Important Cycling Question...

[bostondrunk]

I'm trying to replace an old wall mounted sink. Got the new sink, but the drain pipe coming horizontally out of the wall is too long to connect to the catch pipe ad still allow the sink to touch the wall. Steel pipes. How the heck do I cut this, and then what the heck do I do to reconnect??? See, not only am I not a financial expert, but I know very little about plumbing....... :beer:

PS. Serotta rules

[Too Tall]

That is a "stub". In theory you can wind it out. Just use a roller cutter (chain with cutters) and than you can use a rubber gasket to make a transition to plastic.

Yup, a college edukatshun iz a thaing of beuteee

[Ginger]

I'd use a sawzall, but only do that if you have enough room to cut the pipe straight; then do the rubber thing and transition to plastic just like TT said. The rollercutter is the right tool for the job, sawzall is just my power tool of choice.

[sspielman]

After you cut it off and go to the local Home Labyrinth, you will find that you have some bastard diameter of pipe....and nothing there fits it. This is because ALL plumbing fittings are bastard sizes. The plumbers get together every so many years to devise new standards. The purpose is not to standardize anything, but to ensure that the old ones are obsolete.

[Birddog]

Ginger is right, use a Sawzall or more properly called a reciprocating saw. First things first though, what is the pipe made of? Is it Iron, lead, or copper? If there are threads on the end, you have a steel pipe. If the pipe is kinda rough, it's likely cast iron (doubtful), and if it's fairly smooth, thin walled and no threads, it's probably copper. You will need a metal cutting blade in any case. You said steel, so I will assume it's galvanized steel. First attach the tailpiece to your drain, don't worry about the length just yet. Now go have a drink. With the tailpiece attached, grab your "P" trap and hold it alongside your tailpiece to get an idea as to where to cut the pipe that comes through your wall. I'd definitely use PVC or ABS plastic pipe for the tailpiece and P trap, and then attach with the rubber connector (locally called Fernco's after one of the mfgers) The rubber connector attaches to each end with a hose clamp. Have another drink. I'd also recommend that you use a "P trap with union" as opposed to the glue up type, they are more user friendly. You will also need a "trap adaptor", that's the piece that attaches to your tailpiece and P trap, usually with a short piece of pipe in between. Have another drink. While you're having the drinks, you might ponder why so many plumbing terms are sorta "dirty sounding", like ballcocks, tailpieces, P traps, flappers, sill cocks, nipples, etc.

One more thing, before you start any of this, make sure you're wearing a shirt that is at least one size too small so that when you bend over the crack in yer *** is exposed. It won't make the job go any smoother, but it sure will make you look more professional. Now go have another drink.

Birddog

[ada@prorider.or]

pijpen snijders en buizentrekkers

[Too Tall]

We have consensus than?

Pictures of you insitu required pal. Smile pretty.

[Kevan]

Aisle 4 sir.

Got that sinking feeling? (http://www.texastoolbox.com/kitchen-sink.html)

[goonster]

http://www.fileitunder.com/uploaded_images/crack-782980.jpg

Since this is a cycling question . . .

Bibshorts are your friend.

[stevep]

im an advocate of acall a plumber and spend $100 and save $1,000 of headaches

[mike p]

I'm trying to replace an old wall mounted sink. Got the new sink, but the drain pipe coming horizontally out of the wall is too long to connect to the catch pipe ad still allow the sink to touch the wall. Steel pipes. How the heck do I cut this, and then what the heck do I do to reconnect??? See, not only am I not a financial expert, but I know very little about plumbing....... :beer:

PS. Serotta rules


If the horizontal pipe comming out of the wall is steel it most likely t's into a vertical pipe just inside the wall. Put a pipe wrench on it and unthread. Then buy or make what ever size nipple you need. On the end of the nipple use a marvel adapter and run your chrome p trap into it.

Mike

[Ginger]

If the horizontal pipe comming out of the wall is steel it most likely t's into a vertical pipe just inside the wall. Put a pipe wrench on it and unthread. Then buy or make what ever size nipple you need. On the end of the nipple use a marvel adapter and run your chrome p trap into it.

