Campagnolo italian square taper BB removal

[weisan]

Managed to get the non-drive side cup off, removed the spinder, only left drive-side cup, reverse-thread so figure loosen by going clockwise....1/2 hour later, barely moved. Taped up the chainstay for protection.

[jtakeda]

Italian is normal threads both side

Turn counter clockwise

[Black Dog]

If you have a vise it will be your easiest and safest bet to remove the cup.

[weisan]

Wat??!!:crap:

Thank you!

Will try again later.

Blowing bubbles (steam, in my case) with my three year old... M

[Ralph]

Italian drive side cup NOT reverse threaded.

[Ed-B]

Reminds me of the time I tried to get the drive side cup of the Stronglight bottom bracket out of a blue Puegeot PX-10....


....Turns out that it was English threaded. :confused:

[cmbicycles]

Aside from lefty loosey, on well stuck fixed cups, you can find a lbs with a fixed cup removal tool, or you can diy it. Start with a large bolt through the non drive side, making sure it doesn't contact the bearing races, then use a smooth flanged nut on the outside, put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt head inside the shell and holding the nut with a wrench tighten the bolt. It should give enough purchase to back out the drive side cup... If it has any rubber seals, take them out first.

[Tandem Rider]

The thread size is on the fixed cup. Italian will be 36x24 meaning lefty loosey. English will be 1.370x24 meaning righty loosey.

If it's been in for a while or was put in with a bonafide fixed cup tool it will take a lot of force. If you weren't living in the tropics I would show you how it all works. :D :banana:

[unterhausen]

reminds me of the time my LBS was trying to remove a French bb fixed cup and it wouldn't budge. I asked if they didn't use Swiss threads in the era the bike was from. Turns out they did.

[Tandem Rider]

Haha, been there, righty loosey on 35x1. :crap:

[bobdenver1961]

This is from Sheldon Brown:

Fixed-Cup Tools

Very elaborate, expensive, and special tools are sold to bicycle shops for fixed-cup removal and installation, but they are not really necessary. A few cheap home remedies can do the job quite well.

The first home remedy demands that you have a high-quality bench vise. Simply grab the fixed-cup wrench flats in the vise jaws, making sure that you have good contact with all of the wrench flats' meager width. Grasp the bike frame and unscrew it from the cup. This technique works quite well.

If you don't have a bench vise, or if the vise technique happens to not work well on your bike, you can make a universal fixed cup tool for less than a dollar (assuming you have access to a couple of large wrenches).

The tool is an imitation of a $40 shop tool that fits into the fixed cup as a crank spindle would, and pinches the cup. You apply unscrewing force to the tool, and it transfers this force to the cup with this tight friction fit.

The tool consists of a large bolt, a nut or two, and a few washers. The size of the bolt is not particularly critical, as long as the bolt is strong enough not to break, but small enough to fit through the hole in the cup. I used to use an ordinary 1/2-inch, 13 TPI hex bolt (also called a "cap screw"), which served me well for quite a while. It finally met its match on friend's Schwinn that had an unusually tight fixed cup; the bolt snapped in two before I could remove the cup.

Now I use a 5/8-inch 18 TPI hex bolt 1 1/2inches long, with a nut, a flat washer, and four lockwashers. The 5/8-inch size is the largest standard size that will fit through the hole in the cup. This bolt and nut both take a 15/16-inch wrench. With my 1/2 inch drive Craftsman six-point socket set, the 15/16-inch socket is also the largest size that will fit into a normal bottom bracket shell.

If you have some other brand of socket, check the fit before you buy the bolt and nut-you might need the next size down (9/16-inch).

Bolt as bottom-bracket cup tool

[ultraman6970]

If he was turning backwards and moved tiny bit, it means to me that the cup is not frozen at all. He needs to turn that thing as everybody is saying.

In other words stand in front of the frame, imagine that the cranks are there and are pedaling forward, that means the bearings are going backwards (in reverse), to remove that cup just turn the cup in the same direction than the balls bearings do.

