Real difference between Shimano RS505 and ST-R685 hydro levers

[DRZRM]

So, I'm expecting a new disc brake gravel bike in the spring, and am keeping an eye out for a group. Came across CC sale on 105 level hydro levers with direct mount brakes for ~$250 :eek:

I'd planned on using Ultegra level ST-R685 (unless Campy actually gets its wet brakes out and they don't cost a fortune, neither seems very likely). For those who have used these, is there much of a difference? I know its a pretty subjective question, but it's winter...even on sale the Ultegra stuff is twice as expensive. I hear great things about 105, is there any good reason to avoid it? Is there anyone running 105 level hydraulic brakes who regrets not going more upscale?

Thanks for any advice.

These (http://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-rs505-hydraulic-sti-levers-disc-brake-calipers-set?skidn=SHI00E4-SET-FROANDREA&ti=UExQIENhdDpCaWtlIFNoaWZ0ZXJzOjE6MTA6Y2NDYXQxMDA 0OTk=) vs. These (http://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-rs685-hydraulic-sti-levers-disc-brake-calipers-set?skidn=SHI007O-SET-FROANDREA&ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6Njg1OjE6Mjo2ODU=).

[benb]

The 105 levers are really really ugly in person, that's the only thing I can say!

They actually look like they would be really comfortable for me though, they look like they are one of the longest hoods on the market, lots of room for big hands.

See if you can try them both, the feel seems pretty different.

[Davist]

I have the 505s, came stock on my Scott Gravel bike, no complaints.

Some comments: The stroke (my first disc brakes) has a bit of a dead band in it, I've heard this is common across all, presume it's part of the learning curve, no issue with modulation or power. The hoods are BIG, you can get out in the sphinx position if need be (aerogravel like that 3t bike :D), the tops of my bars as spec'd are swept back a bit a la randonneur style. The reservoir or something is located by the pad/heel of your thumb, some reviewers have complained about it, I didn't notice at all. Shifting action is a bit lighter than my other 105 5700, not a complaint, just a comment. Shift adjustment is easy, infrequent and solid.

Highly recommend. ~1500 miles so far. :beer:

[DRZRM]

Davist, so what do you mean "dead band"? Is it there with MTB disc brakes too? Is it a delay between lever and brake engagement.

benb I can see liking the looks of the Ultegra:

http://content.competitivecyclist.com/images/items/1200/SHI/SHI007O/SET.jpg

over the 105:

http://content.competitivecyclist.com/images/items/large/SHI/SHI00E4/SET_D1.jpg

but I'm not sure it is worth paying twice the price.

I can only imagine what the Campagnolo pricing is going to look like when introduced, and I don't want to be waiting to build a bike on some group that can be delayed, nor am I sure I want to be a guinea pig for their new tech...remember Campy MTB groups?

Hmmm.


I have the 505s, came stock on my Scott Gravel bike, no complaints.

Some comments: The stroke (my first disc brakes) has a bit of a dead band in it, I've heard this is common across all, presume it's part of the learning curve, no issue with modulation or power. The hoods are BIG, you can get out in the sphinx position if need be (aerogravel like that 3t bike :D), the tops of my bars as spec'd are swept back a bit a la randonneur style. The reservoir or something is located by the pad/heel of your thumb, some reviewers have complained about it, I didn't notice at all. Shifting action is a bit lighter than my other 105 5700, not a complaint, just a comment. Shift adjustment is easy, infrequent and solid.

Highly recommend. ~1500 miles so far. :beer:

[FlashUNC]

The fit and finish on the RS505s is noticeably different. They feel cheap. They look cheap. Functional? Probably, sure.

But that hood bulge is awful.

[Davist]

[QUOTE=DRZRM;2127699]Davist, so what do you mean "dead band"? Is it there with MTB disc brakes too? Is it a delay between lever and brake engagement.

No, not a delay, just about 1/3 of the pull is free travel, then the brakes engage. When you pull a standard brake, (I'm theorizing here) the return spring offers some resistance/push back prior to hitting the rim, I think that this is all it is. I run my rim brakes fairly tight, so I may notice more.

