velotel
01-31-2017, 04:19 PM
Two more french dirt gems to add.
Col du Fréjus, 2545 meters (8350 ft), above the upper Maurienne valley. A sublime ride, but hard! The first 3 K is just a road to a ski area, moderate grades, nothing of particular interest. Then the dirt, 9K and 900 vertical meters to the col, average grade 10%. The first 3 K maybe 7-8%, the last 6 K well over 10%. Brutal is the word that leaps to mind. But what a gorgeous place. The last 6 K in alpine basins of flowers, grasses, and stones. One of France’s highest and most beautiful cols, a broad saddle well above timberline. Also the border between France and Italy. Beyond the col is air and more mountains in the distance. Far below the ski town of Bardonecchia. A wonderful ride even if all you do is turn around and ride back down. But there is an enticing option, which I haven’t done yet. A hiking trail drops down through a small cliff then zigs down a steep scree field. Somewhere far below it joins a dirt road. If you’re willing to hike-a-bike, the col isn’t the end. Hopefully this summer, I’ll shoulder the bike, scramble down the trail until I can finally ride again, either on a trail or on a road, rip down into Bardonecchia where my wife will have driven around to the hotel we’ve booked for the night. A glorious adventure for a fat-tired road bike, from Modena over the Col du Fréjus and down into Bardonecchia.
Bellecombe, another glorious and relatively unknown ride out of the upper Maurienne valley, an up and back. Fabulous climb with arresting views on a road that doesn’t go anywhere, just up a mountain. Kicks off in Termignon. A fat one-laner-and-a-half or a tight two-laner. Mostly steep, but the views keep the mind off that. Ends at a large parking area above timberline. From there on the road’s for bikes, hikers, and farmers who have the right to drive on it. Crosses an unnamed col, past a lake, past an auberge where you can eat and drink, down into a valley deep in the Vanoise National Park where the road turns to dirt. Smooth dirt. Rambles up a valley closed in by glacier-clad peaks and rock summits. About as close to wilderness as you’re likely to find in the french Alpes. Ends at an old stone building and from there on it’s single-track that just might be ridable, possibly all the way to Col de la Rocheure at around 2900 meters (9500 ft). A bit crazy calling this a have-to-ride given that it’s for all practical purposes anonymous in the world of cycling but if you’re in the area, do it. A wild mouse ride descent back to Termignon, slams the fun needle right up in the red zone all the way.
A quick summation, in two sections. First rides without dirt, second rides with dirt. The order is not by some rating system, just what pops up in my head. Criteria are scenery, narrow road, twistiness, fun descent. Note these are simply pure rides, either up and backs or loops, not a guide to extended tours.
Without dirt :
Col de l’Iseran, 2770 meters, south side, the road from Lanslebourg. France’s second highest col. I’ve not done Iseran’s north side, the Val d’Isère ski station side. I rarely find ski area roads interesting. From Lanslebourg, wonderful ride, big views, glaciers and high summits, screamer of a descent back down to the Bonneval-sur-Arc, considered one of France’s most beautiful medieval villages. Best to avoid on weekends, too many motorcycles out, all in a rush.
Col du Galibier, south side, either from la Grave or from Monêtier-les-Bains. Both approaches superb except that the road from la Grave goes through a long and disagreeable tunnel just outside the village. A toss-up between the two but I adore the ride from Monêtier. From Lautaret to Galibier is one of my favourite sections of road anywhere in the Alps. A captivating climb and a wildly exhilarating descent. I’m not fond of the climb up the north side of Galibier. The long haul up the valley out of Valloir just seems like a grind. Views high on the north side are superb but it’s still not a climb I dream about. The south side is. A brilliant ride. Best done during the week, not on a weekend.
Col de l’Arpettaz, I love this col. Not well known, even in France. Not high enough for fame at 1581 meters plus it doesn’t go anywhere, just up a beautiful mountain with mind warping views. The north side approach is harder with 43 switchbacks, but south approach is a joy too. If only to be done once in a lifetime, north side up is the call. Skinny road, much of the distance in a magical forest then alpine meadows, excellent views off the col, screaming fun descent no matter which direction you take.
