit, no bar tape and adjust accordingly. IF the hbars are tilted way up, methinks the frame 'may' be too big, handlebars too low in relation to saddle.

[colker]

Of course. In the shop we pointed the ends of the hbars at the brake bridge and lever tops aligned with hbar flats. THEN did the fit, no bar tape and adjust accordingly. IF the hbars are tilted way up, methinks the frame 'may' be too big, handlebars too low in relation to saddle.

I agree. If the levers point skyward like in that photo the rider will brake w/ hands over hoods and have less leverage, less pressure.
Next he needs discs because rim brakes are "not good enough".
When things get fast and close you need to brake from the drops.
Also, when you move the bars up you extend the reach so your weight will distribute w/a forward bias on the bike. NOt the best handling or comfort.
There is a right and safe way to ride a road bike.

[colker]

The bars are just the endpoint for how you've set your beginning.

The beginning is set by how you've set your bars.

Bingo.:beer:

[OtayBW]

.. if there is a place for formulas is bike fit.
No, not really. Blanket use of formulas without adapting to the specific situation makes about as much sense as using only the formula of (0.883 x inseam length) to set your saddle height and then wondering why your hips are rocking all over the place or you have no power.

[colker]

No, not really. Blanket use of formulas without adapting to the specific situation makes about as much sense as using only the formula of (0.883 x inseam length) to set your saddle height and then wondering why your hips are rocking all over the place or you have no power.

You still use formulas or logic to set bike fit which is more than finding a frame size. It´s about weight distrbution.
A handlebar set up is about weight distribution more than about comfort or aesthethics. Aesthethics and good form is a sign of proper function only. Everything in set up is about function. A set up that is comfortable for one position and won´t let you use another position, like braking from the drops, is not safe therefore is wrong.
You want to be able to ride in the hoods, tops and drops comfortably.

[fuzzalow]

Correct fit.

Yes agree. That fundamental achievement is the basis of all potential goodness waiting to be untapped from a racebike.

I look at this bike and know the rider is fast and corners safe. I can follow this guy on a paceline.

Thanks for the kind words and you are gracious and generous for your use of the word "fast" as an adjective. It is all relative.

As the topic of cornering was raised, I'd like to share that IMO the key to stable, cornering out of a racebike is simply a fit & position that does not transfer weight into the hands. If weight is put into the hands then the bike becomes twitchy because the rider uses core to steer the bike, the bars & headset are not weight bearing devices on a bike and riding this way smothers the inherent stability of a bikes steering geometry. You ride a racebike with a light touch which lets the front end track which lets the bike run. In essence, once you've initiated the counter steer and set the turning bank in a bike, it just glides through the corner.

Yes, I know I sound like a broken record on this topic. But I often feel a responsibility to speak up because there is a tendency for topics like this to get into angles and degrees of headtube angle, trail, fork rake and stem length which has very little to do with how a racebike is ridden well. My emphasis is always on the rider skills and not on the bike and hardware.

[colker]

Proper:

[fourflys]

and because many people are riding bikes that have more drop than they can comfortably ride in the lower positions.


I'd say that's the main reason... something about pride IMHO, thankfully I'm past that... ;) I'm a big fan of "a fistful of seatpost" and almost level bars for the riding I do...

[colker]

Yes agree. That fundamental achievement is the basis of all potential goodness waiting to be untapped from a racebike.



Thanks for the kind words and you are gracious and generous for your use of the word "fast" as an adjective. It is all relative.

As the topic of cornering was raised, I'd like to share that IMO the key to stable, cornering out of a racebike is simply a fit & position that does not transfer weight into the hands. If weight is put into the hands then the bike becomes twitchy because the rider uses core to steer the bike, the bars & headset are not weight bearing devices on a bike and riding this way smothers the inherent stability of a bikes steering geometry. You ride a racebike with a light touch which lets the front end track which lets the bike run. In essence, once you've initiated the counter steer and set the turning bank in a bike, it just glides through the corner.

Yes, I know I sound like a broken record on this topic. But I often feel a responsibility to speak up because there is a tendency for topics like this to get into angles and degrees of headtube angle, trail, fork rake and stem length which has very little to do with how a racebike is ridden well. My emphasis is always on the rider skills and not on the bike and hardware.

Yes. The bike must flow under and your arms are just absorbing trepidation from the front wheel: you feel the ground and maybe correct a line. A good bike lets you correct a line even when just leaving the critical corner point.
When i say comfort on the bike it´s not sofa comfort: it´s having full control and letting the bike move under you. It´s a hard sport, not chess..
Pressure on the bar only when climbing steep inclines or sprinting and you want to use your upper body.

