Cantis and Widths; a story of two rims

[TunaAndBikes]

Hello and happy friday all!

I need help figuring out if 1mm in total width (so 0.5mm either side, I assume) would make switching back and forth between wheelsets an pain with cantilevers, and without touching up their adjustment.
Rims in questions would be: RR411 and R460, which are 22 and 23mm, respectively.

Cheers! :beer:

[gpendergast]

Shouldn't be a problem, but this is why these exist

[chiasticon]

it depends on what cantis you have. some of them don't have tension adjusters; which, as noted above, make it easy to change widths. 1mm isn't enough that the pad angle would significantly change. I swapped between 23, 25 and 28mm widths last cross season, without having to undo the cable and re-adjust, nor change pad angles; the tension adjuster was plenty. this was with avid shorty ultimates.

[TunaAndBikes]

I'm running shimano CX70 and haven't found anything satisfying yet.
Option I've found till now is adding Inline Adjusters but i'm not too hot on the idea.
Other option (which i'm unsure is possible) Is tapping the rear brake bridge and adding a barrel adjuster, as i have one on my front hanger.

[zennmotion]

Should be OK, 1mm isn't much unless you adjust your cable so that the shoes are really close to the rims in the first place. Set up for the wider rim, you may notice a little more travel in the lever when you switch but not enough to need an adjustment. This would be even less of an issue with wide-profile cantis like the neo-retros, but even with the low profile Paul Touring model it shouldn't be a problem. Realistically, all cantis require occasional adjustment as the pads wear anyway. Best to adjust the angle of the shoes so that the pads hit the rim at the top of the arc as they swing in with the narrower rim, then they will hit the rim just before the apex of the arc with the wider rim, this will prevent the pads from slipping below the rim as they wear or in particularly nasty conditions (heavy mud, ice/snow etc)

[zennmotion]

I'm running shimano CX70 and haven't found anything satisfying yet.
Option I've found till now is adding Inline Adjusters but i'm not too hot on the idea.
Other option (which i'm unsure is possible) Is tapping the rear brake bridge and adding a barrel adjuster, as i have one on my front hanger.
The problem with the adjuster pictured above on the Paul brake is that the Shimano CX 70 comes with a fixed length straddle cable rather than the plain cable that Paul includes. Not a big deal, you could still use that adjuster but the two halves of the straddle cable would be slightly different lengths. Prolly not a real issue, but it would bug my OCD self.


I've installed these along the top tube, near the seat post, work fine although a little fidgety with cold fingers.

http://harriscyclery.net/product/qbp-mickey-cable-barrel-adjuster-1061.htm

Edit: happy to see my 900th post to be about cantis. I think they're under rated and unfairly maligned. Cantis rule, as do mechanical groupsets and steel forks. Carry on, as you were.

[TunaAndBikes]

http://harriscyclery.net/product/qbp-mickey-cable-barrel-adjuster-1061.htm

Edit: happy to see my 900th post to be about cantis. I think they're under rated and unfairly maligned. Cantis rule, as do mechanical groupsets and steel forks. Carry on, as you were.

And also a solution i'm willing to try!
Also agree on cantis and mechanical groupsets, but hell, i'd have fun on any bike :beer:

[Fatty]

I'm running shimano CX70 and haven't found anything satisfying yet.
Option I've found till now is adding Inline Adjusters but i'm not too hot on the idea.
Other option (which i'm unsure is possible) Is tapping the rear brake bridge and adding a barrel adjuster, as i have one on my front hanger.

I like the inline idea better than tapping out the bridge. Usually not a lot of metal there.

[chiasticon]

I think they're under rated and unfairly maligned. Cantis rule, as do mechanical groupsets and steel forks. Carry on, as you were.couldn't agree more! :beer:

[Gummee]

I typically use an in-line adjuster, but that cable stop adjuster will work too.


i do the same thing: switch between a few different rim profiles, but since I'm lazy, I'll try and use the same wheels on the same bike and just switch bikes depending on conditions.

IOW: B bike has mud wheels on it more often than not.

M

[oldpotatoe]

Edit: happy to see my 900th post to be about cantis. I think they're under rated and unfairly maligned. Cantis rule, as do mechanical groupsets and steel forks. Carry on, as you were.

Of course. Well designed and adjusted cantis(and calipers) work just fine and dandy, in spite of the 'gotta have this!!' marketing out there. A LOT of the new 'bike stuff' is firmly in the 'nice to have' category and some is just plain dumm.

I smile when I see that sunday bike..discs, tapered head tube, sometimes 1by, thru-axle, carbon wheels..for that old guy 30 miler to Lyons, coffee and back.:)