Signal de Bisanne, another little known climb, or was until last year when the TdF touched it, but not the summit. Big puppy, 1930 meters high, around 7 different ways to get to it, and they all end up on the final ramp to the summit, 2 K plus at over 10%. The longest and most interesting way is from Ugine up a small road to Crest-Voland. Steep, narrow road angling up a precipitous hillside of huge trees. The road to Bisanne leaves the road to Crest-Voland maybe a quarter of the way up. Paved but rustic one-laner, not so steep, curls around the mountain, arrives at Bisanne 1500, a small ski station linked to les Saisies. The summit 4 K away, 10% average, 360 degrees views with the mass of Mont Blanc dominating. The descent is killer, down to Col des Saisies, then a small road to Crest-Voland, followed by the road to Ugine, the one the climb kicked off with. An absolute have-to ride yet for whatever reason it’s rarely done.
Col du Joly, from Beaufort, an up and back, a long, delightful ride up a high, wide alpine valley then a sustained, relatively hard 4 K climb to the majestic finale, the col with Mont Blanc dominating the background. Another somewhat unknown col. Little or no traffic. Eighth highest col in Savoie at 1989 meters. Views of Mont Blanc from the col are as good as any you’ll ever achieve on a road bike. A blast of a descent, twisting and diving across the slopes, one-laner road surface hopping around, massive fun. Almost too much fun. Been a few years since I’ve done it and I’m sitting here going man, I really, really need to do that puppy again! I mean it’s only of the best of the best of the best!
Col du Noyer, 1664 meters, crossed by the TdF four times, always from west to east, Saint Disdier to Col de Manse and on to Gap. Noyer makes a brilliant loop, one of the best in the Alps, on small, lightly trafficked roads. Which direction makes little difference. I’ve done it twice clockwise and once partially counterclockwise (stopped by snow closing the col). The east side is the harder climb with the last 2,5 K averaging around 10%. The east side is a delight for the views. Around 60 K for the loop. Like Joly, writing about Noyer makes me think I really, really need to go do that again this year. Been too long and it’s way too good to ignore anymore.
Col du Sabot, Col du Solude both Bourg d’Oisans rides, distinctive characters each with one shared trait, steepness. Sabot at 2100 meters is the only col in the Isère department higher than 2000 meters. An odd road, goes nowhere, onto a ridge where it ends. Nothing there, just the start of a hiking trail, and big views. And the thing is paved! Rustic asphalt but well patched and maintained. Frequently blessed with a varnish of cow bombs and piss. A climb of light and space and sweeping meadows and no one’s there. Never seen another cyclist on it. And as usual, friggin steep. Beautiful but you’re going to have to work to enjoy it.
Col du Solude, 1680 meters, an insane road carved out of vertical rock cliffs with 3 tunnels blasted through the rock. A pure one-laner with occasional wide spots where cars manoeuvre past one another. Not a place for acrophobia. Steep, verging on rudeness in places. But so spectacular that you might not notice your legs being wasted. Tunnel aren’t far off totally black. Without a light sketchy at best. Solude is one of those rides you’ll never forget. This is on the list of rides without dirt even though the last few K to the col are dirt, but such easy dirt you’ll barely even notice. Stunning views down into Bourg d’Oisans and across at the climb to Alpe d’Huez. Intense gravity plunge down the back side with crazy fun carving turns.
Col du Petit Saint Bernard, 2180 meters, on the french/italian border, probably the easiest 2000 plus meter col in France. Road’s a full two-laner and to be avoided on weekends. It’s a have-to because of the views, a constant mountain panorama, especially on the italian side of the col when Mont Blanc becomes visible. Cross the col, drop down into the ski town of La Thuile, have lunch, ride back. A wonderful ride with the italian side serving up a bit more interest in the riding department. The descent on the french side down to Bourg St Maurice a speed run but not eyeball warping.
With dirt :
The Grand Traverse ( what I call it ), Col de l’Arpettaz to Col des Aravis, a ride that for me perfectly defines why I love riding a fat-tired road bike. Stunning climb to Arpettaz followed by 15 K of contouring, climbing, descending dirt and rock road across alpine meadows surrounded by mountain views verging on surreal. Which direction doesn’t matter, they’re both excellent. South to north, Arpettaz to Aravis, is harder.