[colker]

I'd say that's the main reason... something about pride IMHO, thankfully I'm past that... ;) I'm a big fan of "a fistful of seatpost" and almost level bars for the riding I do...

And i find bikes set up like yours prettier than showing too much seatpost. Like Bugno´s bike.

[Cicli]

I'd say that's the main reason... something about pride IMHO, thankfully I'm past that... ;) I'm a big fan of "a fistful of seatpost" and almost level bars for the riding I do...

Yep, that same setup works very well for me.

[OtayBW]

You still use formulas or logic to set bike fit which is more than finding a frame size. It´s about weight distrbution.
A handlebar set up is about weight distribution more than about comfort or aesthethics. Aesthethics and good form is a sign of proper function only. Everything in set up is about function. A set up that is comfortable for one position and won´t let you use another position, like braking from the drops, is not safe therefore is wrong.
You want to be able to ride in the hoods, tops and drops comfortably.
OK - like I told you, it is an iterative process that I work through over time. I start by trying to match the slope of the drops to a sigmoidal shape pointing toward the rear brake cable barrel adjuster:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j42/zelmo_2006/HandlebarFormula_1.gif

Have fun with this. I'm going riding.

[charliedid]

we should all set up our handlebars the same!

I know, that would be awesome!

[charliedid]

flipped completely back, I don't get why people would ride bikes all hunched over like that also my next court date is June

"Key West Style" nice!

[djdj]

Of course. In the shop we pointed the ends of the hbars at the brake bridge and lever tops aligned with hbar flats. THEN did the fit, no bar tape and adjust accordingly. IF the hbars are tilted way up, methinks the frame 'may' be too big, handlebars too low in relation to saddle.

Those bars are in fact pointed at the [front] brake bridge. :banana:

[R3awak3n]

this is how I set up my compact bars

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2017/02/03/20170113-6p6a5929-untitled-1486135713733-dvs1qek5ndzq-1260-80.jpg

drops not parallel to the ground but pretty close. Works for me, always has. I don't go on the drops all that much but sometimes. I am not fast and that is ok

[Tandem Rider]

this is how I set up my compact bars

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2017/02/03/20170113-6p6a5929-untitled-1486135713733-dvs1qek5ndzq-1260-80.jpg

drops not parallel to the ground but pretty close. Works for me, always has. I don't go on the drops all that much but sometimes. I am not fast and that is ok

Interesting, instead of pointing them at where a "normal" brake bridge would be if you had one, you appear to have chosen a very accurate method of pointing them at the valve stem. :D:cool:
Ducking and ducking out for a ride.;)

[colker]

Looks good. Compact bars take away some frame of reference just like compact frames and aheadsets took away some of the sizing references so you change method.

[fourflys]

I should have added above that I know a lot of drop works for some folks, so it's all good... I do think some folks sacrifice comfort or usability for style points though... but, whatever works for you I guess! :D

[carpediemracing]

I have my bars not quite level. On older bars I pointed the bars just below level (the bottom part) but since I cut off as much as possible it looked like the bars were pointing down more than they were.

Also when I need to make more power I scoot forward. If I scoot back on the saddle I lose power. I gain torque but lose rpm, resulting in a net loss of power. Perceived power goes through the roof, of course, but on the powermeter it's very obvious that I'm dropping significant power. I'll scoot back on the saddle when I need to make long efforts with each leg so I can rest the other leg, like on really steep hills.

Old bars, before the red paint and shorter stays:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TbmplkIYLx8/TUNoxgcgUeI/AAAAAAAADH4/z9M9JEr7LDg/s800/TsunamiOne_with_Two.jpg

Same frame but with compact bars (and short stays and red paint):
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c0lZp-NXLJU/WHcSAdpE2dI/AAAAAAAAJeo/-TbsI463Nk4te7SgM_aQFEpFM2hBRIN_gCLcB/s800/0607161858a.jpg

[bironi]

By tightening 1, 2 or 4 bolts to your taste.

[colker]

By tightening 1, 2 or 4 bolts to your taste.

Lever pointing skyward alert.

[colker]

I have my bars not quite level. On older bars I pointed the bars just below level (the bottom part) but since I cut off as much as possible it looked like the bars were pointing down more than they were.

Also when I need to make more power I scoot forward. If I scoot back on the saddle I lose power. I gain torque but lose rpm, resulting in a net loss of power. Perceived power goes through the roof, of course, but on the powermeter it's very obvious that I'm dropping significant power. I'll scoot back on the saddle when I need to make long efforts with each leg so I can rest the other leg, like on really steep hills.