[commonguy001]

There is also the 685 levers if you don't want to go Di2.
I've used them and while big are pretty comfortable and don't look odd IMO. I find the lever action perfectly fine both braking and shifting. Saying that I also really like SRAM hydros... they're funky looking but not big and super comfortable.

[benb]

[QUOTE=DRZRM;2127699]Davist, so what do you mean "dead band"? Is it there with MTB disc brakes too? Is it a delay between lever and brake engagement.

No, not a delay, just about 1/3 of the pull is free travel, then the brakes engage. When you pull a standard brake, (I'm theorizing here) the return spring offers some resistance/push back prior to hitting the rim, I think that this is all it is. I run my rim brakes fairly tight, so I may notice more.

The Ultegra ones have this too don't they? It's been over a year since I tried any of the Shimano hydro setups, the ones I tried back then had this noticeable dead zone.

The dead area is disappointing IMO, it's very noticeable and IMO annoying compared to my main point of comparison, which is the Hayes brakes I have on my MTB. None of the hydraulic MTB brakes I've ever owned have had such a big dead zone.

That said, if you told me all the Shimano brakes I've tried have setup issues maybe I'd believe you. Unfortunate if true. The MTB setups I've installed myself pretty much came out of the box, got bolted on, and worked just about flawlessly, no need to bleed them, just have to align the calipers, which was easy.

I am not really going to buy any argument that "dead zone" is acceptable, we'd never accept it on a car or motorcycle, it doesn't seem to be an issue on MTBs, I don't see any reason it makes any sense on a road bike.

[DRZRM]

You are totally right, I didn't mean 785, I meant 685, I want hydro brakes with mechanical shifters, thanks. I'll switch the pic and title...though they are still twice as expensive as the 505 levers.

There is also the 685 levers if you don't want to go Di2.
I've used them and while big are pretty comfortable and don't look odd IMO. I find the lever action perfectly fine both braking and shifting. Saying that I also really like SRAM hydros... they're funky looking but not big and super comfortable.

[commonguy001]

You are totally right, I didn't mean 785, I meant 685, I want hydro brakes with mechanical shifters, thanks. I'll switch the pic and title...though they are still twice as expensive as the 505 levers.

My set is not being used since I swapped my Warbird over to 1x

They have around 1000 miles on the brakes/shifters and were set up on a 58cm frame. If you're interested shoot me a PM and I could save you a good chunk over new. Only reason they're not still on the bike is I wanted to try 1x

[DRZRM]

No, not a delay, just about 1/3 of the pull is free travel, then the brakes engage. When you pull a standard brake, (I'm theorizing here) the return spring offers some resistance/push back prior to hitting the rim, I think that this is all it is. I run my rim brakes fairly tight, so I may notice more.

Got it thanks!! Commonguy001, I PMed you.

[RudAwkning]

[QUOTE=DRZRM;2127699]Davist, so what do you mean "dead band"? Is it there with MTB disc brakes too? Is it a delay between lever and brake engagement.

No, not a delay, just about 1/3 of the pull is free travel, then the brakes engage. When you pull a standard brake, (I'm theorizing here) the return spring offers some resistance/push back prior to hitting the rim, I think that this is all it is. I run my rim brakes fairly tight, so I may notice more.

There should be a "free-stroke" or "bite point" adjustment screw on the 685 lever. Try tweaking that.

[zzy]

The 505/105 STIs have a very annoying bump on the hoods that I personally find very uncomfortable. Not surprised they're being cleared out. So ugly. But they do work fine.

[ColonelJLloyd]

This is why I've spec'd cable actuated hydraulic calipers on my disc bike. I like a handlebar with more reach than the modern 75-85mm and these are a marked departure from the integrated shifters I'm used to. Standard mechanical cable levers are just the best option for me and my riding. This is to say nothing of the Shimano hydro levers aesthetically; that's subjective.

[Davist]

When in doubt, take a ride. I don't even notice that dead part of the stroke anymore. I took some pix, first the "bump" then with and without gloves, size L hand:
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