[oldpotatoe]

Managed to get the non-drive side cup off, removed the spinder, only left drive-side cup, reverse-thread so figure loosen by going clockwise....1/2 hour later, barely moved. Taped up the chainstay for protection.

Italian, both lefty loosey, loosen counter clockwise or left.

[oldpotatoe]

Haha, been there, righty loosey on 35x1. :crap:

Swiss like English(RH cup, righty loosey), French like Italian)RH cup lefty loosey. Both 35by1..

[carpediemracing]

Put cup in vise, turn frame. Doing this gives so much leverage that you can almost (but not quite) just turn it both directions and just keep turning it in the direction it turns.

Also, if the other side is out, you can drip lube into the cup-frame junction.

[weisan]

Thank you very much for all the advice and information, pals.

I hope this will help someone else in the future.

I haven't gone back to it yet but will do that tonight.

cm and bobdenver1961 pal, I am always intrigued by homemade tool. It's definitely easier with the vise but I am thinking of dropping by Lowe's on my way back from work today to get the necessary parts.

I am a visual learner. It would be great if I can see a picture or a video of this homemade tool and how it's being used.

[inSHimanoITrust]

A member since 2003, collector of many awesome bikes and still don't know how to remove a b&b shell? I do t buy it there is more to this than meets the eye.

[weisan]

A member since 2003, collector of many awesome bikes and still don't know how to remove a b&b shell? I do t buy it there is more to this than meets the eye.

Here's why: I am a one-trick pony as in: In Shimano I Trust

and

http://alicehui.com/bike/CorsaExtra/c.jpg

So lacking practice in dealing with Italian thread BB and it's been a while since I had to deal with square taper.

But the truth is...there is still a whole bunch of stuff that I don't know...still learning....everyday.

[oldpotatoe]

A member since 2003, collector of many awesome bikes and still don't know how to remove a b&b shell? I do t buy it there is more to this than meets the eye.

??:confused:

For right above, plenty of shimano BBs in the 'far superior Italian threading'..:rolleyes::eek::)

[Lewis Moon]

Wat??!!:crap:

Thank you!

Will try again later.

Blowing bubbles (steam, in my case) with my three year old... M

It's been 27 years since i've owned a frame with an Italian BB. Made the same mistake a couple of days ago. Luckily I've had enough issues with BBs that I'm VERY ginger with the threads and stop and assess at the slightest problem.
I have no idea why english BBs are reverse threaded other than to prevent you from sticking them in backwards. I've been told that it's to keep them from loosening...which is complete hogwash. Properly faced, chased, installed and torqued you should never have a problem.

[cadence90]

A member since 2003, collector of many awesome bikes and still don't know how to remove a b&b shell? I do t buy it there is more to this than meets the eye.
I think it was The Clash who sang "Wrong 'Em Boyo".

Here's why: I am a one-trick pony as in: In Shimano I Trust .
One-trick ponies are fine.
Totally, completely, absolutely, 100% fine.
Well-built, loyal, strong, beautiful, all the best assets, etc.
:beer:










Sadly, you simply chose the wrong pony, once again. :(
(In fact, honestly, it looks more like a warped zebra or a lame emu or a hunchback giraffe to me...and you're in Texas, where pure ponies preside....:confused:)

??:confused:
I'll second that emo:confused:tion.

[weisan]

I do all the wrenching myself and know my own limitations as a wrench (read: not a very good mechanic). For any new frames or bikes that I get, I always try to leave the original BB or headset intact, hate messin' with them. So it's true that I had to deal with an Italian BB before but that's quite some time ago, I don't remember much anymore....in fact, I am at the crossroad of my life where I tend to forget more than I remember. :eek:

No worries, it's all good.

When folks come at me with something like this, I just freely admit my incompetency or shortcoming, that tend to satisfy them, and they just move on....nothing to see here. :D

[inSHimanoITrust]

http://alicehui.com/bike/CorsaExtra/c.jpg

But the truth is...there is still a whole bunch of stuff that I don't know...still learning....everyday.