The High Traverse ( what I call it ) between Col de Chaussy and Col de la Madeleine, direction Chaussy to Madeleine. Another ride defining the joys of riding a fat-tired road bike. Can be done by riding up the Lacets de Montvernier, over Chaussy then down to the junction with the road to Lac du Loup ( Wolf Lake ) or from La Chambre up the road to Madeleine then the road to Montaimont to the junction with the road to Lac du Loup. They’re both good but less vertical with the second option. The road to Lac du Loup is a delight, rustic pavement for 3 K plus then dirt, relatively smooth much of the distance but with some steep, short, technically challenging spots. Fantastic views.
Oulx, Italy to Salbertrand, up through the Forest of Salbertrand on the dirt double-track to Colle Blegier then Strada dell’Assietta to Colle Basset and down to Oulx. Guaranteed to blow all preconceived ideas of what fat-tired road bikes are all about. Fantastic ride but that’s what riding around Oulx and Bardonecchia is pretty much all about. Thing to do is spend a week or more over there exploring the phenomenal roads for fat-tired road bikes. The Salbertrand double-track to Colle Blegier is one outstanding example, a definite have-to. But only on Wednesday or Saturday, the two days when the Strada dell’Assietta is closed to cars.
Plateau d’Emparis from Mizoën, sublime, simple as that. Smooth dirt road, grand views, vast rolling expanse of alpine meadows up top, single-tracks then a dirt road then a paved road down to La Grave, back to the start point in a deep gorge squeezed in between cliffs and glaciers. Might just be the best of the best.
Col du Fréjus and Bellecombe, both of them adventure rides, the former more so than the latter. Both in charismatic alpine basins surrounded by high peaks. Both up and backs but with options for a bit more for those willing to stretch their limits.
Okay, that’s probably enough dreaming. Not nearly enough time to discover all that’s out there. Especially over on the Piemonte side of the Alps. I need to drop 20 years from my age to do the region justice. Oh well.
Col du Fréjus, 2545 meters (8350 ft), above the upper Maurienne valley. A sublime ride, but hard! The first 3 K is just a road to a ski area, moderate grades, nothing of particular interest. Then the dirt, 9K and 900 vertical meters to the col, average grade 10%. The first 3 K maybe 7-8%, the last 6 K well over 10%. Brutal is the word that leaps to mind. But what a gorgeous place. The last 6 K in alpine basins of flowers, grasses, and stones. One of France’s highest and most beautiful cols, a broad saddle well above timberline. Also the border between France and Italy. Beyond the col is air and more mountains in the distance. Far below the ski town of Bardonecchia. A wonderful ride even if all you do is turn around and ride back down. But there is an enticing option, which I haven’t done yet. A hiking trail drops down through a small cliff then zigs down a steep scree field. Somewhere far below it joins a dirt road. If you’re willing to hike-a-bike, the col isn’t the end. Hopefully this summer, I’ll shoulder the bike, scramble down the trail until I can finally ride again, either on a trail or on a road, rip down into Bardonecchia where my wife will have driven around to the hotel we’ve booked for the night. A glorious adventure for a fat-tired road bike, from Modena over the Col du Fréjus and down into Bardonecchia.
Bellecombe, another glorious and relatively unknown ride out of the upper Maurienne valley, an up and back. Fabulous climb with arresting views on a road that doesn’t go anywhere, just up a mountain. Kicks off in Termignon. A fat one-laner-and-a-half or a tight two-laner. Mostly steep, but the views keep the mind off that. Ends at a large parking area above timberline. From there on the road’s for bikes, hikers, and farmers who have the right to drive on it. Crosses an unnamed col, past a lake, past an auberge where you can eat and drink, down into a valley deep in the Vanoise National Park where the road turns to dirt. Smooth dirt. Rambles up a valley closed in by glacier-clad peaks and rock summits. About as close to wilderness as you’re likely to find in the french Alpes. Ends at an old stone building and from there on it’s single-track that just might be ridable, possibly all the way to Col de la Rocheure at around 2900 meters (9500 ft). A bit crazy calling this a have-to-ride given that it’s for all practical purposes anonymous in the world of cycling but if you’re in the area, do it. A wild mouse ride descent back to Termignon, slams the fun needle right up in the red zone all the way.