Old bars, before the red paint and shorter stays:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TbmplkIYLx8/TUNoxgcgUeI/AAAAAAAADH4/z9M9JEr7LDg/s800/TsunamiOne_with_Two.jpg



Same frame but with compact bars (and short stays and red paint):
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c0lZp-NXLJU/WHcSAdpE2dI/AAAAAAAAJeo/-TbsI463Nk4te7SgM_aQFEpFM2hBRIN_gCLcB/s800/0607161858a.jpg

good unnorthodox set up.

[bironi]

Lever pointing skyward alert.

Don't let the lever get you excited. Are you racing for post points?

[colker]

Don't let the lever get you excited. Are you racing for post points?

I only get excited when i find nice human beings w/ a great heart and believe me.. i find them: here and everywhere so don´t worry, you are safe, I am not interested.

Old and homophobic is not cool anymore.

[AJosiahK]

Proper fit is the best

I use (along with my old LBS) an angle finder to set the drops first, usually at 5 or 10 deg, usually 5. Then depending on the rider and type of bike I set the hoods. No games just accurate settings and replicable too. I always keep notes of setups and changes of all my bikes.

[weisan]

Thank nice human beings w/ a great heart...

colker pal, are you one of those nice human beings w/ a great heart?
:D

[colker]

Thank

colker pal, are you one of those nice human beings w/ a great heart?
:D

It´s up to others to decide. Isn´t it?

[weisan]

It´s up to others to decide. Isn´t it?
Not really... Our response is our responsibility.
We embrace you no matter what... welcome to our little community of pals. You sounded very knowledgeable, I look forward to learning more from you. It doesn't mean I will agree with you every time but I promise to listen first...and then make up my own mind. Just remember, some of us here are not looking to you to validate our existence.

[Mzilliox]

i guess ill respond to this thread. i like my bars in front of me usually.
on one bike i have one set of bars and on another bike the bars are different. the drops are never parallel to the ground but close. so the hoods are in different spots, but similar. if drops are parallel they put my wrist in a bad position. i like both setups just fine. and i may try compact bars next.

im riding the drops more all the time, so i set my bar height for that purpose. i want to feel good in the drops but relax a bit more on the tops or hoods. so i set up my hoods pretty neutral. i can easily take my hands from the bars and hold the position either in drops or hoods, so i think they are setup ok. they require just the lightest of touch. i don't like braking in the drops very much. and i don't like riding around cars in drops.

the light touch setup is especially nice on gravel.

[colker]

Proper fit is the best

I use (along with my old LBS) an angle finder to set the drops first, usually at 5 or 10 deg, usually 5. Then depending on the rider and type of bike I set the hoods. No games just accurate settings and replicable too. I always keep notes of setups and changes of all my bikes.

You got it.:beer:

[colker]

i guess ill respond to this thread. i like my bars in front of me usually.
on one bike i have one set of bars and on another bike the bars are different. the drops are never parallel to the ground but close. so the hoods are in different spots, but similar. if drops are parallel they put my wrist in a bad position. i like both setups just fine. and i may try compact bars next.

im riding the drops more all the time, so i set my bar height for that purpose. i want to feel good in the drops but relax a bit more on the tops or hoods. so i set up my hoods pretty neutral. i can easily take my hands from the bars and hold the position either in drops or hoods, so i think they are setup ok. they require just the lightest of touch. i don't like braking in the drops very much. and i don't like riding around cars in drops.

the light touch setup is especially nice on gravel.

I always looked at the set ups from riders like Bugno trying to understand why they had the end flats parallel to ground. I tried and found i can move much quicker from the hoods to the drops w/ out extending my back w/ the old set up.
I find i have more control when braking while i am in the drops. Also, cornering w/ more punch and speed..

[Big Dan]

This guy is an expert on bikes.
Listen to him or else.

[colker]

This guy is an expert on bikes.
Listen to him or else.

At least i am not a smartasshole, an e bully. Right dan?

[AngryScientist]

At least i am not an asshole, an e bully. Right Dan?

watch it. the both of you.

talking about handlebar set-up certainly is not something that should be taken so personally. its just bikes, ya-no?

[Big Dan]

At least i am not a smartasshole, an e bully. Right dan?

Bully me. Why?
Let people ride the way they want to ride.
Pointy levers and all.
Bugno? come on.
That was a long time ago, can't expect 50+ riders to set up bikes like him.