Wait, I think we are on the same team here. I digress b&b shells can indeed be a pain in the bum bum. Just be glad it didn't come undun while you were pedaling. Shimano4life! :beer:

I think it was The Clash who sang "Wrong 'Em Boyo".


One-trick ponies are fine.
Totally, completely, absolutely, 100% fine.
Well-built, loyal, strong, beautiful, all the best assets, etc.
:beer:

Sadly, you simply chose the wrong pony, once again. :(
(In fact, honestly, it looks more like a warped zebra or a lame emu or a hunchback giraffe to me...and you're in Texas, where pure ponies preside....:confused:)


I'll second that emo:confused:tion.

And I thought Randy Newman sang with marbles in his mouth. My pony is a Treks with Shimano or Sram on them. That's what makes me a winner!;)

[ultraman6970]

True... !!!!!!

??:confused:

For right above, plenty of shimano BBs in the 'far superior Italian threading'..:rolleyes::eek::)

[bobdenver1961]

Here is the picture from Sheldon Brown.

[bobdenver1961]

Also if you do a google search on:

fixed cup bottom bracket

there are various pictures and video's.

[weisan]

Thank you Bob pal!

[weisan]

http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/HowToDoIt/PeugeotRebuild/PeugReb_Pre_BBTools11_Comment1.jpg

http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/HowToDoIt/PeugeotRebuild/PeugReb_Pre_BBTools5_Comment1.jpg

https://www.genkin.name/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/IMG_20160317_232735-825x510.jpg

http://sheldonbrown.com/var/images/var0016.jpg

[drewellison]

This is from Sheldon Brown:

Fixed-Cup Tools

Very elaborate, expensive, and special tools are sold to bicycle shops for fixed-cup removal and installation, but they are not really necessary. A few cheap home remedies can do the job quite well.

The first home remedy demands that you have a high-quality bench vise. Simply grab the fixed-cup wrench flats in the vise jaws, making sure that you have good contact with all of the wrench flats' meager width. Grasp the bike frame and unscrew it from the cup. This technique works quite well.

If you don't have a bench vise, or if the vise technique happens to not work well on your bike, you can make a universal fixed cup tool for less than a dollar (assuming you have access to a couple of large wrenches).

The tool is an imitation of a $40 shop tool that fits into the fixed cup as a crank spindle would, and pinches the cup. You apply unscrewing force to the tool, and it transfers this force to the cup with this tight friction fit.

The tool consists of a large bolt, a nut or two, and a few washers. The size of the bolt is not particularly critical, as long as the bolt is strong enough not to break, but small enough to fit through the hole in the cup. I used to use an ordinary 1/2-inch, 13 TPI hex bolt (also called a "cap screw"), which served me well for quite a while. It finally met its match on friend's Schwinn that had an unusually tight fixed cup; the bolt snapped in two before I could remove the cup.

Now I use a 5/8-inch 18 TPI hex bolt 1 1/2inches long, with a nut, a flat washer, and four lockwashers. The 5/8-inch size is the largest standard size that will fit through the hole in the cup. This bolt and nut both take a 15/16-inch wrench. With my 1/2 inch drive Craftsman six-point socket set, the 15/16-inch socket is also the largest size that will fit into a normal bottom bracket shell.

If you have some other brand of socket, check the fit before you buy the bolt and nut-you might need the next size down (9/16-inch).

Bolt as bottom-bracket cup tool

I used this method once, on a frame where the seat tube and/or down tube went too far into the bottom bracket and my Var tool would not slide in all the way in the bb (which it needs to do). This method really works.

I bought all the parts down at the LHS - local hardware store - for just a few bucks.

[icepick_trotsky]

Hey, they call it a fixed cup for a reason.

[Tony Edwards]

I have loved the Italian bikes I've owned, but it's hard for me not to see Italian threading as inferior from an engineering standpoint. It's certainly not a big deal if Loctite is used, but I have had a Campy square-taper cartridge BB walk out on me on a ride and I am still emotionally scarred . . .