A quick summation, in two sections. First rides without dirt, second rides with dirt. The order is not by some rating system, just what pops up in my head. Criteria are scenery, narrow road, twistiness, fun descent. Note these are simply pure rides, either up and backs or loops, not a guide to extended tours.
Without dirt :
Col de l’Iseran, 2770 meters, south side, the road from Lanslebourg. France’s second highest col. I’ve not done Iseran’s north side, the Val d’Isère ski station side. I rarely find ski area roads interesting. From Lanslebourg, wonderful ride, big views, glaciers and high summits, screamer of a descent back down to the Bonneval-sur-Arc, considered one of France’s most beautiful medieval villages. Best to avoid on weekends, too many motorcycles out, all in a rush.
Col du Galibier, south side, either from la Grave or from Monêtier-les-Bains. Both approaches superb except that the road from la Grave goes through a long and disagreeable tunnel just outside the village. A toss-up between the two but I adore the ride from Monêtier. From Lautaret to Galibier is one of my favourite sections of road anywhere in the Alps. A captivating climb and a wildly exhilarating descent. I’m not fond of the climb up the north side of Galibier. The long haul up the valley out of Valloir just seems like a grind. Views high on the north side are superb but it’s still not a climb I dream about. The south side is. A brilliant ride. Best done during the week, not on a weekend.
Col de l’Arpettaz, I love this col. Not well known, even in France. Not high enough for fame at 1581 meters plus it doesn’t go anywhere, just up a beautiful mountain with mind warping views. The north side approach is harder with 43 switchbacks, but south approach is a joy too. If only to be done once in a lifetime, north side up is the call. Skinny road, much of the distance in a magical forest then alpine meadows, excellent views off the col, screaming fun descent no matter which direction you take.
Signal de Bisanne, another little known climb, or was until last year when the TdF touched it, but not the summit. Big puppy, 1930 meters high, around 7 different ways to get to it, and they all end up on the final ramp to the summit, 2 K plus at over 10%. The longest and most interesting way is from Ugine up a small road to Crest-Voland. Steep, narrow road angling up a precipitous hillside of huge trees. The road to Bisanne leaves the road to Crest-Voland maybe a quarter of the way up. Paved but rustic one-laner, not so steep, curls around the mountain, arrives at Bisanne 1500, a small ski station linked to les Saisies. The summit 4 K away, 10% average, 360 degrees views with the mass of Mont Blanc dominating. The descent is killer, down to Col des Saisies, then a small road to Crest-Voland, followed by the road to Ugine, the one the climb kicked off with. An absolute have-to ride yet for whatever reason it’s rarely done.
Col du Joly, from Beaufort, an up and back, a long, delightful ride up a high, wide alpine valley then a sustained, relatively hard 4 K climb to the majestic finale, the col with Mont Blanc dominating the background. Another somewhat unknown col. Little or no traffic. Eighth highest col in Savoie at 1989 meters. Views of Mont Blanc from the col are as good as any you’ll ever achieve on a road bike. A blast of a descent, twisting and diving across the slopes, one-laner road surface hopping around, massive fun. Almost too much fun. Been a few years since I’ve done it and I’m sitting here going man, I really, really need to do that puppy again! I mean it’s only of the best of the best of the best!
Col du Noyer, 1664 meters, crossed by the TdF four times, always from west to east, Saint Disdier to Col de Manse and on to Gap. Noyer makes a brilliant loop, one of the best in the Alps, on small, lightly trafficked roads. Which direction makes little difference. I’ve done it twice clockwise and once partially counterclockwise (stopped by snow closing the col). The east side is the harder climb with the last 2,5 K averaging around 10%. The east side is a delight for the views. Around 60 K for the loop. Like Joly, writing about Noyer makes me think I really, really need to go do that again this year. Been too long and it’s way too good to ignore anymore.