Mike

Yeah...I guess we didn't ask how old the house was...

In my house, Sawzall is the way to go (I *do* have a Milwaukee...it is a sawzall...) The pipes here are so welded together with age that you (professional plumbers included) break them when you try to wrench them. So, I either cut and convert, or leave it.

[mike p]

Yeah...I guess we didn't ask how old the house was...

In my house, Sawzall is the way to go (I *do* have a Milwaukee...it is a sawzall...) The pipes here are so welded together with age that you (professional plumbers included) break them when you try to wrench them. So, I either cut and convert, or leave it.


Ginger,

Your correct in many old houses the pipes might not come apart or will break when you put pressure on them. But if you just cut off a steel pipe you need to put threads on the end of it or use a fernco adapter to be able to attach something to it. Sometimes you need to bite the bullet and tear into the wall to do the job properly.


Mike

[BoulderGeek]

OK, someone said transition to plastic pipes.

I installed plastic pipes under my kitchen sink about 6 years ago, and they are leaking really badly now.

I just bought all new pipe sections, trap, riser, etc in metal. I have plumbers tape. Is that all I need to maintain a watertight seal?

Is there anything you need to do to those little clear delryn crush washers to make them hold better?

I don't really want ot have a plumber come out t do something i can or should be able to do. But, I am a weenie when it comes to plumbing. i should go work on my bikes instead.

[Bud_E]

im an advocate of acall a plumber and spend $100 and save $1,000 of headaches

Plumbing is a whole 'nother ballgame. I once tried to replace my kitchen faucet. It's in a really tight, awkward location and I had to get one of those faucet wrenches with an extender to reach it. I was on my back for 45 minutes sweating bullets trying to loosen the old faucet when the wrench slipped out of my hand and chipped my front tooth - close to $1000 worth of dental work. (A contractor friend of mine came over and did the whole thing in 20 minutes with no problem - I guess there are people who are handy and then there are the rest of us. )

[mike p]

OK, someone said transition to plastic pipes.

I installed plastic pipes under my kitchen sink about 6 years ago, and they are leaking really badly now.

I just bought all new pipe sections, trap, riser, etc in metal. I have plumbers tape. Is that all I need to maintain a watertight seal?

Is there anything you need to do to those little clear delryn crush washers to make them hold better?

I don't really want ot have a plumber come out t do something i can or should be able to do. But, I am a weenie when it comes to plumbing. i should go work on my bikes instead.


Tape threads on steel pipe only, the "crush" washers just tighten down, if they leak tighten more.

Mike

[mike p]

Plumbing is a whole 'nother ballgame. I once tried to replace my kitchen faucet. It's in a really tight, awkward location and I had to get one of those faucet wrenches with an extender to reach it. I was on my back for 45 minutes sweating bullets trying to loosen the old faucet when the wrench slipped out of my hand and chipped my front tooth - close to $1000 worth of dental work. (A contractor friend of mine came over and did the whole thing in 20 minutes with no problem - I guess there are people who are handy and then there are the rest of us. )

Plumbings like anything else once you've done it a few times and have proper tools it's no big deal. But your not going to get many plumbers to your house for a hundred bucks.

Mike

[bostondrunk]

But your not going to get many plumbers to your house for a hundred bucks.

Mike


I was quoted $225 today.... :crap:

[Birddog]

OK, I'm not a plumber, but I remodel kitchens for a living and I've installed and uninstalled hundreds of sinks in all sorts of conditions and of all ages. My advice is based on my experience over the last 20 years and I'm always on the lookout for a better way to do it.

Personally, I would NEVER use the chrome P-trap assembly. If you've ever taken one out, you'd know why. They corrode and rust out. I've yet to see a plastic pipe do that. Properly installed, they are PFM. If you have a galvanized pipe, then yes, you can put a wrench on it and see if it breaks loose. I would be very careful though, because unless you have X-ray vision, you don't know what's happening behind the wall, or what kind of pipe configuration it goes into. I've had more than one disintegrate while wrenching. Sometimes that's a good thing, because it forces you to upgrade and make it right. Other times it opens up a money pit. A $5 Fernco (flexible connector) goes a long way in ease of use and peace of mind.