[weisan]

Eddy Merckx...then.

http://l7.alamy.com/zooms/ef6fb7e819714b669ed582c47954f7da/sep-09-1971-another-title-for-eddy-merckx-eddy-merckx-the-famous-belgian-e0yx88.jpg

Eddy Merckx...now.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3900/14255474057_f0c976d0b6_c.jpg

[colker]

Eddy Merckx...then.

http://l7.alamy.com/zooms/ef6fb7e819714b669ed582c47954f7da/sep-09-1971-another-title-for-eddy-merckx-eddy-merckx-the-famous-belgian-e0yx88.jpg

Eddy Merckx...now.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3900/14255474057_f0c976d0b6_c.jpg

Good call.

[weisan]

My french hero....

[fuzzalow]

colker-pal, I say this with all sincerity and you are free to dispense with it as you see fit...

If you wanna try to help people out, just lay out your help and let people see and take the help as they see fit.

Build your own credibility over time in what you say. The regular readers of this forum are a very savvy bunch and they will judge you on what you write. And you may well be open to other's criticism on what you write - that comes with the turf if you desire to make a difference in creating content.

Don't DK (Dunning-Kruger). If you can't explain why and what you espouse you will run into a credibility gap for what you say you think you know but are never able to convince readers that you can explain it. Larry Ellison of Oracle was scathing when recalling his experience in the Chicago public school growing up - that the teachers thought they taught but couldn't explain anything.

If you wanna help others, your job is not to convince acceptance in the form of winning arguments. You will be seen not as offering help but seeking recognition for yourself and/or acquiesce of others.

You can't make everybody happy. Some will dislike what you do for any myriad of reasons. Dontworryboudit.

Keep it positive. Doing that takes far more than just wallowing in the negative end of the human pool.

[colker]

My french hero....

I am not young by any means and i feel better w/ the 1970s set up.

[happycampyer]

<snip>
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3900/14255474057_f0c976d0b6_c.jpgSomeone should tell that guy that his levers are all wrong. Probably slow and can't corner fs. Would definitely not follow that fat old man in a paceline--from the position of his hoods, he probably can't even hold a straight line.

[chiasticon]

This is why 'cross riders always ride in the drops.they absolutely do not. watch any pro euro cross race and the only time you'll see them in the drops is on the (paved) finishing straight or on super sketchy descents. there are some outliers, of course, but they generally just don't ride in the drops much at all. (edit: having read further in this thread, maybe you were being sarcastic? :p)

I started setting up my bars with the bar bottom mostly level to the ground (slightly rotated back) and levers rotated back a decent bit. this setup just worked better for cross and later I tried translating it to my road bike and liked it. I think it's a mixture of just getting used to it and that's how the size of bikes I fit best work with me. riding in the drops is comfortable but the levers are tilted back enough that if I were using something like Campy shifters, I'd prolly have a hard time hitting the thumb shifter. however, when in the drops, it's usually just because I'm descending or I'm fighting the wind. I don't shift too much from there.

[OtayBW]

Someone should tell that guy that his levers are all wrong. Probably slow and can't corner fs. Would definitely not follow that fat old man in a paceline--from the position of his hoods, he probably can't even hold a straight line.
Hee hee! :D

[fuzzalow]

I am not young by any means and i feel better w/ the 1970s set up.

I respectfully do not agree if you are implying that riding EuroPro can only be done by the young. Destroying the spinal discs improperly riding a racebike can happen at any age as easily as riding correctly can have someone EuroPro-ing as a septuagenarian.

It was always my view that the mythical elderly Italian gentleman that was still riding in the style of the EuroPro was indeed not a myth. And IMO it is a reality.

I'm not telling anybody my age 'cos that's nun-ya but I survived college expenses for my family and come out alive on the other side.

I've said plenty in your thread. I'll see myself out and see you at the next stop.

[unterhausen]

for most of the riding I do, riding in the drops probably doesn't make much sense. I've been working on the trainer a lot,and I've noticed my flexibility really got a lot better as a result. So I can ride in the drops all I want. But my stem isn't quite slammed on most of my bikes. I also noticed it's a little harder for me to maintain a higher cadence while in the drops.

I subscribe to the idea that the slammed stem folks mostly can't ride in their drops for long. However, most of them can drop me while they are riding no-handed, so I'm not the one to judge.

I did a season of randonneuring using late '70s-era Campagnolo Record levers, and the new hood shapes are definitely one of the few advances in cycling that make a big difference in comfort. The pictures in this thread of the '70s and '80s racers just make me feel uncomfortable. I know they rode on the hoods occasionally.

Those two pictures of EM seem to show that his bars are pretty close to slammed in the modern picture. However, it also doesn't look like he has all that much seatpost showing. In the old picture, his stem wasn't all the way down. So I'm guessing that he is in a pretty similar position on the two bikes. He's got a much bigger gut now, so I'm sure his position isn't as low.