Col du Sabot, Col du Solude both Bourg d’Oisans rides, distinctive characters each with one shared trait, steepness. Sabot at 2100 meters is the only col in the Isère department higher than 2000 meters. An odd road, goes nowhere, onto a ridge where it ends. Nothing there, just the start of a hiking trail, and big views. And the thing is paved! Rustic asphalt but well patched and maintained. Frequently blessed with a varnish of cow bombs and piss. A climb of light and space and sweeping meadows and no one’s there. Never seen another cyclist on it. And as usual, friggin steep. Beautiful but you’re going to have to work to enjoy it.
Col du Solude, 1680 meters, an insane road carved out of vertical rock cliffs with 3 tunnels blasted through the rock. A pure one-laner with occasional wide spots where cars manoeuvre past one another. Not a place for acrophobia. Steep, verging on rudeness in places. But so spectacular that you might not notice your legs being wasted. Tunnel aren’t far off totally black. Without a light sketchy at best. Solude is one of those rides you’ll never forget. This is on the list of rides without dirt even though the last few K to the col are dirt, but such easy dirt you’ll barely even notice. Stunning views down into Bourg d’Oisans and across at the climb to Alpe d’Huez. Intense gravity plunge down the back side with crazy fun carving turns.
Col du Petit Saint Bernard, 2180 meters, on the french/italian border, probably the easiest 2000 plus meter col in France. Road’s a full two-laner and to be avoided on weekends. It’s a have-to because of the views, a constant mountain panorama, especially on the italian side of the col when Mont Blanc becomes visible. Cross the col, drop down into the ski town of La Thuile, have lunch, ride back. A wonderful ride with the italian side serving up a bit more interest in the riding department. The descent on the french side down to Bourg St Maurice a speed run but not eyeball warping.
With dirt :
The Grand Traverse ( what I call it ), Col de l’Arpettaz to Col des Aravis, a ride that for me perfectly defines why I love riding a fat-tired road bike. Stunning climb to Arpettaz followed by 15 K of contouring, climbing, descending dirt and rock road across alpine meadows surrounded by mountain views verging on surreal. Which direction doesn’t matter, they’re both excellent. South to north, Arpettaz to Aravis, is harder.
The High Traverse ( what I call it ) between Col de Chaussy and Col de la Madeleine, direction Chaussy to Madeleine. Another ride defining the joys of riding a fat-tired road bike. Can be done by riding up the Lacets de Montvernier, over Chaussy then down to the junction with the road to Lac du Loup ( Wolf Lake ) or from La Chambre up the road to Madeleine then the road to Montaimont to the junction with the road to Lac du Loup. They’re both good but less vertical with the second option. The road to Lac du Loup is a delight, rustic pavement for 3 K plus then dirt, relatively smooth much of the distance but with some steep, short, technically challenging spots. Fantastic views.
Oulx, Italy to Salbertrand, up through the Forest of Salbertrand on the dirt double-track to Colle Blegier then Strada dell’Assietta to Colle Basset and down to Oulx. Guaranteed to blow all preconceived ideas of what fat-tired road bikes are all about. Fantastic ride but that’s what riding around Oulx and Bardonecchia is pretty much all about. Thing to do is spend a week or more over there exploring the phenomenal roads for fat-tired road bikes. The Salbertrand double-track to Colle Blegier is one outstanding example, a definite have-to. But only on Wednesday or Saturday, the two days when the Strada dell’Assietta is closed to cars.
Plateau d’Emparis from Mizoën, sublime, simple as that. Smooth dirt road, grand views, vast rolling expanse of alpine meadows up top, single-tracks then a dirt road then a paved road down to La Grave, back to the start point in a deep gorge squeezed in between cliffs and glaciers. Might just be the best of the best.
Col du Fréjus and Bellecombe, both of them adventure rides, the former more so than the latter. Both in charismatic alpine basins surrounded by high peaks. Both up and backs but with options for a bit more for those willing to stretch their limits.
Okay, that’s probably enough dreaming. Not nearly enough time to discover all that’s out there. Especially over on the Piemonte side of the Alps. I need to drop 20 years from my age to do the region justice. Oh well.