When I re-plumb in plastic, I prefer to use schedule 40, the smaller gauge stuff is OK, but make sure you connect it correctly or it will leak like Boulder's has. Boulder, is it hooked up to a disposer? Sometimes the vibrations over time tend to loosen the connections. Make sure they are good and tight and that the compression ring is on right side up. You should NEVER need teflon tape on any compression fitting, supply or waste. Now since I said that, I have had to use it on rare occasions on P-traps and trap adapters that just wouldn't seal. I blame poor quality mfging for that, and it's a last ditch remedy. The one place I DO use teflon tape is where the tailpiece (the first pipe out of the bottom of your drain) attaches to the strainer assembly. Those threads are frequently of poor quality and need a little help. Of course you use it on any metalic threaded piece that is not of a compression type.

Several years ago, I was chatting with a local plumbing supply guy that owned an upscale showroom. He said he was frequently asked by his customers that had just purchased a high end sink if he could recommend a good plumber to install it. He said, "I always laugh, and tell them NEVER HIRE A PLUMBER TO INSTALL A SINK!" After the initial shock, he tells them "find a good finish carpenter that has installed some sinks, they'll do a better job and they will be much neater about it" You know what? he was right. Some of the sorriest plumbing and exhibits of poor quality shortcuts that I've seen have been done by licensed plumbers. Not all are bad mind you, I recently worked alongside one that was beyond compare, but they are hard as hell to find. This rare good plumber told me it was impossible to find any help that was worth a siht. My sentiments exactly. BD, it's time for another drink.

Birddog

[Ginger]

one of those faucet wrenches with an extender to reach it.
Those were invented to prove to the rest of us that we are not plumbers...evil. Pure evil.


The kids across the street grew up to be plumbers, they both do beautiful work. So I have them do the work I'd rather not.

[mike p]

Those were invented to prove to the rest of us that we are not plumbers...evil. Pure evil.


The kids across the street grew up to be plumbers, they both do beautiful work. So I have them do the work I'd rather not.


Basin wrench

Mike

[shoe]

man i like the way ginger is talking. nothing like a woman and her sawzall....you can come stay at my house anytime we will just bust out some tools and get crazy wid it...my mom once took a wood working class. she was telling me how hard it was to drive in this screw and the teacher came over and told her she had it on reverse...still love that woman though. ginger maybe you could come down after the ramble and school my mom on power tools. she was telling me one time how she wanted a sawzall for xmas...but didn't really know what one was ... so i got her a jig saw instead....baby steps...dave

[Bud_E]

Basin wrench

Mike

That's the name of that evil tool.

[BoulderGeek]

Thanks for that helpful post, Birddog.

I have plastic 1.5" OD in there now, but the trap is leaking badly. Yes, it is on a powerful disposal.

How to make sure the compression washers seal? With PVC pipe for hot tubs, you use the blue plastic weld compoud. Can I do that sort of thing?

I was hoping that dumping the plastic tubing for the consumer grade chrome stuff would be an improvement. :confused: :crap:

NB: Woo hoo! Even with the copper/chrome tubing, I got a much better build than last time with the plastic. No leaks, and structurally stiff.

Thanks for letting this totally OT thread happen here!

[Birddog]

Well Boulder, glad you got it fixed. You mentioned that you previously had 1.5 inch OD, that means you probably bought the cheesy stuff in kit form. Some of that crap is just crap, and some is OK, I personally stay away from it if at all possible. I use the schedule 40, 1.5 inch ID (yours prolly was 1.5 ID too) as opposed to that thin walled stuff. I've had problems similar to yours with the thin wall in the past. No, you don't solvent weld compression fittings. If your disposal is truly a Jimmy Hoffa eatin' beast, then periodically check your joints, they can loosen over time.

Lastly, all you good people, clean out all the sheite that you have stored under your sink. I know it is jammed full of all kinds of hazardous chemicals, solvents, scrubbers, gloves and other junk. With all that crap under there, how the hell can you ever tell if you DO have a leak or other problem until it's way past serious? BD, have another drink.

Birddog